HMS Pegasus by The_bitter_end - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 scale

[The_bitter_end]

14 hours ago, vulcanbomber said:

Nice shaping there. Good job.

Thanks Vulcan!

[The_bitter_end]

11 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

Ther look really good  - Ithink that is about spot on.

How much overlap have you at the stem ?? You seem to have very little or is it just the angle of the pic.

 

VERY fussy comment - There is one spot which is a teeny bit of trouble - cant remember which BH it is but one of the front needs careful attention or you can end with just a little bit of a "bend" rather than a curve

If you look at your first pic - right hand strip about 2cm below the piece of scrap is there juuuuts a trace of a tighter curve and the same on the oterh side ??

Its not much but just make sure that BH is well faired. Or its may be just camera angle - but many of even the nicest builds havea little sharp curve there

Hi Spy!

 

Thanks for the feedback. You are totally correct, this angle does seem to be a bit of a problem, infact it was way worse before and I managed to coax most of it out but I see now looking at the strips and that photo that its back again. Its actually a relly important point because my feeling is that this build is ALL about the lines and flow. to lose that would be a travesty. I will be sure to apply a bit more time into making sure this is all perfect.

 

As for the overlap I have almost none at all, however I didnt bring the point to an absolutely smooth curve, it comes to a very oblique point. I somehow felt this would make more sense and it fits nicely into the rabbet I will show you what I mean in tonights post(hopefully)

[The_bitter_end]

Day 13/14

 

Another somewhat slow couple of days, I have been putting in a staircase which has turned out to be a bit of a nightmare.

 

I manage to complete final shaping and gluing of the gun ports. I have a couple of points on this process I would like to share.

 

1. I cannot stress enough how important it is to shape these ports correctly and be patient in this process. Soak and bend, soak and bend. This is also a time where you need to accept that some additional fairing needs to be done. I didnt take SpyGlass nearly as seriously as I should have and this resulted in gun ports with a curve that I am not entirely happy with but I will accept due to lack of alternative options.

 

2. The puzzle joint has a mighty sloppy fit and doesn't land on a bulkhead. Most people suggest that you put a filler block behind the puzzle joint to support it. I cant really agrue with this approach but I opted to just superglue and clamp the joint. This has left some daylight coming though but I think it will be fine once it is all planked.

 

3. I originally intended to leave the walnut keel stem off until final hull planking but I realised that the gun ports sort of hook in behind the rabbet cut into the keel. This means that it wont be able to be taken in and out once the gun ports are secured. I therefore Opted to glue the stem in.

 

4. The ply gun ports do get cladded with planking on all faces so I chose to sand down some of the high points of the wavy areas. I am reasonably happy with the final result(bearing in mind that alot more will happen to these strips before the build is done.

 

What is the recommended next step? I see many people plank the Gun deck and other opt to do first hull planking and some do half the gun deck, then plank the hull and then return to the gun deck. I am unsure. Any and all advice on where to progress from here or if I missed anything at this stage would be great!

 

 

[The_bitter_end]

22 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

check the BH fairing there - thats  usualy the issue not teh strip As long as you sit comfortably against the stem and the top edge matches the capping strip its fine.  As I said how much overlap is affected by howfiercely you fair the BHs -

I should have listened better!!!! 😭😭

[The_bitter_end]

Day 15

 

I opted to start with the deck planking to gain some experience in cuting planks etc before proceeding with the hull planking. I will only be going up to the point where I would need to remove the upper portions of bulkheads 5,6 and 7 and will then move onto first hull planking. I dont want to weaken the gun ports by removing these before I do all the hull planking handling.

 

I opted to go for a 4 butt system with a maximum plank length of 118mm. I also chose to go with 2 planks running down the center of the deck so that these planks could run perfectly parallel to the center line of the false deck. instead of trying to line up a single king plank perfectly. This means that with all the cavities in the false deck for the hatches etc the first 8 planks(4 to port and starboard of the center line will have no butt system as there is no single length of plank longer than 118 mm.

 

I then did a couple of tests with marking caulking on the deck planks and opted to go with a artline permanent marker. THere appears to be significantly more bleedout on the one side of the plank than the other so I just placed the planks with the side with less bleedout facing up. This gave me a caulking line that felt acceptable. lets see how it goes once the deck is sanded down. In order to apply this permanent marker I took a small block of balsa wood, cut a slot into it the exact width and depth of the deck plank and then pushed a depression into this block of balsa across the slot. This meant that I could place the plank in the slot, place the tip of the marker on the edge of the plank and then simply drag the plank through the block, leaving a neat marked plank edge. I also found that 2 passes at a fairly high speed worked best to prevent bleedout while still having a decent dark line.

