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Albatros by Nazir - FINISHED - OcCre - Scale 1:100 - first non-solid hull build


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I would recommended great care at the next step": essentially, it involves gluing strips of wood on the deck, trimming off the excess wood and then gluing the (reinforced) deck to the "structure" of the ship (quotes from instruction).

 

You need to sure you use the right strips; go to the "parts" list and make sure the lines/strips u choose match what the instructions say as there are MANY wood strips of different sizes in the kit.

 

I have preplanned this step and have gone through it many times in my mind. I have hit several stumbling blocks: first, I tested laying the deck against the structure and despite my best effort in making the structure there are very small glitches in the fit. I  trimmed a little wood in the notches to get it to fit.

 

Second, while the structure is basically flat, it does curve up a little at the bow. Yet the instructions say to just glue it. As the deck will not hold while glue is drying I will use a clamp.

 

Third, after I line the deck with the strips, the strips are supposed to face upward based on my reading of the instructions (ie become the top of the deck).You need to drill holes through the strips I glued wherever you see holes in the deck (see pic in Step 1), including the long oval hollow piece at the bow.  (instructions don't say). But u do not have to carve at the notches as I dont see why that would be relevant.

 

Stay tuned to confirm all this works

 

 

 

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After completing the the lining and the gluing of deck(s), I have the following observations:

1. It is really important to preplan use of the (Ramin) lining. The kit comes with very little spare lining so use it parsimoniously. I would suggest that to line the main deck, the bulkhead and the quarter deck you use 20 pieces of the lining (each is .6*5*400). First cut off 310 mm for the main deck (not 320 as instructions suggest, as 310 is more than  adequate). The rest, 90mm, will be enough for the bulkhead and quarter deck--with some scraps left over for miscellaneous use)--- Note: I realized after I completed the hull that I was wrong about my concern--there was more than enough lining...sorry!

2. Line the bulkhead the way I show in the pic. I did it the way shown in instructions and the (small) extra width from the lining threw off the fit of the main deck to the hull so I had to painstakingly remove the excess lining (which had been glued already!) and the result is shown in the pic. This worked.

3. For the gluing of main deck and quarter deck you will need lots of clamps; I hadn't planned on it. my 24 hr Amazon Prime along with a good sale (about $5 each) helped.

4. Also,while instructions don't say, dont forget to drill the holes (both round and oblong) thru lining after gluing lining but before gluing maid deck to structure/hull.

5 Finally, many thx to all who have given suggestions. They are greatly appreciated.

 

Nazir

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  • 2 weeks later...

You are off to a great start!!!  Welcome to the forum.  One thing I would suggest with this kit is that you fill some of the space between those bulkheads.  This is a well known kit for having the bulkheads spread too far apart which will make planking more difficult.  At least maybe at teh bow and stern areas below the wales.  I look forward to your updates.

 

Chuck

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First Failure then Success!

 

After completing  the bulwarks I have the following notes/observations:

1. The instructions do not tell you soak the bulwarks before gluing to the deck. YOU MUST---several times! I did it three times but wish I had done it more; because after I started gluing I realized the front of the bulwark was not bent enough; and as I had already put the lining it was too late to soak in water  again. Also, I used pins too often and the integrity of the front part of the bulwark was compromised. So I ended up using a screw to hold the glue in place ...then removing the screw after glue had dried. I did this on both sides. Again, learn from my mistake; wet and bend and clamp --as many times as needed (also it is hard to clamp front end of bulwark--I don't know that I have a real solution.

2. The final result of all this is shown in a pic---I have not shown front as it needs some work after the "butchering" it got from the screws but as most of it will be covered with lining I think it will look ok -- only u know my secret.

3. Now it is time for the planking....from Chuck and others I am told this will be really challenging. I plan to follow their suggestions that I add some support chocks and also try to split planking so it is not a single piece that goes all the way across. I am not sure I will be able to manage without the nails but I will try. But I have learnt the hard way that wetting, shaping,  clamping, sanding and repeating all this many many times is a core principle in these steps......ignore at your peril....otherwise u will be dead (i.e. walking the plank) later, so to say!

 

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Thanks to Chuck for the great videos. While I have tried to followed his advice re: adding chocks, I probably did not add as many as needed simply because it was really difficult to sand them down as part of the fairing process. In addition, I have been using the pins on the planks against his advice because for the model I am working with it is virtually impossible to hold the plank in place while glue sets in without pushing the pin through the plank into bulwark. I hope Chuck will understand! I am confused about one issue: can I use a pin vise to push the pin into the bulwark or is a pin vise basically a (micro) drill? If latter, where can I get the small gadget that is used to "push" the pin into the wood? When I google pin vise it is basically the drill that shows up .....which I assume cannot double up as a "pin pusher"?

