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mtaylor

La Belle Poule 1765 by MTaylor - Scale 1:64 - POB- French Frigate from ANCRE plans

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Sorry to enter late Mark, but gad to see you back in the workshop and making great progress - an interesting subject and your previous experience with Licorne will help greatly.

 

cheers

 

Pat

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I was getting bored waiting for the wood (be here next week) so besides doing more drawings, I found some "old" 3 ply wood.  I don't think it's the "lite" though as I bought probably 10 years ago.  Minor warping but figured it would work as a test.    I'm glad I did....  Seems when I did the drawings I didn't account properly for the kerf(s).:blush: There's a a total of 8 and all together they added up to ... drum roll.....  about 1/8" (or 3mm if you prefer).  So it's back to the drawing board.  

 

Anyway, here's a picture where all the joints except the middle one are pressed tight and the extreme ends (not shown) are at the proper place on the drawing.  I have to rework 4 drawings to hopefully get the false keel right and then there's the bow part of the boxwood keel to re-work and check (again with scrap wood).  But it does keep me off the street and out of trouble... mostly.

 

She's going to be probably the biggest model I've made as all mine (including this one) are 1:64.  Looks to be about just less than 28" (71 cm) long from stem to the end of the stern.

DSCF3088.thumb.JPG.818b3a2fd4c7046841716daa0d7b0689.JPG

 

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Posted (edited)

What did you expect, when you are burning wood!?

 

It will probably be the image, but A & B have the right side from the slot nearer the vertical line, and C & D the left, shouldn't the vertical line be in the middle? That way it seems both sides would have an equal size (maybe stil oversized, but at the proper location)

Edited by cog

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Welcome aboard Kevin and Carl.    Popcorn is good.   :)

 

I re-considered some issues... like having a false keel in 4 parts. Too much room for idiocy on my part.  So... redrew it a single unit.  Looks better now.  I'm happy the wood order hasn't arrived yet.  It should work out better now.  I did move some bulkheads a very small bit and reworked them to not alter the ship's lines.  

 

Here's the false keel drawing (note that dimensions have been altered because "reasons").  

 

Test.thumb.jpg.68037e1cec6a567f33ad2b18a5c1815f.jpg

 

 

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Plenty of chairs and the popcorn is fresh. :)   I'm just about done doing drawings and have actually cut a few piece of boxwood for the keel.  But really on hold until the plywood gets here later this week.  Seems the holiday got in the way of the delivery truck.

 

 

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Mark are you going to laser cut the bulkheads?  If so, might I suggest a few minor tweaks.  Mostly on the bulkheads that have really thin points on the bottom where they get very narrow.  If you laser cut this the bulkhead will end up being about 1/2" short on the bottom.

 

Bulkhead #1.jpg

 

It is better to shape the bottom like this so the laser kerf doesnt burn the bottom points away.  Kit companies really need to do this because all of their bulkheads are too short when the ends come to a sharp point.  You will fair the hull anyway....and they will end up being correct after you are done sanding.

 

bhead.jpg

 

 

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I like chuck's thinking mark  - would certainly help those delicate bottom areas, I had the same problem with my Greyhound  where I found the burning from the laser cutting had made them too short  and even some had chipped away.

 

I would even be tempted to paint the extreme edges in some CA  (just thinly)  to give them a bit of strength.

 

OC.

Edited by Old Collingwood

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Thanks Chuck.  That sounds like good idea. 

 

The white inside is what is supposed to be left...  but hasn't happened so some rework is required.  I'm going to follow your advice anyway, no matter how I cut themb and I'll still do a test cut using the laser but 1/4" ply which might not be doable.  I like your idea no matter what method.  I'll include this in my testing for both the scroll saw and the laser.

 

When I test the laser to mark the wood for cutting, I add double the blade kerf thickness, print out the cut sheet and cut just at the outside edge of the marks.  So far, so good on that.   

 

With the long weekend, wood is not expected until Weds. or Thurs. <sigh>

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Mark

Please allow me to slightly hijack your log to ask OC about his suggestion in the post above. 

Can you ( OC) expand on your technique of painting CA onto wood to strengthen it?  Does that help only with minor surface chipping, or does it penetrate enough to actually reinforce, say, a timberhead, or, say, a small spar thru which you want to drill a hole near the end?

Again, Mark, sorry for the digression. 

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6 hours ago, Srodbro said:

Mark

Please allow me to slightly hijack your log to ask OC about his suggestion in the post above. 

Can you ( OC) expand on your technique of painting CA onto wood to strengthen it?  Does that help only with minor surface chipping, or does it penetrate enough to actually reinforce, say, a timberhead, or, say, a small spar thru which you want to drill a hole near the end?

