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HMS Pickle by mugje - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 - first build


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Hi mugje, 

I have a small Jam Jar that l use. In the jar itself l have my diluted glue, l assess this each time l use it, maybe adding a little water if it has started to thicken. In the lid l have a little neat glue and l use a brush to apply both thick and thinned glue.

20191015_134410.thumb.jpg.ba332f9fd32bffa0150eb2e337506fb8.jpg

When l have finished the gluing job l have done l put the lid on and it keeps fresh.

20191015_134428.thumb.jpg.06407cbc46c2b995a5a00c24a255de2a.jpg

Hope this helps. 

Best wishes as always, 

The Lazy Saint. 

Edited by The Lazy Saint
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I wasn't happy with how the knots of the lanyards turned out. It was to sloppy and it irritated me.

I had already knotted about 6 of them but cut everything loose. And searched how it could be done better and neater. I took a look in the practicum of the Syren from Chuck Passaro. He uses the cow hitch, or lark knot for that. With a lot of practice it became this, which i'm very happy with. 

Way more neater then the first effort!

IMG_20191017_162155922.jpg

Edited by mugje
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Next step is knotting the ratlines. Caldercraft supplied for this 0.10 naturel thread that need to be stained black when it's knotted against the lower shrouds. 

 

Why they didn't supplied black thread in the first place? I don't know. Or is it mean't to be more authentic? Because they tarred it maybe? 🤔

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Nobody offers 0,1mm black thread, don't know why.

 

However if you stick to the principle that standing rigging was tarred and running not, then the lanyards probably should be natural. Today's historical ships show them usually black but I'm not altogether sure about that. Mine nevertheless are died black.

 

Another point - which might come a bit late:

Having the deadeyes all exactly on the same level looks nice and tidy but for an efficiently working support of the mast it's more important that all the shrouds have the right and an equal tension. So I put this in first priority and if after retying about two times a height different remains but the tension on all the shrouds is about right I leave it like that, hoping that on en efficiently run prototype it was done the same way. I guess if there was time in harbour the skipper would have the deadeyes levelled out again but while sailing there would be a continuous adjusting of the tension but no time for adjusting the deadeyes as well.

The tension also helps when tying the ratlines and when you have to attach blocks for running rigging to the shrouds.

 

Keep up the fantastic work!

Peter

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Thanks for the elaborate answer and compliment Peter, and everybody tnx for the likes.

Good point on the tightness of the lanyards/shrouds. I'm making a mental note in my head for the next time i'm going trough that process. With building a model there are often questions about authenticity or just good looking for the modeller. 

 

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Busy with the ratlines! The first batch ready, it wasn't easy but i'm pretty happy with the result. 

The only thing is, that there is a twist in it, from top to bottom. Probably because of the paint and glue that added some 

stiffness to the whole.

Anyone an idea what I can do about that? Or is there in this stage nothing what I can do to fix this?

On the second not so sharp picture you can see the problem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_20191025_151946763.jpg

IMG_20191025_151807157.jpg

 

IMG_20191025_151641830.jpg

IMG_20191025_151900901_HDR.jpg

Edited by mugje
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Great work,    thought this might be of interest   -   thetrafalgarway.org

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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great work so far :)

coming late into the diluted glue question... but I use the cut bottom of an ordinary beer can. there is a recess around it's circumference (where I put water) and a bump in the middle (where i put glue). this way they can be mixed on demand by a brush. after work I wash it and put away.

Past builds: Prins Willem,  Amati Coca

Current Build: Occre Diana

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I will have to make an eye splice in the middle of the rope...let me see if I understand this correct.

 

The manual says: "For the foremast, to begin, measure an 850mm length of 0.5mm black thread. Using a length of 0.25mm black thread, form an eye splice at the mid pointof the 850mm length of 0.5mm black thread to form an eye of approximately 6mm in diameter".

                                                                                                                                     

How would attach this eye at the 0.5mm black main thread? Just a loop like this ___!___ with the O on top? Or like -----O-----?

Maybe I need to shoot some photos to explain... :D

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5 hours ago, mugje said:

I will have to make an eye splice in the middle of the rope...let me see if I understand this correct.

 

The manual says: "For the foremast, to begin, measure an 850mm length of 0.5mm black thread. Using a length of 0.25mm black thread, form an eye splice at the mid pointof the 850mm length of 0.5mm black thread to form an eye of approximately 6mm in diameter".

                                                                                                                                     

How would attach this eye at the 0.5mm black main thread? Just a loop like this ___!___ with the O on top? Or like -----O-----?

Maybe I need to shoot some photos to explain... :D

Yes please, hard to grasp with photos.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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On 11/2/2019 at 1:21 AM, Old Collingwood said:

Yes please, hard to grasp with photos.

 

OC.

Offcourse the knots are overscale executed, and probably wrong...but it's more clear I hope. It's the top shroud that rests on the hounds at the top of the mast. Personally I think I need to use the left eye splice?

IMG_20191102_094008884.jpg

IMG_20191102_095530655.jpg

Edited by mugje
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1 hour ago, SpyGlass said:

Just catching up  - you are getting along great.

On the subject of foot ropes here is a pic of the real thing in action - somewhat larger vessel than Pickle of course .image.thumb.jpeg.e7c519762219c3f9be163fe896c8b742.jpegand on a modern vessel about Pickles sizeIMG_0266.jpg.bc37baba3c1572060954586d0e58def6.jpg

Note the overlap  of sections of foot rope in both

Tnx Spyglass, and great pics! That's helpful :)

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15 minutes ago, Norway said:

Pristine work mugje...

You are so much faster than me with the Pickle build. Can't find as much time for my build as i wish with work and family.

I'm doing foremast channels now. 

Very nice to follow your build. 

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Tnx! You're ship also does look great!

Nice clean work👍

I have at the moment not a job so a bit more free time 😉

Edited by mugje
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Just ordered the HMS Pegasus from Amati for my second build at Cornwall modelships :)

The doubt was between the Syren, Granado and Pegasus...but in the end, the Pegasus was just the most appealing to me.

Big step forward in complexity, but I think I can manage it with the help of the forum :D 

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