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If you can afford a small rotary tool, such as a Dremel, I highly recommend one. A pin vise gives you very precise control when needed, but for repetitive drilling tasks, such as drilling pilot holes for pins, a rotary tool is very nice to have on hand. And of course a rotary tool can be used for a variety of other work as well -- I have even used mine for some household fix-it tasks.

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  • 4 months later...

I would appreciate some help. I am having a devil of a time with the lining of the hull. I think i may be using the wrong kind of glue. The instructions had called for 3 kinds of glue : carpenter's for parts that dont offer resistance; Fast-drying for "almost instant" setting and Cobbler's/contact for the veneers. The last is what they recommend for the lining. I have attached a pic of the 3 glues I used/substituted for these (couldn't find exact match at Home Depot for 2 of 3): Elmers carpenter wood glue, Gorilla Super Glue (for "instant") and Clear Gorilla Glue (for "contact" glue); the last is what I have been using for the lining. I have attached a pic of the glues and one of how I have been Jerry-rigging the lining to hold it in place while the glue dries. Very improvised and not as much contact as I'd like. Plus I have to wait 12 hrs for each strip to dry before adding another one etc..

 

Would love thoughts from the ones who know of how I can de better for the rest of the task.

Stay Healthy!

Nazir

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Planking was never my strong suit.  I use straight pins to hold planks in place while drying.  
 

However, Chuck Passaro has a great guide/tutorial to planking on this site.  He is one of the absolute best at planking.  I plan to try his methodology on my next build.

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After I started using Gorilla super glue, the second planking proceeded much better; one side of the hull is done...here is pic. I can start picturing the hull when completed; definitely not a work of art but in many ways I learnt a lot and am determined to get better; many moments of sheer joy! Thx to all who have been giving advice and encouragement.

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After switching to Gorilla Super glue for the second (veneer) planking, I tried PVA (Titebond Quick and Thick) as the fumes from the super glue were getting to me; PVA worked like a charm...wish I had discovered this sooner (lots of folks on MSW recommend it).

 

At this point the hull is basically complete. I can honestly say I have made every mistake in the book; here are some examples:

1. Not paying enough attention to fairing; result: mistakes in alignment and curvature of hull. Used some 3M sanding sponges but not sure what grit they were...and didnt have enough patience to do it right; tried to cover up mistakes with plastic wood but this didnt prevent the second (veneer) planking from being uneven as well...some of the plywood (first planking) shows through --see pics---and makes it look like a newbie effort (which it is)

2. using super glue on second planking instead of PVA..some glue oozed out and discolored the veneer of the second planking.

As a result of above I am thinking of filling in gaps in second plank with Minwax wood dough and staining the current walnut-looking veneer with a Minwax mahogany stain (dont have walnut--have some mahogany in garage)...see pics of before-staining look...so far I give myself a D grade but a B for effort...IMG_0517.jpg.1105102100490181c9b3fa394a93bca3.jpgIMG_0516.jpg.33f5b059e820379f0a54123e25ef4fb6.jpgI have spent at least 50, maybe as many as 100 hrs on this model and I am only about half-way done BUT there have been moment of sheer joy and am already thinking of my next one!!

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I would appreciate some help re: what glue to use to glue the wooden piece that goes below the bowsprit (see pic); i have done the best I can with sanding but the two pieces do not fit flush against each other---touch in places and very close in others; I assume some glue work better in such situations than others.

 

Any help is most appreciated. I have PVA (Titebond) and Gorilla super glue but am willing to order another and wait to do this if so advised.

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The 3 critical mistakes I made in the building of the hull are:

1. inadequate attention to fairing; this was entirely my fault...there was enough warning on this from MSW folks. I recently saw a video of a modeler fairing using the Dremel 8050 drill---made it look so easy..I think I will get one.

2. not correctly doing the first planking (plywood); I connected the "paired" pieces ie from the two sides of the hull instead of just bringing them up to the center keel piece and stopping short of having the two planks touch each other; in all fairness, the illustrations in the kit were misleading.

3. Using the wrong kinds of glue and too much of it...Ive gotten much better at this and now that the hull is done I think things will move more smoothly--see pic from today below

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I badly need help on the next step in two areas. I am starting to put the deck "furniture" so to say and beginning the first steps in rigging/masting.

1. On the first there are a number of "pins" and "eye bolts" that go in different places with different thickness to the wood in each place. Yet all the pins and eye bolts supplied in the kit are of the same length,  and often longer than the thickness of the wood. Am I supposed to cut the pins/eye bolts down to an appropriate size? And should I drill a "starter" hole to facilitate the hammering of the pin or eye bolt

2. Re: masting/rigging this is my first time and there are virtually no directions in the manual on the basics of how to do this. I am winding my way thru MSW but could use help on some "key" articles on this topic

 

Thx

 

 

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Hello, Nazir. For the eye bolts, yes, definitely cut them down to the length you need -- which really isn't very much in most cases. A little dab of your Gorilla Glue will probably suffice to hold one snugly in place. And do drill starter holes.

