Jump to content
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS

La Couronne 1636 by DARIVS ARCHITECTVS - Corel - Scale 1:100 - First wooden ship build by Kurt Suleski

Recommended Posts

The chainplates for the main mast on the starboard side were assembled and installed today. I can't complete the ones on the port side until some parts come in from Modeler's Expo. First, the locations of the shroud lines need to be determined. They need to be placed such that they don't block any of the cannons. A line tied to the mast top is used to mark the line locations on the edge of the chainwale. The line is laid over each mark on the chainwale to locate and mark where the chainplates will attach to the hull. It's important that the chainplates run parallel to the shrouds when the hull is viewed straight from the side.

The process of nailing the chainplates to the hull is simple, even though the parts are small. Each individual chainplate assembly is adjust to the correct length for each place on the hull by shortening the dogbone link to the required size, siuch that the upper nail position is on the wale on the hull. The upper nail is held with a small needle nose pliers, the nail inserted into the hole in the backing link of the chainplate, and hammered into the wale with a tack hammer. The nail head was set using the end of a needle file tang using the tack hammer. The angle of the chainplate is checked to see if it is parallel to the shroud line, then the second (bottom) nail is hammered and set into place. When all the chainplates have been nailed in place, a 2m x 2mm strip of walnut wood is glued to the outboard edge of the chainwale. CA glue was applied near the edges and at one spot in the center of the chainwale, and PVA glue is applied along the remaining areas of the edge. When the wood is pressed into place, the CA glue binds immediately and holds the piece in place while the PVA glue dries. It's faster that holding the piece in place for 20 minutes waiting for it to hold. A small detail brush is used to paint the chainplates black to cover brass that was exposed by handling and shaping the chainplate parts.

The mizzen mast was glued into position on the ship. A nail with the head cut off was glued into a hole in the base of the mast. The mast was test fit, lined up, then the mast head was tapped with a track hammer, such that the nail in the mast bottom pierced the deck below. The mast was then pull back out, glue applied, and glued into place. The coat was the slid down and glued to the bridge deck.

 

1162013589_652MarkShroudLinePositionsonChainwaleUsingLine.thumb.jpg.c4438f6beb4576eea9881f18c25958a4.jpg

1886410745_653MarkChainplateLocatonsUsingLine.thumb.jpg.36e24665308cad5ad8532dc49de3a91c.jpg

1763284409_654CutNotchesforChainplates.thumb.jpg.3fd502dcb5d4dd659d9279cb310158a5.jpg

1404316559_655CustomizeLengthsofChainplates.thumb.jpg.622252ee9528f81fe23ee529293807fd.jpg

917953106_656CheckFitofChainplate.thumb.jpg.3a0926465425ad0841446d93590b3b62.jpg

701074118_657TackHammerinDirstNail.thumb.jpg.280c73b650a56faf884f5956724bc904.jpg

84259665_658SetFirstNail.thumb.jpg.da4789f7e874e2408ee131e432f53915.jpg

1984796564_659FormChainplateOverWaleUsingFileandTackhammer.thumb.jpg.0748389b9360786fb3d064d73ffea7f9.jpg

375982396_660ChainplateFormedOverWale.thumb.jpg.155ec289d122a9098314b34832ff624b.jpg

130994281_661HammerinSecondNailandSet.thumb.jpg.7c8b88896c809e7450915d138011c5ca.jpg

217053187_662MainmastChainplatesCompletedonStbdSide.thumb.jpg.45e09279caac32fbd0e1807962783c0c.jpg

2146641156_663PutPVAandCAGlueonEdgeofChainwale.thumb.jpg.b369b136406218bd1847e5fc16cabf3e.jpg

1866017681_664TrimPieceGluedOveChainplates.thumb.jpg.30970d1250c459e2c8682f7eece1dec0.jpg

771713450_665TouchUpChainplateswithBlackPaint.thumb.jpg.63236122a6e42709f70273f08c6f6742.jpg

113409253_666GlueNailIntoBaseofMizzenmast.thumb.jpg.c611bb0eec28c2a2c8bc86a1839df7f6.jpg

1144764120_667MizzenmastandMastCoatGluedOntoDeck.thumb.jpg.5b4bddf3cb8d21843b68214d775e2fd6.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A correction was made.  I installed 9 chainplates on each side for the foremast, when there should be 8.  So, I removed the rearmost ones and patched the holes in the chainwales.  Oops....

