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HMS DIANA by Peterhudson - Caldercraft - as per the kit

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Glad that plan was useful. Those tops look great. When I came to put the futtock shroud in I found that the extra height the planking added meant that I couldn't use the amati deadeye strops I bought for the purpose but thread knotted above and below the top has proved a neat and effective substitute.


I've taken some photos and I'll try and put up a post on my progress tomorrow on my log.


You going to zip past me at this rate :)

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With the various sections of the mast complete and a number of blocks fitted, I have moved onto the shrouds.  I haven't made a model this large before so it has been a bit of an adventure, however, once I settled my routine, they were comparatively straight forward.  I cross checked the various details with a book called 'Rigging Period Ship Models'  by Lennarth Peterson which I picked up in a second hand book shop; it shows in really straight forward diagrams all the  various configurations of the masts, spars, standing and working rigging and is a good complement to the kit plans. 


Blocks were attached to the 1.25 and 1mm lines in the normal way; treble seizing and then, having correctly aligned the block, washed with dilute PVA.   I attached the Burton pennants  - straightforward. 


I then began assembling.  I started with the mizzen as the kit supplied was missing the 1.25mm line which I had to reorder.  Forward starboard first, then alternate with the port shrouds.  I followed this routine:


a.I used the wire spacers to hold the blocks in place and to get the correct shroud  length, and thus tension, I looped the 
  whilst I tensioned the line and tied it off at the mast head



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Ahhh - tab on the keyboard activates send!  A garbled partially complete message!


The routine:


a.   I attach a deadeye to the line, seize and wash with dilute PVA - cut the line to an approximate length.

b.   I hold the deadeye in position with the 15mm wire; and place a second deadeye on a wire spacer on to the adjacent deadeye.  Loop the black line over the masthead and tension it around the second deadeye.  Don't pull too hard as it easy to unlodge the lower deadeye. 

c.   A dab of CA is applied, just enough to hold the line in place whilst removing the wire spacer.

d.   Seize the second deadeye and trim the shroud neatly. 

e.   Once the glue is dry, re-secure the deadeyes with the wire spacers and tie off the shroud at the masthead.  This creates the tension in the shroud. 

f.    Insert the lanyards and tie off. 


Looks okay.



111121 tensioning shrouds.jpg

111121. second block fitting.jpg

111121 block attaching.jpg

111121 Shroud progress.jpg

111121.first mainmast shrouds.jpg

shroud blocks.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Peter, just seeing your post now, hope this was an isolated incident.  This seems to me to be one of the most egregious design flaws on one of the earlier Caldercraft kits, having the joint of the brass wire directly where the tension from the chains is applied does not make sense.  Hope you haven't had any more failures, on my Snake build I put some spots of epoxy in the slot of the channel before attaching the shrouds to try and provide a little more structural integrity.  Merry Christmas!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry about the gap in reporting.  I have attached all the shrouds and begun the laborious task of tying all the ratlines...there are a lot. I used 0.25mm natural line which I stained in India Ink.  Each individual line was run through a beeswax block to add a little wax and eliminate line kinks, the wax also helped the knots (clove hitches) slide together by reducing friction.  I set each line at 6mm and used two methods to get the spacing correct.  One option was to use a couple of pieces of 6mm plank held onto the shrouds by pegs. This method did allow all the knots even in size and the line straight as I could rest the knots on the wood which gave a little substance to the operation but was slow(ish) - if not correctly tightened the pieces of wood force the knot down the shroud - I did  three lines and then washed them with dilute PVA, allow it to dry before starting the next group.  By alternating between the three sets of shrouds, I was able to keep tying as the glue dried.  I became reasonably efficient.    For the main mast shrouds I used a printed sheet cut to shape with a matrix of lines against which I could place my knots: reasonably efficient although you do have to be careful not to knock/misalign the paper. 


Do avoid my school boy error.  I set up a table in a word document with 6mm squares or so I thought. In fact my printed sheet came out 5mm by 6mm which I didn't notice until I was half way up the shroud...I had placed 30 odd lines at 5mm apart.  I left them as is and copied the spacing on the opposite side.  You cant notice the difference although it did mean a lot more knots.   


Nearly finished.     

ratline work.jpg

ratlines 2.jpg

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At last...I have finished the ratlines on the lower shrouds.  Far from perfect but, for my first attempt at doing ratlines on this scale, it is not too bad.  I will now replace several of the ratlines that are too slack which will also improve the appearance.  I have cut the futtock staves and attached them to the shrouds using a couple of clove hitches and a small slip knot which tucks out of the way at the back of the shrouds quite neatly.  Onwards and upwards to the futtock shroud deadeyes....slow progress here!   

completed shrouds.jpeg

futtock stave.jpeg


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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Peter, Your model of Diana is becoming a beautiful looking ship. I'm just starting out on the Diana voyage and your log has been very helpful in pointing out some of the pitfalls of this kit which I'm hoping to avoid. No doubt I'll create a few of my own too which I'll write up in my log.




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  • 1 month later...

Whow it has been two months since i last posted.  In this particular lockdown, I work all day in my home office which is also doubles up as my modelling room so, come the evening, after a day on Zoom etc, I tend to want to vacate the office not return to do modelling - progress has slowed!!  Still lockdown is nearly over so perhaps I can spend less time working in here during the day and more time modelling in the evening.  We will see. 


That said work on DIANA hasn't stopped.  When last I posted I had completed the lower shrouds and ratlines; I have now secured all the futtock shrouds and catharpins on all the masts.   Fiddly and required care tensioning the catharpins to ensure the shrouds were not distorted and pulled into towards the mast.  


I also used a little diluted black paint to cover any residual superglue which might have marked on the various pieces of rigging.  Looks okay! 

Futtock shrouds.JPG

futtock stave.jpeg


final lower shrouds.JPG

Futtock shrouds.JPG

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I have also cracked all the spars.  Fiddly, fairly straight forward but long winded.  The only area of note was the fitting of the stunsail booms. I struggled to get them level and to fit neatly with the mainspars largely because the end of the boom rested on lines securing the blocks to the spars - I couldn't get a neat fit to apply the glue.  so i made a little notch at the end of the boom to rest on top of the line which allowed the boom to be fixed - they wont be movable!


I found the metal fittings for the boom rings and brackets too clunky, so I replaced some with fittings made out of 0.25m styrene which looked more in proportion. 


I obtained some jewelry 0.5mm brass eyes which were good quality wire - not very bendy unlike the very soft wire provided in the kit.   The eyes were too large so I cut them down to size, made a new eye and blacked them before fitting. 


Here are a few snaps. 



foot rope stirrups. jpg.jpg



IMG_2545 (002).jpg

IMG_2546 (002).jpg

studding sail fitting 2.jpg

studding sail fitting. pg.jpg

stunsail boom in mainyard.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Progress continues and I have now secured the 5 major stays.  I spent some time 'worming' by hand which was strangely relaxing and achieved whilst watching/listening to online conference: there are advantages working at home!  I put the stays on early as I thought it would be awkward getting in and around the tops with the rest of the standing rigging in place and posed a risk of damage - I am not the most deft handed modeler on the market. The topmasts  and top gallant masts are not secured in the picture which is why they look wonky!  The upper standing rigging comes next. 

Worming the stays.JPEG

state of play 25 Mar.jpg


main mast stays.JPEG


mizzen stay secured.JPEG

mizzen stay.JPEG

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