WalrusGuy Posted November 25, 2020 Share #361 Posted November 25, 2020 For the curved part I used a coping saw keeping a bit of access material then sanded it off. Maybe you could try this but it's time consuming given its not using a power tool. I used basswood for this which is relatively easy to sand manually, so not sure how cedar would react.. Overworked724 1 Quote Current: USF Confederacy - Model Shipways (Build Log) HMS Pickle - Caldercraft (Build Log) Complete: Virgina 1819 - Artesania Latina (Gallery) U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways (Build Log, Gallery) On the shelf: Armed Virginia Sloop - Model Shipways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted November 26, 2020 Author Share #362 Posted November 26, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, WalrusGuy said: ...used basswood for this which is relatively easy to sand manually, so not sure how cedar would react. Cedar cuts easy but if you have any cross grain it makes it difficult. I’m trying to use a #11 blade. Good grief. 🤣 Edited November 26, 2020 by Overworked724 Justin P. and WalrusGuy 2 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted November 26, 2020 Author Share #363 Posted November 26, 2020 Well, my lack of experience is showing. Spent way to much time overthinking the cap rails and order of attack. Decided to stay with cedar for the caps. The bow requires finesse and some hand shaping. Went straight with Chuck’s practicum and made the long run portions just back from the bow curvature out of a straight piece of cedar stripping. Wetted and am force bending those to make installation easier. One area I’m deviating from the practicum is installing the molding after install. I’d rather not mess with that so plan to precarve the molding shape in the outer edge of the rails then sand/clean them up before installing. ...that’s my plan anyway...😂 NovaStorm and Justin P. 2 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDDET Posted November 26, 2020 Share #364 Posted November 26, 2020 The wine did the trick! Overworked724 and Justin P. 2 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted November 27, 2020 Author Share #365 Posted November 27, 2020 (edited) Just a few pics... Used Tamiya tape and a sharpie to get an accurate impression of the cap rails at the bow. I transferred the tape to a piece of paper, cut out the impression, then traced the figure (with extra 0.5mm on each side for the slight overhang) on the 1/16” cedar. Time will tell if my efforts bear fruit. 😳 Also installed my fake deck using the 0.4mm birch plywood. Installed the sections between the bulkhead frames themselves. I’ll lay down the last section after I put in the faux second deck and walkway frame. But it feels good to finally have a clean looking deck. It actually turned out straight and even. It is nice and rigid near the bow, so I hope this will make the nibbing and joggling a bit easier. Again...time will tell if I chose wisely! 😳 Happy Thanksgiving!!! Edited November 27, 2020 by Overworked724 WalrusGuy, CPDDET, abelson and 3 others 6 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Coleman Posted November 27, 2020 Share #366 Posted November 27, 2020 (edited) She’s looking great! I’m glad you’re ahead of me, I’m definitely going to keep an eye on your decking. That looks like it’ll come out nice and even. Question for you, not a critique at all, is there a reason you put a joint at each bulkhead rather than one big piece? Edited November 27, 2020 by Jamie Coleman Overworked724 and Justin P. 2 Quote “The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.” ― Jacques Yves Cousteau Work in Progress: US Brig Syren Completed Works: Thermopylae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted November 27, 2020 Author Share #367 Posted November 27, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jamie Coleman said: Question for you, not a critique at all, is there a reason you put a joint at each bulkhead rather than one big piece? Hi Jamie! Thanks for the vote of confidence. 🤞 Fingers crossed! Answer to your question @Jamie Coleman, there are a few reasons I chose multiple sections. First, setting them up as ‘bands’ stretched between each bulkhead gives a visual marker of where the bulkheads are...which will (hopefully) make it a bit easier to keep the butt joints consistent when they occur across the width of the ship. Second, a solid piece fake deck would be more difficult to cut and set in place...whereas I can make each section and cut in the mast holes and companionway hole without issue. If I mess up, I’m just remaking a small section. Third is that the deck has a 3D curvature. There is a slight ‘bow’ in the deck from stem to stern as well as a camber in the deck from port to starboard. Breaking it up into bands ensures I am keeping the camber. The bow from stem to stern would obviously be ‘flat’ between each adjacent section. The 0.5mm plywood is pretty stiff...but the overall curvature would be maintained (🤔 I think...) In the pic below you can see the dip in the deck when I put in the center line (thread/tape) on two pins...the thread was deck level at bow and stern...think it dips about 4mm in total. Update...got my center line in and planning to finish up companionway and final fake deck section...then it’s on to painting. Moving on... Edited November 27, 2020 by Overworked724 JpR62, NovaStorm, Jamie Coleman and 2 others 4 1 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovaStorm Posted November 28, 2020 Share #368 Posted