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DARIVS ARCHITECTVS

La Couronne 1636 by DARIVS ARCHITECTVS - Corel - Scale 1:100 - First wooden ship build by Kurt Suleski

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Some details were worked on.  The plywood channels are going to be replaced with scratch built ones made out of cherry wood.  This is being done for two reasons.  First, the channels for the foremast and mainmast are being relocated below the upper gun deck, just above the central wale, and just below the gun ports of the upper gun deck.  For many early 17th century galleons, the tumble home was greater than ships built just before 1700, so the channels needed to be located lower on the hull in order for the shrouds not to contact the railings or gunwales.  The tumble home on the Corel hull shape can allow the channels to be mounted higher, but I think it looks closer to the convention of the time with them in the lower position.  It's a feature that distinguishes the vessel as early 17th century.  Because moving the channels will require relocating all the shroud and deadeye locations to avoid blocking any guns, the slots for the chain plates will be cut into the channels after the channels are installed on the hull.

 

The pinnace boat frame supports were detached from the main deck and sanded thinner because they looked overly thick and clunky.  The rear support frame for the pinnace was re-positioned a bit farther forward and re-glued to the grating, then four blackened brass eyelets were installed on the frame surrounding the grates, adjacent to the pinnace frames.  The eyelets are Caldercraft part number 83505, and are laser etched and very small.  Model eyelets tend to be over sized, and these are much closer to scale.  Laser etched eyelets are much smaller that any eyelets I make from wire, even with tiny tools.  The boat was lashed to the support frames with 0.25mm tan cord supplied with the kit.  To make this easier, the the cord was tied to the first eyelet, and then it was passed through the remaining three eyelets.  Each eyelet, starting with the one the cord is tied to, installed into drilled holes with CA glue.  The line is still loose enough to get the boat under it.  The boat is glued to the supports, and the cord loops are passed over the front and rear ends of the boat.  The slack in the cord is then removed, pulling it carefully through the eyelets, and the the loose end is secured at the first eyelet.  A bit of PVA glue secures the knot.  The remaining end of the rope can be glued to the deck, or if you prefer, coiled and glued to the deck.   

 

Instead of breaking off and replacing the over-sized kevels, I decided to simply add the horizontal supports for each kevel individually.  Some thin boxwood scrap was cut with scissors, then notches were cut with a small razor saw, and a needle file and small sanding block were used to shape each tiny piece until they were custom fit around the staghorns of each kevel.  You have to have steady hands and a delicate touch to make last minute changes like this in tight areas.  The parts were positioned in place after a few test fits, and secured with CA glue.  The last picture below shows the kevels before staining.  To darken the white wood, some pine colored stain was applied with a small brush and the color now matches the staghorns perfectly.  If you're going to fix a mistake or add a detail, it needs to blend in.

 

1058021377_536ReplaceKitChannelsWithCherryWood.thumb.jpg.db8c376e7ad1df07567ff20e83eb449d.jpg

463633442_537InstallPinnaceandTieDown.thumb.jpg.0ef15fba70c2c881bf8ac8c1aabf63cd.jpg

929945104_538AddedHorizontalPartstoAllKevels.thumb.jpg.dc9af3c4518d211d17d76a04d531c229.jpg

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CRAP!  Corel didn't provide cable laid rope for the standing rigging!  So, I put and order in to Domanoff's Workshop for both La Couronne and the next model, HMS Sovereign of the Seas.  Does anyone beside Domanoff provide cable laid rope?  I could build a rope making jig, but for only two models it's just as well to order some.  So much for starting work on the shrouds.  Oh well.  The masts and yards need blocks installed to prepare for running rigging...

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Hi everyone,

 

Alexey at Domanoff's Workshop sent me enough cable and ropes in various sizes for La Couronne and HMS Sovereign of the Seas.  I ordered these a short while ago and they look really great and will provide an authentic detail for both models.

 

But, before I can fit and attach the channels on La Couronne and begin working on the shrouds, I needed to finish the upper deck gun port lids and install the 9 pound gun barrels.  For all gun on La Couronne, scratch built trucks and gun barrels of the proper sizes were installed on additional decks to replace all the fake half cannons on the model.  Making full carriaged guns for all guns looks a lot better than fake half barrels stuck into a piece of wood.  You can see the fronts of the carriages on the gun decks.  Fake barrels look FAKE and are an ugly shortcut even at this scale.  Each gun port lid and cannon was completed using the following steps.

