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Missouri by semorebutts - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC - Pontos detail up & advanced add on


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Salt streaks aren't very noticeable I found whilst searching on the net. Only in some very severe cases. There isn't much diference between dark or light coloured hulls either. Places you will see it best are those where the water flows down the hull because of a breakwater, scuppers, transition from surrounded deck to an open deck (bulwark or not). On the image from Lou, there may be something which forces the water down aft

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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I agree.

On some ships at certain times in their lives, there may be signs of weathering or even heavy weathering depending on size of the ship, location and seasons and other factors. But as a rule most military ships seem to be fairly well maintained over all. This is even more pronounced  when dealing with capitol ships and especially true with the Missouri class ships. I don't think I have ever seen a picture of one of this class of battleships with anything seriously out of order even in close up pictures. The one exception is the Kamikaze hit on the starboard side of the Missouri. They never bothered to repair that damage.

image.png.d2d39e67b54a3e99b5cc221077ea0246.png

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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the stern shows it real good in the earlier picture....darker color ;) 

Edited by popeye the sailor

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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the degree should vary I think........longer and shorter streaking.   anywhere you feel that water would collect and run down.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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You do not need to do it on every porthole, every scupper, etc. It should be random, as should be the "severity". As Lou wrote already, most capitol vessels were maintained quite good. Better to little than to much

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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5 hours ago, semorebutts said:

Now do I have to do that to every porthole of the superstructure to keep it consistent?

Just a suggestion if I may that is worth every penny you paid for it!;)

 

If you can identify the water discharge ports along the hull I would start with the weathering there and make those places the first "streaks" either a different color than the remaining hull or more rusted if you insist on having rust on the hull. Then I would go to places that are hard to maintain while at sea but receive the heaviest wear. The Hawse pipes where the anchor and chain will almost certainly tear away the paint. The steel plating under the areas of the fore deck where the anchor chain drags when the capstans pull them in and let them out. The area of the capstans where they come in contact with the chain. The area at the cut water of the bow where the bow wave is formed and mixes heavily with air as the ship moves through the water. This is a high friction/non maintainable area of the ship as well and even US Coast Guard ships which are ALWAYS showboats will show some paint wear in this area when returning to port. 

 

I am sure that others can come up with more and better ideas as i am in no way ANY KIND of expert but I would think that the areas I mentioned would be a better candidate for rust streaks Than the few portholes on this ship that would probably be well painted and are made of bronze or brass anyway.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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On 7/26/2019 at 8:07 PM, lmagna said:

The steel plating under the areas of the fore deck where the anchor chain drags when the capstans pull them in and let them out. The area of the capstans where they come in contact with the chain.

That moulded raised area is actually covered wioth non-skid.  During WWII, that was a coating that had some asphaltic material in it; ost war it was a rubberized compound that had grit embedded in it while wet.

Repair compound ws stockpiled aboard, usually next to the forward paint locker, and the Special Sea and Anchor Detail was meant to not secure until  touch-ups were complete (unless in horrible seas).  Ditto pain on the exposed chain shots on deck and the wildcat flutes on the capstans.

On capital ships, particularly flag ships with Flag Officers aboard, the SSaAD would usually send a hand down the hawsepipe to touch up the paint on the anchor shank and such of the hawse pipe as could be reached.

 

Capital ships were seldom more than three months out of a port or organized anchorage.  NOw, the bottom of the breakwater might collect some grunge as one got closer to the Area of Operations, where GQ drills got in the way of ongoing maintenance.  Mast legs and tops would be similar--just too much work to get people up there for paint duty (and painting was for Deck Apes, not Sparkies keeping the gear working).

Similarly, the steel deck around the ground tackle could collect crud, as it was exposed to the sea, as would the area in under the gun mounts on the Iowas.  The forwards edge of the wooden deck wouls go gray and show some weathering, too.

 

Mind, barring anything but a Saturday Inspection in port, or at GQ, the 20mm mounts would be in a blobby canvas cover painted to match the local camo color.  And, there ought be tompions in the 5" and 16" barrels--but casual obervers do not grok that at all.

