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HMS Bounty Jolly Boat by JMaitri - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:25

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HMS Bounty Jolly Boat





Scale:  1:25

L:  415 mm /16-5/16”

H:  363 mm / 14-3/10”

W:  340 mm / 13-3/8”


Start Date:  27 April 2013


Because the keel frame was badly warped, I don’t have photos of the framing steps because I nearly scrapped the build.  The keel frame had about a 1/8” bow in its x axis and also a severe twist in its y axis (also about an 1/8”).  Although I soaked and then pressed the frame between two sheets of 3/8” glass for about 1 week, the bow and twist were less but still present.


Also, I originally bought the kit in order to learn/practice planking.  As you can see from the kit’s instructions, AL recommends a planking method that I haven’t seen described in the how-to-plank reading I’d done.  After seeing these instructions, went hmm, is this build worth it?


AL Instructions:









After giving it some thought, I decided what the heck, even though the frame is still has a bow and slight twist, surely my planking job can’t turn out any wilder than AL’s instructions.  An additional kit issue is that there really isn’t space in the keel frame build for cutting in a rabbet…  Also since I elected to not follow AL’s instructions, I needed to buy several extra lengths of planking—you’ll definitely not have enough planking if you choose to plank the frame using standard techniques!


To make the planking easier, I skipped several instruction steps (putting in decking, seat planks, and etc. in the boat’s interior) and gave the planking a go with no expectations.  The frames and etc. required considerable fairing—in part because of the keel warp and twist and in part due to the kit’s design.  While the stem is already narrows significantly, the garboard placement didn’t help.  You can see the garboard turning upward near the forward frame—no place aft of that frame to secure the garboard to.






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I was able to keep the planks pretty much to half their width at the bow; however, in the end I needed to use two port and starboard drop planks below the turn of the bilge.  The area that I didn’t anticipate plank crowding was on the lower part of the transom where it curves inward. 







After I finished the planking, I have the hull a good sanding, filled it in with some thinned filler, and then another finer sanding. 




I also prepped the interior for painting (another reason to leave the interior pieces out for now).  Because of the warping and twist in the keel frame, the decking frame and etc. were also very “out”—had to use filler for gaps between the deck frame and interior planks; also, had to fair the deck frame a lot so that the planks could lay. 





Another issue with the kit was the fit for the bulwarks (--the kit's Spanish name for the piece translated to bulwarks, though I'm not sure if that's the right nomenclature--its dark wood piece at the bow).  I needed to fair the stem down about ¾” before it rested on top of the frame where you see it sitting—not sure if that will later impact how the true keel & bowsprit fit and etc…will see. 


Whether or not I stopped the build due to the keel frame issues was touch and go.  Since I was able to work with the flaws, I decided to see how the rest of the build will go/turn out.


Given that it was my 1st go at planking, and in comparison to the kit’s instructions, I’m pleased with how the planking turned out.  I accomplished my objectives there:  to learn, which I did.  Not only did I learn technique, but also some basics in recognizing problems, too (some of which where mine and some were with the kit—for instance, the planks tend to lay “flat” between some frames, which I’m sure is due to kit’s frame spacing…it probably should have one more frame both forward and aft of the center frame).


I will likely build the rest of the kit as is.  Given the kit’s issues and etc., I can’t see spending a lot of time on detail or etc.—will save that for better builds—and will focus on technique and learning more as I go.

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Thanks Brian and David!  I'm sure my planking skills will get better with more practice (as long as I don't follow AL's instructions)--yep, given the kit's issues, it'll be interesting to see how she turns out and what crops up along the way...am thinking I'll run in to a few things because of the warping and twisting that are still there.  I have another AL kit (Swift) and same issue with its keel as well, so am not sure if I'll build the kit or just move onto something else.  But, 1st things 1st, I'll finish this one and the Corel Flattie that I'm also doing. :)

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5/5 -5/6


Shot the interior of the boat with a couple of light coats of primer, and then with a couple of light coats of medium gray paint. 






Next was installing the stern thwarts. The twist and warp of the keel impacted the thwarts fit; however, after making some adjustments, I was able to fit them into the stern. 




