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Missouri by Semorebutts - Trumpeter - 1/200 - Pontos detail up & advanced add on

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after seeing what a tremendous job you did on the Bismark,  I'm definitely following along!  you sure have your work cut out for you ;)    I have the New Jersey,  an already started kit that Lou thought I'd be interested in.  the fellow building it died......Lou got it from his brother.  the paint work that he did is very good.......I won't be changing it.   that's quite a bit of aftermarket stuff..........scares the dickens out of me,  that there's so much out there!

 

looks like a fantastic journey......gonna be a fun project to be sure!  ;) 

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4 hours ago, paulsutcliffe said:

Mighty Mo did a great job against the aliens

I had forgotten about that battle. I always thought it was convenient that they keep a museum ship fueled with a few live 16" rounds laying around like a floating minuteman. Oh well it was still fun to watch.

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4 hours ago, semorebutts said:

though I have no idea how yet...any thoughts?

The least expensive option is the Christmas or Fairy lights that are available all over the place.

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/YIHONG-2-Set-String-Lights-8-Modes-50LED-Fairy-Lights-Battery-Operated-16-4FT/264238952018?epid=20027810493&hash=item3d85de6e52:g:EEsAAOSwoG1cimdq

 

They come in a number of colors, some are remote controlled, and some also have an AC converter if you don't want to rely on batteries, and they fit almost anywhere.

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Posted (edited)

Fantastic, I'm really looking forward to this. 

 

15 hours ago, lmagna said:

One can not help but remember though that the Missouri was hit in the side by a Kamikaze and it barley scratched the paint! (No really, they say that she still carries the dent).

 

Yup, you can see the dent here, just forward of the aft turret.

 

5vnzZCy.jpg

 

Here is a view from the deck showing the dent in the rail.

2482489998_a29084a483.jpg

Edited by JohnEnglish

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22 minutes ago, semorebutts said:

I imagine a wArm white color would best simulate 1940s bulbs. 

I think you will find the warm white is best anyway. Almost all lights look yellow when viewed from a distance and the warm white mimic that color. The short battery operated lights with 10 or 20 lights only cost a couple of dollars or so. They all seem to come from China though so you may have to wait for a couple of weeks. 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=fairy+lights+battery+operated&_sacat=0&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1

 

Having said that, you may want to buy a set or two of the battery operated white strings. I bought a couple of strings of 20 light warm and white to use as test light on the 1/350 Titanic I am working on for my wife. I discovered that in the case of the over 800 portholes of two sizes in the hull it will take more light to get it out than I anticipated. I think I will need to do a little reaming on the inside and then either paint the inside white or even possibly silver. 

 

For Nav lights I thought I might be able to paint or in some way color the bulb with red or blue to make green and hopefully a reasonable red color. an alternative would be to replace individual lights in the string by soldering replacement colors where needed. Red for the bridge interior would also be appropriate I think.  

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, JohnEnglish said:

Yup, you can see the dent here, just forward of the aft turret.

Wow John!

I knew of the hit and damage from books but I have never seen it pointed out. Your post made me look for more and instead I found this:

The Imprint of a Mitsubishi kamikaze Zero along the side of H.M.S Sussex. 1945.

image.png.5bfaf7f85e49e80953c6c69ec827a59d.png

 

Thanks.

Edited by lmagna

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9 minutes ago, lmagna said:

For Nav lights I thought I might be able to paint or in some way color the bulb with red or blue to make green and hopefully a reasonable red color. an alternative would be to replace individual lights in the string by soldering replacement colors where needed. Red for the bridge interior would also be appropriate I think.  

Tamiya sells the transparent colors you need...red, green, blue, orange, etc.

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13 minutes ago, CDW said:

Tamiya sells the transparent colors you need...red, green, blue, orange, etc.

Do you think the yellowish color of the LED would alter the color of the paint?

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17 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Do you think the yellowish color of the LED would alter the color of the paint?

Never tried it, so can't say for sure. With Christmas lights, the color of the glass seems to work just fine, so don't have reason to think it would be any different.

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Posted (edited)

I figured i would post an update while I wait for glue to dry. 

I glued the 2 hull pieces together. 