 

The Gun port lids were finished previously, and the hinges were glue to them.  Now they have to be pinned to the hull.  Brass pins are bent 90 degrees against a block of wood using small narrow needle nosed pliers.  Then they are all blackened.  Each door is sanded to fit precisely into each portal as you go, since there are minor variations in the portals made when I cut them by hand.  I opted to have all the lids open in order to show off the guns.  An Archimedes drill is used to drill three holes, two for the hinge pins and one for the span line (rope that pulls the lid open).  

 

A hole is drilled through the lid for the rope which will double as the span line, used to haul the lid open, and the lanyard used to pull the lid closed.  Normally, each of the lines would be secure to the lid with an iron eyelet, but at 1:100 scale such eyelets would be too small to see anyhow.  

 

After inserting the pins in the hinges and gluing the end of the span line in the hole in the hull, the opposite end of the line is stiffened with CA glue and fed through the lid.  A needle hose pliers is used to insert the each hinge pin half way into the holes above the portal.  A small amount of CA glue is applied to the exposed area of each pin, then both pins are carefully and evenly pushed with the pliers the rest of the way into the hull.  If you break a hinge off the lid, just glue it back on.  It happens.

 

Feed the span line through the lid and add a bit of CA glue to the line above the lid.  Raise the lid up to final open position and draw the span line taut, pulling the glue through the hole in the lid to secure it from moving.  Trim the remaining line, now the lanyard to length, and glue the bitter end to the inside of the top of the portal.  Glue is applied to the inner surface of the port with a tool made from a piece of stiff wire bent 90 degrees at the tip.  Poke the end of the line into glue and leave the lanyard with a small amount of slack in it.  

 

Glue the gun barrel onto the truck.  Caps for the gun barrel trunnions are far to small to even bee seen at this scale, so don't bother with them.  Caps are simulated with paint in guns visible from above on the bridge deck.  

 

After all the upper gun deck guns and lids were finished, the scratch built channels for the fore mast were contoured to the shape of the hull and test fit.  Tread tied to the mast was used to check if any of the shrouds will interfere with the forecastle railings.  The channels for the fore mast and main mast will be placed below gun ports of the upper gun deck and above the ports on the lower gun deck contrary to the Corel model design plans and in the fashion of many 17th century galleons.  The lowest 18 pound guns and lids were also installed near the stern.

 

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1474697762_542HandDrillHolesOutboardofHingesfortheHingePins.thumb.jpg.9dadd116523534556c24ff8fc965905c.jpg

784134208_543LidRopeGluedtoHull.thumb.jpg.837376e5bc434d02bdea635f98102d49.jpg

1597108641_544InsertPinsMostoftheWayInThenApplyGlue.thumb.jpg.4b8221ad0d759112427cef47b47ae4cd.jpg

1490663921_545PushPinsinandAddGluetoLidRope.thumb.jpg.4fd748f1bfa734a56d6c5429223b1c01.jpg

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1952123946_555UpperDeskGunsFinished.thumb.jpg.b01a77a66bc3fd893457ea0f3ef019d2.jpg

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Three of the lower deck cannons and lids were completed on each side because they would be too difficult to install once the channels are in place.  Seams for the timbers that make up the channels for the foremast were simply penciled in on both sides of each channel and varnished over to lock in the markings.  The forward channels were glued to the hull atop the wale.  The location of the shrouds for the foremast and their deadeyes and chain wales can now be determined, which will present a design challenge so as not to block any of the gun ports.  Notches for the lower deadeyes will be cut, and other fittings like brackets on the channels will then be fitted.

 

51806051_556DrawSeamLinesonChannelsandVarnish.thumb.jpg.33a815e16fa8f1476562b0762c0e35bd.jpg

1728539577_557AttachStbdForeChannel.thumb.jpg.82a1f3be9bd1c70ca39a152f308bf0a5.jpg

780429744_558AttachPortForeChannel.thumb.jpg.2ca391ad15d6a369361f65d5cdcc42e7.jpg

79874770_559PortForeChannel.thumb.jpg.8d2a2fdc86fa6cf1797aaa7c43f83331.jpg

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The main and mizzen channels were copied in major dimensions from the kit parts in cherry wood, and attached to the hull with CA glued.  Before coating them with spray varnish, a thin mechanical pencil was used to draw the lines separating the planks that make up each channel to simulate the seams.  More details added = better model.  Since the shroud locations were not altered from the original kit design, the notches for the mizzen channel kit parts were transferred to the new parts.  The shrouds for the main and fore masts will be relocated to new positions based on the new cannon port layout to avoid interference.

