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Anatomy of a boat by G.L. - FINISHED - scale 1/10 - POF - SMALL


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8. The cockpit coamings

While making the rail at the portside (see part 7) I made also the coamings around the cockpit.
Round the opening of the cockpit comes a coaming to prevent the flooding of  the water which is splashing over the deck .
I draw the deck rounding on the forward and astern plank with the same template that I used to draw the deck beam shapes.

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... and saw them out.

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Fitting the forward plank.

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Gluing the planks.

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The reinforcements of the after corners of the coamings are at the same time bollards.

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The two forward corner pieces are just reinforcements.

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The model in its current state.

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Thank you for reading

Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

and thank you for your constructive comments,

 

Till next week

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Looking great G.L.  The decking turned out very nice and the scarf joints in the gunwale and covering boards are a good looking detail.  Always a pleasure catching up.

 

Gary

Current Build   Pelican Eastern-Rig Dragger  

 

Completed Scratch Builds

Rangeley Guide Boat   New England Stonington Dragger   1940 Auto Repair Shop   Mack FK Shadowbox    

 

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Very nice Geert, I will have to follow your lead on my next fishing smack.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Thank you Gary and Michael!

 

It are weird days! Since yesterday noon Belgium went into lockdown. Our youngest daughter left for a three weeks trip to Thailand with her boyfriend ten days ago, just before the Corona epidemy became exigent in our part of the world. We hope that they can return home without too much troubles. Maybe they are now safer where they are now than here. The good news is that I didn't hear yet of contagions in our family or circle of acquaintances. I hope that that is also the case in our modelshipworld community.

Now that we have to stay home  a lot of time goes to the execution of small jobs with are waiting already a long time to be done and to modeling. During the last days I planked the hull:

 

9. Planking the hull  

 

Once again: this will be a dissected model, so only the portside will be planked and even in that port side I will omit some strakes.
I start with the garboard.  To determine the shape of it, I lay a straight and flexible lath around the hull at the height where I want the have the upper side of the garboard.

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Then I measure the width of the space between the lath and the edge of the garboard notch in the keel along the frames and mark it on the lath.

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I draw the frame lines on the plank which will become the garboard. That plank has a straight side. From that side I mark the measured widths on the plank.

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The edge of the garboard is obtained by connecting all the marks with a fluent pencil line. I use a flexible strip of wood and some weights to draw my line.

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After being sawn an sanded.

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Gluing the garboard on the model.

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Between the wale and the garboard come eleven strakes. I mark the strakes on every third frame. Measuring the length of the frame between the wale and the garboard with a strip of paper.

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With the help of a proportion diagram I divide the strip in eleven equal parts...

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and I bring over the division on the frame.

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The upper side of the garboard is straight, so I assume that I can put a strake beside it which has also a straight edge and a curved upper edge. To determine the curve I measure the strake markings on the frames and mark them on the plank, measuring from the straight side.

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With the help of my flexible lath and the weights I connect the pencil marks with a fluent curved line.

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When the plank is sawn and the edge smoothly sanded , it can be glued beside the garboard.

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When I lay my straight lath besides the edge of the just laid plank, I am pleasantly surprised to see that I can make next strake again with a straight side.

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And here it is also glued.

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I am out of long planks, so I saw some and plane them to 2.5 mm. I have no dust extraction system on my table saw therefore the sawing is done outside in a corner of the garden where no one is bordered by the noise and the saw dust.

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Planing them to 2.5 mm thickness.

 

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At this side I stop the planking of the bottom side of the hull. Between the last placed plank and the floor heads thick stuff there will be left open two strakes. I now start the with upper side. The wale is a straight plank so the upper side of the new plank will also be a straight side. The lower side is tapered according to the subdivisions on the frames. On the pictures the plank is sawn, sanded and glued.

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Almost unbelievable: Next to the tapered side I can place again my straight lath so the upper side of the next plank will again be straight with a tapered side at the bottom. Below that plank I will leave again two strakes uncovered.

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The floor head thick stuff (on this vessel that plank is as thick as the other planks).

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The adjacent planks at both sides have to be lofted (my luck cannot last forever). Below a summary of the lofting process of the bottom plank. I use the method as taught by Tony Levine in the Half Hull Planking Project. Instead of tape I use short paper strips to tape along the strake (I am afraid that a 70 cm long strip of pieces tape will deform too much when taking it off the model). Here I tape the paper strips on the model and mark the edge of the strake as well as the frames with a strake subdivision.

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The strip is taken of the model and glued on the plank which will become the strake.

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Measuring the strake width on the model and marking it on the paper strip.