I then put down a thin coat of clear matte Min Wax on the lower section of the boat (except where the decking will go in next.  Once I have most of the interior work done on the boat, I’ll coat the remaining pieces.  Also, put on the keel—it’ll require some fiddling to get it looking decent. 




Although I have pointed out a lot of the kit’s shortcomings, I do want to say that I’m having fun with the build—learning a lot as I go, which was the point of my buying this kit in the 1st place!  :D

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5/7 – 5/8


Added the boat’s decking.  The 7 center deck pieces wouldn’t space out evenly (tried w/ and w/o using all 7 planks) and still look close to scale, so wound up scrunching those together.  The spacing for the 4 port and 4 starboard deck planks that run parallel to the center deck planking wasn’t an issue.  I added an extra strake—I painted some spare wood to match the other decking—to better flush out the decking.  Overall, I don’t think the deck planking looks too funky.  Given the spacing issues with center deck pieces, I thought a uniform look would work best. 




I then added the seats and the mast supports.  I decided to reverse the seat mast support because I thought it looked better (i.e., the instructions have the support on the seat’s underside).  I also changed the support fittings just a bit.  I added the nails—went for a spike look—to the brass mast loop to better support and hold the mast later when I install the standing rigging.  I also changed where the bands went as well—trying to get them around the wood supports, nails, and etc. was not working. 




I then put a light coat of clear matte Min Wax on the latest additions.  I didn't finish sand the wood in the boat's interior too much, as I wanted this to have sort of rough-hewn look--you can see some of that in this post's 2nd photo.  Overall, am happy with the way the boat's looking so far.  Will take a break on the Jolly for a couple of days and return to the Corel Flattie that I’m also building.

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WOW I cant believe those AL planking instructions. You should send them your pictures.

Nice job planking and painting, she's looking good.


Where was it now...., I think the AL Virginia gun boat that has striped and offset pictures in the instructions. I guess my old Swift instructions that are written aren't so bad.

Planking instructions

1) plank hull.


Russ was my planking instructor. :D

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Thanks fellas!  Yeah, I had serious doubts about the boat when I 1st read the planking instructions and then encountered the keel warping and twisting--the latest completed steps got me past (at least I think) the worst of those issues.  Best of all though, is I'm having fun and enjoying the journey--that's what building these is all about for me (even though a few profane words do cross my lips from time to time while having this fun! ;)  ).

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Your right about that, its all about the fun and I think too many miss the journey by looking ahead to the end of the road. Honestly if you hadn't mentioned the warped keel, I'd have never known. Even in my short time I've found nearly any problem can be fixed, if one is willing to take on the adventure.  


I recently read Bligh's 84 page account of the mutiny and trip to Timor. I found it online somewhere. Its a very interesting read if you haven't read it.

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Thanks, Dave! Spot about taking on the adventure, Keith--I definitely had serious doubts at the start of the build... I'll Google Bligh's journal, as I haven't read it. About all I know is that his post-mutiny navigation is considered by many as one of the great maritime feats (my only other knowledge comes from the Hollywood classic but methinks the accuracy of that flick may be a wee bit suspect). Currently am reading Shaw's "America's Victory"--a not bad page turner.

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Keith, thanks for the link-- most appreciated! Keith, your Jolly build is excellent, I especially like what you did with the map--awesome! Thanks, Rat Fink! I will give Bligh a read--should be a good one. I picked up a few odds and ends this weekend for going forward with the build, including some belay pins. I've been looking at MS Launch builds/instructions for ideas on where to eventually place the pins. Haven't fully decided that one yet. Kicking around a few others ideas on the build as well...

Edited by JMaitri
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  • 2 weeks later...

First time I have seen this build. I am wondering if AL should have suggested that the garboard plank not extend the entire length of the boat. The other builds I have seen that employ a garboard plank have it ending shy of both the stern and bow. This allows the other planks to lay flatter (no clinker effect) and less use of drop planks. But as you know, I am new so may have all my facts wrong lol.

I absolutely love the wood color, it is rich and warm and really draws the eye. Can't wait to see more.