 

 

CORRECTION AGAIN 4/2/20:  I put the chainplates back a bit later, so there are 9 on each side.   The backstays will not have their tackles on the channels, but attached to the hull on the wale above the channels.

12572721_668Correction-RemovedRearmostForemastChainplate.thumb.jpg.e5a89c852fd885cc7ef02e8b6b5eecd1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Installation of many blocks in preparation for rigging was done in various parts of the ship. Blocks which are part of the tackles which haul the main course yards in a downward direction were attached to the deck on front of each mast. For all blocks, the eyelets were attached to the stropping of each block. The ends of the stropping line for each block was held to the block by using black thread to seize the ends, one end of which passed through the eyelet first. The seizing was secured with CA glue. The shanks of the eyelets were then glued into holes the deck. Blocks and eyelets which secure the port and starboard hoist tackles when they are stored were installed in the waist of the upper deck. Cleats were attached to the forecastle deck directly behind the catheads. These will be used to secure the line which the cathead uses to hoist the anchors, port and starboard.

Since I plan of storing two anchors on each side of the ship on the forward channels, two timberheads were added aft of the forecastle. for tying off the lines for the tackles used to maneuver the anchors into the rear positions. This arrangement will be more evident later when the anchors are installed. Eyelets with blocks having hooks attached were installed on the forward channels for anchor handling tackles for the anchors. stored in the forward positions.

The fiddle blocks for the tackles of the fore topmast backstay and the two main topmast forestays on each side were prepared. The bitter ends of the stropping line were glued together with a small amount of CA glue. Then an elongated hole was drilled onto the top of the block. The ends of the stropping line are inserted and glued into this hole, such that the stropping line forms a loose loop above the block. The loop is then inverted, being folded over the block and the line is glued to the sides of the block. The excess loop, now at the bottom of the block, will be used to form and eye. Each lower fiddle block had an eye formed in the stropping line, formed with a seize at the bottom of the block. To this eye, a wire hook is attached, using needle nosed pliers to close the loop at the top of the hook. The hooks were made from blackened wire using a round nosed pliers and regular flat jawed needle nosed pliers. The upper fiddle blocks for the backstay tackles will be rigged later when the backstays are installed.

 

1131599294_670StroppingBlocks.thumb.jpg.1e06438856ce4af1e0184c32db59fe83.jpg

162945866_671SeizingtoFormEyeonBlock.thumb.jpg.7f7b2af959d4462be7269fe3d388e2dd.jpg

1845423279_672FixBlocktoDeckinFrontofForemast.thumb.jpg.1d6a26ee856d1d5f0445cf3b5f019e6b.jpg

840945728_674FixBlocktoDeckinFrontofMainmast.thumb.jpg.7e7ed001b01baad8a24b42378aa1bcd7.jpg

1965091412_674FixBlocktoDeckinFrontofMizzenmast.thumb.jpg.5d73d842fb738c2233627b17ecf6c310.jpg

969865768_675BlocksandEyesforPortStbdHoistLinestoDeck.thumb.jpg.16cf398668ffc646e42cbf267f55607c.jpg

153196861_676AttachCleatstoForecastleDeckforCatheads.thumb.jpg.70448fb691b103eaf6873cad4a8a7343.jpg

1822348204_677InstallTimberheadsBehindForecastleforAnchorHandlingLines.thumb.jpg.b5909b4fa48e5b09fe6c82ce339c990e.jpg

82253572_678InstallBlockonForeChannelsforPortAnchorHandlingHoists.thumb.jpg.966a9b57ab4aaba1b0d8bf6663ae2a52.jpg

1463693175_679InstallBlockonForeChannelsforStbdAnchorHandlingHoist.thumb.jpg.6fb7b49f3db6677e9fe88d1873d8f2e0.jpg

1383192758_680StropFiddleBlocksforBackstayTackles.thumb.jpg.f1a40d3a6dc2367768ad02e595c535a5.jpg

1316637676_681FinishedLowerFiddleBlocksforForeandMainBackstayTackles.thumb.jpg.d07738bfc354edf4f45bddb06bbec197.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a panic session when I confused "cable laid (left hand laid)" and "hawser laid (right hand laid)" with the terms "cable" and "rope". Alexey at Donimoff's Workshop was kind enough to educate me. I thought his bit of wisdom was worth passing on to others:

In few words: rope is made from yarns, cable is made from ropes. Ropes are always opposite lay to source yarns. Cables are always opposite lay to source ropes.
I use fabric yarns which is already right lay. So my ropes are left lay. Then I put these ropes to another machine and make cables. So my cables are always right lay.
In meanwhile it doesn’t matter which lay to use on a model. This is a model.
In a real world they may produce as right lay ropes and as left making then left or right cables.