 

1560653914_664CopyKitMainChannelsinCherryWood.thumb.jpg.d6e254c4ef305865204e2ddb520e9dfb.jpg

163900495_665PortMainChannelAttached.thumb.jpg.5ac0f883de974b5343bd8b890ca0d182.jpg

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1795273408_671AllChannelsInstalled.thumb.jpg.768397495ae09d235a25e35c5167f512.jpg

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Beautiful! I always love seeing the guns and port lids stage finish. It is a phase of construction that usually signifies that you are nearing completion of the hull work and that mast and rigging are on the horizon. 

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If I'm remembering correctly, the lifts will go down to the knights for the courses, and the vertical posts of the bits for the tops and topgallant yards. The halyards and sheets for the courses and topyards go to the bit cross member with courses being towards the middle and topyards outward. The topgallant yards halyards and sheets secure to the railings on aft side of the fore and main tops. 

 

Main thing is to ensure that none of the lines foul each other. They should each have a clear and straight path from their blocks to their belaying points without crossing other lines.  

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12 hours ago, EJ_L said:

If I'm remembering correctly, the lifts will go down to the knights for the courses, and the vertical posts of the bits for the tops and topgallant yards. The halyards and sheets for the courses and topyards go to the bit cross member with courses being towards the middle and topyards outward. The topgallant yards halyards and sheets secure to the railings on aft side of the fore and main tops. 

 

Main thing is to ensure that none of the lines foul each other. They should each have a clear and straight path from their blocks to their belaying points without crossing other lines.  

Thanks EJ ! ! !

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Regardings kits: Sometimes the parts in the kit are satisfactory.  Some of the fittings and most of the wood was used in La Couronne.  Where a kits typically falls short is detail.  Replacing all the materials in a kit is hugely expensive, so a balance has to be truck to keep costs low.  It also depends on your skill level, knowledge of wooden ship construction, how much you want to spend on tools, books, and materials, how much research you want to do to correct kit features that are known to be inauthentic, and how much patience you have.  All of these contribute to the final appearance of the model, and they vary widely from person to person.  If you put your best effort into the project, the results will always make you happy.  😁

 

Attached is an Microsoft Excel spreadsheet of all the material costs for the kit, tools, research books and extra materials used to build La Couronne.  The total cost of the entire ship project is currently $2293.64.    So far, the cost of DeAgostini's HMS Sovereign of the Seas is $1574.04, and I haven't even started construction yet!  😲

 

La Couronne Model Constructon Expenses.xlsx

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After a long delay and much thought, it's time to get working on the ship model again.  The block pendants and the eyebolts that attach them to the tops for various lines were made for the foremast top.  First, the blocks had to be prepared.  The blocks from the kit come with sharp edges and needed to be reshaped into more rounded and realistic shapes by rounding the sharp edges off with the Block Buster from ModelExpo, which is basically a plastic cup with lid that has 100 grit sandpaper on the inside surfaces.  You put the blocks in, attach the shaft for the internal flapper of the Block Buster to a portable drill, and spin the flapper inside the cup, which you hold with your other hand.  It's like a rock polishing tumbler for blocks.  After spinning the flapper at slow to moderate speed for about 30 seconds, you open the cup and dump out your nicely reshaped blocks and a bit of sawdust.  The blocks were then stained with a red-brown stain to give them a rich color.

 

The pendants were made by taking a length of 0.045" dark brown line and gluing it around the block on one end and feeding the other through a blackened laser etched eyebolt.  PVA glue was used to hold the loop of line together at the center, and a cheap Chinese serving jig was used to wrap the pendant with 0.008" diameter dark brown line.  The serving was tied at the block end with an overhand knot secured with a touch of PVA glue, then more PVA was applied to the line of the pendant.  The jig was then used to slowly rotate the pendant which keeping tension on the serving line with your other hand.  When the serving approached the eye of the eyebolt, it was secured with a simple reverse turn of the line, then the end was trimmed off.  The glue holds the line assembly together.  

