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Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue


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If it sounds like hammering, the blades are dull.  (By the way, never plane wood that has any kind of finish on it - that will destroy blades.)  

If there are longitudinal lines on the wood, then the blades are nicked.  It may be possible to shift one blade slightly to one side so that that blade will compensate for the defect.

 

It's possible to hand plane to thickness.     Below, you can see how I planed a guitar backplate to 3/32" (2.3 mm) by this technique.  I placed 3/32" plywood on either side of the rosewood, roughed it down with the No.4 plane, and then used the No.6 plane to plane to final thickness by riding the toe and heel of the plane on the plywood, with the blade cutting only the rosewood.  The paste wax on the soles of the planes greatly reduces friction and allows me to put most of the work into cutting the hard rosewood.  The wax does not cause any problems with finishing or gluing.  I've also planed to 1/16" by placing plastic laminate (e.g. for kitchen countertop) on either side of the stock and then passing the plane over all with the blade cutting the only the stock.  Thus the laminate controls the final thickness.    

shavings.jpg.8287eaaf9a2da3d752758b42126c2b9a.jpg

 

Edited by Bob Blarney
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Here is a handplaning jig that may be more applicable and convenient for you.  It's possible to make this type of jig adjustable for any thickness that you desire.

https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/thickness-planing/

 

The easily adjustable jig:  https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-72513-precision-planing-jig/

Edited by Bob Blarney
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HI Chris. After ten years my Proxxon Planer transfers a very small longitudinal line on the wood.  I assume one of the blades is nicked. I seem to recall there are two if them and swapping them out was a pain. But I can't be without my planer so I shall order a new set as well. I see they're only $10+ on Amazon.

Greg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not familiar with this particular jointer, but It's possible to make or buy a block of wood with neodymium magnets embedded in the surface.  These will hold the blade at the correct height while cinching down the locking screws.  Another source of very powerful magnet is from disassembling an old computer hard disk.  You'll also obtain a very very flat mirror-polished disk that is an excellent front-surface mirror.  I use it for various things, but that's another story.

Edited by Bob Blarney
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Sorry, Chris, can't help. I have my new blades but was holding off changing them because of the problems you're having. Hope you get your planer back to spec!

Greg

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Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Greg, since you have one, take a photo and sent it to Chris.  It might give him a better idea of what's needed.   I take it the instruction manual is silent on this?

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
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Chris - have you tried the Proxxon service center? They were  responsive to a previous service issue: https://www.proxxon.com/us/service/technical_request.php. If they can't help let me know and I'll photograph the blade positions. They're also reversible so, technically, you can just reverse them. 

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Chris, the cutting edge of the blade should be flush with the fore edge of the piece holding it in place. Should be a continuous angle from edge of cutter to holder. Photo should make it clear. The cutting edge protrudes about 4 mm from the holding piece. Hope this does it for you!

 

DSCN8395.thumb.JPG.a3ab9cbde349901a3b0868fc99713f36.JPG

 

 

Greg

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Admiralty Models

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Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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It’s fixed !!!! Thanks Greg - this tool works really well in conjunction with the Byrnes Thickness sander - I’m still getting a tiny bit of chipping - but it’s much more efficient to use the planer to reduce stock and finish off with the Brynes tool.

 

My French Pear could be the culprit - I do notice it has a tendency to chip when carving if not careful  - it’s pretty wood though 

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Happy to hear that, Chris. Mine leaves a perfectly smooth surface, finer than the 180 grit papered disc sander. See if you et the same result on another hardwood.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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  • 1 year later...
On 11/21/2019 at 1:10 PM, ChrisLBren said:

Thanks for the feedback ! I read in the manual that the blades can be reversed if they are dull or simply replaced for 10 dollars. I agree Greg - I love this machine it works really well in conjunction with the Byrnes Thickness Sander but much more efficient to dimension wood. 

Wow, you just made my day. I have a Proxxon thicknesser but I need to thickness to .6mm and it doesn't quite meet the mark. So I have just ordered a Byrnes Thickness Sander from US. Should get it next week. It came out at $390 dollars but the shipping to UK was a bit expensive @ $198 but Hey Ho. In for a penny in for a pound as we say in UK :)

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This past week, I just finished changing blades on my jointer.  I will get the. Old ones resharpened.  The cutter head for my Rockwell jointer looks exactly like the one on the Proxxon planer posted above.  Two tools drastically simplify the project:

 

First a dial indicator on a homemade stand.  By rotating the cutter head by hand the dial indicator tells when the cutting edge of the blade has reached top dead center.

 

Second, something to fix  the blade at top dead center while the blade is being changed.  In my case I made a simple plywood clamp to immobilize the drive pulley.  My jointer is belt driven, so this may not be necessary for equipment with integral motor drives.

 

With the cutter head immobilized at TDC, the old blade is removed, the blade channel is cleaned and the new blade is installed and very lightly clamped with the clamping screws.  The dial indicator indexed at zero relative to the outfeed table is then used to adjust the blade until it registers zero at both it’s right and left sides.  Some experts recommend setting the blades .001in higher than the outfeed table.  

 

If all this is done correctly all blades will be set at the same height and  parallel to the outfeed table.

 

I realize my Rockwell jointer is not a Proxxon planer but the principles should be the same.

 

Finally, properly sharpened blades are wickedly sharp.  Be Careful!

 

Roger

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