November 28, 2020 Pa I'm confused (not the first time) what is the purpose of the false deck. Quote ... I'm a broken man on a Halifax pier The last of Barrett's Privateers ~~~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share #369 Posted November 28, 2020 (edited) 58 minutes ago, NovaStorm said: Pa I'm confused (not the first time) what is the purpose of the false deck. Hi Robin...I was talking to a fellow modeler and he said false decks are common to create an even surface if one doesn't exist. But frankly, I wanted it more as a security blanket. I had those ridiculously large gaps between the filler blocks and the bulkhead, and just wasn't too keen on trying to use filler to create an even deck. (There's an argument for plank on frame if I've ever heard one...). I expected I was going to have problems, especially in the bow where you have the joggle the planks in the margin planks...and cutting those little bits with some added support beneath the margin plank would ensure the seams between the margin and plank fit level (if not perfect - at least in the same plane...since I have no faith in my unformed skill in this regard). We'll see...that's about all I can say. Haven't seen anyone try this, and figured it was worth a do! Edited November 28, 2020 by Overworked724 NovaStorm 1 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share #370 Posted November 28, 2020 Companionway done! In my eagerness to get it installed I almost forgot to put in my second deck. 😳 Since I am adding the fake deck, I bolstered with additional supports on either side of the companionway. (Never thought I’d be so happy to lay in the piece...!!!) And here are some courtesy pics! And the nice thing is...I’ve taped up the hole for the companionway...so no dust or little bits get in there. 😊 Onwards... abelson, JpR62, RichardG and 4 others 7 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share #371 Posted December 3, 2020 As with most...my Thanksgiving over, myjobis getting in the way of my shipyard. Got my rough cap rails formed and a deck plan sheet fitted to the deck to help me make my margin planks and whatnot.... Slowwwwww....😣 CPDDET 1 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share #372 Posted December 6, 2020 Got my cap rails ready. I decided to add the molding in the large pieces themselves rather than add a 1/16” strip later. Chose boxwood for the cap which made it a bit easier to scrape in the molding. Scarf joint wasn’t as hard to form as I thought. Got a slight overhang outboard and a healthier one inboard which I plan to sand down a bit. Should take the width to only slightly less than 1/4” (which is what it is now.) So I’m right where I should be per the width specified in the practicum. 👍🏽 Bonus pics.... The sheet is simply a template sheet so I can gauge spacing/decking furniture/etc. Moving on... JpR62, Keithbrad80, CiscoH and 3 others 6 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDDET Posted December 6, 2020 Share #373 Posted December 6, 2020 Very nice, Pat. I like it! D Overworked724 1 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niwotwill Posted December 7, 2020 Share #374 Posted December 7, 2020 Nice job of the deck to smooth the surface for planking. Its coming along fantastic I love to see you ideas of how to overcome obstacles. Great Job Pat Stay well and stay safe Will Overworked724 1 Quote Current Build: Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale On Hold: HM Cutter Cheerful Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale 1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121 1:48 scale Completed Build: Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share #375 Posted December 7, 2020 (edited) Well...onto each ship a little rain must fall... I made a big mistake. I am using Tamiya paint (Red X-7) spiked with a few drops of German Grey (XF-63) and Desert Yellow (XF-59) (about 10 drops each in the red pot) to darken it to a deeper hue. I had noticed when I painted to sills before bulkhead planking that there was a slight 'sheen' but thought it might have been because I painted over some errant glue or thought it was just my eyes. Wrong... After painting the transom and up to the first couple of gun ports on either side, there was an obvious sheen. I had thought it might have been due to painting over the wood filler, so sanded and added another coat (I dilute 1:1 using the Tamiya paint thinner for brush painting). Nope...sheen just got worse. And then I became aware after talking to a fellow modeler I had selected the wrong red pot. The 'FLAT' red pot is what I had intended to use (Tamiya Flat Red XF-7) but had used the gloss red (X-7) instead. To say that I'm pissed is an understatement. It's just such a stupid mistake. I spent the better part of the day trying to sand out the layers of glossy red paint from the model without doing any (or too much) damage by additional sanding - especially to the transom cap. I'll do some additional touch up sanding and try some swatch experiments to ensure I don't repeat this fiasco...I'd post a pic but I'm too upset. Besides, the pics are gruesome.... Edited December 7, 2020 by Overworked724 Jamie Coleman 1 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDDET Posted December 7, 2020 Share #376 Posted December 7, 2020 Just wonder if a clear matt finish coat would help cut the sheen. I use a clear matt acrylic spray over my painted parts. Of course I'm using matt finish paint as well. I find the finished look preferable to just the flat paint. Bought mine at Hobby Lobby. Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanDavison Posted December 7, 2020 Share #377 Posted December 7, 2020 I usually finish with a spay coat coat of matt or semi-matt varnish, so it really does matter weather you use gloss or flat paint Overworked724 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted December 7, 2020 Share #378 Posted December 7, 2020 Repaint with the correct paint that is flat. Just consider it a second coat. NovaStorm and Overworked724 2 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share #379 Posted December 7, 2020 Thanks, Kurt. Been experimenting with some plank swatches...not very skilled at painting...so wanted to make sure. I went ahead and sanded anyway since I'd added quite a few coats. But I've got the correct paint now, and confirmed the match of the color. CPDDET 1 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 9, 2020 Author Share #380 Posted December 9, 2020 Painting continues. Sanding and repainting was a good idea. I’m slowly pulling away from the original ooopsie. Pics will come later, but the results so far are promising. 👍🏽 Jamie Coleman and CPDDET 2 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share #381 Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) So....painting. Yeeeahhhh.... NOT my favorite thing. As I said earlier, I was all set, prepped and ready to roll on my bulkheads. Got my paint thinned and my brushes ready...and had taped off the hull to minimize major oopsie's when I made a major oopsie! I started with the transom and was putting on coats on both port and starboard bulkheads...(NOTE to future Patrick....NEVER start on the transom...start on a bulkhead. It's easier to sand!!!)...when I realized there was a slight 'sheen'. After trying to 'sand out' the sheen and making it worse, I realized after talking to a modeling buddy that I had used the wrong fricking paint (see post above - I don't want to relive it.). I slapped some 'glossy' and 'flat' red paint on some wood to make sure I wasn't going crazy...and I wasn't. The glossy paint I had used is on the lower right of the two swatches in the pic below. My transom at this point looked like an absolute train wreck...and the model was put away for the night while the Admiral fed me medicinal scotch. I spent the next 2 to 3 days gently sanding out the crappy glossy paint (Tamiya really needs to more clearly label the gloss vs flat paint on their paint pots). After I was satisfied I had done all I could to remove the old gloss paint layers, I prepared the same mix of FLAT red paint with desert yellow/german grey and thinned down 1:1 with Tamiya thinner. I must have put on about 10 coats to blend in the blotchy after affects from the first try...but the results were passable. So...at this point I enjoyed a marathon painting session of carefully laying down coat after coat of the bulkhead flat red paint mixture until I was satisfied I couldn't possibly do any better... And of course....after tearing off my paper and tape shielding, I noticed I made a couple small oopsie's when painting the sweep ports. It looked like smeared lipstick!!! And I can't figure out how the hell I did that!! But at this point, I simply wasn't surprised. But my choices to correct the smears were few... 1) sand out the blemish (impossible without making it worse), 2) try to soak out the blemish with thinner (same thing...I could see catastrophe written all over that idea), or 3) put some makeup on the model! So I went with 3) and mixed up a small pot of 'makeup' paint to match the hue of the cedar (3 parts Tamiya flat white to 1 part Tamiya desert yellow - no thinner since I wanted it relatively thick). I tried my cedar colored makeup paint on a cedar plank which I had dabbed with the bulkhead red paint to see how it looked after I covered it (bottom pic)... I'm not an artist....but the result wasn't too bad. So I used a detail brush and tried it on the blemished sweep port...Voila'...no more smeared lipstick. At the scale of the sweep ports, you would really need to know what you're looking for to find it... Ok...I'm done painting the interior bulkheads, and am hesitant to move on to painting the exterior because it's BLACK. I mean, that is the most unforgiving color!! 😳 So, I'll bask in the glory of one thing accomplished before I move on the my next painting trial.... Moving on....to a beer! Edited December 10, 2020 by Overworked724 Ryland Craze, NovaStorm, Gahm and 7 others 10 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDDET Posted December 10, 2020 Share #382 Posted December 10, 2020 Much more than passable, a good job of keeping your calm and making a good recovery. WalrusGuy, RichardG, Ryland Craze and 2 others 5 Quote Current build: NRG Half Hull Previous build: MS Bluenose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalrusGuy Posted December 10, 2020 Share #383 Posted December 10, 2020 Great fix!! Really liking the red paint Overworked724 and Justin P. 2 Quote Current: USF Confederacy - Model Shipways (Build Log) HMS Pickle - Caldercraft (Build Log) Complete: Virgina 1819 - Artesania Latina (Gallery) U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways (Build Log, Gallery) On the shelf: Armed Virginia Sloop - Model Shipways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gahm Posted December 10, 2020 Share #384 Posted December 10, 2020 Very nice paint job! And your 'makeup' works fine, too! Thomas Overworked724 and Justin P. 2 Quote Current Built: Model Shipways Syren (US Brig 1803) Last