 

When laying the center 8 planks I have started by laying the full length of the plank over the deck and then cutting out the holes for hatches etc. In order to make this process I never laid planks in such a way that I entirely covered a hole that needed to be cut out. this meant that there was always a good starting point available for the cut. Once these openings were rough cut and then fine cut(dont attempt to cut them perfectly on the first pass) then I laid down the next set of planks. I will now wait for those to dry before cutting their portion of the holes out before adding the next set. I hope this makes sense, I am writing it in quite a rush.

 

Any advice on the best deck varnish would be a life saver!!

[The_bitter_end]

19 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

Well that doesnt look at all bad !

Everything seems to line up.  major step

Just quick tip - the nice fancy walnut deck beam  - now you have fitted the gun strips you will find its a really difficlt fit - it goes in by sliding sideways !! And if you  get it wrong the fancy tabs break off which is annoying though fixeable

Thanks Spy! the encouragement really helps, I often feel like this cant be right so hearing that it is is huge.

 

I will be be super careful with all the walnut parts for sure!

[Jolley Roger]

6 hours ago, The_bitter_end said:

Any advice on the best deck varnish would be a life saver!! 

I use Woodoc Interior Matt, made in SA for SA conditions.  Woodoc

Should be available at your local hardware store.

If you are not happy with the bleed out from the artline marker you can try a Archival pen, no bleed out at all! Sakura archival pen

[vulcanbomber]

It's nice to be able to see the lines of the ship appearing, she is certainly starting to turn into a Swan!

 

The decking looks good. I used an oil based Ronseal clear satin varnish. I like the satin as it gives just a nice sheen, without being too shiny. As Spyglass says, the water based versions can react with the ink on the planks, so if you can find oil based, that would be better.

 

 

[The_bitter_end]

On 10/16/2019 at 2:13 PM, Jolley Roger said:

I use Woodoc Interior Matt, made in SA for SA conditions.  Woodoc

Should be available at your local hardware store.

If you are not happy with the bleed out from the artline marker you can try a Archival pen, no bleed out at all! Sakura archival pen

Hi Jolley!

 

Please excuse my very slow response, I had a wedding on the farm last weekend and I am building an onion seed drying facility that is taking up alot of my evenings.

 

Thanks for the info! Do you mix your varnish with tupentine before applying? is there a special process?

 

I was too impatient to wait for the suggested archival pen to arrive but I will get hold of one for the upper decks. As you will see in my next post there was a certain amount of bleedout.

 

 Cheers, Haiko

[The_bitter_end]

On 10/16/2019 at 8:42 PM, vulcanbomber said:

It's nice to be able to see the lines of the ship appearing, she is certainly starting to turn into a Swan!

 

The decking looks good. I used an oil based Ronseal clear satin varnish. I like the satin as it gives just a nice sheen, without being too shiny. As Spyglass says, the water based versions can react with the ink on the planks, so if you can find oil based, that would be better.

 

 

Hi Vulcan and thank you!

 

Its great to get positive feedback from someone with your experience. I will be sure to use oil based suede varnish and test off the model before going ahead. Do you have any pointers on how to apply?

 

[The_bitter_end]

On 10/16/2019 at 3:34 PM, SpyGlass said:

At an early stage I usually only apply a thinned coat of Ronseal satin. Just to hold things in place.

But first stage is to get deck smoothed - see my log for my prefered scraping method. I sometimes put a thinned varnish coat on before doing that

  But watch your varnish some more recent variation are water based and I  have found they can" bloom"  a little

Spy! Good day fellow! It has been too long. I have had an extremely busy week both agriculturally and with guests so I have not had the time to get back to you.

 

I just finished using your scraping method on my decks. It really works a treat!

 

Do you water down your varnish with turpentine and if so how much?

 

Please take a look at my next post and let me know what you think I should  be doing next!

 

 

[The_bitter_end]

Day 16 to 22

 

A week dedicated to planking!

 

I continued to plank the deck using the 4 butt pattern and glueing the planks down with normal PVA and then wiping them clean. I chose to not use tree nails as this is my first build and I felt the risk was too high. I cant decide if I regret having used permanent marker for caulking. It gave a slightly uneven finish to the caulking but it doesnt really feel unrealistic so I am reasonably happy with it.

 

Planks were cut with my home made guillotine and this weird angle cutting set of shears I found online. I dont know what they are actually meant for but they do a decent job.

 

I planked as far as possible without interfering with Bulkheads 5,6 and 7 as they need to be removed at a later stage of the build. I then scraped the deck with a carpet knife as per SpyGlass' suggestion and it worked a treat. I followed this up with a light sandng with 600 and 1200 grit paper.

