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John Gummersall

King Of The Mississippi by JGummersall - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:80

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Posted (edited)

I am a relatively new modeler and plan to take on the King Of The Mississippi.   Main reason I am attempting this is due to the vast number of build logs on MSW.    I have studied them all and have been intrigued by some of the ingenuity and customization that has been done by the various shipbuilders.    Even the logs have have not been completed were invaluable showing various stages of the builds.    Besides that,,,, the King Of The Mississippi just looks like a cool model.

The version of "the King" I have is 2017..  Maybe some of the issues that earlier shipbuilders encountered have been corrected by Artesania....   But I guess that is probably too much to wish for,,

 

So here we go...

 

Note the date of 2017Box_Cover.thumb.jpg.708b61a6ec995e42deb3f85b28fe15a4.jpg

 

Box contains three shrink wrapped items

 

Box_Contents.thumb.jpg.c4caf48ebd8936fd767c55ec7742ec89.jpg

 

 

First part of hull structure is pretty straight forward.  Parts fit nicely with only a little sanding to make the bulkheads seat better.

The instructions call to glue in the upper stern board to the slanted portion of the false keel.   Note below that I did not do that at this time.   Turns out the slant in the slanted portion of the false keel does not match the slant in the bulkheads.  Thus later on when you install the bulkheads the upper stern board does not match the bulkheads.

 

Others have pointed out this issue and later had to "fiddle" to make the  upper stern board match the bulkheads.   Instead I decided to glue on the bulkheads and then make the upper stern board match the bulkheads

 

Note the upper stern board not installed.

Hull_Structure.thumb.jpg.a945fd20f40ac45e66735b6b91873f45.jpg

 

 

I do not have a good picture, but below shows the bulkheads installed and the upper stern board lined up with the slant in the bulkheads.    You have to insert a small piece of wood between the upper stern board and the slanted part of the false keep to take up the space, but this is  a much easier way to deal with this issue than gluing in the upper stern board before the bulkheads.   Ignore that extra piece of wood glued to the upper stern board...  Initially I thought the upper stern board was too long so I cut it down,,,, Mistake on my part.. No big deal as the mistake will not show once the hull has been planked

 

Hull_Top_View.thumb.jpg.2950b5a14c02af1f8e0d2e3c113dea32.jpg

 

On to planking the hull

Lay the first row of planking down the exact center of the hull and let this dry.   Make this a straight as possible as it is the base for all the other planks

Note the planks are paper thin and very easy to bend,,  Should not be a problem bending the wood.   No need to pre-heat or steam.

 

Since there is a bend and it does take some time for the wood glue to dry, I choose to lay about 5-6 planks (at a time) in the stern part and later (about 20 min) bend them over and glue them to the hull.   I could have used CA glue, but I am the world's worst CA glue'er and usually get it all over the model.   However I have since found the the CA gel works great and much more forgiving,,,

 

Hull_Easy_Bend.thumb.jpg.3ec58f40f1b1ed0809019407687acd5e.jpg

 

Hull_Stern_Boards_First.thumb.jpg.8b4d6be0b47ddd61bd94803b88a3afb9.jpg

 

 

Hull_Split_Boards1.thumb.jpg.a87aeabdb869550fb44d9fcc3c336545.jpg

 

One note,,,,, There are supposed to be 30 hull planks - 6 mm in width...  While there are 30 planks, they are only 5 mm in width.   As such there are not enough planks to have full planks on both the bottom and hull sides.   Since the hull planking on the bottom will never see the light of day on the completed model, that is where you want to have planks with joints.   Basically take some of the planks that extend beyond the bow (picture above) and butt them together to make some of the planking on the bottom of the hull.   In my case I ended up with three bottom planks that were made up of several smaller pieces.    The pieces butt together very well and you can hardly see the joint.  In theory you could do this on the side bulkheads but best to do this with the bottom hull planks that will never be seen.