 

A total of five pendants were made.  The two in front included an eyebolts attached to the ends of 4mm blocks, and are for the foremast's course sail yardarm lift lines.  Two at the rear of the top are 5mm blocks for the hoist tackle lines used for general lifting and hoisting the pinnace off it's cradle.  The fifth is for the block that the main topmast stay passes through and is attached to the rear of the top.  The shafts of the eyebolts were CA glued into hand drilled holes.  For the eyebolts attached to the crosstrees, the shafts of the eyebolts were bent in outboard direction like a turn nail for extra strength.  The tip of a razor knife was used to cut a tint slot into the top of the crosstrees to accept each bent over portion of the eyebolt, so they would not protrude above the surface of the wood.  The top itself will glued to the trestle tree after all blocks and pendants for rigging in the area of the of have been installed.  This will take some thought, since the Corel model was not meant to include sails, and more eyebolts and blocks may have to installed than the instructions call for, especially if some more lines and details are added to the model. 

 

A couple errors had to be corrected for the fore and main fiferails.  The holes to simulate the sheaves in the fore fiferail needed improvement.  A square needle file was used to open and shape the hole, and a small flat piece of wood was glued into the holes to divide them into two holes, simulating two sheaves in each side.  The tops of the vertical members for both fore and main fiferails were cut too short to tie lines to easily so more wood was added to form the bitts on top.  The holes in the fore knight are a bit sloppy, but at this scale, they won't be that noticeable once the lined for the tackles for the yard ties are installed.  The next ship will be easier since it's larger.

 

1692160181_574StaintheBlocks.thumb.jpg.15a120870705731d75beb32e2a16ccc0.jpg

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More preparation for rigging, drilling and carving the sheaves in the topmasts and top-gallant masts.  Then,  installed blocks for halyards which, with blocks, haul the ties for supporting the mizzen topmast yard and bowsprit topsail yard.  The diagram from R.C. Anderson's book shows how that sheaves appear in the hounds of the topmasts and top-gallant masts.  A tie line is attached to the yard, runs up and through a sheave, back down to a fiddle block.  This fiddle block, combined with another block that is secured to the rearmost side of the lower mast top and a halyard line, are used to haul the tie and raise or lower the yardarm.  The lower 4 mm blocks for each tie were rigged to a small brass laser etched eye-bolt, one for the mizzen mast and one for the bowsprit topmast.  The 0.25 mm line which passes around each block is seized with 0.08 mm brown thread, then PVA glue thinned with water is applied.  A heat gun or hair dryer is useful in drying the glue quickly.  In each case, the shank of the brass eye-bolt is inserted through a hold in the top, then the end is turned over and passed into a second hole in from the bottom surface of the top.  Turn nailing this thin and flexible shank and gluing it in place ensure that it will be a strong connection.  For the bowsprit top, wood was installed which forms the rectangular hole in the center.   

 

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1529355333_592EyeboltShankTurn-NailedintoTop.thumb.jpg.861de8949ce8e3dc35a3650f4d2e2e70.jpg

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Blocks were attached to the masts for the stays.  After a while, I found that for stropping blocks, tying a traditional whipping to secure the line around the block, even on blocks as small as 4mm.   They stay tighter than just winding thread around the line and hoping the glue will be strong enough to hold it in place.

 

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1131579447_596StayBlockonBowsprit.thumb.jpg.726480e6433b293b380ac96c6b529860.jpg

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More progress....

 

A couple more blocks were attached to the sprit, then more blocks were added to the topmast tops.  Two lift line blocks and the main topmast stay line block were attached to the fore topmast crosstrees and top.  Then, two lift line blocks were attached to the crosstrees on the main topmast.  Since the standing rigging basically begins at the front and proceeds aft, It's time to install the bowsprit and make the gammoning to secure it to the beakshead.  The bowsprit was pegged and glued to the forepeak deck.  Now, for the gammoning.