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Thanks for your kind words and visiting the build, Robbyn!  You're spot on about the garboard plank; nope, AL didn't have that suggestion (if you have a chance, visit the 1st page of the log and check out AL's planking instructions...).  Although I tried to minimize the upward sweep of that plank when I was framing (no frame or etc. to hang in to prior to the stem), it still caused some squeeze.  However, given the interior planking of the boat, I could have come up with something different--lesson learned for me. 


Probably will be a spell before I get back to the build--sister's in town, so want to get some time in with her! :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Spent some time working on the neglected Jolly Boat while I'm waiting for some parts for the Flattie, along with a drill press that should be here tomorrow.


Installed the rubbing plank and last plank and cleaned up the transom.  Didn't shoot a lot of shots of these steps--not much to them really.








Here's what she's looking like after some cleaning up.  The "cleaning up" is why I asked about other good fillers in my Flattie log--some of the kit's warping problems required liberal use of filler.  Their was about a 1/8" gap between the stem post and the upper planks.  Between filler, the rubbing plank, and so forth, it's not noticeable now.  Also, can't really make out the dark tan paint on the inside of the last plank; hopefully it'll show better in later shots, as that's the boat's color above the waterline.  




Russ, I applied your hard solder tutorial to replace the kit chain plates.  Figured this build would be a good one start practicing making those.  Overall, it was much easier than I expected. Lots of room for improvement with my hard soldering techniques--wow, just a tiny touch of paste is needed to do these!  The wire I used was kind of funky--turned out it wasn't brass (store where I bought it gave me some bum scoop--oh well, I'm sure they thought it was brass) but some kind of brass-coated stuff--didn't blacken well at all.  So will order some real brass wire sometime this week from a supply house.






Did a number of other things on the boat, but will save those shots for later--will wait until that work is finished before I post the pics.


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The jolly boat looks good. Nice work.


As for soldering, the more you do it, the better you will be at doing it. I use just a small bit of the soldering paste. It will go a long way. For a first effort, your looks very good and a lot better than my first efforts.


Your blackening looks okay. I usually use a small brush to paint the blackener on and then I dunk it in water after a 10-15 seconds and blot it. Then I do another coat, dunk it and blot it, and so forth until I get the depth of color I want. This usually takes me some time, but I get the results I want.


One thing to remember is that I do not care a hoot for how long my modeling takes whereas most others want to get moving along. So, my techniques are definitely not for everyone.



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Thanks for stopping by and your kind words, Russ!


It took a few trys on the soldering before I got a feel for how much paste to use and etc. I made a few other fittings, as the kit supplied ones were out of scale. Indeed, your tutorial was very helpful, and I found I really enjoyed doing the soldering work.


I'll give your blackening technique a go when I do some blackening on the Flattie, as just soaking the parts wasn't very satisfactory. Nope, no big hurries here either--in the end, I want to be happy with the results of my work. These small boats have been great for learning and trying out different things to see what works and what doesn't--they aren't big, sexy ships but they've been fun and excellent teachers!

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Time for a nice update!


First the mast, bowsprit, and gaffs:


Learned a good lesson when doing sails:  Measure gaffs (or yards) off the sails and not the plans!  :) Had to re-do a couple of these when that lightbulb went off.  :P


James Bond lathe work:






Ditched the kit throats and made my own








Pic. below is a comparison between a throat from the kit & the ones I made:








Finish Work:





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That is good work. The finished spars look very good.  


My only question is about how you have connected the jaws to the spars. Are you sure that will hold? It looks like a butted joint. Is there anything besides the glue holding the pieces together?



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Next was the rudder--good lessons learned for going forward!


I ditched the brass bar from the kit & made my own tiller--will shorten when I install it into the rudder:










Hard soldered pintle pins:




Figured out the angles for the pintles & tiller; the new Proxxon drill press setup paid for itself!   :dancetl6:  I could not have done this drill work easily or accurately by hand! 








Finished work:





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Then came the oars--I tried out MinWax's poly-stain formula.  The color was nice but I didn't care for how it worked with the poly in it--won't use it again; just wouldn't look great on major wood pieces.  Went with red to add some color variation to the boat.












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