 

In the end I used 18 planks to cover the bottom and have 12 full planks to cover both side bulkheads

Hull_Split_Boards2.thumb.jpg.05b11fead300dddb7198d2a861dfcffc.jpg

 

Side Planking,,,

 

P9_Hull_Planking_1.jpg.thumb.jpg.840da62771c28ba377583796ad03ec1a.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hull_Split_Boards1.jpg

Hull_Split_Boards2.jpg

Edited by John Gummersall
Remove duplicate pictures & spelling errors

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Posted (edited)

Hi John,

Good start and brave of you to start a build log. Now you have to hang on but feel no pressure🙂. I think it is a good idea as relative newcomer but with ambition to chose an object where there already are a couple of build logs and also some which are actually finished. There is a source of pictures and builders who can help you out when you get uncertain on how solve details.

 

I will grab a seat on the front row to watch your build. King of Mississippi is not an object I have considered building but your build may change my mindset.

 

Regards

 

Henrik

Edited by Henke
Bad spelling

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12 minutes ago, John Gummersall said:

Henrik

Welcome aboard... Glad to have you...  It has been awhile since my last update, as with everyone, there just is not enough hours in the day.   Lots of other things all grab our time..    But here we go..

 

In planking the side hulls the planks overlapped the bow... The idea was when it came time to put on the sternpost, the side planks would be trimmed to match up with the sternpost.

 

 

P12_CurvedBow_1.thumb.jpg.d7e00a84242e9364060929f0618d5536.jpg

At this point the entire hull is complete.  Earlier  I mentioned that there are not enough full planks to cover the entire hull, and I used some left over pieces to form three planks on the bottom.  In the end I had one full plank left over, so maybe one might consider only using pieces to from two planks.  If you look close at the bottom of the hull you can see the joints of a few of the planks.   They do blend together very well but best to still have them on the bottom of the hull where nobody will ever see them

 

P22_Hull_Bottom.thumb.jpg.db03fe9b5047b6f38fd2bb4f8d1dfe08.jpg

P23_Hull_Side.thumb.jpg.960326c7419f6777c8d4ddb01077aea6.jpg

At this point come the ugly part..  Other ship builders have mentioned that the sternpost does not match the curve of the bow.  It seem the curve is too sever to match the bottom of the hull that the top of the sternpost is too short to to go the top of the hull.   Lots of created ideas to get by this, but the one I choose was to cut off the bottom or the curve and add a section to the top of the sternpost.   It now matches up,,, but there are lines where the wood was spliced...   Maybe I will be able hid them when the hull in finished.

 

Bow before sternpost

 

P25_Bow_Original.thumb.jpg.1424c77e1c5ac9ae6c6b1c92e0d373b5.jpg

 

 

 

Bow after "adjusted" sternpost... Now just need to add the keel

 

P24_Bow_Piece.thumb.jpg.3bc5904be89e92a31d90a87a0d6f25fc.jpg

On to planking the first deck.

 

Before I start I wanted to mention a few tools that I feel really help.   Any experienced modeler already has these, but if you are a beginner like me, these will really help...

 

First is some sort of wood cutter.   I choose the Chopper III, but there are many out on the market.   Main reason for a wood cutter is that you will go crazy attempting to cut he planking strips on all three levels....all the same length...  A wood cutter make is very easy to cut hundreds of pieces of wood all the same length

 

Chopper_III.thumb.jpg.ea2db3b59427807c5ad5c29a4255c55b.jpg

 

I also like to have a really cheap paint (and I mean cheap,,, you would never actually use it to paint) to spread the glue.   Deck planking involves spreading a thin layer of glue on the deck and then attach the planks...  You can use your finger,,,, but a cheap brush to spread the glue is really nice.

 

I metric ruler is also a must....  The King has many pieces of wood that are very similar.   The instructions call out each one by size... 2x5mm, 1x4mm,

3x4mm etc,,,  Unless you have a metric ruler that shows mm,,,, you will have a hard time identifying the correct pieces of wood.   Even with the ruler, I just know I select the incorrect piece before I am done...   They are really similar

 

 

Brush_And_Ruler2.thumb.jpg.e2ffda2880fcd6926417ca3cf8ee797f.jpg

 

On to the decking,,,,

 

First deck is marked very 5mm... And the planks are 10mm long... Need to mark the deck or you planking will drift off.