Alexey

He provided rope and cables to me for La Couronne. His cables are right hand laid and his ropes are left hand laid, all originating from the yarns he uses which are right hand laid. This created a bit of confusion for me when referencing the illustration in RC Anderson, in which showed the difference between cable laid and hawser laid ropes.

Thanks Alexey !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I decided to push ahead using the right hand laid cables that Alexey provided. Maybe I'll make left hand laid shroud lines on the next ship.

A lot of work has been done recently getting the shroud rigging off to a start. I made a deadeye spacing tool for later use from a couple paperclips and two deadeyes. Shroud lines were cut and formed into pairs. A piece of wood held in a bench vise made tying the seizes easier. The shrouds are 1.0mm right hand laid cable provided by Alexey at Dominoff's Workshop. The shroud pairs and seizes were placed on the masthead and the seizing lines cinched tight, starting on the starboard side and alternating from one side to the other, forward-most shroud pair to to after-most shroud pair. Room was left beneath the first pair of shrouds to allow the top to be glued into place. The last single pair of shrouds were actually spliced together using small pliers, needles, and very steady hands. The needle made a good miniature marlin spike. No one else will ever see this tiny splicing, but I know it is there. 

After studying how to lash deadeyes, work began. The shroud is glued to one side of the upper deadeye to make tying easier. A seize of the overlapping shroud line is made at the top of the deadeye, the seizes are added farther up. All the seizes that hold the shroud line above the deadeye were tied with whip knots. Small individual alligator clips are used to hold the line in various places for each seize. After some practice, you learn a method for doing them without fumbling around too much. Tan colored 0.25mm line was used to make the lashings. Now the spacer tool is removed.

Starting with a stopper knot at the end, the line is fed through the deadeyes. After the deadeyes, it is half hitched, then wrapped four turns around the shroud standing part and bitter end. I passed the end of line between the shroud cords with a needle to prevent if from unwinding as the final seize was made at near the end of the lashing at the top of the rig. After a long day, four pairs of shrouds were completed.  

 

774922753_683MakingaDeadeyeTool.thumb.jpg.5800f3d37df006bb7d688bc27ae705b2.jpg

1801445616_684DeadeyeTool.thumb.jpg.53bab60c38c754a1294ed8496f9c9176.jpg

1243295080_685SeizeFirstPairofShrounds.thumb.jpg.057fecb9223a55d5bfb784286203cd9c.jpg

1015333882_686FirstPairofShrouds.thumb.jpg.3fe3fe2d6a440c107366f8e704458043.jpg

370882913_687HangShroudPaironMasthead.thumb.jpg.3037c0777214b3529f9879adf82863fd.jpg

1449157560_688TightenSeizingAgainstMast.thumb.jpg.e02f01c9e94c345accbf446e79f53c43.jpg115364297_689InstallShroudPairs.thumb.jpg.6657c62668b544d608e5fd19f151b1cb.jpg

2011111028_690PreparetoCut-SpliceLast(Odd)Shroud.thumb.jpg.3d848fbd2e3e30f56fea96e0dea522ba.jpg

1479127744_691CutSpliceComplete.thumb.jpg.b99757327e26f5a988ada283fff88c4a.jpg

1516630563_694GlueShroudAroundDeadeye.thumb.jpg.817798699ee7d34d5c6fe338f4a55d6a.jpg

1996224449_695SeizingAboveDeadeye.thumb.jpg.accf05f2c2c9de6b6897ec29c6f2cde2.jpg

1724869879_696TwoSeizingsAboveDeadeye.thumb.jpg.e36446bc9d7df6b268ed2e4245417c70.jpg

22942217_697AttachToptoCrosstrees.thumb.jpg.534c05ec81b74b890c73ad4279d2a96f.jpg

1678635709_698TopInstalled.thumb.jpg.e0803cded68f21a0d1c40881ace34b3d.jpg

315903180_699BeginLashingDeadeyesPortSide.thumb.jpg.262126214802cf26e1ee43a5906ab395.jpg

