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Miss Caroline by Bedford - Scale 1:8 - model of my full size build


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Well I have finished building the 1:1 boat so now I'm doing the model. The plans are drawn at 1:8 scale so I'm going 1 to 1 off them which is very convenient.

I aim to make it as much as the original is made as is practical, including using the same timbers from left overs. The exception to this is the transom because the original is rosewood but the grain is so open it was barely usable at 1:1 so I'm going to use mahogany instead.

 

When I met Mark Pearse a while back I mentioned that I might do this and he was very keen that I should so here you are Mark.

 

The plans have all the lines I need so it was pretty easy to draw it up plus the understanding of having already built it goes a long way.

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Thanks Jim, I'm sure it will and at the scale of 1:8 detail should be easier than normal.

 

She'll be one of very few models with sitka spruce spars I'd imagine.

 

The planking will be interesting because the full size model had them cnc router cut to shape but I'm going to have to take the lines from the hull as I go in this case and they are some interesting shapes!

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Popeye, thanks for the compliment.

 

I am building her again exactly (almost) the way I built the original. The building form shown is a 1/8th scale representation of the original and will be scrapped once the hull is finished and righted for fit out. Each individual plank land is cut into the molds to aid correct fitment. I even have a sheet of 0.8mm plywood on order for the planks.

 

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A little more done, this time I steam bent the apron while the original is laminated.

I've joined the keelson to the apron and started fairing the keelson to accept the garboards but here I have to stop because I'm waiting on a sheet of 0.8mm plywood from which I'll laminate 2 layers and then a layer of mahogany to make the transom before I can finish fitting and fairing the keelson in preparation for the planking which will be done with the 0.8mm plywood.

 

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Quite appropriate John

 

On that, when Neil Armstrong died I worked for a car dealer, in the workshop. In the lunch room I saw the headline on the paper and said "I saw that man walk on the moon" crickets, tumbleweeds. I was the only one old enough to have seen it 😕

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had a set back with this project. I'm guessing that the heating inside caused the building "spine" to warp a bit so everything went out of whack. I walked away from it for a while!

 

Hopefully the problem is now solved by using different materials and approach. Everything is now clamped and aligned very nicely.. Rather than removing the molds to add glue and re-position them I will cut several small blocks and just glue them into the right angles in the jig so it all stays aligned.

 

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Port garboard is on!

I knew I had drawings of the strakes at a small size to show how they went together. As luck would have it the drawing is at 50% of the build size so I just had to double the size and tweek them a bit to make them fit, well the first one anyway. The ply at 0.8mm is easily cut with good scissors which makes life easy and means I can cut the strakes inside, no sawdust!

 

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Greg, the 1:1 molds were stepped to locate each strake and give a flat land on the mold for the strake. The lands between strakes were still planed to give a proper mating surface. So if you took a completed boat and pressed a giant profile gauge into it you'd get the shape of the mold if that makes sense.

The stepped molds just worked as a guide so all the strakes overlapped by the correct amount etc.

 

It's very hard to replicate at his scale because the ply is only 0.8mm thick so in this case they are more just guide lines to work to.

 

This pic doesn't show it very well because it's of a concave part of the hull and the next strake did fall flush on the garboard at that mold but was then rebated into the garboard as it flowed to the transom. You can see the step for the third strake and a straight edge placed on that land would hit the edge of the second strake so you remove material from the second strake until the straight edge lays flat on the third strake land and fair it to the next mold etc.

 

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I found that letting the next plank into the previous one at stem and stern required a fine chisel or miniature shoulder plane. Found a plane online but a bit much $$ and a bit big so I made a chisel from a short length of 1/8" HSS tool steel and it works a treat!

 

Next problem was applying the glue along the length of the plank without it skinning over due to reverse cycle heating, I needed a quicker way to apply it so I made a glue syringe, it's short and fat (the plunger is 10mm diameter) with a 1mm nozzle. The glue goes on very quickly now.

 

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5 hours ago, Bedford said:

I needed a quicker way to apply it so I made a glue syringe,

Oh my, of course you made that little beauty instead of buying one! I cannot remember where I came across a quote that seems relevant but I shall paraphrase. "Buying things is for suckers!" Well done, indeed.

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The beauty of making it is I get exactly what I want. It is short and fat so it fits entirely in my hand and I just have to apply slight pressure as I run along the joint rather than a long contraption that requires greater muscle movement and is therefore less accurate.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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