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Reale De France by 72Nova - FINISHED - Heller


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Thank you Kevin. Kirill I will not be using the 5th parral since I do not see it on the museum model, I have completed the portside rails, while not perfect they look fine.

Michael D.

 

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The parrels for this is a little tricky, the serving isn't bad, but there is an eye splice for the deadeye to pass through after wrapping around the ropes for the lifts before being taken around the mast. I ended up using glass beads and painting them. The main sail is furled and held into position by the temporary gaskets until dry, I manipulated the shape using a wet paper towel as to not soak the paper. Still have more fine tuning left to do, but looks fairly good.

 

Michael D.

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I’m glad that you posted these pictures of the sail, in process.  Now I can see what you were describing in another thread about their shape.  Would you say that the same shape works regardless of whatever type of sail you are trying to mimic - square, lateen, etc?

 

All of that just really looks fabulous!

Edited by Hubac's Historian

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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Dear Michael,

Very nice indeed!!!

Marc, which thread You ment, about sails making?

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In my SR log, I asked Micheal to post links to pics of his 1765 Victory build.  It was there that I first noticed his sail furling technique and asked him to describe it.  Between Michael and Blue Ensign’s methods, I should eventually arrive at a dynamite suite of sails! 

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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👍👍👍!!!

"Blue Ensign " is the best of the best!!! I KEEPÖ

And now Michael  is coming!

:)))

Michael,

Please give "step - by step" insttuction how did You manage you sais ?

If possible of couse..

Thank You!!!

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Frank I used gift tissue wrapping  paper. Marc yes I cut the same shape for both. I followed Maurice's build of the Le Superbe when Pete Colemen's Victory was up and running, in fact he helped me out A LOT!! when I was back dating Victory. Kirill I hoping the pictures and my brief explanation would help, first cut to a reduced shape, install bolt rope about 1/8" from edge and pencil in the stitching then apply thinned PVA glue to sail, I never wait until it's dry before I start painting and used just the 2 colors shown in the picture, tamiya desert yellow and white, first a thin wash of yellow and let dry followed by another thin wash of desert yellow and white..tinting as you go to suit your eye and let dry, as you can see the paper gets pretty soaked but dries out quick, lastly a thin wash of white, if I were doing full sails I'd wait and pencil n the stitching prior to the white wash so they are not so pronounced. The trick is to not soak the paper, I just dab a small area with a wet paper towel as I go, loosely rolling it up as I go, tighter on the ends and flip it over about half way and bunch it up towards the yard with fingers and let that setup a bit, I do this so it is not so flat on one side. Turn it back over and finish rolling up, the gaskets help with the final shape, any sharp creases you can address by wetting the area and using a suitable tool, wooden stick works good to relax the crease. Once you get going you'll get a good feel for what you need to do, hope the helps?

 

Michael D.

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Good day Michael,

Thank You very much for detailed explanations !

Will save it for future use.

All the best! :)

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I made up the long tackle blocks for the main yard lifts and completed the rigging for them, I will need to make a section of the middle deck in this area to cover up the opening. The rigging for the parrels and stays are also completed, only about 70+ more sheed blocks to make. Up next is the shrouds and when completed I will belay what I have rigged so far.

Michael D.

 

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Мichael,

Looks very nice!!!

It is difficult to detect , your masts and spars and other natural color " wooden" elements  , made from wood? 

Or it is nicely painted plastic?

Looks like I missed you explanation...If You gave such in the past?

Great work !!!

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Thank you Kirill, all plastic sanded and painted, using my go too color desert yellow as a base and raw umber for the graining. Your wood effects look great also, curious as to what colors you use?.

 

 

Michael D.

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Good day,

Dear Michael ,

Thank You very mach! I see...clear which colors were used, but 

How Do You make and reach this grain effect? Which technics or tools were used to create grains on the primered surface?

It looks damn realistic!!! :))) when I see it on the foto ,it looks absolutely like warnished wood!!!

 

For my wood painting I used artistic acrylic paints - mix of some suitable colors:

1.base - grey or black primer from spray can

2.than PLAID barn wood No 936 sometimes could be used

3.than use sand color or caramel color PLAID No  452

4.that for making grain effect I use some mixed "earth" and "brown" colors or use strait PLAID "stain" No 817 - which is very nice for woodening some small parts like blocks and others details...

When I painted masts and spars I used metal brush to apply and distributing (when it was still wet)final mix of acrylic paints for making grain effect

post No14 in my build

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Edited by kirill4
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I like your technique and the use of the wire brush, your graining looks fantastic also. My process after removing all flash etc, is sanding the part with 80 grit sandpaper and a light sanding with 220 grit, I feel the deeper scratches allow the darker color to settle in, no primer just straight to tamiya desert yellow using a soft 1/4" wide brush, once dried I use an artist acrylic Raw Umber, for the benches etc I use it right out of tube with a stiffer bristled brush to achieve a darker appearance, for the masts I use the same desert yellow base, but apply the first coat of Raw Umber as a thin wash and once that dries I go back over it, but do not thin the paint to create the darker streaks, occasionally wiping any excess off with my fingers then I seal everything with dulcoat, even though I'm only using 2 colors it looks like more. Hope that helps Kirill?.

I started the shrouds and lanyards.

 

Michael D.

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Edited by safemaster
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OH!

Michael,

I see now! Thank You very much for detailed explanations!

All the best!

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Hello, the paint, shading, and rope work is convincing.  Sometimes I get tired of processing wood and your work shows there is an alternative.

 

Thank you for taking the time to post.

 

Have a good day.

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Michael,

Rigging looks too much bright compared to entire model colors/ appearance...at least on the foto looks like that...is there plan to stain them a little bit to natural hemp colors ?

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Could say , that PLAID folk arts No 817( stain) - briliant staff for making various aging / wood effect... even easily mixed with artist acrylic paints as welll... works everywhere!!! :)))

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Thank you Rich, I try to keep things simple. Kirill it must be the flash, I noticed the smaller lines do look brighter in the photos, but it's not that bright in person, I'm using Amati natural rigging line.

 

Michael D.

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I ordered a bottle of that Plaid folk arts 817, looks promising and will try it out on the Vasa, thanks for that tip Kirill👍.  Well It's out of stock, actually I think it's discontinued and I inquired about it on another website, awaiting a response, but looks like a no go.

Michael D.

Edited by safemaster
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Thank you as always for your kind comments Maurice. The Starboard shrouds and lanyards are complete with the exception of tying them off, I started the rigging at the mast head for the bunt line.

 

Michael D.

 

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One point of curiosity about this model, and this type of ship, in general;  every Reale model I’ve looked at has shrouds, but no ratlines.  Even the prototype in the Musee de la Marine is without ratlines.  Why is that?

Edited by Hubac's Historian

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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MARC,

Why need ratlines?

As I know, Shrouds here need to be fast detachable and fitted back depend on  situation with wind and operatiin with sails...

ratlines make trouble with that...🤔

 

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