 

P14_Deck_Markings.thumb.jpg.15dc470aa2c74619e4b9f7cf64e44041.jpg

 

Other builders have noted that the holes for the first room (boiler room) do not line properly when you later on add the boiler room.   At this point I adjusted the first hole moving it back about 2mm.   Not a good picture, but in the below image you can see in the 3rd full section from the bow a piece of wood was added to fill the hole and I moved the hole back.    The planking is partially covering the hole (at this point), but in then end you will not see the patch and the boiler room when added will line up with the holes.

 

The holes for the engine room are tight, but seem to line up without any adjustment.

 

P17_First_Deck_2.thumb.jpg.775b4368146074dca5f0fdfedb4d982b.jpg

Deck one complete - Note you do not see the adjusted holes for the engine room

 

Deck_1_Complete.thumb.jpg.077382d8e51499909839cb6f4c6be286.jpg

 

Engine room and Boiler rooms go together and easily planked....   

Note the temporary use of corner brace to get the correct right angle corner.  Just remove it when the glue sets up

 

I do have a question on the stable boxes and stable box covers... Instructions all for 2x5mm Walnut.... I see some 2x5mm wood,,,, but it does not seem to be walnut... On the other hand, it does not look like sapelia, ramin, or coral either....  It is probably just some lighter shade of walnut,,, but at this time I am pondering it...   Will give an update when I figure it out.


P19_Corner_Right_Angle.thumb.jpg.c5c9993a04d638b05c0747c59907330d.jpgDeck_1_Rooms_2_3.thumb.jpg.85398cdde96e7822ccd521a8769bc33d.jpgDeck_1_Room_1.thumb.jpg.c59347cae64a992b641d2a6b48bc2703.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Hull is complete and deck glued.   All pretty straight forward.

I will say (as others have) the attaching the stempost to the keel is a challenge.  The curve is not correct for the hull.  In my case I had to cut the stempost and use a piece of the keel to reshape it to match the hull.   If you look close you will see the joint in the stempost..  About the best I can do with my limited skill.

 

 

 

Also below is the bottom and side views

 

image.png.d5ab830f2074764594e732baa8e66048.png

 

Started working on the boiler room.  Only hitch here is the instruction call for the door frames to be 1x3x34 Sapelli.   Problem is the wall are 1x4.  Best to use the 1x4 Sapelli wood, but if you use the 1x3.. just make sure it line up with the outside of the doors,, and no one will ever notice

 

image.png.87a2b69d65effe67fbb93eaf3ec0d0c4.png

 

 

Engine room is the same story.  Use the 1x4 Sapelli. wood for the doors.  Below is the stained Engine Room....  I committed a beginners error,,,, I did not test out the stain on a sample piece of wood...  I used the same stain I used on other woods so did not think to sample... End result is stain that is way too dark (for my taste) and a little blotchy.   Not quite sure what I am going to do about it.   One option is to replank the Engine room - and all would be OK,,,, other option would be to go in complete opposite direction and paint the boat white....  Not sure I have seen a real life steamboat that was natural wood color,, most seem to be white... So that is an option I an considering,,,,

 

image.png.aa33a7fd7c2d5a5a100dcfcdeed013ee.png

 

image.png

image.png.ed929b560413ef70a2314e0e56af5866.png

 

 

image.png.150b7d2fd3b5be6349188c0894c4d0b9.png

 

image.png.46826b38bddd4313739846f4dbeb8947.png

 

 

At that point it was just a matter of using the template over the Sapelli to cut out the arch.   It takes some time, but I like the final result.

 

Next on to the WaveCatcher...

 

WaveCatcher is 1.5x5 Sapelli.   In order to bend it, I soaked it in water for about 5 min and then used a soldering iron to bend the wood to match the bow of the boat.   It was then bent around the bow and "rubber banded" until it was dry

 

image.png.30d0d06231ad86f3385602ac7a8834cb.png

 

image.png.862c447686c303a88d341df3b990dc38.png

 

image.png.847fe0409a1e6f415f9e0ffbe2c8ae6c.png

 

Edited by John Gummersall

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