46206532_700SeizeShroudLine.thumb.jpg.1b92097d97e528d051d4c8fdeb92d68d.jpg

99086217_701ProgressonPortSide.thumb.jpg.46008fa5e713eef756d5e10e6e39865e.jpg

1738542237_702DeadeyeLashingDetail.thumb.jpg.79b53d9ac57635276b790d16a87dca5c.jpg

1401453235_703ProgressSoFar.thumb.jpg.39809e00b1965300e35ac1ea0c2a45da.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Beautiful work. Rigging can be very tiresome and dragging, especially shrouds and ratlines. You work for hours, days and often have little overall to show for it, but it becomes worth it when it is all done. Rigging is one of those elements that an individual thread does little, but the overall picture becomes extraordinary.

 

Hope you and yours are well and stay that way. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, EJ_L said:

Beautiful work. Rigging can be very tiresome and dragging, especially shrouds and ratlines. You work for hours, days and often have little overall to show for it, but it becomes worth it when it is all done. Rigging is one of those elements that an individual thread does little, but the overall picture becomes extraordinary.

 

Hope you and yours are well and stay that way. :)

The rigging goes slow, but anything that's worth it is like that.  I'm not going to attach the backstays to the channels, bit rather tie the blocks to eyes attached to the hull.  I noted that there is no room behind the masthead for the halyards to travel.  Those lines will have to travel outboard of the last shroudlines on their way down to the knightheads.  Imagine how difficult added sails and sheet/clew/buntlines will be on this small model.  I'm not sure if there are enough belaying pins for all these lines.

 

We're all still healthy here in Minnesota.  The virus hasn't reached the levels that it has in California, and everyone out here has been politely following rules of 6' distance between people while in public, and working and remaining at home as much as possible.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More work on La Couronne today.  The parts to make the chainplates still haven come in from two separate suppliers, so I stopped waiting and scratch built my own from wire and thin brass sheet just to finish the remaining unfinished chainplates on the mainmast on the starboard side.  The wire was 0.32mm (20g) blackened copper and the brass sheet which was 0.254mm (0.010") thick and matched pretty closely to the other previously used chainplate parts.  The chainplates were painted black and nailed to the wale on the hull.  The chainplates for the mizzenmast will be done later.  As building progresses, there is more reliance on scratch building and less on kit parts in many areas.

 

More pairs of shrouds for the mainmast were prepared with seizings.  The last odd pair will be cutspliced and installed later, just like the last pair on the foremast.  Then the rest of the deadeyes will be rigged on the mainmast.  I bought some 0.25mm dark brown thread for the ratlines.  Since the shrouds are black,the dark brown will offer a bit of contrast in color without standing out too much.  

 

A couple more shrouds and deadeye were  rigged on the mainmast, starboard side.  The pictures below show the progression on how the deadeyes were rigged with a lanyard and the line wrapped and seized.  The shrouds are right hand (hawser) laid, so the bitter end of the shroud will always be to the left of the standing part when finished being rigged.  The shroud is glued to the deadeye first on one side while under tension, then the rigging tool is disconnected from the lower deadeye and the shroud glued to the other side of the deadeye.  The bitter end of the shroud will always cross over the standing part when viewed from outboard.  The shroud line is seized at the top of the deadeye before the tool can be reconnected to the lower deadeye, or else the tension will tear the shroud off the upper deadeye on the left side.  The next step is to apply two seizings to the shroud above the deadeye, secure them with a small bit of CA glue and trim the ends off.  Small alligator clips were used to hold thread above and blow the seize location to allow seizings to be wrapped, and line to be held in place so line wouldn't go slack or seizing wraps to cross over one another.  Once you find a pattern for applying the alligator clips to the loop above, the bitter end below, and often directly onto the wraps to prevent them from going slack as you pass the line around the shroud using pliers and fat fingers, it will get easy.  Making small seizes will become a practiced art.  The upper deadeye is now finished.

