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San Francisco II by Jim Bassett - Artesansia Latina - 1/90


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Like most fears in life my fear of planking was unwarranted.  The Bissell Steamer worked like a charm.  It puts out some really concentrated hot steam.  I didn't do any soaking, it bends the planks like butter and the plank dries quickly so it can be glued in place sooner.  I didn't get the Balsa so I added supports shown with a red mark which worked well.  I did not start spiling planks soon enough.  I already had 3 in place at the top and bottom before I started to spile.  It took awhile to soak in all the information and I didn't get DesertWolf's warning soon enough.  I looked up the definition of spiling and there was none but I finally got it anyway and I think my hull will look good enough for a first time.

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I saw some posts about the crazy hinges so I took a look.  It didn't make sense to me either so I looked up pintle and gudgeon rudder mounting on older sailing ships.  I never saw even one with notches cut in the rudder and to me that was the biggest part of the problem.  I also saw that the picture of the rudder in the instructions was different than my actual rudder.  I am going to cut the tabs formed by the notching so it is one continuous surface and mount the hinges in the standard pintle/gudgeon manner.  The pictures show how I formed the hinges.  I like to make or modify my own tools whenever possible.

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Jim, I think you are doing an excellent job...learning curves are steep on some of these models and you are adjusting and adapting well!!! She looks great, and your rudder and hinges will look nice and clean too I can tell. Keep up the great work!

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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She looks really good Jim and your hinges look crisp too. I spent so much time trying to work that brass-like metal that I ended up snapping them in half and had to start from scratch. That's not a bad thing of course ;) That pliers you grooved is a neat trick too... darn... i never thought of that ^_^

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Thank you Robbyn n' Randy, for your kind words.  Randy, how are they doing at WKRP?  We lived in Cincinnati when I was very young when people lived in caves and models were carved from stone.  I've never had anyone around me that was really interested or could relate to my modeling hobby so its nice to have people who can relate and appreciate.  Before I got this model I saved a few build logs as favorites to study and refer to and both of yours as well as DesertWolf's helped me the most. This is a really cooool site.  I'm beginning to adjust to the idea that it is going to take quite awhile to finish the planking but there are other things I can work on like the hinges.  It's the journey... as they say.

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Nice work Jim, It's fun to see how people enjoy the same hobby in different ways. I'm second planking at the moment and I love the repetitivness of planking. I find your steamer usage intriging, its so great to see some one work through problems in different ways.

 

I've been under the weather and am behind on my log reading and as I read your log and you were inquiring about balsa, I was in my mind screaming Balsa is a MUST. Then you use psuedo-cant frames and show a completely new method of supporting. IMHO the blunt bow of the SF requires more support for the planking across the bow and you've created a new differing method. Excellent work and excellent innovation. Love the doors also.

 

There's lots to do to break up the monotomy of planking. Like tapering mast and yard, if you have storage space. I think monotonous tasks are ultimately one of the reasons many builders have 2 ships going.

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Your right Keith, there are a lot of things to do while planking, I made a list and it is rather long.  I don't think I could do two ships at once-my brain might explode (it would be a very small explosion).  Thanks for the compliments.

 

Jim

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A comment about using balsa to fill in the bow for planking.  I didn't use it but rather added some supports similar to a knight head.  While those work fairly well I can see that it would have been better to use the balsa-so I would definitely use the balsa next time.

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Ahhhh, he has said the magic words..."next time". He is doomed to the ranks of the shipaholics already :P

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Actually Jim, look for a local chapter of the Modeliolistic Society of the Whichonenextologists.... (MSW?) They are easy to spot as they all look glassy eyed from lusting after build logs, a tiny bit of spittle usually on the left side of the mouth and more than two fingers stuck together with CA glue.

Doesn't sound terribly attractive but a good kind-hearted harmless bunch ;) I'm told my membership card is in the mail :)

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The Balsa provides a complete bonding surface in my opinion. I even placed balsa boxs between bulkheads 2 and 3 for extra gluing surface for the garboard plank. But then I'm an over-kill kinda guy. Russ gave me the ideas and mentored me on planking, greatly to my advantage.

 

The hobby does have hooks. I find that I never cease to amaze myself, if I but just try and MSW is alot of the reason why. As for the meetings, your here.

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A complete and necessary bonding area.  As I plank one above and one below, repeat, repeat,.... working toward the middle of the hull I will have not have sufficient surface area to glue the bow end of the planks to.  But I'm fixing that.  If your new like me and wondering about the need for balsa as they say...JUST DO IT!  Has anybody used bass wood instead?  It would hold a push pin but harder to sand to shape.  Maybe use a mini sander?

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My Swift actually came with basswood boxs and I switched out to balsa. Your correct on the push pin issue but I refuse to pin or CA unless held at gun point. :D

Seriously though, the basswood in my opinion would take forever to shape, thats why I changed them out and the balsa still took quite a while to shape.

