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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

New Bedford Whaleboat by Dr PS - FINISHED - Model Shipways MS2033 - Scale 1:16 - Small

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This is my second build log on this site and it is my first POF. There are excellent build logs for the New Bedford Whaleboat here (Carlmb, Mike-In-Ri, Rbohlman, Senior-Old-Salt, Soup591, Ziled68) and elsewhere (https://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/whaleboat-build-log-by-john-fleming.html).  As a result of this, I will post progress pictures and make only brief comments where necessary to point out peculiarities found during my build. First the kit: 2A7689BD-A739-4BAA-8F56-BEE08CA15AAB.thumb.jpeg.e5a691fd549a3142e7562d7626d356fe.jpeg

Marked waterlines on profile mold. DCA0DFB3-E52E-4C3A-90CA-BCD6CDC59FF8.thumb.jpeg.3482742279afbe0c022333c9a7cc7339.jpegFitted section molds. 5D5C8177-FF36-4032-9DAC-25F326DF7836.thumb.jpeg.ef5e88a2f2e10e241142682f4a8651de.jpegCut notch in cap strip. 3C2CD426-A038-4C40-8C97-BDB7D6DBC8C3.thumb.jpeg.5cd8427e70b2d4639cd36f373031d1ea.jpegFitted with cap strip. DC00C0D7-4E0E-455F-AD3F-248CFC601AFA.thumb.jpeg.aa2bc111b00c30ecabb7ae41fd3f7ab8.jpegGlued cap strips and section molds to profile mold. 4E54B91C-28D1-464B-A277-096CFBD2CD8E.thumb.jpeg.b56738599669a3b8dbc802fbbf666751.jpeg

 

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Finally got the molds fastened to horses and horses fastened to construction board. I should have studied the plans a bit more carefully as I glued the fore and aft horses to the cap strip. I don’t think it will pose too much of a problem as they should be fairly easily cut away. 0598F523-79B6-4E44-AC24-A76AF3442742.thumb.jpeg.ba4b89c0a8d57acb237a47dbb0dba769.jpeg

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Assembled and glued first laminated keel pieces for stem and stern. A3A51EC8-2712-408A-AA12-7FE7CB6E89B1.thumb.jpeg.25361e43939541abe5d342d96bc622e6.jpeg

Next a copy of top and bottom center keel board templates were glued to 3/64”x1/2” and 5/64”x1/2” boards and trimmed. FB5B619A-A7B4-4C39-A609-C9F15776EBF7.thumb.jpeg.4127c159f1167db7fb673a5d3622e660.jpeg

Only the lower layer has the center board slot cut at this time. 

F2614D9B-483F-405C-BE22-596AF9B02C8A.thumb.jpeg.5feffd9d9a03e6553320c559792d34d7.jpeg

The first layer laminate pieces were beveled and the kerf cut.  Glued paper is easily removed with application of some alcohol  A3A51EC8-2712-408A-AA12-7FE7CB6E89B1.thumb.jpeg.25361e43939541abe5d342d96bc622e6.jpeg

CF0F68B4-53C5-4F20-A757-DF0159C6F9FE.jpeg

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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The second laminate layers were assembled and glued. AA423C4C-7B94-44A8-9BB6-BE47495ABE46.thumb.jpeg.bf7fcb6b1f2f4aaa37bfa31f7199acdd.jpeg

The upper and lower keels were positioned and glued to the laminate layers at the stem and stern.756F9B30-5ED8-44AC-8F30-7DD0E4263634.thumb.jpeg.4f587ec0882c448bf09829e937cb84a2.jpeg438B3F0A-EF00-427D-81D9-88ACE0BDD4A3.thumb.jpeg.2176e164cb9c968285dc03cd1797ab78.jpegNext, the keel lips and laminate bevels were smoothed at the kerf joints. Then the garboards were beveled on the upper outboard edge, soaked in 50/50 alcohol/water, fitted to the molds and keels, allowed to dry and glued in place using medium and super thin CA glue. 74A703EF-890B-400F-8457-129CF25FC2B0.thumb.jpeg.d3279f6efb3c6251bbc20a401b276b45.jpeg

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Strakes #’s 2, 3 and 4 were glued into place using CA glue.  In order to keep the glue off the molds, waxed paper was slipped between the strakes and molds. The battens were glued to the strakes with PVA prior to placement. 

 

Strake #5 is shown below clamped to the provided clove piece for shaping prior to gluing.  So far, no real problems have occurred. 😎A9C9F412-A245-42BD-82AB-D6866EA27450.thumb.jpeg.e4bf4add564a15e8d76f82f6a0cbe811.jpeg

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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2 hours ago, Sea Hoss said:

Looks great!  Pretty intricate build huh? Looks like a challenge.

Not too bad! For some reason I find it a bit slow going. The nice part is that the strakes were laser cut but some needed battens attached to them.  Soon the fun begins as 24 frames have to be added. 

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Well, the hull has been built. I noticed a couple of issues which I should have caught and addressed earlier. Looking at the stem from the front, I noticed the strakes below the Sheer are off a bit (the stern was spot on).  😳

 

The second issue is that the tops of most of the molds do not touch the inboard side of the keel. The latter probably resulted from the fact that I removed the boat from the molds after each strake placement so I could run super thin CA down the seams.  Hopefully it will not affect the outcome. 