 

Now for the lanyard.  About 25cm of tan line for the lanyard was prepared by tying a stopper knot on one end.  The other end of the lanyard was passed through the right lower hole in the upper deadeye from the rear side, with a bit of CA glue to secure the knot so it can't be pulled through the hole under tension  The line was passed through the upper and lower deadeyes in the proper sequence, then passed between the shroud line and the top of the upper deadeye from the rear using a needle.  The line was then was passed around to the left and behind the upper deadeye, under the standing part of lanyard to form a bight,  then looped aorund the shroud lines, circling upwards, then passing through the shroud lines from the rear, when the excess is trimmed off at the front of the shroud lines.  Sometimes a bit of CA glue was added to the wraps to hold them in place.  CA was also used sparingly on seizings before trimming the ends.  Otherwise, they could unravel if the had to be re-positioned on the shroud.  A simple overhand knot of black thread combined with a bit of CA holds the end of the lanyard after it is passed between the shroud passes and trimmed off.  The cut end of the lanyard is disguised by coloring it black with a black Sharpy pen.

 

73015484_709CompletedPortMainChainplates.thumb.jpg.829d4ee834b7a59567c571018b625bd0.jpg

949924739_710ApplyGluetoSideofDeadeyeWhereShroudEndGoes.thumb.jpg.f520436a4ff0a7328cd0090166046a0e.jpg

141774595_711WrapandGlueBitterendofShroundtoDeadeye.thumb.jpg.0f5a40422bf6a57cb2e142a27a5f5a8c.jpg

139285874_712ApplyGluetoStandingPartSideDeadeye.thumb.jpg.c1e388209c90c4b23d5fd97c83685534.jpg

135454685_713ShroudGluedtoDeadeye.thumb.jpg.fff7221adb859a34aaa610889802a7c1.jpg

1019884790_714SeizeShroudatTopofDeadeye.thumb.jpg.e18d4daa10a33397a23103b635a49649.jpg

1993418464_715UpperSeizingonShroud.thumb.jpg.f6125a9d7d37a56b572fd81c811ca58d.jpg

1265641950_716UpperSeizingTightened.thumb.jpg.cb55796cfd5fcada6b902aee80e78ca2.jpg

1881773259_717TrimExcessoffSeizingandShroud.thumb.jpg.292a3aee189813492f1d61ed74b950d7.jpg

191816556_718LashDeadeyes.thumb.jpg.aeb6066fa2e152274376c303bf4c5779.jpg

2111848772_719PassLineUnderLastPassofLashing.thumb.jpg.328d9b5cc3ba7c9c4d6da093f9548082.jpg

715148552_720WrapLashingAroundShroud.thumb.jpg.791d91261da8e985a10ceea389e96db6.jpg

472547571_721PassEndThruShroudandSeize.thumb.jpg.16a167bdccd724880a7e85697d4841f8.jpg

985234696_722TrimandColorEndofLashingBlack.thumb.jpg.9408f07430499a51c73d898163a49a2c.jpg

1161130763_723MakingMainCourseShroudPairs.thumb.jpg.3880c081487d3ccd810f888c9dc25c13.jpg

702733622_724ProgressSoFar.thumb.jpg.a863c1513dcf8b495804b1dfc77507be.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The shrouds for the mizzen mast were completed today. The little deadeye tool is a lifesaver. I had to break one of the port lids in order to install the mizzenmast chainplates on the starboard side, and re-glue it to its hinges once they were finished. Things are getting better with practice. The port side chainplates and deadeyes came out a bit better. All the seizes and lanyard wraps were faithfully replicated on the mizzenmast shrouds as well as the fore and mainmast shrouds, which is very difficult an a ship this small, 1:100 scale.

 

1957284849_729InstallingStbdMizzenChainplates.thumb.jpg.b2eeca010159469635c2bfcba8b3b0ad.jpg

1730706237_730StbdMizzenChainplates.thumb.jpg.016f32154c7e95ff2bce5aba158a1344.jpg

722787602_731PortMizzenChainplates.thumb.jpg.28b48821e65ecd107799334f78a6105c.jpg

155050517_732PreparingMizzenShrouds.thumb.jpg.3ce685d92f1124e2cb237e0878239967.jpg

680939983_733MakeDeadeyeToolforMizzenmast.thumb.jpg.2546c695603f97575b2ea9aab550f0b0.jpg

2103214095_734CompletePortMizzenDeadeyeandShrounds.thumb.jpg.82339a7ba767ca88c33af39cb90d1c9f.jpg

1627508894_735CompleteStbdMizzenDeadeyeandShrounds.thumb.jpg.62d976a3e9fe21a3b236f9ad6a1c68ca.jpg

