HMS Vanguard by marktiedens - Model Shipways - scale 1:72

[marktiedens]

I know exactly what you mean.  I will admit,though,I have snapped a few planks when bending them - mostly the ones that didn`t have straight grain.  Also,as you can imagine,the harder the wood the harder it is to bend.  Thicker planks of hardwood may need more wetting to ease the bending without snapping.

 

Mark

[Gregory]

18 hours ago, marktiedens said:

Chuck uses an iron,but I don`t have enough space between the hold-down tabs to use an iron.  I had to use closely spaced tabs because my planks are less than 1mm thick & would otherwise buckle very easily. 

I can't argue with what works for you, but did you ever try using an iron without the tabs?  Yes it buckles, but with the iron you can just flatten the buckles out..

[marktiedens]

Nope,never tried that.  I don`t have one of those small irons anyway.  With no admiral here I don`t buy things that need ironing.

 

Mark

Edited January 9, 2020 by marktiedens

[marktiedens]

Another little update - the lower hull is now planked   Not perfect,but will be a good base for the coppering after some sanding.   Thinking ahead,I am wondering if I should put some gloss polyurethane on the lower hull - tape seems to stick better to a smooth,glossy surface (the copper tape supplied has a self adhesive backing).

 

 

 

 

Mark

[Retired guy]

You say "Not Perfect"   I don't agree from your pictures it looks really good Mark.

No idea regarding covering with gloss polyurethane never done copper plating, that is going to come later for me, please let us know how it goes. 

 

Regards

Richard 

[marktiedens]

Thanks Richard.  The coppering is a ways off yet.   The planking looks a little splotchy with glue smears,but will sand out nicely.   I may do some tests on some scrap with different finishes to see which finish the copper tape sticks to the best. 

 

Mark 

[Chuck]

That looks very good.  Nice planking!!! 

[marktiedens]

Thanks Chuck

 

Mark

[AON]

Mark

I attended our local club meeting yesterday afternoon and once again I left having learnt a number of things I otherwise would never have read in a book.

Two of the fellows there are "professional ship modellers" and they seal everything with a water based sanding sealer to fill the pours and protect the wood.

They then sand the work after dried with incrementally fine sandpaper to get the smooth quality desired for a bare or painted surface.

I suspect your tape will stick to this.

 

This is from the makers website: 

EM1000 Universal Sanding Sealer is designed to penetrate deeply into the cell structure of the substrate being sealed, promoting enhanced adhesion qualities. The exceptional clarity of this small particle size resin enhances wood grain color image and magnification. EM1000 dried quickly and is easy to sand. EM1000 can be used underneath all of our interior-grade clear finished.

 

.... and you can get it at Lee Valley Tools!   (Road trip)

[marktiedens]

Thanks for the info,Alan.  That would be quite a road trip.  I may see if I can find something similar locally.  We have a store in my area called the Woodsmith Store which carries most of the same things as Lee Valley plus a lot of exotic woods(except pear & box unfortunately).

 

Mark

[Old Collingwood]

Keep up the Great work Mark,   she is looking really really nice.

 

OC.

[marktiedens]

Thanks O.C. - much appreciated!

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Beakhead bulkhead installed & second planking finished.  Lots of sanding to go yet,then the upper gun deck ports will be opened up & lined.   Pardon the dust - I haven`t cleaned anything up yet.  A little paint touch-up will be needed after sanding.  Plenty of planking strips were supplied - I probably have enough left to plank a small ship!

 

 

 

 

Mark

[Old Collingwood]

That looks mighty fine mark.

 

OC.

[marktiedens]

Thanks very much O.C. !

 

Mark

[fmodajr]

Hi Mark,

 

Looking very nice!

With regard to those yellow painted arches at the bow, over the doors, are they made of wood from the kit or metal or did you make them? They look perfect!!

 

Frank

[marktiedens]

Thanks Frank - those arches are photo etched brass from the kit.  No way I could make them that nice.  This kit has 11 or 12 sheets of etched brass - lots of nice details.  The blue & yellow are not as bright in person as the photo shows - I used a very bright LED lamp to take the picture.  I only have a point & shoot camera,so some of my photo`s are not that good - the range of focus is awful.

 

Mark

[Old Collingwood]

6 minutes ago, marktiedens said:

Thanks Frank - those arches are photo etched brass from the kit.  No way I could make them that nice.  This kit has 11 or 12 sheets of etched brass - lots of nice details.  The blue & yellow are not as bright in person as the photo shows - I used a very bright LED lamp to take the picture.  I only have a point & shoot camera,so some of my photo`s are not that good - the range of focus is awful.

 

Mark

Quick tip with focus  -  most focus systems look for contrast  and will  often focus on the  background  and not the intended  subject (especially with a macro shot)    try to grab focus on something a bit closer that might  make the distance more out of focus  and bring what you want into focus.

 

OC.

[marktiedens]

Thanks for the info,but my camera has no focus mechanism - neither auto or manual.  It only has a switch for either close-up or distant.  Someday when I get around to getting a cell phone I will probably use it instead.

 

Mark

[Old Collingwood]

4 minutes ago, marktiedens said:

Thanks for the info,but my camera has no focus mechanism - neither auto or manual.  It only has a switch for either close-up or distant.  Someday when I get around to getting a cell phone I will probably use it instead.

 

Mark

Just put the focus point  slightly in front of what you want to capture, generally works for me.

 

OC.

[Snow]

Hi Mark love the way you  did  the  quarter galleries  please show me more ,great work Cheers snowy 

[Retired guy]

Great progress Mark 👍

 

Regards

Richard

[marktiedens]

Thanks Snow - The design of the kit makes it relatively easy to build them.

 

Thanks Richard - much appreciated.

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Update - hull sanded & gunports lined & opened up & painted.  The last 3 on the lower deck will be finished up after the main wale is in place.  I probably should have waited do line the last few ports on the upper gun deck, but will just work around them.

 

 

 

 

 

Mark 

[Chuck]

Really nicely done.  

[rafine]

Looks great Mark.

 

Bob

[marktiedens]

Thanks Chuck & Bob & for all the likes.   The paint work is a little messy,but it doesn`t really matter since the hull will be painted black & yellow  around the ports.  

 

Mark

[Retired guy]

That close up pic really shows what a nice planking job you did Mark, like the cut outs as well brilliant 👍

 

Regards

Richard

[marktiedens]

Thanks Richard - could have been a little better if not for the splintery wood,but good enough as a base for coppering & paint  (I am always overly critical of my work).

 

Mark

 

 

[marktiedens]

As I start adding the wales,I need to decide which paint scheme to use.  The plans show 2 different paint schemes - one has the black & yellow following the line of the wales,the other has the black & yellow following the line of the gunports.  The first would be relatively easy with the wales black & yellow between the wales.  The second would require a LOT of masking & trying to get a straight line over different thicknesses.  Since I am not the best at painting I am leaning toward the easier one,which seems to be the pre-1798 style according to the plans.

 

Mark