 

Using the directions in R.C. Anderson's book, I decided to challenge myself to making the eyesplice on the end of the 0.8mm diameter gammoning line.  After about 30 minutes, it was done and it looked great.  Not bad for an old sailor who hasn't held a marlin spike for 36 years!  Taking the line and passing it over the the top of the bowsprit and feeding it down through the eye on the end of the line, the gammon line was passed down through the beakshead, through the slot and up and around the bowsprit.  A total of nine passes were made before the slot in the beakshead was full of line.  The gammon line starts at the rear most end of the sprit and subsequent passes go over the sprit, moving in a forward direction.  In the beakshead slot, the line passes are layered in the opposite direction, beginning at the front of the slot, with subsequent passes added, moving rearward.  After nine wraps (your number may vary), the line passes a final time over the sprit, down, and forms a half hitch around the port side group of lines.  Then the line is passed around the starboard line bundle and wrapped around both bundles, drawing them together.  The number of wraps around the center of the gammon line bundle should be equal to the number of gammon line wraps around the sprit, in this case, nine wraps.  The remaining is half hitched around the bundle, glued in place with watered down PVA glue, and the excess line cut off.  The gammoning should be nearly vertical, but with older ships like this, it may angle upward to the rear.  To keep the gammoning from sliding down the sprit, cleats (stops) are attached to the sprit behind the line bundle.  Usually five are arranged in a semi-circle around the top of the sprit.  You may need to attach the cleats before wrapping the gammoning to keep the cord from moving around, but I didn't have to in this case.  The cleats were cut and shaped from 2mm x 2mm cherry wood and glued onto the sprit with CA glue.

 

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69518201_607InstallGammoningCleats.thumb.jpg.bf121bb56f1cb347849a1cc34f251bd6.jpg

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Here are a bunch of pictures to show the progress so far. An alignment jig was made with some wood and a plumb bob to be used later in aligning the masts as they get assembled, and to check alignment as the shrouds and stays are added. An 8" long level is used to align the ship model to a level position before using the jig to set the masts at the correct angle. A protractor may be added to the jig later to set mast rake angles. However, there is little to no information on the proper mast rake angles for ships this old.
 

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1057753753_615MadeaMastAlignmentJig.thumb.jpg.44b3e4fe693b6eb0ce1d77d405232449.jpg

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Good thinking on that jig for setting masts. A useful tool for all builds.

 

The entire model is looking wonderful. You are doing a truly fantastic job with this build. Won't be long now and you will get to start the spider web of rigging. Keep up the good work!

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7 hours ago, EJ_L said:

Good thinking on that jig for setting masts. A useful tool for all builds.

 

The entire model is looking wonderful. You are doing a truly fantastic job with this build. Won't be long now and you will get to start the spider web of rigging. Keep up the good work!

Thanks EJ!  You're the one who got me into this.  I blame you for everything.  :)

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Vincenzo Lusci's book Costruiamo insieme il modello de La Couronne, Vascello francese del 1636, states:

"Nella Couronne peraltro le bigotte dovrebbero essere triangoleggianti (bigotte a
cuore)."

"In Couronne, however, the blocks (deadeyes) should be triangular (heart shaped blocks?)."

This is not the first time I have seen references to early 17th century deadeyes being triangular as opposed to circular in shape. The deadeyes on the DeAgostini model of HMS Sovereign of the Seas are triangular. (the model which the kit is based on, not the ship created using the kit). Since La Couronne is an early early 17th century vessel, it made sense to make the deadeye shapes using this older shape than the round deadeyes provided in the kit. So, based on this information, I decided to reshape all the deadeyes in the kit to triangular. This will lend an older appearance to the vessel, setting it apart from later ships build in the 1650's. It also means I have to file each of the 180 deadeyes, since no one I know makes triangular commercially. Tonight I got through 74 of them. All 72 of the 7mm deadeyes, and two of the 3mm deadeyes (very tiny!) were reshaped. New chain plates were purchased from Model Expo to replace the kit ones. This is because the kit chain plates were made of wire and looked cheap, and the new ones needed to be a bit longer due to the changes made when I moved the channels down below the upper gun deck. They needed to be a few millimeters long in order to reach their attachment points on the wale located below the lower gun deck. The top portions of the new chain plates will be reshaped to the new triangular shape to accommodate the deadeyes.

 

745146658_616FileDeadeyestoTriangularShape.thumb.jpeg.03059acfc16a539a7d2bd5c8d41a9613.jpeg

22951416_617TriangularDeadeyes.thumb.jpeg.9d35ad362123ea83835142963fe53a26.jpeg

 

1071590462_618all7mmDeadeyesReshaped.thumb.jpeg.b83c1bcf15eeb89cfeaa5d625817b4c3.jpeg

Examples of triangular deadeyes on ORIGINAL DeAgostini HMS Sovereign of the Seas.