 

Now come the usual questions.. WHAT NEXT!? do I varnish what I have done so far to protect it? do I plank out the rest of the deck? do I start first hull planking? am I missing some other step? Please help!!!!

 

[The_bitter_end]

A quick side question. Do the vertical components of the area around the aft and forward portions of the gun deck get planked? it seems strange to leave them as ply and MDF? I know the areas around bulkheads 5,6 and 7 get planked but what about the rest?

Edited October 23, 2019 by The_bitter_end
Image didnt upload

[mugje]

you are going pretty fast, good job!

[Jolley Roger]

2 hours ago, The_bitter_end said:

Do you mix your varnish with turpentine before applying? is there a special process?

No thinning required, it is very thin already.  I just apply with a small hobby paint brush and clean the brush with turps.

Keep in mind not to paint any areas where you still need to glue any components.

[vulcanbomber]

10 hours ago, The_bitter_end said:

 

Now come the usual questions.. WHAT NEXT!? do I varnish what I have done so far to protect it? do I plank out the rest of the deck? do I start first hull planking? am I missing some other step? Please help!!!!

 

 

 

There is really no hard and fast rule of how to proceed, it is mainly down to a matter of personal choice.

 

For my first build (San Francisco) I put off the planking as long as possible and did what other things I could first before having the 'courage' to attempt my first hull planking.

On my second build (Pegasus - still in progress) I was happy to do the hull planking and did both planking layers before removing the bulkhead posts and finishing the deck, but I did leave varnishing the deck until I'd done the hull in case glue found it's way on deck, it could then be easily scraped off without damaging a varnished finish. (I didn't thin the varnish down, it was runny enough for me, but experiment with a mock up and see what suits you best.)

 

10 hours ago, The_bitter_end said:

A quick side question. Do the vertical components of the area around the aft and forward portions of the gun deck get planked? it seems strange to leave them as ply and MDF? I know the areas around bulkheads 5,6 and 7 get planked but what about the rest?

 

Again, it's down to personal choice, but for completeness I planked the area on my Pegasus - I know it's there even if it it isn't easily seen!

 

Edited October 23, 2019 by vulcanbomber

[stuglo]

What a wonderful "community" where a newbie feels free to ask and others give of their time and experience to help .( and when we all can learn alternate ways to do things).

Two small points- my current build, Hanna, is the first I used "wipe-on poly" / I find it very good for larger, simple areas, but not so successful with a brush.

Previously I used teak oil . Incidentally I was never happy with imitating caulking, but by oiling both hull and deck planking, the effect was obtained.

PS your do-it-yourself tools are clever and I certainly will try and copy the flexible vice.

[The_bitter_end]

22 hours ago, mugje said:

you are going pretty fast, good job!

Thanks Muggie!

 

Im loving it

[The_bitter_end]

20 hours ago, Jolley Roger said:

No thinning required, it is very thin already.  I just apply with a small hobby paint brush and clean the brush with turps.

Keep in mind not to paint any areas where you still need to glue any components.

Thanks for the tip. I will bear that in mind. This does complicate things somewhat but im glad you warned me

[The_bitter_end]

18 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

I thin my varnish with white spirit NOT turps - I am such a rotten painter that I get blobs with thick finishes ! So even my final coats are a bit thinned - also stops me getting that shiny finish that seems to appear in places using bog standard wayter based Ronseal satin .  I repeat my warning  about there being water based and oil base - i dont get on with water based stuff.

But i really am such an awful painter - dont stick too carefully to my words !

 

You really dont need to plank the hidden areas - they really cant be seen.

 

WHAT NEXT you ask

 Well I would remove the BH tops amidships and complete the deck as a unit to a first level finish. 

They hull is fairly solid even when they are removed but just be aware later when you are second planking to ensure the curve of the top of the strip matches the capping pieces. may need just a " jiggle" 

(I have in teh past on a differernt build cut  some scrap lenegths and fit them snugly "push fit" acroos the vessel next to the BHs  befroe removing the tops. Then they can be used as a later reference - but it realy isnt  necesary to go that far !)

 

Then check your fitting of the keel and stem bits and any arrangement you are making for mounting. And check your "thinning" of the keel to the stem

And then start bending planks for first layer.

 

Great advice as always. I will be following that advice and finish the deck planking first. I will also leave the varnishing until a later stage. I actually think this may improve the lines of the vessel as there is some indentation between the BH's.

 

I a a little confused by what you mean about thinning the keel? are you talking about the rabbet?

 

I look forward to showing you my progress.

[The_bitter_end]

12 hours ago, vulcanbomber said:

There is really no hard and fast rule of how to proceed, it is mainly down to a matter of personal choice.