 

Here the Sheer strake is clamped until the glue dries.9AB4A29D-B2EB-40E5-BED0-A48D50641B1C.thumb.jpeg.f340b197942f372ababbcf20851461d4.jpeg

Below, the Sheer and Gunwale. 

8D714462-1C43-4B27-AFAB-B7CB5636C0FA.thumb.jpeg.a34c62732ae4a1996fc2c60bfebe53db.jpeg

Below, the boat, retaining battens and molds have been removed from the Horse. Because the boat fits rather  loosely, I have decided to do the framing without the molds, etc. Before removing, I will use mold #3 to mark the position of the central frame.  46C1F234-CCD1-4471-B423-A2746F0B01F4.thumb.jpeg.d5599bf7ec6a839916a048690ac24eb0.jpeg

D1D61D84-3BD4-4472-9EB5-A43899DBCCAA.jpeg

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Started framing and decided to make a jig for spacing the frames.  The jig was simply made of blocks, cut to the correct length, glued with Extra Thick CA glue to a 1/32” brass strip. The central portion has no spacers so that the frames can  be easily positioned.B3E1770E-6168-4EE1-812D-BDC3154E4FF2.thumb.jpeg.77fba2211d700d705eddc77e4076374c.jpeg

After marking the central frame using mold three, I proceeded to put the bottom half of the laminated frames in place. I expect a few days of work to finish the frames entirely.FAE18EBF-2478-45F0-9216-57B256AC6EAE.thumb.jpeg.70f36063df289e617c622c47de490636.jpeg

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That framing jig is a great idea. I pondered how those frames could be installed evenly looking at other similar boats, now I know! Your boats looking really good Paul, have you started thinking about a color scheme yet?

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Arthur, the color scheme is my biggest pondering right now. I know Whaleboats were not always painted the same but each company had their scheme for recognition at sea. The recommended colors are not too bad. Other folks building this model have deviated from this, some completely. Curious, do you have any suggestions as to what you would do? As a matter of fact, I would like others out there to jump in on this.

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Hey Paul, the Whale Boat is lookin great! For a possible hint on the color scheme, you may try The New Bedford Whaling Museum web site. I know they have a half scale whaling brig on display and several chase boats.

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The frames were finally completed.  They were held in place for the PVA glue to dry with a clamp at the gunwale strake and a pin at keel. 

0484774B-0027-410D-B3D5-F4B7A36DD426.thumb.jpeg.acacfdf929b6f7e0cdc8fe3cae955643.jpeg

The thwart risers were also attached with PVA glue at a distance below the top edge of the gunwale strake as indicated on Sheet 2 or the plans.  The risers were made from kit supplied 1/16” x 1/4” strips. 

BFFAE0C2-7C91-4D3B-89BA-B059030EBD37.thumb.jpeg.62feab79f1c58f22b337f5fba10a3a03.jpeg

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I have now completed installing the Thwart Risers, adjacent ceiling pieces and beams for the stem and stern sheets.  The Thwart Risers and Ceilings will be painted so I have chosen not to use nail fasteners. The outer strakes will also be painted. 

 

 Next will be the Centerboard Trunk and Mast Step. 117F775F-D835-44DA-9486-B70772059778.thumb.jpeg.06521c0923195c8a5b3dcf65d644a075.jpeg7724D573-F836-4B2A-80C5-C614851A9DEF.thumb.jpeg.eef7c8c84a296c6857eec0eb929e5362.jpeg

9193F350-CD3B-410B-BE5C-B3ED586EAB9F.jpeg

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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I have completed the ceiling.  I used 3/64” x 5/16” strips for all ceiling planks except #6 on the port side where the gap was a bit too wide. Here I cut a plank to fit from a 1/2” wide strip. 1C1491EB-2204-4D3B-9954-A8812CBDBF08.thumb.jpeg.a8b01393e985bed6d6ed496c40281b41.jpeg

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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I am having real problems making the Cheek pieces.  The dimensions on the plan sheets don’t help very much. I have attempted several pieces and none seem very close to what others have achieved.  Not only do I have to get one right, I will have to cut another matching one for the other side.  I have several pictures of what others have done, but descriptions are very sparse. Some have indicated that they are not too hard to make. Before I waste more daylight and wood, I would appreciate any tips from others. 

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6 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Cardstock makes excellent templates.  Once you find what fits, trace it on the wood.  Then just flip it over and trace the other side.

 

Unfortunately, sometimes it comes down to trial and error.

I see how cardstock would work great fro 2D; however, the Cheek pieces have a complicated 3D twist with scarfs.  I think I can get the scarfs OK if I can get the basic twists down.  I can probably used cardstock to get the proper length and height of the Cheek and then do some carving on the resulting block.  I will continue working on it - trial and error.  If other builders of the MS NBW have scale drawings of the Cheeks, I would appreciate any help.

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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First cut was deep enough to include the rabbet cut for the gunwales  The second was cut parallel to the drawn line to form the outboard side of the Cheek.  The rabbet cut was then shaped to give a fit. Finally the scarf was made for the inwale.

760A67F6-6FC8-4BD9-9345-500FBC394418.thumb.jpeg.07a99371bc00f50714a6014a1d6a35dc.jpeg

333565EE-DB98-43A4-BEDB-E8FDB547DC68.thumb.jpeg.91503413283424a7e3c433beff853609.jpeg

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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