HM Cutter Sherbourne by Edwardkenway - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 - First wooden build

[Edwardkenway]

As promised photos of the sample decking. My personal preference is sample  B . Any input welcome,  thanks. 

Edited June 15, 2019 by Edwardkenway

[tkay11]

B looks better. I use a soft lead pencil on one side only. On real ships the caulking was not precisely defined, being a little fuzzy here and there. I attach a picture of the renovated Brixham trawler Pilgrim:

 

Tony

[Edwardkenway]

Tony 

Yes, I prefer B.

It is interesting to note  that the treenailing in the deck of Pilgrim is barely visible, therefore it makes me think wether to bother doing it at all.

But then again I do like the look of it on a finished deck!! I will have some time out and think about it😀

Edited June 15, 2019 by Edwardkenway

[tkay11]

I do agree about the treenailing. In fact plank nailing on the hull is also only visible faintly. Look at a deck from a distance of 64 feet and you'd be pushed to see it at all, just as you would a foot away from a model that is 1/64th the size of the real one. On deck planking I use a wax of the same shade as the deck to fill the holes if I do it at all, and I don't do nailing of hull planking. To my mind (and I stress that this is just a personal view about my own practice) doing this just draws excessive attention to the nailing and therefore to the skills of the modeller rather than the overall impression of a ship -- but then this is against the general convention and most would disagree with me. You could argue that I just don't have the skills to do it properly!

 

Tony

[Henke]

I also vote for B and I agree with Tony's view on tree nailing. A tree nail as in Tony's picture above is probably 15-20 mm in diameter. In 1:64 scale that is 0.2-0.3 mm. As a comparison the diameter of a modelling pin is typically 0.5 mm. We modelers do tree nails in our decks because we know it should be there but if we did it in scale most of us, at least we who has passed the age of 40, would not see them without a looking glass. In my latest build I have just lightly indicated the deck tree trails with a sharp pencil (soft). My intention is not to offend any tree nail purists 🙂 just saying that tree nails which are flush  with the surface in most cases would barely be visible in 1.64 or 1:90 scale.

 

Regards

 

Henrik

[Edwardkenway]

Tony, Henrik 

The deck will be laid without treenailing,  then I have the option to do it later if I change my mind. 

Thanks for your opinions 

[Jörgen]

I like the tree nailing but I think it must be done with the same color (same wood) as the deck. just to keep the contrast on minimal level. I think that every small detail you can put in will add to the whole picture.

 

Best regards

Jörgen

Edited June 15, 2019 by Jörgen

[Edwardkenway]

Hi Jörgen, I will definitely give treenailing some thought  but for now I'm not going to do it 

Jon 

[Edwardkenway]

The decking is started. I must admit I did want to edge it as Tony did his but not enough skill plus lack of a compass or dividers left me pulling what is left of my hair out!!😤

[RussR]

For me the best way is to clamp several planks together and use a No. 2 pencil on the plank edges (one side only).  You don't want to over do it. Same for making T-Nails. 

I ve seen some models that looked like it had the measles.🙂 

[tkay11]

To do the edging it's useful to make cardboard templates until you have the hang of it. You can then use Pritt stick to glue them temporarily to the wood so you can cut it accurately. To remove the card just damp the top very slightly with water and then when dry sand the wood down to remove any traces of glue. Some people use rubber cement to do this but I find it more problematic to remove. I have reached the stage where I just tear off the card without water and scrape the residue off with my nails, then sand. That way you don't have to wait till the wood is dry before fitting.

 

This is a cheap and effective method to find the right cuts in a wide variety of situations. The card I use is stock card about 0.3mm thick. You can get 50 sheets of A4 at this size at https://papercutz.co.uk/a4-card-white-printer-and-crafts-220gsm-280micron

 

This costs only £5.32 and will last you a very long time. For larger projects you can also get larger sizes of card.

 

Tony

[Edwardkenway]

Thanks Russr.

Tony I will probably use that method on my next build as for now I have scribed the planks to the bulwark.

I kinda like it that way because it has grown on me with it being quite simple!!

Thanks 

[Edwardkenway]

Halfway through the Deck planking 

[tkay11]

I forgot to mention that the reason for buying white card is so you can print to it if you want after using a CAD or illustrator programme to create or copy parts. Ordinary card from cereal boxes etc is more than adequate just for experimenting.

 

Tony

[Edwardkenway]

Well fathers day, my girls came round, grandkids with them, got the usual chocolate but then they gave me a jewellers lens head set, going to be perfect for all the small work and rigging. 

Ok so finished planking the deck, just need to sand it. I have decided not to do treenailing as I have got a few wavy butt joint runs.

Fitted the wales and the gun wales, I think that what that strip between the gun ports are called?? Painted the wales before fitting and then again after sanding, I maybe will give another coat of paint.

Next time I'm starting to do all the deck fittings. We'll see if my new glasses help at all 🤓

 

[Edwardkenway]

I've just been pottering about with bits for the deck fittings.  The main thing is I can't decide which companion hatch to use. I've posted a few photos  of my options .

