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marktiedens

HMS Vanguard by marktiedens - Model Shipways - scale 1:72

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Thanks Mike!   I think this is the hardest part of the entire build.  The upper strips were no problem since they are applied to the concave area of the bulkheads - the only issue with them is they have to be in the correct position or the stern components won`t fit.  The lower ones are the hard ones since they are on the convex part of the bulkheads - I had to use a bit of "creative" clamping on them.  

 

 

Mark

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Next thing to do is the upper gunport linings.  I glued a number of "boxes" together to serve as gunport linings from the supplied strips.  The insides will be cut at an angle to fit against the inner bulwark & glued in place.  Then the openings in the bulwarks will be opened up - hopefully they won`t splinter too much. Then the outer part will be trimmed off flush with the planking.  Only the linings without lids will be actually glued in place for now - the others will be glued in place after the second planking in order to form the rabbet for the lids.

 

169722549_gunportframes.JPG.f58da68ff10dd3c119e8bdddf81a6e35.JPG

 

Mark

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Thanks Peter:).  All the upper gun deck linings are now done & the 10 (5 each side) without lids were glued in place.  The rest of the linings were put in a plastic bag for safe keeping until the second planking is done.  All those linings are just edge glued & very fragile - I had to re-make a few that broke while sanding them:wacko:.  While waiting for glue to dry I also got the lower stern counter pattern glued on.   I think I will wait until the second planking is done before opening the gun ports in the inner bulwarks.

 

244845694_gunports1.JPG.780d780635682490750d4e4748c1c828.JPG

 

1294603542_gunports2.JPG.b0a0de49b586308cfe008aae1ae9709b.JPG

 

1520165923_gunports3.JPG.8be6582d9777cd656d8e93dbadb511b1.JPG

 

Mark

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Well,I have a slight dilemma - the instructions say to mark the position of the main wale using the full scale hull profile view on the drawings.  The problem is the hull profile view is not at full scale:(.  The only full scale drawings of the hull only show the hull cutaway & deck layouts.  I see a few options - 1)measure from the drawing & add a mm or two  2)take the plan sheet to a copy center & have it enlarged  3)"eyeball"it.  Any other suggestions are welcome.

 

Mark

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Just checked my original Vanguard drawings from my files, and there most certainly are full size hull drawings, more than one, in fact. But this is for the Victory Models/Amati kit. The large full size plans were drawn in a 1000x700mm paper space with the overall length of the hull, including lanterns to figurehead is 847.304 mm.

Edited by chris watton

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Thanks for your reply - the only large hull profile drawing in my plans (other than the hull cutaway & deck layout) is on plan sheet 1 & it measures 720mm from figurehead to lanterns.  to add to that,the bow & stern views on the same sheet are also the same proportion smaller.  I wonder if Model Shipways altered the drawing ,although the sheet measures 1065 x 755mm - plenty of space for a full size drawing.  Anyway,I will figure it out one way or another.  I may just take it to a copy center & have it enlarged - no big deal.  I just have to find a copy place with a large enough copier.   I thought maybe I didn`t have all the plans,but I re-checked & I do have all 20 sheets.

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

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You could find out the actual scale of your full size plan by comparing it (e.g. overall length) with your actual build in 1/72.

  

kit   x   72                = y

plan

 

1             should be your plan scale.

y

 

Now you can take any measurement out of your plan, multiply it by y and divide it trough 72 and find the actual value for your kit.

Enjoy!

Peter

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Update - All the side gallery patterns are on.  A lot of fiddly work ,but they turned out ok.  The stern fascia is just pinned in place so I could line up the patterns properly.  Also, the window framing is not glued in yet - I just set them in place for the picture.   The roof & lower drop decoration will be added after the second planking.  The parts provided for those are plywood & pretty much unworkable,so I will make them from solid pieces of wood - most likely from basswood since they will be painted.

 

2129325943_galleries2.JPG.5376571842f174f1479cf289b56ae77c.JPG

 

514703740_galleries1.JPG.47c82f86cd92bb9354a0cc5add5a78da.JPG

 

Mark

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Hi everyone - happy new year!  Just a small update to end 2019 - second planking is well underway.  The first plank was laid along the position of the main wale as suggested in the instructions.  It doesn`t have to be perfect since the hull will be painted & coppered,but I still want to do a decent job for the practice if nothing else. I am using Chuck`s method to bend the planks using a curved form & heat - works pretty well.  Thanks for looking in!

 

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223837115_planking3.JPG.17469ee0b2cd412387490534530d210a.JPG

 

 

Mark

 

 

planking 2.JPG

planking 4.JPG

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Second planking looks very good. I like the idea of doing a decent job just for the practice although I can see (and know) you have practiced your planking skills before 🙂. What kind of wood is it in the second planking?

 

Regards

 

Henrik

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Thanks guys:D.  The planking is listed as walnut in the parts list,but I don`t think it is real walnut.  Also,they are not all the same width & the edges are quite rough & splintery - took me 2 days to sand the edges smooth enough to use.  The planks are not long enough to reach the full length of the hull,so I`ve had to sort through them & match up the widths for each planking run.  Some of the planks are not the same width along their entire length also.  A bit disappointing since most of the other wood in the kit is of good quality,but it`s not that big a deal since it will all be painted & coppered - just time consuming.

 

Mark

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Hi Mark, I fond your log just the other day, very impressive work and a nice documentation!! I’m also building the Vanguard 1/72 (though from Victory Models/Amati), after fairly slow start (been working and traveling a lot, but I'm now retired) I have and have come to about the same stage of completion ea. the second planking and trying to get the stern gallery in place. which is easier said than done.  I see you  have so far been quite busy, and have advanced much faster than I have been able to. So I'm sure that I will soon be checking how you have solved all issues and problems that seem to come up. 

 

Björn

 

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Hi Bjorn & welcome to my log!  It will be interesting to see the differences in our kits.   I am not always good at explaining what I do,but will try my best.

 

Mark 

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Hi Peter - not sure what post he put it in,so I will just show what I did.  The form is just a piece of wood with a curve on one side with some tabs glued on it to keep the plank from buckling when it`s bent.  I just wet the plank slightly with some water on my finger - no need to soak it - then after setting the plank in the form I use a heat gun to heat the plank.  You could also use a hair dryer.  Chuck uses an iron,but I don`t have enough space between the hold-down tabs to use an iron.  I had to use closely spaced tabs because my planks are less than 1mm thick & would otherwise buckle very easily.  Then let it cool before removing it from the form.  After letting it cool there is a just a small amount of spring- back, but not much.  The heat softens the lignens in the wood,which harden when the planks cool off.  The form is just clamped to the edge of my table.   Hope you can understand my explanation.

 

1683136585_plankbendingform.JPG.94668be75b3124a7d4f570d7d3939669.JPG

 

Mark

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Brilliant! Thanks for the great explanation and thanks to Chuck for the idea! I will try this on my next build as I find the "clinking" affect kinda troublesome. Too much sanding, if you know what I mean.


Cheers,

 

Peter

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