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Thanks

I did not realize how much attention was applied to the fore deck and gear while leaving harbor or under underway. While I have seen plenty of pictures of seamen spraying down the anchor chain while it was coming aboard I had no idea repainting was also underway at that point. I always thought that was a chore reserved for when the ship returned to port and could normally be approached at a more leisurely and thorough time frame..

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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13 hours ago, lmagna said:

I had no idea repainting was also underway at that point. I always thought that was a chore reserved for when the ship returned to port and could normally be approached at a more leisurely and thorough time frame..

Merchant vessels, which have smaller crews can't "afford" to put that sort of manpower on the foredeck.
The LPO (or CPO/Warrant) in charge of the Sea and Anchor Detail has a long list of things to mind setting or weighing anchor.  They are expected to watch the shots as they come on deck and note if any have excessive wear or need repainting.  The deck detail is expected to wash the rust powder that comes up out of the chain locker with the shots is washed overboard.   In foreign anchorages, the Detail will need to ensure the buoy is bent on to the deployed anchor.

On an Iowa, the Sea nd Anchor detail will likely have an Ensign or a JG (and a Warrant, like as not) supervising the detail.  They--the 20-25 or so on deck, and who ever is needed for the capstan machinery belowdecks-- have a number of things to sort out.  Like striking off most of the stopper and lashing them out of the way so the shots can ride out without interference.  Somebody has to mind all the pins and shackles and the like for the pelican hooks on all the stoppers.   There's even more to  do if it's to be a two-point mooring, so that there will be a swivel on deck and four split links.  And that, before rigging the snatch block to which up enough shots, to flake out on deck to fit in the other anchor (unless the rode is long enought to set the swivel over the side --usually through the bullnose).   

Capital ships are large, but they are limited places at sea.  There's a long history of walking the deck for a bit of exercise, particularly if it's nice out.  So, there's a very real possibility that the foredeck will be visited by the Department Heads, the XO, the Captain, the Admiral, his Chief of Staff or the like--all of whom gennerally have experience in operating a ship at sea.  (Oh, and the GunnO [head of the Gunnery Deartment] is going to tour all the gun mounts on a middling regular basis.)

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  • 1 month later...
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On 1/23/2020 at 12:31 PM, CDW said:

I think he is occupied doing snow cleanup in the winter. He said one time he was an equipment operator for a local government agency.

Yes, you're right. I remember him posting photos of some of the jobs. I just thought he might just drop a quick note as to what's going on as he still logs in. His user page said he last visited the site on January 23.

Edited by JohnEnglish
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Hey guys, sorry I’ve been gone forever. My dad died then a good friend died. I withdrew from everything.   
I’m back now. Better late than never right? 
so I started back up on the Missouri 2 weeks ago.  Here’s a few pictures of what she looks like now.  Not much progress, sorry.

FDBC9FFC-8A96-45FC-94CA-6A152180AE5E.thumb.jpeg.6fa4ef249a6320688b0fb00b254191bf.jpeg824CBD11-7BBB-4CDD-9EF5-2C5FEC9025ED.thumb.jpeg.bf9dbe435be30923d83fd080a30ef6bb.jpegFF00D3F3-C713-450B-9976-F4277C4720C5.thumb.jpeg.c09662d9603da04a8fdce49721e7f982.jpeg099990E7-0CC8-434E-9E4C-D942E202EBFF.thumb.jpeg.ebc95947cdc59f535dccb4a626030593.jpeg3FC92698-2AD5-4FC5-8029-C8233B619581.thumb.png.7475b45b9d9a761293a378360901d59a.pngF3A0DFCC-AA78-4EDE-80C7-0E5DAFAC1081.thumb.png.7d08880b844f8049aaafd542d1a5443f.pngD832586C-8924-4674-ABAB-C55BB167AD8D.thumb.png.051ea32f616ed7f864ba58cc7781587c.png

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Glad life is returning for you and looking forward to seeing more of you again. Sorry for your double loss so close together.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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my condolences good buddy :(   

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Same kind regards form me  - welcome back.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Sorry to hear about your loss.  My condolences.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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I dug up more photos of the last 2 weeks.