 

hms_sovereign_2_3.thumb.jpg.2f6adcfe949239b19220430add35bdeb.jpg

 

hms_sovereign_6_3.thumb.jpg.c5c28c7eea3ffd0df45adff3d7ecc15c.jpg

 

hms_sovereign_7_3.thumb.jpg.f49a06794fa2ae45d620992088e3ae27.jpg

 

183633896_HMSSOVEREIGNOFTHESEAS.thumb.JPG.459d1dff5631649c901f185db073ef7a.JPG

 

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Thanks OC!

 

The foremast was glued in place in the forecastle. The mast alignment jig was used to make sure it was vertical. A 6" long liquid carpenter's level was used to make sure that the hull was perfectly level. A piece of a drill bit was used as a pin for the mast, but before the drill bit was broken to obtain the shank for the pin, the bit was inserted into the hole drilled into the bottom of the foremast. The angle of the drill bit in the mast was checked by turning the mast in my fingers with the tip of the bot on the table. Any misalignment was corrected and the bit was glued temporarily into the end of the mast. The mast itself was then used to drill the hole in the upper deck (which is below the forecastle deck) using the bit while ensuring the mast was vertical. Certainly there are easier ways to step the mast into place, but this was quick, and after applying PVA glue to the bottom of the mast, the pin ensured that the alignment of the mast was good. A final check was made with the alignment jig, and the lowest section of the foremast lined up perfectly with the string of the plumb bob.

Using thin pieces of shaved wood, chocks were added to the surface of the bowsprit behind the collars for the blocks installed earlier. This was a small detail, but every detail counts when the model is finished.

All the 7mm deadeyes were stained with Danish Oil (Walnut).  A couple of the 7mm deadeyes and chain plates were made as a start to preparing the chainwales for rigging of the shrouds. The new chain plate sets from Model Expo were used instead of the simplified ones supplied by Corel in the kit. The brass wire surrounding the deadeye was round, and this portion of the wire was straightened, then reshaped into the triangle to hold the 7mm triangular deadeye reshaped earlier. The lower chain plate double eyed link and the copper flat plate were assembled onto the upper chain which holds the deadeye. Before the wood deadeye was inserted and the wire closed around it, the chain plate assembly was blackened with brass blackening solution. At the bottom of the deadeye, the ends of the wire are butted, but but soldered. I know it's a better practice to solder the connection, but the break in the wire is too close to the wood in this design, and soldering would char the wood, and leave a silver shiny spot that requires painting later. The wire appears to be stiff enough to take the stress of the shroud tension without bending the deadeye loop open. The open wire joint will be hidden fairly well between the deadeye and the chainwale, and any gap can be filled with a touch of glue and paint.

 

1847174307_619DrillBitShankForMastPin.thumb.jpg.8071adbfb47258a4776aea7f66dedfa4.jpg

1728715778_620PininForemastBase.thumb.jpg.2bd293c649969af8c8778a974277b7fe.jpg

1152563926_621GlueinForemast.thumb.jpg.b64f2551d3d555c64404b5e5c34312d1.jpg

1498189504_622GlueChocksBehindBowspritCollars.thumb.jpg.a6721c18a3ba33cc131a7d118a74be86.jpg

369026839_623First7mmTriangularDeadeyesandChainPlates.thumb.jpg.6ddca0e303e015073529dab8a798fede.jpg

Edited by DARIVS ARCHITECTVS

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Good use of what I hope is an old drill bit. I like to add pins in a lot of my deck furniture as well as the mast for the extra strength. I like the modifications to the deadeyes as well. It always gets tricky to say exactly when the changes were made and which country made them first as there was often decades of transition for any given change. Regardless, they add an interesting element being the non-traditional round ones that most people are familiar with. It adds a great point of interest to the model. Well done! 