 

After the trouble I had on the swifts deck and my attempted use of pins I tossed that idea forever. BTW the deck is the only piece CA'd on the DSotM and I decided after that I'd PVA from that point.

 

Oh one thing I'll add. If you can't find local balsa blocks I've seen some builders use layered balsa in its place, using thicker balsa pieces.

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Well the planking is going along fairly well.  At this stage I am pre-bending a small portion of the plank at the bow, gluing that end in place and then steam bend it on the hull, clamp it and when dry glue the rest of the plank in place.  I made my own bending fixture.  I'm finding it hard to get clamps in a position to hold the plank properly.  Been working on the cannons and the cannon doors in between planks.  The cannons are not quite the color in the picture, I used a red primer.  I took thread and tied it around the wheels where they join the carriages to make them look separate.  I used beads to look like the axles.  I decided to cheat and not cut openings in the hull for the cannon doors but rather I built a frame on the door to fill the extension that would normally go in the cut opening.  Then after I get the rubbing strakes in place I can glue the doors in exactly centered no matter what happens while assembling the strakes.

 

Happy Fathers day to all you Daddy-o's.

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Forgot to mention the shields (shields?).  I filled them in with paint and when dry I turned them over and sanded to get the results shown, sorry the picture isn't real crisp.

 

 

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Hi Jim - this is really incredible work! The planking looks great and the detail is fantastic. I wish I had read your very simple explanation of how to finish the shields when I was building this model a year ago! Now I know! Keep up the good work!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch)
 
under the bench: Admiralty Echo cross-section; MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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Wow good work!

Eric

 

Current build(s) ;

AL San Francisco II

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/862-san-francisco-2-by-eric-al-190-sport29652/

 

MS Rattlesnake

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/868-rattlesnake-by-eric-model-shipways-164-sport29652/page-2

 

Sitting on the shelf : MS Constitution, MS Sultana,

 

Wish List : MS Essex, Confederacy, and Syren, and a Victory kit by someone ?

 

"80% of the time it works every time."

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello everybody,

 

Its been awhile, busy etc..  I'm almost finished with one side of the hull planking.  I have one last piece that will be tough to cut and shape.  When I finish I will put up pictures.  It would be okay if I never had to plank another ship, maybe I will feel differently down the road.  I haven't put pictures up as I went along because I don't think I will do it the same way again.  That is why I completed one side before I did anything on the other side.  The other side will be done differently, in what I hope will be an easier and less tedious way (maybe).  Normally I wouldn't be to fond of having the model planked differently on each side but this is my learning ship so I'm going to be OK with it.  The way my ships are displayed you can't view both sides of the hull at once anyway, their on a built in shelving unit.  pictures to come.

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Well there it is for better or worse this portion is completed.  It still needs to be sanded smooth.  It was quite a journey!#*!#**!! :angry::huh::o:D and a lesson in persistence.  I am going to do the other side by starting at the bulwarks and going down to the keel all in one direction.  I will spile all the planks so they will curve upward toward the bow.  Starting at the bulwarks and the keel and moving toward the middle really created some hard to cut, hard to clamp planks when nearing the middle, the last plank was nearly impossible to cut correctly.  I don't know if I am doing the right thing but as I said this is my learning ship and if the other side doesn't turn out so well then I will display it with that side toward the wall, lesson learned.  If anyone has done it this way and lived to regret it please tell me your story.

 

Thank you DesertWolf for your compliments.

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Jim, I would not change a thing. Your planking is excellent!

 

Working from the bulwarks and keel towards the middle does create a challenging last plank, but I still think this is better than ending up with a super challenging garboard plank as your last plank. But then again, I guess the last plank will always be a challenge, whether at the bulwarks, keel or in the middle.

 

Good luck with the port side planking!

Wolf

 

Current build : San Francisco II (AL)

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Amazing job - especially considering the material you were working with! Very clean and precise - which I could get results as good!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch)
 
under the bench: Admiralty Echo cross-section; MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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Thanks for the compliments.  In my career as a machine designer/drafter I was responsible for creating assembly drawings for a given product that made the assembly as easy and economical as possible.  The question I asked myself at every turn was "is there a better or easier way".  That is the question constantly on my mind as I assemble model ships.  Haven't yet answered that question regarding the planking process and since I don't have all the resources of a fabrication shop at my disposal maybe I never will.  I guess it just has to be looked upon as a labor of love.

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Well done Jim! Planking looks very nice, now only half as much to go :D

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Just  an FYI.  When bending mahogany hull planks I learned to sort the ones that will bend easily from those that won't.  If the grain looks like the left picture they will bend easier than if the grain looks like the right picture.  if the grain looks like the right picture it will be more prone to breaking.  The straighter the grain over the length of the plank the easier it will bend without breaking.

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