I was planning to  leave the hull natural wood but when put first coat varnish on  their were a few glue stains and no matter how much I sanded they were stubborn  so it ended up being painted white.

My father's day present from my daughter's helped a great deal with the small work ,so cant recommend  having magnifying lens enough.

[tkay11]

Of the choices you provide I'd go for the last one with the flat angled top.

 

Tony

[Edwardkenway]

What with the great weather here and life I've not had a lot ot time to go shipbuilding.  Tonight though I've got the watch alone as my other half has gone out "on the town"!

So fitted the cap rails, swivel gun posts and timberheads, these small parts had quite a bit of char on them and now I haven't got any skin left on the ends of my fingers.

Also sanded and varnished the deck,  I'm happy with it😊

As you may notice the hull between the wales is now painted,  this is because I can't used glue sensibly and got it all over the planking and once again daren't sand to much as it's only .5mm timber.

So the yellow and black Royal Naval colour scheme is press ganged into service.

It's a shame because I liked the natural wood look😥

Off to North Wales in a couple of days  for a week and a bit of mountain climbing (only Snowdon via a path) therefore Sherbourne is going to sit on a shelf for a while.

 

[Cabbie]

Looking very nice indeed Edward.

I am bit like you, I like the natural look, partly because i am a bit

of a chicken when it comes to painting, afraid i will make a hash of it.

Your painting makes her stand out a bit more.

Yes, the angled top companion hatch is a better look.

Enjoy the exercise.

Cheers Chris

[Edwardkenway]

Thanks Chris,  I had to paint her because I'm like a preschool kid with glue getting it everywhere but where it should be.

Thanks to all for likes and encouragement. 

All the best 

Jon

[Edwardkenway]

Hi everyone, not done a lot on Sherbourne for a bit so I  thought I'd have a couple of hours or so.

Ok I've tapered mast and topmast, wow how much dust???. For this I put together a really simple jig I'd seen somewhere on this forum,  Thank you to whoever posted it. Using my cordless drill and the jig I just sanded as it turned.

Finished putting the cannons together and started to blacken the PE components with Birchwood Casey Brass Black made some boarding steps and fitted them, fitted catheads, put rudder in place with my own take on a tiller based on an actual canal longboat tiller.Ta-dah she's been named and as the champagne bottle would have crushed her I drank it instead!

Well that's it for now, ta-ra til next time

Edited July 17, 2019 by Edwardkenway

[Edwardkenway]

Hi all, just a quick post. If you have seen The Lazy Saints Ballahoo build log you know he had problems with the deadeye strops not fitting the cut-out in the  chainplate channel, I've had the same problem so ended up making my own strops from copper wire and blacking it.

Also made a few eyelets as well.

Results below : I  think they will suffice.

Til next time.

[The Lazy Saint]

Hi Edward, 

They look great, they definitely will suffice. 

Good job.

Best wishes as always. 

The Lazy Saint. 

[Edwardkenway]

12 hours ago, The Lazy Saint said:

Hi Edward, 

They look great, they definitely will suffice. 

Good job.

Best wishes as always. 

The Lazy Saint. 

Thanks LS, it took a couple of hours to get them to look half decent 😅

[mcpwilk]

For future reference, as shown on the photo of the real deck, the shift of butts is every three or four planks, not alternate planks. Otherwisw, nicely done so far.

 

Mike

Edited July 22, 2019 by mcpwilk

[Edwardkenway]

17 minutes ago, mcpwilk said:

For future reference, as shown on the photo of the real deck, the shift of butts is every three or four planks, not alternate planks. Otherwisw, nicely done so far.

 

Mike

I was going to do 3 plank pattern but forgot to put shorter plank in so became 2 plank. I could of kicked myself 😖

[Edwardkenway]

Hi all, 

Managed to do a couple of hours on Sherbourne this evening, put the pumps together,  dry fitted, might need a bit of something but we'll see. Fixed the rudder in place. Assembled and fitted a swivel gun, still needs painting so looks a bit rough.

I have also rigged one deck gun🤬. How long should the rope be?  I read somewhere it's 3 times the length of the gun barrel but was well too long as the recoil would send the cannon smashing into the companion hatch.  So HELP please to get it right first time instead of having to redo it 3 or 4 times.

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks 

[tkay11]

The simple way to obtain the length of the rope would be to pull your cannon as far back as you want and measure the resulting length.

 

Tony

[The Lazy Saint]

Hi Edward,

Great job so far, l am enjoying watching your build, not least of all because l hope to build that ship myself next. Your cannon looks good to me, but l must confess l can't supply the answer to your question re: the length of rope, as l am trying to address the same problem on my own build. With luck someone will supply us with the correct answer. If l were to guess l would say try 2.5 times length of the gun barrel. 

Keep up the good work

Best wishes as always. 

The Lazy Saint. 

[Edwardkenway]

Thanks Tony,  I didn't think of that, trying to be too clever instead of taking a step back.

 

LS the gun looks ok now but that Is the 3rd attempt!! But thanks for the encouragement. I don't think that Tonys answer will do for your build as Ballahoo has carronades doesn't it, so I would suggest double the length of the slide,

Good luck 

Edited July 24, 2019 by Edwardkenway