52893934-8451-436B-A2CF-C86345BF9F1D.thumb.jpeg.ac75cb1642bdbf2067496e6253148367.jpeg36020318-FAA8-4DE2-AEF7-337065CEF2D6.thumb.jpeg.d3be8ddd3e6be55ddd09a0636a9e41a1.jpeg

check out the stress line above the tape  B4587066-F6E7-41CB-91D9-B2FAEFC8617E.thumb.jpeg.70c1cb11fe008405b82782f2bb56df6d.jpeg

i dont know if i should drill out these holes

16D521AE-29C2-4445-B5DE-804CF9B7A5BF.thumb.jpeg.34eaff63d622ef1d569a2399d789ed0b.jpeg

or these above the portholes

04D6085D-0566-4893-BFDC-76A768C30068.thumb.jpeg.bb2119eaf6ebef675851f978e55df5d8.jpeg

or these in the back

0ABDCAAD-2A8C-4FAE-8BC5-3C3897BDAC70.thumb.jpeg.36d9cd931ac50cb2f0a07ec4122b5cab.jpeg

oh man there is alot of sanding in my future

7B5E360C-2A33-413D-B821-92C932D8692F.thumb.jpeg.478db6721aaa823fa0c8c69fe508bbac.jpeg

look at the size of her! the Bismarck could fit nicely into MO’s hull. 

BE705070-5531-4F30-A70D-E737EFE851E1.thumb.jpeg.e761af97657e8c2cb77ae3e55fc304ae.jpeg

Edited by semorebutts

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Have you seen Koppalakki’s build log for his Missouri? There might be some information there about what should get drilled where. Though, he’s going more for end of service life.

 

That said, the small holes at the stem probably should not be drilled- I believe those are locators for draft marks.

 

 

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For no real reason I decided to drill out thoses holes

02AFD5FC-2F37-4215-A98F-DC90684D3B8E.thumb.jpeg.b6569d11f6b15a22a307195688edfdda.jpeg5611DF04-7CF3-42BF-9B17-016E8B33626D.thumb.jpeg.444386996ce3a16a44f3cf15d5016c3e.jpeg

then it was time to take care of this joint. I used vallejo plastic putty. 

884EB69F-F059-4558-8B68-A935499333D1.thumb.jpeg.a7d59721fe0c7e7c9e884287fd081fbf.jpeg

i used progressively finer sand paper. 

98038C26-2179-4502-95DC-4A92DF778B05.thumb.jpeg.27eec617d4a5d30d9787e46bd2a296be.jpeg

When I shut my eyes and run my fingers across the joint  and cant feel it I’m done sanding. 

EEDAE3B4-E760-40DA-91E7-D0215A49738A.thumb.jpeg.42ddf292de11e6f4386812c0ce7f2c0b.jpeg

I wonder what those holes are for?

AA96CD58-36FD-4E42-A65B-E2E9D06704B6.thumb.jpeg.0757cd9037e614e8be61356740dde4bc.jpeg

I am currently working on the Eduard hull plates. The instructions are pretty straight forward. I wonder why they are rusty or red? 

716ABDF3-682B-4E15-B2EA-85045B43A7EA.thumb.jpeg.9f4e81aad77f8e0845e5f91d738186fd.jpeg

AC984230-F13B-4551-AFF8-634B5C459581.thumb.jpeg.ddc6aaddf018ee0964641a9feaab6995.jpeg

 there are 22 on each side of the hull. I marked a line every 35mm starting here

BF487859-B23E-4D7E-B042-BE87B4B4E9C3.thumb.jpeg.328263dd39fa5bec3cd8eef38c9b008c.jpeg2ACCFBED-8B5A-4770-A64B-DBCCAE68A819.thumb.jpeg.5518c53ae898574c0364d7c7d4d77e95.jpeg

and ending here

CD2B356A-F28E-4C49-944A-DA5D6F329B6A.thumb.jpeg.32252ee46e2cbcf46232ea928b77b7a2.jpeg

 

 

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8 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Now that was a good film  - far fetched but good.

 

OC.

You know, I thought the same thing. A battleship vs aliens was just fun! Especially where they powerslide the darn thing. 

Edited by Joe100

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No matter who makes PE, it’s all pretty poor. An amazing amount of research and zero tolerances and there is an expectation you are an engineer. Pretty much advanced users only. My latest instructions say look at the photos for guidance for pieces that are not mentioned in the instructions. 

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