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New Bedford Whaleboat by Dr PS - FINISHED - Model Shipways MS2033 - Scale 1:16 - Small


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15 hours ago, Sea Hoss said:

Looks fairly complex? Not a simple little boat!

Yes it has some new interesting challenges for me to learn to overcome. This one is definitely helping me learn new skills which should be helpful for more complicated builds. I am glad I went this route.   As I read ahead, I see that there are several more learning curves facing me. 

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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Arthur, Hurry up and finish the longboat. Then you can get started and catch up with me on this one. LOL

 

I have the Inwales, Gunwales and roller in place. And now I am getting very close to color decisions time. Right now I am leaning toward the following:

 

Hull to Sheer - Dark Green 

Rub Rail - Black 

Sheer - White 

Gunwale/Inwale - Black 

From Inwale to first ceiling plank - Light Green or ?

Ceilings - Gray

Thwarts - Light Brown & Black ?

All else - Natural or Stained

 

And of course I reserve the right to change my mind.

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Hah, I did make a change of plans on the paint scheme. After researching museum pieces and reading several articles, what I was proposing was within historical accuracy. However, I found some interesting paint schemes which I liked better than my first one. As of now I am thinking about the following: 

 

Hull to Sheer -  White 

Rub Rail - Black 

Sheer -  Red

Gunwale/Inwale - Black

Wales, Thwart Risers and Thwarts - Buff

Ceilings - Light Blue 

Stem and Stern Sheets - Light Oak Stain

 

After I make the Sheets, I plan to paint the interior so I will be heading into several days without posting. 

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Excellent job! I recently completed this kit and found it was very satisfying albeit at times frustrating. As to colors I searched the web for pictures of boats and completed models and finally chose to paint it to please my eyes. I look forward to following this build.  John   https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20442-a-novice-at-age-70/

 

Edited by turangi
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Thanks John - I have a question which you might answer. When the Gunwale and Inwale stripes are in place, is there any additional cap rail strip which needs to be added?  I do not find any reference to it in the manual or on build logs. However, in the parts list there are strips designated as for cap strips and sheets. 

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Finally got the stem and stern sheets done and in the process discovered that I got the Sheet beams set a bit too high above the keel. When installing them, I measured on the plans from the Inwale down to the top of the beams and ended up putting the bottom of the beams at that position on the boat. This resulted in the Sheets being wider than the plans and an interesting herringbone pattern which I kinda like. Anyway, the height of the Sheets increase as a result of this mistake would only amount to about two inches on the prototype. 

 

After the Sheets were made, they were stained.  Then I painted the inside of the boat. The Gunwales will be black. 1EF03ACF-56C2-40E3-BFD1-6E9D46F99D1E.thumb.jpeg.e8d6b43c4599097e50479a74ddc2dc2b.jpegB87D65B4-B327-4998-A2BA-6AF742CEBD6B.thumb.jpeg.c12059d51e8239bb47696ca553fe08bb.jpeg77E37B42-0A8A-49F4-9434-3FEAC0EB077D.thumb.jpeg.9877abf472077a5c762399935ebe5f4f.jpeg

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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One Thwart and its Knees in place. I find this process is very slow but the laminate procedure seems to work out well.  Ready for the next one. I am using Minwax Golden Oak Stain.  I may paint the center portion of the Thwarts dark brown or black  I will wait and see how the whole boat comes together before I make a decision on this.578D1261-8419-4753-86D1-2A80E0111967.thumb.jpeg.7b56b69a5ec715524bd4f84ffef9eda6.jpeg

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Three Thwarts and their Knees essentially finished. Yet to decide if I want to paint the center of Thwarts. I kind of like the look as is right now.  We’ll see. Anyway, one and a half Thwarts to go. As a break in the action, I worked on the Box, Cuddy Board and Lion’s Tongue. Then I added a bit of paint to check out the color scheme.