436979165_736ProgressSoFar.thumb.jpg.09650c1e70cc2f759257cc45234967f3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Preparations for rigging the double top ropes were made according to the illustration in R.C. Anderson's The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1750. Top ropes are typically installed temporarily to allow lowering the topmasts for maintenance in port and raising them into position in the crosstrees. They are usually dismantled, leaving only the eyebolts in place. They are not often found on ship models. Sheaves were cut into the topmasts, and tiny laser etched eyelets were installed in the bottom of the caps. On each cap, one eyebolt and two eyebolts with single blocks hung by hooks were installed. I only had four Model Shipways 4mm blocks that had hooks, so I had to make two more for the mizzenmast using 3.5mm blocks and wire I obtained from the twist tie on the remains of a bag of sliced bread I found in the kitchen. I made toast from the bread and ate it, then went back to work. After stripping the paper off the twist tie, the wire was wrapped around each block, carefully twisted tight, and a hook was formed using round pliers and needle nose pliers. The wire was blued using bluing acid I keep around for bluing guns. A Dremel tool was used to drill tiny holed in the bottom of each block, and large holes to form the sheaves in the topmasts. I used a pencil to darken the wood where the sheaves are to make them look like iron. The eyelets were glued with CA into the holes in the caps, and the blocks hung from the appropriate eyelets.

In the Corel instructions, there are rope which are tied to the fore and main yardarms and crojack and lead to a tackle hooked to a deck eyebolt in front of each mast. I can't see any reason for a haul-down line to pull the yardarms down when gravity does such a great job of lowering them when you slack off the ties. So, the blocks which are hooked to the deck for these apparently useless lines will be used instead for the tackles of the top ropes for each mast.

 

376213809_737MakeForeTopmastTop-ropeSheavesandBlocks.thumb.jpg.4d9511cdb5dd1ac8f52501a0604a1c4f.jpg

1568945054_738MakeMainTopmastTop-ropeSheavesandBlocks.thumb.jpg.1662bc5055db6500e492fb032b475e1f.jpg

1910310038_739MakeMizzenTop-ropeBlocks.thumb.jpg.a46233e5d0ee3e64483ba7741d6becf9.jpg

1240789822_740MakeMizzenTopmastTop-ropeSheavesandBlocks.thumb.jpg.0625d27c856497a64d95977f0e0a5367.jpg

1243244610_741TopmastTop-rope.thumb.jpg.a282c629b25007572223ce8e00d4a23e.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More progress today.  After considering how the spritsail, topmast and topgallant shoud lower deadeyes were going to be located in their respective tops, it occurred to me that there was no room for them on the first rail because the second rail above that would interfere with them.  So, a dangerous and careful modification of them was performed with a Dremel tool and diamond burr bit.  The inner diameter of each top's upper rail was increased.  The mast assemblies above each top were removed, since they are not yet glued down, but the mizzen, main and foremast tops had to be worked on while on the masts.  After a couple hours, they were reshaped, and wood fibers were carefully filed away with a hand diamond file.  The freshly exposed wood was stained, and I breathed a sigh of relief, having dodged a bullet of potential irreversible damage to the tops.  Time for a break.

 

350361615_742ReshapingForeTopRail.thumb.jpg.2fcc985c5724e66da79d41965832bc20.jpg

920571220_743SpritsailTopRailReshaped.thumb.jpg.a93e2bd3e50f2fb7e1e8cefe994c3ff3.jpg

1584660942_744ForeTopRailReshaped.thumb.jpg.85515e6d5168c7cfefa1dfc08d818466.jpg

1810602100_745MizzenTopRailReshaped.thumb.jpg.2ff2942f476ae7cc536748eb912e9818.jpg

138972328_746ForeTopmastTopRailReshaped.thumb.jpg.565952f13f98123dde6334482beb1539.jpg

869335063_747MainTopmastTopRailReshaped.thumb.jpg.c015afc5dcc5ca17f0e21b784a781e54.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The lower stays were rigged today. The upper ends of each stay were eye-spliced, and each mouse was made from wraps of thread. The blocks on the other end of each stay were lashed with lanyards to their lower blocks. A tool for making ratlines was also made. It clamps onto the shrouds and maintained their separation, and keeps the ratlines level as you go. The pieces of wood have 300 grit sandpaper glued to the sides that contact the shrouds so it doesn't slip on the shrouds. Other model builders have used this type of tool with great success.

