Missouri by Semorebutts - Trumpeter - 1/200 - Pontos detail up & advanced add on

[RGL]

Just be careful with the salt; it does not come off so use it very sparingly. 

[semorebutts]

I might have a big problem on my hands. The finish on the hull feels just like 180 grit sand paper for some reason.  I hope the weathering and the dry transfer decals are not affected by this.   If so I can’t see myself sanding the entire hull around the hull plates and repainting. I really really hope this is fine. 

[cog]

Hope not. That wood really be a pain. I keep my fingers crossed for you

[CDW]

???

Is this condition a result of the AK products you used. What exactly did you apply to the hull to leave it so rough?

[semorebutts]

I think it was the badger stynorez primer stuff . I’ve never used it  before. Also a .5mm needle airbrush  instead of a .2mm

[semorebutts]

But then the ak paint and mission model paint did it to.  

[semorebutts]

Just the Tamiya waterline is smooth. 

[CDW]

If I'm using AK paints, I use Mr. Color leveling thinner 400 and it works fine. Never used Mission Models paints before. What reducer did you use? I don't know a thing about Badger Stynorez primer, never even heard of it before now.

 

[semorebutts]

I always use the brands thinner. Mission models paint  has a thinner and also a poly mix additive that’s supposed to help the paint dry slower. Even so I think the paint was drying before it hit the model.   I love Tamiya paint and never had this problem with them.  There color selection sucks for me though.  I currently have lifecolor, ak interactive, mission models, panzer aces, model air, velejo, and tamiya.  And I’m only comfortable with tamiya.....sucks I knew this was gonna be a problem before I started this ship. But I’m going to try the leveling thinner. How much do you put into the paint? 

[CDW]

1 minute ago, semorebutts said:

I always use the brands thinner. Mission models paint  has a thinner and also a poly mix additive that’s supposed to help the paint dry slower. Even so I think the paint was drying before it hit the model.   I love Tamiya paint and never had this problem with them.  There color selection sucks for me though. 

Generally, a rough finish as you described is a result of the paint drying too fast just as you said, or also can happen when holding the airbrush too far away from the surface being painted. 

I hate using new paints on a good model. Always test on a practice piece first. I've learned this lesson the hard way.

[semorebutts]

I want to try enamels or lacquers I hear it’s a better finish.  

[semorebutts]

Look how bad it is

[CDW]

You are going to be forced to sand this a little. I don't know any way around it.

Get some scrap styrene plastic and play around with your air pressure and paint viscosity to find the sweet spot. This definitely was drying from your airbrush before it hit the model. 

[semorebutts]

Ugh...ok but Before I sand it I want to just try to weather the hull just to see what happens at the very least it would be practice.  Does anyone know of any ship weathering tutorials? 

 

I had had a little time so I made up these things. I don’t know what they are called. 

Pretty straight forward. drill two .4mm holes using the guide. 

then two 1mm holes

then shove them in. No glue required the fit is so tight 

[popeye the sailor]

nice looking bollards......how many do you have to make?   your paint issue looks like over spray settling on fresh paint.   I usually wipe 'em down lightly with a soft cloth,  since there is another coat of paint to go over it {if there is another coat}.   really nice progress   

[lmagna]

Before you you go all out and start attacking the hull with sandpaper you may want to try plastic scratch remover.

 https://www.webstaurantstore.com/novus-7100-plastic-cleaner-polisher-and-scratch-remover-kit/448PN7100.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCsjxgwNlbpUucdGr_yhPtmvnBGQKfxhdVwPl7-XhQDgbnFjRU57Bh9xoCc-8QAvD_BwE

 

I had a Chevy Chaparral that had the same problem and looked like I was going to have to start all over again and I had decided to use #2 and 3 with a soft cloth first. It pretty much restored the smooth service of the paint without doing much, if anything, to the plastic, even though it went through to the plastic in some of the higher places. But it did not remove any detail at all. (Not that there is much "detail" on a 1964 Chevy Chaparral in the first place!)

 

Anyway it may be worth a try.  

[semorebutts]

Interesting...

 

[horrido]

Steel wool, and another coat.  The paint went on dry like the other gent mentioned.  I'm using Tamiya haze grey lacquer, decanted.

[mtaylor]

If what Lou suggests doesn't work, try some rubbing compound.   The fine the grade the better.  I've used that in the past and it leaves a very smooth finish.  Just don't over do it or you'll rub through the paint.