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All the marks are connected with a curved line and that is the shape of the final plank.

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Now it is sawn and the edges are smoothly sanded.

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Gluing the final plank.

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Thank you for reading

Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

and thank you for your constructive comments,

 

Till next week and keep it healthy!

Edited by G.L.
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Thank you for the time and effort it took to post this article.  It is clear, concise and easy to follow.  

This will help a lot of folks including me.

I was unable to find an English version of Apprendre le modelisme naval and my language skills are wholly inadequate or I would be tempted to build along rather than just read along.

 

 

Richard

Edited by rtropp

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Hi Geert

 

A very interesting hull, a lot of volume for a short boat ... & yet the lines are sweet.

 

Is there a risk in the hull being distorted by unequal loads from the planking? 

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As always, well done

 

Corona affects all of us here.
My wife is not allowed to go to work. she is now temporarily unemployed.
I must go to work. The chemical industry is too important for the economie from Belgium 

 

official text :

De federale overheid heeft op 18 maart bij ministerieel besluit de sector van de chemie, kunststoffen en life sciences officieel erkend als een cruciale sector die essentiële diensten levert voor de maatschappij en noodzakelijk is voor het socio-economisch functioneren van het land.

 

(English)

On 18 March, the federal government officially recognized the chemical, plastics and life sciences sector as a crucial sector providing essential services for society and necessary for the country's socio-economic functioning.

 

Time to ask for a raise of my  salary ??;)

Edited by Backer

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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On 3/19/2020 at 4:01 PM, rtropp said:

Thank you for the time and effort it took to post this article.  It is clear, concise and easy to follow.  

This will help a lot of folks including me.

I was unable to find an English version of Apprendre le modelisme naval and my language skills are wholly inadequate or I would be tempted to build along rather than just read along.

 

 

Richard

Richard,

I am glad that my log is easy to understand. I learned English during my school years and used the language during my naval career, but it is not always easy to find the right words to explain exactly what I have in my mind.

I think that the book Apprendre le modelisme naval is only published in French.

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On 3/19/2020 at 10:40 PM, Mark Pearse said:

Hi Geert

 

A very interesting hull, a lot of volume for a short boat ... & yet the lines are sweet.

 

Is there a risk in the hull being distorted by unequal loads from the planking? 

 

The portside will be heavier than starboard, but with the massive tin keel the center of gravity will be below. I don't believe that it will give a lot of problems to fix the model on a base plate.

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On 3/20/2020 at 11:16 AM, Backer said:

As always, well done

 

Corona affects all of us here.
My wife is not allowed to go to work. she is now temporarily unemployed.
I must go to work. The chemical industry is too important for the economie from Belgium 

 

official text :

De federale overheid heeft op 18 maart bij ministerieel besluit de sector van de chemie, kunststoffen en life sciences officieel erkend als een cruciale sector die essentiële diensten levert voor de maatschappij en noodzakelijk is voor het socio-economisch functioneren van het land.

 

(English)

On 18 March, the federal government officially recognized the chemical, plastics and life sciences sector as a crucial sector providing essential services for society and necessary for the country's socio-economic functioning.

 

Time to ask for a raise of my  salary ??;)

Raise of salary, yes, that is an option. Otherwise you might ask to retire. Being 'pensionado', I can recommend it, it feels like your whole life is holyday.

 

meanwhile we are in suspense if our daughter and boyfriend will be able to return to Belgium after their trip to Thailand, we keep our fingers crossed. When they arrive back home, they have to go for 2 weeks in quarantaine. But that is not such a drama; in fact we are in a kind of quarantaine as well for the moment.

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During the gluing of the final plank I pulled the planks together with too much pressure.

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When removing the clamp, I discovered that it left a notch on the upper side of the plank notwithstanding there was a protective board between the clamp and the strake. The nick is too  striking to leave it as it is.

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I cut a splinter of wood more or less in the shape of the notch and glue it in the notch.

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After sanding, this oops becomes less conspicuous.

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During the planking, I marked the frame locations on the hull planks with pencil lines to have an indication where to drill the holes for tree nails. Here the holes are drilled in the garboard and the adjacent planks. After having made the holes, I erase the pencil lines with a pencil eraser because it is easier to do it now than with the nail in it.

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The holes are filled with bamboo dowels which are dipped in wood glue.

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The garboard strake and adjacent are sanded. I squirted some wood glue in the garboard notch at places where a chink was visible. During the sanding the chink filled with sand dust which was fixed with the glue.

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The hull; planked, tree nailed, sanded, scraped and sanded again.

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Thank you for reading

Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

and thank you for your constructive comments,

 

Till next week and keep it healthy!