Built: Anfora (kit bashed) Ictineo II (1st steam powered submarine 1864) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share #385 Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) Many thanks ALL for the kind likes and comments guys! It truly helps keep the wind in my sails!!! Just getting ready for exterior painting (fingers crossed 🤞) and wanted to dry fit the cap rails one more time. Glad I did as the transom paint added a slight amount of width which required the cap rail at the point to be slightly adjusted. Rather do it now than after I’ve painted them... The caps were made in two sections per side. I used boxwood to get me the cleanest scarf joint...and more importantly, I included the molding simulation so I wouldn’t need to add that small strip to the outside. Not sure if that’s the best way, but it makes painting and install easier...and that can all be done off the ship. Going to take my dear sweet time with the black paint. 😎 Moving on... Edited December 10, 2020 by Overworked724 NovaStorm, Gahm, abelson and 5 others 8 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin P. Posted December 10, 2020 Share #386 Posted December 10, 2020 That cap rail looks extra good, how did you cut the molding in? Scraper? Quote Current: US Brig SYREN - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 Completed: HMS TRITON - Cross Section - Scale 1:48 / Gallery Secret Vessel MOREL - Master Korabel - Scale 1:36 / Gallery 18th Century Armed Longboat - Model Shipways - Scale 1:24 / Gallery HMS BOUNTY Launch - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 / Gallery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share #387 Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Justin P. said: That cap rail looks extra good, how did you cut the molding in? Scraper? Good question @Justin P.! If you look at my build log post #131 I describe what I did to make a fine scraper. The Dodeco carbon discs are perfect for cutting metal. You can trim up a thousand scrapers of various patterns and sizes and it take a few seconds. You can use steel scraper edges or a flat razor blade to make one. Hope that helps! Edited December 10, 2020 by Overworked724 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin P. Posted December 10, 2020 Share #388 Posted December 10, 2020 4 hours ago, Overworked724 said: Hope that helps! It does! Ive done a similar thing with razor blades, but those carbon disks look like they make a much cleaner result. Ive only used thicker Dremel discs and diamond cutters for this task and have found them imprecise. Ill be investing in some of these. Overworked724 1 Quote Current: US Brig SYREN - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 Completed: HMS TRITON - Cross Section - Scale 1:48 / Gallery Secret Vessel MOREL - Master Korabel - Scale 1:36 / Gallery 18th Century Armed Longboat - Model Shipways - Scale 1:24 / Gallery HMS BOUNTY Launch - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 / Gallery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abelson Posted December 11, 2020 Share #389 Posted December 11, 2020 Nice detailed work on the cap rail. Overworked724 1 Quote Steven E. Sylven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overworked724 Posted December 14, 2020 Author Share #390 Posted December 14, 2020 (edited) Been working trying to setup a safe painting hood...been fun. The windows don't open vertically, they open horizontally, so trying to put in an exhaust outlet is a bit of a bugbear. Think I have a workaround though. In the interim, I've decided to try to get my airbrushes working...which will take time. I'm going to try and be a bit more careful on the trim work here...as I simply don't trust myself with black paint. Took a break and cut the remaining deck planks, false keel, and waterways sections (1/16" square strips - need to file them still) from boxwood. I still need to make my margin planks as well, but I have a nice paper template to aid me in my endeavors on that arena..might attack them this week. The laser cut basswood margin planks (bow sections) that came with the kit don't fit cleanly and even if they did I couldn't use them as they would not match the deck planking. I am thinking to coat the underside (up to the water line) with a few coats of wipe on poly to seal the wood and give good purchase for the adhesive copper plates. After some fine sanding, the underside should be ready for the coppering - and I'd prefer do that than paint anything more than I absolutely have to!!!! I'll try this off the ship with some test basswood first - but have a pretty good feeling this will work ok. So that will be next on the agenda while I experiment with the painting hood and some airbrush techniques. Once the poly is on, I'll be ready to start painting the exterior areas black - including the cap rails which I will install last. I'll need to do some wood filling/sanding and touch up painting to clean up the caps after the install. Then the deck.... I've decided that I will put my deck in before the coppering. I'm not certain it matters - but I can take breaks during the deck to bang out (literally) my plates over the holiday break and will hopefully be ready to start coppering shortly after I've completed tree nailing the deck....which at the rate I'm going should be sometime in 2022... That's the plan anyway! Edited December 14, 2020 by Overworked724 NovaStorm, Ryland Craze and CPDDET 3 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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