 

Tiny Eye Splice

1361503222_749SplicingEyeonMizzenStay.thumb.jpg.744c98435325403333117e3f4a80601e.jpgMizzenmast Stay.  Look at that tiny eye splice!995612695_750MizzenStayWithEyeandMouse.thumb.jpg.05ef5e76a2c2f4c0a0d1a150bfb61aa9.jpg

Mizzenmast Stay1274292306_751MizzenmastStayInstalled.thumb.jpg.ab3c6e87723a3994738be3fdc3a2f3c6.jpgForemast Stay

2050147541_752ForemastStayMouse.thumb.jpg.adddb8497296506c33eb0bc63ada3df0.jpg

1984698761_753ForemastStay.thumb.jpg.3cdc17c1f15688342af9b0b6ce9416ac.jpgMainmast Stay1467356352_754MainmastStayMouse.thumb.jpg.9e44bd50bb87e520bba91159b0c019e7.jpg

622905524_755MainmastStay.thumb.jpg.e844ec320b0fbb656b7a893ceb8c265c.jpgMizzenmast Stay

937381978_756MizzenmastStayMouse.thumb.jpg.04132f93201d548e72a71ed22224d805.jpg

1198264043_757MizzenmastStay.thumb.jpg.56a9d7aff9b951eab2354cbe69a574c0.jpgCool Ratline Tool

1334781382_748MadeaRatlinePositioningTool.thumb.jpg.42e96e8a33960f068b47ee3af615269b.jpgProgress so far...

1816736017_758ProgressSoFar.thumb.jpg.9364de276a20d04c82511828d008ad9c.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I began tying ratlines for the very first time today.  The first few passes at the bottom had some issues, but the work went faster with practice.  The foremast ratlines on the starboard were completed.  The ratline spacing jig worked very well keeping the ratlines properly spaced, at the proper horizontal angle, and prevented the shrouds from moving out of position.

 

1225655565_759BeginTyingRatlinesforForemast.thumb.jpg.e2cdf05dc1697fb25b1c5b775f2e891d.jpg

443785387_760OneSideDone.thumb.jpg.6fbe7e7a3ea7424e588dbfb5859e3954.jpg

1821551912_761Ratlines.thumb.jpg.bd853aefd0ba67319d27fd1fccf6ce8c.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're doing a fantastic job!

 

I personally like getting to the ratline tying stage. I can just zone out not have to think of anything but clove hitches. For me, it's like getting through a marathon. At the end of each session, my head feels fuzzy, but it's nice to see all the work when it's done.

 

A very inspirational build. I personally like Corel kits. Not the easiest to build, but I love the way they look.

 

Keep up the great work!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, catopower said:

You're doing a fantastic job!

 

I personally like getting to the ratline tying stage. I can just zone out not have to think of anything but clove hitches. For me, it's like getting through a marathon. At the end of each session, my head feels fuzzy, but it's nice to see all the work when it's done.

 

A very inspirational build. I personally like Corel kits. Not the easiest to build, but I love the way they look.

 

Keep up the great work!

Your said it Catopower!  I just finished another 6 hour session of ratline tying, and my head does feel fuzzy.  I need to rest my eyes.  

As for the Corel kits,  the instructions are minimal to nonexistent, the plans are pretty good, and the wood is very nice.  However, 1:100 scale is small and difficult to put all the details in that you want to.  The do have types of ships that other do not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ratlines for the lower masts are finished. A mixture of PVA and water was applied to the knots to help hold them in place. CA glue was applied to the first and last knot on each ratline. Some brass 0.062mm diameter pins were purchased and are starting to be formed around the 5mm lower deadeyes for the spritsail topmast. The brass will be blackened. At the bottom of the deadeyes will be hooks. Futtocks will be hooked to the bottom of the deadeye assemblies and the lower ends bolted to the sides of the bowsprit. Brass to simulate these will be formed form wire and blackened to appear as iron. There are plenty of directions to go in building the model from here. The upper stays and shrouds for the topmasts and topgallants are probably next after the shrouds on the spritsail topmast are done. The upper masts and spritsail topmast are still not yer glued together, and that will be done before more shrouds and stays are rigged.
 