 

As for rigging, I'm not sure what you mean by "basics" -- surely there is a plan sheet in the kit that shows mast and spar dimensions, and another with rigging details? Since the kit is supposed to represent an "American schooner," you might look for Lennarth Petersson's Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft; it contains an entire chapter on rigging a Baltimore clipper.

 

Cheers!

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Mr Coyle (apologies if I got this wrong):

 

Thx very much for your prompt reply. I will follow your suggestion re: eye bolts and pins. Re "basics" I am attaching two pics that I hope will give examples of what I mean. In the first, I am not sure how to tie the knot to make the thread tight and secure (should I add some glue at the end...if so which kind...diluted PVA? and where do I "dab" it?).

In the second pic I have no idea how to construct the "steps" i.e. rungs of the ladder so to say...how to construct the red horizontal lines so they look neat and tidy and secure?

 

Hope this helps you get a picture of what I need to learn....Thx again

Nazir

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Hi Folks:

As those who have followed my build know by now, it has been a tough slog. But I am entering a much more enjoyable phase now. Why you may ask? The answer is "Tools I wish I had Bought Sooner". When I was growing up in Calcutta, India, a friend introduced me to Western music (both pop and classical). One record that I remember buying (vinyl of course) was Bing Crosby's "Songs I Wish I had Sung" in which he paid tribute to popular songs of other artists like Al Jolson (April Showers), Nat King Cole (Mona Lisa), Bob Hope (Thanks for the Memory) and others. On that theme I give my tribute to "Tools I wish I had Bought Sooner". I recently splurged and bought the following:

1. A Dremel 8050

2. A Zona razor kerf saw with mitre box

3. A hand spring-loaded drill

4 Sanding sticks from Zona

 

Every one of these tools has made it MUCH easier to do the tasks and I am really enjoying the process much more.

 

One question: One of you recommended a book on the basics of rigging. Are there one or two articles with illustrations that would show me how to tie the basic knots in the rigging process that any of you can recommend?

 

Thx

 

Nazir

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So the model is almost ready for the rigging and installation of masts and I think I will take a break and spend some time learning about tying knots and other topics in rigging. I am quite pleased with how things are going right now--see pic--- but feel the rigging will be overwhelming--hope I can make it through

 

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  • 1 month later...

Well folks..I am finally hopeful that I will finish this model -- my first (see current status in pic). I have started the rigging. I have two questions and two suggestions:

 

Question 1: Some of the pulleys have one hole and some have two. The instructions are clear on which goes where. But they are unclear on one point. Am I to assume that if a pulley has two holes, the thread should go into one and come back through the second? And that if there is only one hole then you just bring the thread back? What is the significance of one vs two holes? (Follow up----I think I figured it...the two holes seem to serve two different purposes)

 

Question 2: As the finished model is being passed on to my grandson, I would like to enclose it in a plastic/plex case so he doesn't drop it and destroy 8 months worth of work. Can I buy one or build one easily (any plans?)

 

Suggestion 1: Many of the holes in the pulleys are not "cleanly" drilled and the thread will not go through easily. I would suggest you use a drill to widen the holes just a tad before mounting them. 

Suggestion 2: I would also first put the thread thru a needle before putting needle with thread thru pulley hole---much much easier esp in hard to reach spots! 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I have finished the ratlines and have started the rest of the rigging. My big question is: Should I "belay" each line as I complete it OR just number it with blue tape and wait till the end to belay it. I have only finished about 20% of the rigging and was using the blue tape approach but am wondering if it will all be one tangled mess when I finish. Any advice would be appreciated.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well the sails are up (see pic) but I am having a devil of a time "belaying" lines. Am using a tweezer but can't get the pin to catch the thread from below per a you tube video. Do I need another tool or is there a compromise that is acceptable?

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Nazir, one of the best tricks for rigging tasks is to make yourself a set of homemade rigging tools. There's two that I use frequently. Both are made using a bamboo skewer and a sewing needle (purloined from the wife's sewing kit). I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut half of the eye from one needle, creating a Y-shaped fork. On the other needle I cut a notch into one side of the eye, creating a C-shaped hook. Then I used CA glue to insert each needle into a pre-drilled hole in the end of a skewer. The Y-shaped tool is used to push lines into tight spaces; the C-shaped tool is for grabbing and pulling lines. These tools are indispensable for tasks like belaying lines.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have finished the Albatross....just cant believe it; almost gave up at a few points. Thanks to all who gave advice and encouragement--this is a great community. Here is a pic. I will be writing more detailed notes on dos and donts and what I liked and did not like about the model but couldn't wait to let u know I finished it. THX!!!

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