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Retirement??
Started working at the age of 18. 

I am now 56 years old .
I can probably retire at the age 61. But then I only get part of my pension money
I can actually only retire at the age of 67 to get a full pension.


Fingers crossed for a quick and healthy return of your daughter and her friend.

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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great planking job Geert. I really like the hull lines.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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23 hours ago, Backer said:

Retirement??
Started working at the age of 18. 

I am now 56 years old .
I can probably retire at the age 61. But then I only get part of my pension money
I can actually only retire at the age of 67 to get a full pension.


Fingers crossed for a quick and healthy return of your daughter and her friend.

She just phoned that they arrived in Brussels as planned. Now they are going into quarantaine at home for two weeks.☺️

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4 hours ago, G.L. said:

She just phoned that they arrived in Brussels as planned.

Great news! I’m so glad to hear they arrived safely back!! While half-a-month quarantine is tough, at least you know where they are and you can chat with them!

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Just caught up GL. Great news she is safely back. The boat looks fantastic, I enjoyed going through the planking very much! I am surprised that you had so many straight edges and so little spilling was needed. This is a very elegant hull, pure wood poetry!

 

Bad luck with the crushed wood. 2.5 mm strips can be very hard to bend into place. Did you use any heat? You may have mentioned it but I must have missed it, what wood are you using for the planks?

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On 3/28/2020 at 2:09 PM, EricWilliamMarshall said:

Great news! I’m so glad to hear they arrived safely back!! While half-a-month quarantine is tough, at least you know where they are and you can chat with them!

 

9 hours ago, vaddoc said:

Just caught up GL. Great news she is safely back. The boat looks fantastic, I enjoyed going through the planking very much! I am surprised that you had so many straight edges and so little spilling was needed. This is a very elegant hull, pure wood poetry!

 

Bad luck with the crushed wood. 2.5 mm strips can be very hard to bend into place. Did you use any heat? You may have mentioned it but I must have missed it, what wood are you using for the planks?

Thank you Eric and Vaddoc.

The wood is cherry. It is rather soft to work with, at least a lot softer than oak. And it smells also very good when you saw, mill and sand it. I didn't have to use heat to bend it.

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Geert

She is a very nice choice for a model, certainly not one that has been done many times and a lovely job you have done on her.    Hope you don't mind my question, but did you bevel the edges of the planks at all, especially where the curve of the frames is extreme?   Sketch below shows what I mean.

Thanks

 

Allan

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PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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4 hours ago, allanyed said:

Geert

She is a very nice choice for a model, certainly not one that has been done many times and a lovely job you have done on her.    Hope you don't mind my question, but did you bevel the edges of the planks at all, especially where the curve of the frames is extreme?   Sketch below shows what I mean.

Thanks

 

Allan

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Hello Allan, Thank you for your kind words.

 

Were the frames have their bow to the outside and gaps between the planking can be expected, I chamfer the side l the plank on those spots by scraping the edge with a cutter blade. I determine the angle more or less on sight.extra.thumb.JPG.23c38bf120ae49e56d28d75cb14bbc78.JPG

Before fixing definitively the adjacent plank, I dry fit it first to see if the joint is nicely closed. If not, I chamfer this plank also a bit. Sometimes some pressure is needed to join together the planks (see previous post). In case a small slit appears after all, I fill it with some wood glue while sanding the hull. The glue is fixing the sand dust.

It happened once also that a slit between hull planks appeared a while after the model has been finished. I think that the reason is the difference of atmosphere and humidity between my workshop and indoors home. 

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10. The rudder

On the plans of Mr Gerd Löhmann no rudder is provided. 346a.jpg.93986934c6b7ea85610de1bccf800b3d.jpg

I assume that the rudder is an essential part of a boat and that it cannot be missed on an instruction model. Moreover it completes the silhouette of the model. So I draw a rudder plan myself based on the plan of another Breton fishery cutter which I find in the book 'Apprendre le modèlisme naval'.

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I start with making the rudderstock. I turn it on the lathe from a cherry stock.

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The rudderstock has a flat side on the location where  the  afterpiece is attached on the stock. I flatten it with a chisel.

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To make the afterpiece, I glue three planks on a drawing of the piece.

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... and saw it out.

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The final shaping happens by sanding the piece.

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Dry-fitting the rudder on the model. In my opinion the profile of the model looks better with a rudder than without (as you can see: in that stage the hull was not yet planked. I finished the rudder after the planking and found it better to show the making story as a whole).

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The tiller is also made of cherry wood.

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The rudder stock pivots on a metal pin above the heel of the ballast keel.

