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G.L.

Day gaff sailing boat with center board by G.L. - scale 1/10 - SMALL

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23 hours ago, vaddoc said:

Beautiful! Will you paint the hull Geert?

Thank you Vaddoc,

Yes, considering the poor quality of the planking, I will paint the outside of the hull (cream color above the waterline, bordeaux color below). The rub rails and transom will be varnished as well as the inside of the boat.

23 hours ago, Bedford said:

There's some very nice work going on there and I'm really enjoying the difference between your traditional type of boat and my modern glued lapstrake design.

Thanks Bedford,

An other difference is that you make a model of a real existing boat, mine is an imaginary vessel.

20 hours ago, AndyG said:

This is really lovely! And she'll come even more alive as you start fitting her out, internally.

 

Andy

Thank you Andy,

I will start with the outfitting story next week.

2 hours ago, mtaylor said:

I've been following quietly, G.L.   Beautiful work and I'm also picking some tips.  

Thank you Mark

2 hours ago, Ab Hoving said:

An inspiring build!

Thanks Ab, I guess you have known the spiritual father of this gaff sail boat, Mr. Jules Van Beylen?

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Before continuing the inside of the hull, I will paint the bottom. The application of masking tape is more time consuming than the painting itself. It needs three coats of paint to be opaque.

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When I remove the tape the edges are not as clear-cut as I hoped.

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Fortunately, when the bottom boards are in place it is not that striking.

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Now I will varnish the sides above the bottom bards, anon when the risers are placed the surface of the sides will not be so accessible anymore. The masking taping has to restart now on the other side of the line. Because some stringers and risers have to be glued on the frames, I varnish now only between the frames. Later I will do the frames together with the stringers and raisers.
When the varnish is dry I glue the port stringer.

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To make sure that both stringers are at the same height I measure the height of the top of the port stringer in some spots ...

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... and bring it over to the starboard side.

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Both stringers into place.

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The heights of the risers is even more important those that of the stringers because they will bear the thwarts. Two of the thwarts will rest also on the centre board case.
Measuring the distance between the centre board case and the gunwale ...

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...and bringing it over the according frames.

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8.6 The risers

The risers are long 5x5 mm oak bars. The upper side has to be as much as possible horizontal to give stable support to the thwarts. The frame to which the risers are to be glued are in different inclinations according to their position in the hull, so I shed one side diagonally at the ends and gradually less towards the middle. I do this a bit on the feeling, but the result is not so bad.

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Gluing the riser into position.

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When placing the starboard riser. I check if the height of the risers are equal to that of the center board where the thwarts will come.

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Thank you to follow.

Thank you for the likes.

And thank you for the constructive comments.

 

Till next week!

Edited by G.L.

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On 11/2/2019 at 11:17 AM, G.L. said:

When I remove the tape the edges are not as clear-cut as I hoped.

There are different types of masking tape.
For every surface there is a tape with a different adhesive strength. The blue tape of the 3M company (my employer) gave me the best results for this purpose.
With only some small errors here and there that needs to be repainted afterwards (Scraping off with a knife and thereafter repainting)

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And, great work GL.

 

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On 11/2/2019 at 3:57 PM, KeithAug said:

lovely work - it looks just like the real thing.

 

On 11/2/2019 at 8:40 PM, Jim Lad said:

Just catching up.  You're doing a really nice job there.

 

John

Thank you Keith and John

 

On 11/4/2019 at 8:59 AM, Backer said:

There are different types of masking tape.
For every surface there is a tape with a different adhesive strength. The blue tape of the 3M company (my employer) gave me the best results for this purpose.
With only some small errors here and there that needs to be repainted afterwards (Scraping off with a knife and thereafter repainting)

And, great work GL.

 

Thank you for the info on the masking tape, Patrick.

 

On 11/6/2019 at 3:34 PM, FriedClams said:

As Keith stated above - this model does look like the real thing.  Nice meticulous work on the stringers and risers G.L.  She is looking sweet.

 

Gary 

Thanks Gary

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8.7 The thwarts

To determine the shape of the aft thwart I lay some small shelves across both risers.

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Then I make periphery cards of both sides out of rigid drawing paper.

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And also one of the middle part.

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I tape the three cards carefully together without shifting them, draw the shape of the thwart and cut it out.

My first template is ready.

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I make in the same way templates for the other thwarts.

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I make a photocopy of all my templates with the cover of the scanner up, lake that I have a nice contrast.

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The templates can now been glued on the wood and be sawn out. The three forward thwarts.

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The aft thwart is a little more complicate. For this one I start with gluing three pieces of 3mm oak together.

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The I glue the template on it and saw it out.

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The forward thwart serves also as mast support and pin rail.

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Overview of the thwarts.

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All thwarts are strengthened with vertical knees. The forward mast bench even has four. The make them I fit also first paper templates which I use to saw out the knees.

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The knees provisionally set on the forward thwart.

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All the knees are glued in place and varnished.

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8.8: The cleats.

Like on all sailboats some cleats have to be placed. I make them from fruit wood (I believe apple).

I don't believe the making process needs a lot of explanation. The pictures show everything.

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The cleats around the helm area:

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Thank you to follow.

Thank you for the likes.

And thank you for the constructive comments.

 

Till next week!

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I just started following your build and the photos and explanations are “incredibly” helpful. I’ve gotten many good ideas and methods of working. Thank you...Moab

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