bruce d Posted June 11, 2019 Share #1 Posted June 11, 2019 Hello, Does anyone have experience using a wood called ‘Cedar of Lebanon’? Wiki says ‘Cedrus libani, commonly known as the cedar of Lebanon or Lebanon cedar, is a species of cedar native to the mountains of the Eastern Mediterranean basin.’ I have a small, well seasoned stash of this. It is very easy to work with and takes an edge beautifully, but all the information I have found refers to large applications like doors and wardrobes. I have nothing to tell me how it behaves in small projects where it might be bonded to another wood: for example, is it stable enough to be used in bread-and-butter hulls? Any thoughts appreciated. Bruce Bob Cleek 1 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cleek Posted June 11, 2019 Share #2 Posted June 11, 2019 The Wood Database is your friend. It should be on every modeler's "favorites" list: https://www.wood-database.com/?s=cedar+of+lebanon Canute, mtaylor, allanyed and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce d Posted June 11, 2019 Author Share #3 Posted June 11, 2019 55 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said: The Wood Database is your friend. Hello Bob, Yes, it is a wonderful resource which I was introduced to by an earlier thread in the forum. This wood was considered a superior choice in the past for furniture and house trim and that is the source of my modest stash. I don't have enough to make a useful wardrobe (the ideal use for this aromatic wood) but more than enough for a ship's hull and base. Besides the general question, because you never know what will pop up, the particular point I was curious about was how it acts when bonded to another wood. It has resins, as all cedars do, and strong aromatic properties. Both could cause 'issues'. Any problems? Pretty sure I will use some but it seemed wise to tap into the collective (and vast) wisdom of this forum. Bruce Canute 1 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted June 12, 2019 Share #4 Posted June 12, 2019 Question do begat answers which mean more questions. Is the wood porous? Fine grained? If not porous (the "vein" holes) and fine grained then that's good. So, take a couple of small pieces say 1-2" long by 1/4" wide and maybe 1/4" thick. Glue them together with some wood glue and clamp. Try popping them apart once the glue is dry. As a side note, Yellow Ceder works very well for modeling. Canute and bruce d 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cleek Posted June 12, 2019 Share #5 Posted June 12, 2019 13 hours ago, mtaylor said: As a side note, Yellow Ceder works very well for modeling. While I expect it won't make any difference to the question at hand, i.e. how well cedar of Lebanon holds with glue, Alaska Yellow Cedar is actually a cypress, not a cedar. (I know, ... picky, picky, picky. :D bruce d and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce d Posted June 12, 2019 Author Share #6 Posted June 12, 2019 1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said: (I know, ... picky, picky, picky. A much under-rated quality. 😎 mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted June 12, 2019 Share #7 Posted June 12, 2019 Will it scale well, or does it neon flash its presence? Does it scale well? If it has closed pores and an indistinct variation between Spring and Summer rings? If to your eye, a cut and fine sanded surface would show well on a model, it would be a waste to hide it as a carved hull - if it is difficult to source. If if fails these tests, then carving a hull using it would work, if the Database is correct about its compatibility with wood glue. It is in the Lime, Spruce, Fir, White Pine, Aspen range of hardness. It should carve easily. bruce d and mtaylor 2 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce d Posted June 12, 2019 Author Share #8 Posted June 12, 2019 Neon and fireworks. Although some pieces in my stash have straight, milky white grain the rest is contrasting rings. It carves very well and has closed pores in the yellow parts tending to open pores in the whitest areas. The most appealing feature of this wood, and the reason I am thinking about using it, is the carving. Bruce mtaylor 1 Quote 🌻 STAY SAFE A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin current builds: HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted June 13, 2019 Share #9 Posted June 13, 2019 9 hours ago, Bob Cleek said: While I expect it won't make any difference to the question at hand, i.e. how well cedar of Lebanon holds with glue, Alaska Yellow Cedar is actually a cypress, not a cedar. (I know, ... picky, picky, picky. Nope, not picky to me. I didn't know that. And for that, I'll go do penance.... maybe clean my apartment. bruce d and Canute 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Reira Posted December 12, 2020 Share #10 Posted December 12, 2020 An absolutely legendary wood. Only the wood that built King Solomon's temple, no big deal. Cedrus libani, a beautiful wood from a stunning tree. mtaylor and bruce d 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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