1114854312_764ApplyPVAGluetoKnots.thumb.jpg.751e6d20b16f28a810236ad81bbc0fb8.jpg

800094088_765LowerRatlinesDone.thumb.jpg.fd74040b60f0debf2570386ea654dec1.jpg

2017346612_766BrassWireAroundSpritsailTopmastDeadeyes.thumb.jpg.80e79ebf3eac11ae9a2398bc92f94bd6.jpg

1505518746_767ProgressSoFar.thumb.jpg.64a3777a3958341a909cfcde5881ca5b.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those ratlines look great! That jig is indeed a great tool for helping keep the shrouds aligned and spacing even. I saw it years ago on other builds and implemented it myself on the past two. Will never go back to trying to eyeball them again. You are making excellent progress through the standing rigging and it only gets easier as you go up, less of it. Beautiful work as always!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, EJ_L said:

Those ratlines look great! That jig is indeed a great tool for helping keep the shrouds aligned and spacing even. I saw it years ago on other builds and implemented it myself on the past two. Will never go back to trying to eyeball them again. You are making excellent progress through the standing rigging and it only gets easier as you go up, less of it. Beautiful work as always!

I had to eyeball only the few rows near the top and at the bottom where the spacing tool interfered with the hull or a top.  I found that when tightening each clove hitch, you pull the thread away from the shroud straight toward you with a light tug while holding the shroud with needle pliers just above the knot, with the spacing tool just below the knot, then tug the line in a direction parallel with the ratline, in the direction you are working.  The knot is small and tight.  I tighten each knot as I go, and then slide them up or down on the shroud if they need straightening.  The spacing tool makes sure that the row is mostly in the correct angle, but properly spaced between rows, so few adjustments are necessary.  Every three rows, I check the height and location of the ratline to the channel, and compare that measurement to the ratline on the opposite side of the ship, so they line up.  Use of the spacing tool made these measurements usually come within 1mm from port to starboard, so adjustments are quite small to match the ratlines.  It's good to apply the thinned PVA glue to each row before making the next one, so none of your finished knots get loose.  It took me about 200 knots to get a system down.  The last rows of ratlines I did look a lot better than the first ones.  Here is the improved ratline spacing tool, with metal clips made from a large paperclip.  Make the thickness of the tool the distance you want between the ratlines.   In this case, the tool is 5.68mm tall.  There are strips of 300 grit sandpaper glued to the inside surfaces of the wood to grip the shrouds.775192935_768ImprovedRatlineSpacingTool.thumb.jpg.4d6b51557de19b7b6407d1a789e898c4.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The lower deadeyes for the spritsail topmast and the topmasts for fore, main and mizzen were prepared with blackened brass pins.  Loops will be formed at the bottom of these deadeyes to accept hooks of the futtock shrouds.  The round deadeyes were replaced with triangular ones, which fit the age of the ship better.  The lower deadeyes were completed for the spritsail topmast and installed in the rail of the top. 

 

624130299_769FashionLowerDeadeyesforTopmastTops.thumb.jpg.ecfed14435bbf9c6ad8591dc51919441.jpg

57217200_770InstalledLowerDeadeyesinSpritsailTopmastTop.thumb.jpg.b374686499dd7a547bdd482487d7046a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Work on the spritsail topmast continues. Metal futtock shrouds irons were fashioned from brass, blackened, then painted (my blackening keeps flaking off when the metal is shaped). The upper ends are hooked into the deadeye strops. The lower ends were fastened to the bowsprit by brass pins glued into holes made with a Dremel. Now that the lower deadeyes had support, shroud pairs were made and seized at the top with thin thread just like on the masts. Another deadeye spacing tool was made using two deadeyes, a paperclip, and some brass pins. The upper deadeyes were lashed with lanyards in the same manner as the other masts. Overhand knots with thin black thread were used to make seizes in three places for each shroud. One lashes the shroud end to its standing part at the top of the deadeye. The other two secure the end of the shroud to the standing part above the deadeye. The bitter end of the deadeye lanyard is wrapped twice around the shroud, then half-hitched, and the remainder was simply glued to the backside of the shroud, since the seizes for it would be 100 times larger than scale for this model. One can only go so small.
 

1607658619_771FuttockShroudIrons.thumb.jpg.05cd26d0ba3e3119ca69ff77efb09a09.jpg

993300090_772LashingDeadeyesWithSpacingTool.thumb.jpg.e75414ada1f52ad78d92ad827b85f980.jpg

1142039230_773SeizingShroudUsingGluedOverhandKnots.thumb.jpg.d535e5febed02f1b3bacbca48af0196a.jpg

1262576349_774CompletedSpritsailTopmastShrouds.thumb.jpg.e7acbd42bbf858964fa3359961f73c21.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...