[CDW]

In the future, you might want to try Tamiya's bottled lacquer primer, reduced down with their lacquer thinner, through your airbrush. 

It's the same excellent primer found in their rattle cans, but it sells for less than $4 per bottle, so it's very economical. Besides that, it's just about the best primer I have found, period. It comes in either white or gray. Being it's a lacquer, it's safe under any type of paint you may decide to use on top of it as a top coat.

And what you said about Tamiya top coats being so very reliable, I agree 100%. Can't find a nicer acrylic to use than Tamiya IMHO. If you search the net, you can find the mix ratio's for just about any color you want to mix for Tamiya paints. But you're right, it would be a lot more convenient if they carried a broader range of pre mixed colors.

[yvesvidal]

Why not use the clay bar used for automotive detailing. You will have to use it wet, though....

 

Yves

[CDW]

20 hours ago, lmagna said:

Before you you go all out and start attacking the hull with sandpaper you may want to try plastic scratch remover.

In every modeler's (particularly plastic modelers) tool stash, you need a set of sandpaper similar to these:

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/waterproof-finishing-kit-ultra-fine/FLX00000110/product.php?s=4-3&t=2-2&u=2-2

You need to have an assortment of "grit" papers that far exceeds that of Home Improvement store variety. The finer grit paper, 600 and finer, are exceptionally well suited for polishing up a rough primer finish. On most of my models, primer coats are always polished with sandpaper, usually 1000 grit or finer, before applying color coats. It's just a standard practice. You can also use Tamiya sanding sponges which come in the similar fine grit, but the idea is not to attack, but polish.

[semorebutts]

Thank for the info guys!

[Javlin]

I have had this come up when laying a gloss black sometimes that is really akin to a real lacquer paint meaning it it has a fast drying agent smell almost like acetone.The paint in that case  can glob on the my Badger Airbrush little tips on the edge and I had a car painter on another forum it was humidity and temperature so now it's cold in my room.But ,back to the pebbles don't go the sandpaper route quite yet go to a paint shop or parts house and get an 800 grit scotch brite it contours to the plastic and levels the paint it's a must when I do Alclad silver on my aircraft before the silver goes down and the more you use the softer it gets. Kevin

 

I tried some AK paint on a little  F-6AQ Recce Mustang just for the wing bands straight from the bottle no thinning sprayed smooth and level kinda liked it.I spray enamels mainly Model Masters or Humbrol and what I like about enamels is you have all night before you have to clean your gun unlike your acrylics you have to be quick.I lost one badger airbrush because I was not through enough and the needle seized in the gun(I broke the brass w/nut twisting) and all I had to do was soak it in ammonia.  

[mtdoramike]

WOW, that is some pretty bad looking orange peel finish for sure. You would have been better to use slow drying enamel and a foam brush. Yeah I don't see any way around the sanding it down.

[semorebutts]

So I think I’m going to leave the paint on the hull the way it is.  If I try to fix it I will be in danger of abandoning the model and I don’t want to do that. 

 

I started messing around with all the washes I bought. 

I have no idea what I’m doing. I tried out the salt streaks, rust streaks and the streaking grime. Does it look ok? Any pointers before I do the entire hull? The salt streaks are barely noticeable. The orange peel does not seem to effect the wash (thank god) 

Also I started on the base.  I bought a 1 by 12 premium pine board. I wanted oak but holy crap $60?!?

 

[yvesvidal]

The pine will likely warp. Not sure about Premium quality, but I am done with those pine boards from Lowe's or Home Depot. 

You will have to treat it (varnish) to minimize the risks.

 

YVes

[semorebutts]

Will oak warp?

[Javlin]

2 hours ago, semorebutts said:

Will oak warp?

Any wood can warp but the denser the wood it's propensity decreases.Now the Pine you have can still be used if you were to glue a 1/2"T X 1"W frame around the edge whether on the top or the bottom will keep it flat.What are the dimensions of your board?I get the feeling you live in a dry/desert like climate?I have two pic for you the boat is on Oak that I ran through the router on three sides in this case about 6yrs old now and I live on the GOM high humidity year round.The other piece of wood is Philippine Mahogany I am showing you this if you want I can plane then router it if you like and send it to to you.The most time is setting up the router but I have other wood projects coming my way so that side of the shop is about to get active again. Kevin

[Javlin]

I like the staining by the way but I usually do that when I am through with the build but I do smaller scales 1/700 and 1/350.I think it allows one to blend it in better to the overall effect of the build.It looks like once this is applied their is no turning back?