 

For my first build (San Francisco) I put off the planking as long as possible and did what other things I could first before having the 'courage' to attempt my first hull planking.

On my second build (Pegasus - still in progress) I was happy to do the hull planking and did both planking layers before removing the bulkhead posts and finishing the deck, but I did leave varnishing the deck until I'd done the hull in case glue found it's way on deck, it could then be easily scraped off without damaging a varnished finish. (I didn't thin the varnish down, it was runny enough for me, but experiment with a mock up and see what suits you best.)

 

 

Again, it's down to personal choice, but for completeness I planked the area on my Pegasus - I know it's there even if it it isn't easily seen!

 

Hi Vulcan!

 

I think I will do what you did with your first build and get as far as possible building skills before attempting the hull planking.

 

Park of this skill building can be planking those areas that are hard to see. Will there be enough planking material to do this supplied with the kit?

[The_bitter_end]

11 hours ago, stuglo said:

What a wonderful "community" where a newbie feels free to ask and others give of their time and experience to help .( and when we all can learn alternate ways to do things).

Two small points- my current build, Hanna, is the first I used "wipe-on poly" / I find it very good for larger, simple areas, but not so successful with a brush.

Previously I used teak oil . Incidentally I was never happy with imitating caulking, but by oiling both hull and deck planking, the effect was obtained.

PS your do-it-yourself tools are clever and I certainly will try and copy the flexible vice.

Hi Stuglo

 

I couldnt agree more. This community has genuinely given me faith in humanity. Every single person on here has been kind, polite and helpful without exception. Despite my remarkably rookie questions.

 

Thank you for your input. I didnt even consider using a wipe on system but im liking the idea.

 

If you would like some guidance on how i built this clamp please let me know. The swivel locking system is essential and in my case its a bit of a weird system.

 

Now im off to look for your build logs!

 

have a great day

[stuglo]

I would very much like some extra details to build a similar device ( I like your steamer but cowardice leads me to continue with a kettle with occasional hair drier -for which I no longer need  for its proper use!)

[vulcanbomber]

13 hours ago, The_bitter_end said:

Will there be enough planking material to do this supplied with the kit?

Yes, more than enough to plank the inside of the bulwarks. I used some of the left over strips of wood to plank the interior of the bulwarks and to create the Captains cabin and the furniture within it on my Pegasus!

 

 

Edited October 24, 2019 by vulcanbomber

[The_bitter_end]

21 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

PS Wipe on - is thinned varnish - just that !!

 

I put a coat of thin varnish on the deck anyway - it sort of hold is together andreduces accident damage effects and reduce any risk of catching a splinter.

 

Indentation between bulk head ???  where - there are always a bit of iregularity where the ports are - but not a problem  - remember you will be planking  and that should allow you to fair out any slight wiggles

That makes lots of sense. What are your views on varnishing the deck before planing the hull? vulcanbomber expressed concern about getting glue on it and JolleyRoger said he was concerned about glue not sticking to varnished surfaces.

 

 

[The_bitter_end]

15 hours ago, stuglo said:

I would very much like some extra details to build a similar device ( I like your steamer but cowardice leads me to continue with a kettle with occasional hair drier -for which I no longer need  for its proper use!)

Hi Stuglo

 

I will put something together with drawings etc and send it through to you. I have had a rather busy week but it will happen soon.

Cheers Mate!

[The_bitter_end]

14 hours ago, vulcanbomber said:

Yes, more than enough to plank the inside of the bulwarks. I used some of the left over strips of wood to plank the interior of the bulwarks and to create the Captains cabin and the furniture within it on my Pegasus!

 

 

Perfect,thanks

[The_bitter_end]

Day 23 to 26

 

I removed the uprights from BH 5,6 and 7 to complete the deck planking. This ended up involving some very fiddly shapes but I really enjoyed the process.

I gave the deck a light scraping with a carpet knife blade and left it at that for now. I will finish the first and second hull planking(hopefully) and then go back to the deck. Please, as usual, any criticism is most welcome.

[The_bitter_end]

Day 27 morning.

 

just a quick entry. at this point I decided to attach the walnut keep pieces to complete the rabbet that would capture the first strake of planking. I chose to not sand or shape it at all at this stage so that I didnt do any damage to the final shaped product.

[The_bitter_end]

Good Day folks

 

I have spent the last 24 hours scratching my head about how to do the first planking on this hull.

 

Alot of what I have read says that planks must be tapered? I dont fully understand why there is the need for this. Why not just use full sized planks and then use a stealer for the spaces that are left when complete? Is there a definitive correct method? How should I be approaching this issue?