6A2C2C85-5B51-401F-B278-8D118F15428F.thumb.jpeg.a9635197956230ad12819babfd5aea9b.jpeg77ECF653-C3C5-405C-B782-3C0AF5519563.thumb.jpeg.2558db5b752500ae378f473fc842bc2e.jpegA9F93995-0052-4ED0-A015-5AD11A1C0E33.thumb.jpeg.fd7d91482fecf51832b04be2e424881e.jpeg2BEED79C-1894-460C-B684-FF870A052906.thumb.jpeg.3dce46e419cca34d7634721047448fae.jpeg

there’s 52 of those guns. Instead of making them all at once I’ve decided to make them as I need them. 
A3779B39-77B1-4A1E-BC0B-AF1396BBAAED.thumb.jpeg.914a9f157f08bb6d7adc5492d14e6947.jpegD2ABCAEC-52BE-4085-900E-2A0B1150BB07.thumb.jpeg.83eaa9e10e24b8cc44d4fe0bb52728d5.jpeg

same with these,  as I need them. 
194306DA-2187-419D-91D3-E547AAC8F654.thumb.jpeg.db25505905e2a15dc70a201f2b788915.jpegC54E4478-6858-48CB-B477-E4A7FB7F51F9.thumb.jpeg.9032d893cbafb3b78083fc221686b12b.jpeg
One is slightly weathered. One is not

9E9FD5DE-54BD-4904-8839-5B103F412A2A.thumb.png.e511cb002da496626412c1e9668919d2.png2992BEDB-7300-4A0A-AC2B-9535CDCE1DA1.thumb.png.e7a058731d192254cd128e8f0e4c095b.png

that just about brings me to where I am now. 

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My condolences, too. Nice job with the the AAA weapons.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Sorry to hear of your losses.   Losing family and friends is never easy.  The work you're doing is look A-1.   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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My deepest condolences for you loss, and sincerest gratitude to a very beautiful detailed USS Missouri build.

We are like a big family, sharing what has been lost but also gained, like new friends.

We are all here for each other, to support no matter the issue.

 

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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10 hours ago, Nirvana said:

My deepest condolences for you loss, and sincerest gratitude to a very beautiful detailed USS Missouri build.

We are like a big family, sharing what has been lost but also gained, like new friends.

We are all here for each other, to support no matter the issue.

 

So well said.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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That really sucks losing a friend so soon after your father. One of my uncles passed away a few weeks ago after a brief battle with brain cancer.

 

The Missouri looks fantastic. Your work is inspiring me to get back into serious modelling after being away for a number of years.

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I didn’t have much time today for MO.

the next section I’ll focus on is this section.  Should be easy enough. 
C4125C4A-212D-4FE3-B221-19A69E1C86E0.thumb.png.b232335612c3a797ef434c526075bf09.png

So basically I just cut everything out. 
3878EAE6-7C93-457A-AA49-8C5B7BE47F41.thumb.jpeg.b5b770937c216c35c08df429f3347bd2.jpeg8F2EB3C1-5A42-4735-933E-90EC1F3011EE.thumb.jpeg.bba4b3c54971a04b8ec6fa162a4aa557.jpegE1B894FE-5B4F-4F18-A9C5-FE1B6821FC3C.thumb.png.02d36f3f2aa383eb3a053b977c7c8dea.png6E7455C2-63D8-4970-A37B-DD1D9C142358.thumb.png.64fe0d0627cf3bc689f010bd87ac24b2.png

I figured it out but damn, is Pontos trying to make the instructions as hard as possible to understand?

FA9A030A-99B5-4B65-A412-0FD7E3C9846E.thumb.jpeg.f60775ffe4d6c71cd3fe05629b76658e.jpeg

oh and I assembled these two pieces. 
D3AAA9A3-D096-4191-AC69-B03CE96025EF.thumb.jpeg.8f5ae3874d1f2bca413696048b7d6a97.jpeg

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