 

After looking at the photo below, I see the unstained Thwart may need straightening.  Interesting how photos sometimes reveal things you miss otherwise. I will check in out tomorrow.BFBE7C65-2EAD-4BDA-853F-C0FA0511BE87.thumb.jpeg.ff61389a94f675e47bdac24c80d813ce.jpeg 

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I found that I had done the thwart knees wrong on half of the thwarts and so I redid them.  In addition, I worked on the Thigh Board and the Mast Tabernacle. Shown below is the start of the Mast Chute.IMG_4029.thumb.JPG.5a120cbe2759adad975a1a178ec2651e.JPG

The Mast Hinge was constructed from the photo etched sheet and bent into shape using round nosed pliers. The hinge pins were made from 1/32" brass rod. IMG_4032.thumb.JPG.d3e181f0754f1054ee866b7d24335377.JPGIMG_4036.thumb.JPG.3e6cf01c97b6147d2955d832da884acb.JPGThe Mast Tabernacle was drawn and then cut from 3/32" a basswood sheet. IMG_4053.thumb.JPG.9733e330fe890ef5b570ba5a543ea69f.JPGIMG_4054.thumb.JPG.53a80059d31b44d03cbb8fbeee688714.JPG

The Thigh Board was completed by adding leather to the Clumsy Cleat; adding the Kicking Strap; and adding the Lance Tails. 

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Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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  • 2 weeks later...

Bow chocks were cut from 1/4” x 1/8” stock and glued in place. Also a cleat for the center board lifting rod was cut from scrap and glued in place. In the first photo notice the completed Thigh Board.  In the photos you can also notice the small copper nails in place on the thwart knees and Thigh Board.  The nails are made of copper and are 0.5 mm x 0.6 mm.  7C8FFC73-8BA3-4890-AE16-AC7700D154E6.thumb.jpeg.b99cf48a89a6c3311e93e847846f2f75.jpeg2FD301B9-6BB4-483F-A611-BC89C4268AAB.thumb.jpeg.1adb8db77b260a4badbfb38af230b08f.jpeg

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This is such a nice little project and I don't mean that to imply that it is simple.  This is one of the first boats I built many years ago from a  Blue Jacket kit, (I think) because it was a solid hull.  Very detailed and a learning experience, not only in model ship building but in whaling and the type of conditions these men must have worked under.

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Jonathan and Arthur, thanks for the comments on the colors. Actually the present colors might change slightly. Painted surfaces were used on whaleboats in order to preserve the wood surfaces as much as possible. At present I might paint the thwarts two tone.  I am thinking the color of the risers will be extended inward about 1/5th or less of the thwart width on each side. The rest would be a dark brown similar to the stain shown in most of my recent photos.  (See the first photo in my last post entry above where I painted just a bit of the first thwart the riser color.) The only change I might consider is to paint the entire thwart the dark brown.  I have been spending a lot of time studying different color schemes and have gone back and forth with different ones several times.  Any suggestions on thwart colors which I have discussed above are welcomed. 

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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10 hours ago, Sea Hoss said:

Coming along nicely, more complex than I would have thought!

Interestingly I have used the plans extensively for building. In the case of the longboat, I rarely used them. There is a great deal of carving to do - which I really enjoy. There will be sails to make and a whole lot of details. Whaleboat gear will probably take as long as I have already spent. 

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I have finished putting in place the Logger Head, Mast Tabernacle and Mast Chute. The Logger Head was carved from a piece of 3/8” dowel (not provided) following the plan sheets and manual. Much care was needed to position and drill a 1/8” hole into the deck floor for the Logger Head support post. The hole in the Lion’s Tongue was 3/8”. The Tabernacle and Chute have been described earlier. The mast is not finished but was temporarily used for positioning  

 

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This will be the inboard color scheme. The Gunwales are black; Thwarts, Thigh Board and Cuddy Board are dark brown.  The Stem and Stern Sheets, Lion’s Tongue and  Logger Head are Golden Oak stained.  Two other colors, as seen here and in earlier photos, are buff and blue.C77473BC-6E12-44BD-B475-A0D7F66526E6.thumb.jpeg.3f52ab9d80c9fa40c271760366703edc.jpeg

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Finished carving and attaching the Peak Cleats, Oarlock Pads  and Foot Brace.  Also, I decided to remove some of the dark brown paint from the thwarts. I used lacquer thinner which gave the thwarts a “worn” look which I like. Photos don’t do the  “look” justice.0CBE2841-D8F2-421A-B3DF-0C19A67DA1B1.thumb.jpeg.321e5796b4df2e02fdf994de384e7866.jpeg
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Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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