Again, Mark, sorry for the digression. 

Hi steve,   (hope  you dont mind me discussing this on your log mark)     my thinking was/is that the CA glue would harden and even with just a smear from a fine brush, would add a small amount of protection  to a fine delicate part,   I have never tried it but in hindsight it might work.

 

OC.

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I've tried the brush and thin CA.  Be prepared to have a supply of brushes on hand as the CA sets up fast.  Anything other than "thin" won't soak in a bit into the wood.   I have used diluted white glue (water to dilute to "milky" consistency).  Put it on, let it dry, and bit of sanding to take of any highspots.  

 

 

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On 8/30/2019 at 9:06 PM, mtaylor said:

Welcome aboard Kevin and Carl.    Popcorn is good.   :)

 

I re-considered some issues... like having a false keel in 4 parts. Too much room for idiocy on my part.  So... redrew it a single unit.  Looks better now.  I'm happy the wood order hasn't arrived yet.  It should work out better now.  I did move some bulkheads a very small bit and reworked them to not alter the ship's lines.  

 

Here's the false keel drawing (note that dimensions have been altered because "reasons").  

 

Test.thumb.jpg.68037e1cec6a567f33ad2b18a5c1815f.jpg

 

 

I like moving to a single piece if the Death Star can handle it.  Only issue might be that if you are using plywood, finding a piece that long that is perfectly flat might be a challenge.  

 

Nice to see you back in the workshop!

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Thanks Piet.

 

Mike,

It's too big for the Death Star.  The main backbone (false keel) is about 29" long.  I've ordered "Lite" plywood which I'll let settle in before using it. I'm also planning on putting in spacers between the bulkheads to help. 

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Pat,

The backbone (false keel) is 1/8" (3.175 mm) thick 3-ply plywood.  My bulkheads are 1/4" 3-ply plywood and are 1-1/2" (41 mm) on center.  I intend to put some wood braces between the bulkheads and along the false keel to make it rigid.

 

On the local news front... my plywood is being delivered tomorrow.   Yippee....  woohoo-1298.gif.902d940ded9a55611f54e9651c92e732.gif

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The wood arrived and is currently laying flat on my bench with some heavy weights on it.   I guess spending a week in the back of truck in this heat and humidity did it.   I'm also going to have to rework my drawings a tad as, for example, the quarter inch thick wood isn't.  It's about 1/32 shy of 1/4 inch so I'll need to close up the tolerance on the slots in the false keel.

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Update, finally.  I've managed to do the false keel in one piece.  Thank heavens for small favors on that one.  I've also cut out the all bulkheads, managed to make the keel, stem, and sternpost.   In the photos, are the false keel with the bulkheads simply fitted.  I'm having a few "minor" issues with the framing bits breaking off but I'm working on a solution.  As it is, 6 maybe 7 need to come off anyway due to being in the way of the gunports.  I will say that I'm glad I'm doing her in 1:48 but 1:64.  She's still a big girl.  

 

As for the framing bits breaking, I think I had too much "heat" with the laser and I've have some ideas which is the next couple of days project.   I do need to cut "false" frame ends because like pointed out, many will get off for the ports especially the forward 6 bulkheads.  I'll either cut new bulkheads (after modifying the framing bits or fix what I have.  I'm hoping fixing works better rather than having to order more wood.

 

Anyway, here's photos.  So until next time... 

 

1-2.thumb.JPG.9c8f31aac67ef27cfbd64e817c33b8cc.JPG

1-1.thumb.JPG.bee93df8896f74a1c70f7b54355f6fbd.JPG

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Thanks for the likes.   

 

Pat, ribands are on the menu of "must do".

 

Luckily, I had ordered more plywood last week as I suspected that if I didn't, Murphy would run amok and he did.  Somehow, I had two sets of CAD drawings instead of one original and one copy to be transferred to the laptop running the cutter. <double facepalm time). Which means that many of frames were cut with the wrong CAD drawings.   Steps have been taken to ensure this doesn't happen again: a good self flogging and a temporary reduction in the rum ration. 

 

Any way, when the wood gets here, I'll recut the frames that need cutting, make extra ribs (especially for the bow) and also sort out adding new ones to replace the 6-7 I have to remove for the gunports.   I'm probably going to use a mixture if filler woods below the deck line such as balsa and basswood and possibly some much of scrap plywood to align the bulkheads and also strengthen and straighten the false keel.   Now to be patient waiting for the plywood to arrive from Maine.

 

 

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those are delicate posts Mark........very prone to breakage.    would it have been a benefit to make them a bit thicker to allow for sanding and faring?   great job on the frame so far!  this coming from one that is still chained to his scroll saw  ;)  

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