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mtdoramike

Typhoon by mtdoramike - Dumas - here we go again

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WOW Tim, she is beautiful and that shade of green below the boot topping at the water line really sets it off. I was on the fence about using the same shade of green that I used on the seats for the bottom of the Typhoon and maybe going with a different color altogether, but after seeing your Miss Severn, I'm going to use the same shade of green. 

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I ordered some mahogany veneer and finally got it in today. I'm going to use it to cover the front and middle cockpit floors. The instructions call for staining it, but I think it would look better with the mahogany veneer. 

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OK, after studying the issue of the rudder access door being under the stern section of the boat and attached with screws and with the possibility of water being able to get in through it, I have found a probable solution. If I remove three supports in the stern section behind the rear cockpit, I can mount the rudder servo and be able to access the rudder from the top and eliminate the access door from the bottom of the boat. The modification will be where the blue tape is located. I will have to make the access door for the top of the stern, but shouldn't be a big deal (famous last words) hahahahaha.   

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Edited by mtdoramike

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Hatch on top totally makes sense to me. A hatch on the bottom of the hull? Wow, never heard of a deal like that before now, and I would do just like you, search for a more viable alternative.

She's looking great!

Can't remember where, but I once followed a complete build of this boat and that's what convinced me to buy one for myself. It is a stunning, beautiful boat when it's finished. The build I followed was a static model and not for R/C. 

I would like to build one with an engine bay and a mock-up of the engine. Static scale.

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CD, It may have been this build thread from a Radio Control forum. The OP and builder Legendary Pat Trittle did a splendid job on one of the first production Typhoons. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?291645-Dumas-Typhoon-Kit-Review. If you can't tell, Pat is kind of a hero of mine and I only wish I were as good a modeler as Pat Trittle, maybe one day. 

Edited by mtdoramike

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OK, I bit the bullet and started the modifications to the stern by removing two of the rear frames. The critical part of this is, how many bulk heads need to be removed because you have to be able to mount the rudder and still have room for the drive shaft and prop. Ideally, it would be nice to have at least a 1/2" between the rudder and the prop. 

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I'm replacing the two pieces (K7 & K6), which goes on the bottom of the stern and K6 is supposed to be removeable to allow access to the rudder arm, but since I'm making a new access panel on the top, this is no longer needed. So I'm replaces these two pieces with a solid piece of plywood. My main issue was to make sure I was going to have enough clearance between the prop and the rudder since I was moving the rudder forward about 1/2".

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There should be enough room for the motor and the prop. I ordered a Graupner 600 motor for her. It looks like it is going pretty well right now, but one thing I have learned in my old age is, ( for every positive action, there is always a negative reaction and I'm sure there will be one here, but it hasn't shown itself yet.   

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Just now, mtdoramike said:

hahahahahaha, everything. Don't you mean malarkey?  

😄😅

 

One day I'll have to tell you about the time I accidentally turned the sprinkler system on while the marching band was on the field for the half-time show at a big football game. Who woulda' thunk it?

 

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I started the first layer of planking with the balsa strips. I did what I usually do to most kits and that is to take scrap pieces of wood and beef up the frames, which are 1/8" plywood in order to make them 1/4" which gives me a wider surface to lay the planking as well as more of a gluing surface.  

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I have the first layer of planking done on the hull with just a bit of cleaning up to do on her. Dumas provides a couple of templates to use to cut the bow and stern blocks from some hard wood or at the very least hard balsa for the nose and rear of the boat. Once glue dries, you have to sand down the blocks to form the contour of the hull.

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Posted (edited)

Happy New Year to you and family as well, yep I have been cat scratch busy the last week or so, but I try to spend at least an hour a day on which ever build I'm doing at the time. Now sometimes I will spend the whole hour just looking at the build and trying to decide if I want to build a certain area like suggested by the instructions or do I want to modify or change it LOL.  

Edited by mtdoramike

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