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Amati chainplate assemblies will be used instead of the Corel ones.  Some of the chainplate assemblies were made and the foremast chainwales were marked using a temporary false shroud line.  Notches were cut in the chainwales with a Dremel tool and cutting wheel, then filed to final depth and shape to accept the chainplates on both sides of the hull for the foremast.  The chainplate assembles were blackened in a glass bowl, then small needle nose pliers are used to bend the chainplate parts to place the deadeye in the correct angle at the top, and form to fit the wale on the hull at the bottom.  The ship hull was tipped in its side to allow me to work easier.  Two back pins were used to nail the bottom of the chain plate to the wale and hull.  The upper pin was installed first, being held with pliers in my left had while a tack hammer was used to tap the pin into the hull with my right hand.  The final taps were made with the jaws of the pliers touch the pin head to set the pin all the way in.  Since all this fitting and working rubbed some of the blackening off the chainplates, they were painted black with a small brush once they were installed.  More chainplate assemblies need to be prepared and installed next, after which a strip of walnut will be used to cover the the outboard edge of the chainwales.

 

1635160551_624AssemblyMoreDeadeyes.thumb.jpg.f7a1a3c61bf4bff288fa6ce42ad98714.jpg

1185155593_625BlackenChainplateAssemblies.thumb.jpg.a7cd0008551715dcddc01796099d787b.jpg

1497577799_626MarkShroudLocations.thumb.jpg.4d223caa5a3caccecd018722bd02c458.jpg

740740821_627MarkShroudLocations.thumb.jpg.d8d7f462d54a25374b03bff1dd85adde.jpg

92285002_628FormandNailFirstChainplates.thumb.jpg.5b6bd05833fa943c52e7c957f0e828b5.jpg632487156_629FirstCoupleofChainplates.thumb.jpg.2000e3bed77f541d6dd072031afa4375.jpg

Edited by DARIVS ARCHITECTVS

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Port side chainplates are complete for the foremast shrouds. Note that the dog bone piece of each chainplate has to be resized so that the anchoring part at the bottom rests on the wale. Small round jawed need nose pliers are used to reform some of the dog bones to make them shorter as necessary. The loose chainplates that appear out of aligniment at this point will pull taut once the shrouds are installed. That way each chainplate will be aligned perfectly with the axis of each shroud respectively. It was tricky relocating the chainplates and chainwales such that nothing will interfere with the line of sight of any of the guns. However, relocating the chainwales is a more accurate feature for many ships of the early 1600's. Mantua's La Couronne is built this way, but Corel's is not. I prefer the Corel stern design over Mantua's because the height is more realistic and not derived from an artist's woodcut or painting, which often tends to romanticize the sheer curvature and stern gallery height to an impractical extreme.

 

890799044_631PortSideForemastChainplates.thumb.jpg.bf43841624615cf63da49d4c0f81b4d4.jpg

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In preparation for installing the main mast shrouds, the main mast was pinned and glued into place. The plumb bob jig was used to make sure it is lined up with the foremast, vertical but with about 3-4 degrees rear rake angle. More nailheads were painted onto the tops, topmast cheeks and topgallant cheeks. After the glue for the mast started to get firm, the mast cover was let slip down the mast and glued to the deck. The mast cover is what covers the mast wedges that anchor into position in the upper deck.

 

90387087_632GlueMainMastinPlace.thumb.jpg.f766c3d52e456592670951de57c14d37.jpg

Main mast top1342924463_644PaintMainTopNailheads.thumb.jpg.62400b7da0aac2d94af4a0bdf58ab14f.jpg

Main topmast top1932655503_645PaintMainTopmastTopNailheads.thumb.jpg.43be29ccafd9ab5a666d59c6266ef1f1.jpg

Main topmast cheeks994152936_646PaintMainTopmastCheekNailheads.thumb.jpg.ac21ea29ab98c43a36770fe3818e5b31.jpg

Mizzenmast top976305822_647PaintMizzenTopNailheads.thumb.jpg.d9f4143284768c04dade647eb76934d4.jpg

Mizzen topmast cheeks1226350871_648PaintMizzenTopmastCheekNailheads.thumb.jpg.79f08b089f0e156223eeba27c40d7121.jpg

Foremast top1908178558_649PaintForemastTopNailheads.thumb.jpg.55651dce4f20f6ce0c93e12de6bec776.jpg

Fore topmast top and cheeks2105753905_650PaintForeTopmastTopandCheekNailheads.thumb.jpg.356f340b7d5aa82ff819fd81c93392c7.jpg

Main mast wedge cover at the base of the base of the mast on upper deck2134970427_651GlueMainmastCoatingAroundMasttoDeck.thumb.jpg.d26795907eadad2b0f9039d958bc9c55.jpg

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