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Jim Rogers

HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Jim Rogers 1/48

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I have started my Winnie journey. Guys looking at pictures don’t really get how big this girl is. WOW! I ordered Chuck’s Laser cut bulkheads, former and Chapter One and Two components. Here is a shot of the bulkheads.

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I am waiting for my Hobbyzone building slip to arrive Thursday. So on Sunday I downloaded the 40 x 30 drawings and Chapter One to a USB stick and made the trip to my local Kinkos to get them printed and As Rogers luck would have it an issue arose. When opened the 40x30 are saved 8.5x11. I know this should not be an issue and Kinkos should be able to handle it. The operator said the only way to print them was by “ Fit to page”, she printed the First one and I checked the scale with my tiny pocket measuring tape and the scale looked spot on. I get home and I am cleaning up char and on a whim just happened to place the aft end former on the drawing and it was off waaaaaaaaay off. So I took my nuts on Woodpecker 6 inch rule and put it on the scale. As you go from left to right you can see a slight change in scale. By the time you get to the end it is 1/16th. The bulkhead is a full 1/4 off. I brought the drawings back and of course they blamed whoever made the file. I told them that was not possible as at least 50 people had downloaded these drawings and if it were a problem with the drawing it would have been fixed. Then she said she could fix it but I needed to know the percentage of enlargement. Any help on this will be appreciated. I don’t understand the difference between the scale error and the plan error or why they can’t do a full screen rendering, adjust the scale and then print. But then again I am not a professional printer.

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These people are just not bright.   They must be printed with no scale......I just dont understand.....ugh.  "as in document"

 

Let us know how it goes.  Chuck

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Hello Jim,

 

I took my usb drive to Gig Harbor Copy and Print on Judson St. (3110 Judson St. Gig Harbor, WA). Just print full size. They did a fantastic job. Also had them printout Chapter One on 32 pound paper, much easier to handle in the binder I put together for this build.

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Okay heading back for round four. I will tell them print with no scale as in document. This is a former Kinkos now a FedEx. Been a Kinkos for years with a FedEx attached. 

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I went to Fedex Office and I had the same problem printing the plans, I did not return after the second time they printed wrong ... now I build this frigate that is 44 inches long, I think I am in 1:35 scale.(on the right,another frigate,1:48-36 inches)thumbnail_20191022_1901291.jpg.0cc50cbde3cf2f61c9462d3969389ecf.jpg

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I had the same issue with my drawings, I even brought my stainless ruler to check scale and it appeared ok but when I fitted my aft bulkhead former it was off exactly as yours above... if they would just let us run the plotter! Very frustrating.

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BF1 BF2 and BF3  are the are the small pieces at the bow...BF1 is just 3/64" thick cedar I believe.   

 

hmswinchelseaimage1.jpg

 

You can see BF 3 in the photo......BF2 and 3 are 1/4" thick laser cut ply.  BF1 is cut from cedar on your 3/64" thick sheet.  Its shown on the framing plan.  Ask these questions in your log as more folks might have the same question.  Not on my profile.  I can actually see them on the plan hanging behind your model.  Upper right side.  They are on either side of the stem and frame where the bollards will go.

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Good start.....but yes you have a long way to go with that fairing.  It takes a while but will make or break whether or not the product is successful.   Just take it slow and steady.

 

Chuck

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Yupp....if you put them in now and dint line up the notches for the stern frames correctly it will force the stern frames left or right.

 

i found that it was best to add them after or during the stern frames are installed.  But that was just my impression after having done it once before.

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Anyone use a bandsaw for cutting strips? Seems it would be easier and more accurate than a mini table saw and having to move the fence for each cut.

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1 hour ago, Jim Rogers said:

Anyone use a bandsaw for cutting strips? Seems it would be easier and more accurate than a mini table saw and having to move the fence for each cut.

I'm sure everyone has tried everything once, but I'd say there's no way you'd ever get better results from a bandsaw over a good (i.e. Byrnes) table saw. (There are ways of efficiently moving the fence for each cut, BTW.) 

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Why do you move the fence on a Byrnes saw? I must be cutting my strips the wrong way, I mill my billet to the desired plank width and rip strips off the end at the thickness I need - move the billet not the fence?

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1 hour ago, Chuck said:

I do the same thing Lou...it works for me.  I just set the fence once and start ripping.

Well now if I can just get my planking methodology to emulate yours I’ll be all set! 😁

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Jim, how do find the building slip?  I have thought about getting but would value your advice.

Reg

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