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Only the pin and the helm port would give not enough support to the rudder. It would also jump out of the pin in a rough sea.  Therefore I add a support ring around the helm stock with will keep the rudder firmly against the sternpost. Two metal bands reinforce the afterpiece and are holding it tight to the helm stock.

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The model, equipped with its steering gear.

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Edited by G.L.
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This completes the build of the model. It can now be varnished with matt furniture varnish.

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This completes also the first chapter of this log.
Next week, I start with the next chapter: The lexicon.

 

Thank you for reading

Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

and thank you for your constructive comments,

 

Till next week and keep it healthy!

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On 4/3/2020 at 2:56 AM, G.L. said:

This completes the build of the model.

Beautifully done G.L. - congratulations on it's completion!  Thanks for all the effort you put into your log to show us how you built her. 

 

Gary

Current Build   Pelican Eastern-Rig Dragger  

 

Completed Scratch Builds

Rangeley Guide Boat   New England Stonington Dragger   1940 Auto Repair Shop   Mack FK Shadowbox    

 

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Thank you very much Retired Guy, Gary and Eric.

This week I start with chapter II of the log.

 

CHAPTER II:  The Lexicon

 

During the build of the model, I kept a list of all parts that I was making for it. I identified 54 different parts that I can name. Some of them appear several times; for example: there are 22 frames, 23 deck beams, ...

I am sure that a ship carpenter will know the name of a lot more pieces, but the aim of this model is to learn a landlubber the different parts of a small wooden vessel (see introduction). I am sure if he knows the 54 parts that are indicated in my lexicon, he will be able to start to converse with us, ship modelers.

 

 

1. The numbers

I thought about a method to indicate the different parts of the vessel on the model by numbers. It should look a bit presentable. My idea was to use the small numbered sheaves that are used in the 'bingo' board game. To distance them a bit from their 'bingo look' I planned to stamp their red side on a cushion with black paint and to varnish them afterward.
Finding bingo numbers turned to be a problem. The bingo games that are sold nowadays in toy stores don't contain wooden number sheaves anymore , they are all in plastic and are no more sheaves but numbered balls that are mixed in a kind of spinning drum system. My quest in the thrift stores and jumble sales in the wide neighborhood (before the Corona lockdown) was  in vain.
Finally I found what I looked for on E-bay  

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I buy them without hesitation. A couple of weeks later I am the proud owner of an old fashion bingo game!
Can you imagine how big my disappointment was to discover that the bingo sheaves were at least twice the size that I had expected?
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If I glue 54 such a whopper numbers on my model it will be completely covered. The parts that I want to show will be overlaid by their numbers. That is didactically no so well thought-out.
Now it seems that I can't outsource the production of my numbers, I will have to make them self. This is a forum for scratch projects, after all.
I start with the making of a series of hard wooden sheaves at the size that I want to have.

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I glue them on a piece of paper. That makes the further treatment easier.
I varnish them twice with brilliant varnish.

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Now the moment has come to experiment:
I dilute some yellow paint with turpentine until the viscosity is a little bit thicker than that of ink. With this fluid I try to write the numbers on the varnished sheaves with the help of a calligraphy pen.
It works!  I judge the numbers as acceptable (easy to judge yourself). Now I can make the rest of the sheaves and number them.
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Once the numbers are written and dry I varnish them on top of the writing. That gives them an enamel look.
Here are all my numbers, some are doubled for the parts that will be shown from both sides of the model.
I lay also a couple of bingo numbers for size comparison.

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2. The glossary

 

There will be two glossary lists for this instruction model, one for the starboard (open) side of the model and one for the port (closed) side. My original thought was to place them on the display board at both sides of the model.
One of you, my colleague modelers, gave me a better idea. In his log on the pound naval cannon Allan O'Neil made a display board with an drawer integrated which held the engraved information plate.
Allan, I don't know if you are following my project, but I am grateful to you for your idea!
I will make an display board with at each side a drawer in which will placed the glossary lists. If you want to know what's the name of a part on the model, you just have to open the drawer and look for the number.

I start with making the top layer of the display board. Just like the model it will be made of cherry. I have no tools to saw very wide planks; my board has to be composed of a series of narrow cherry planks. After they are sawn an planed to thickness, I glue them together.

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The board, sawn to the right dimensions and sanded.

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The board will  be glued on top of an MDF board.

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I prepare the placement of the model. It will be fixed on the board be two long screws The ballast keel touches the display board, but because of the steering load the front of the keel hangs about three cm above the board. I will let it rest on a brass tube of 3 cm long through which goes the screw (sketch not on scale).

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The model on its display board to look if everything is correct, then it can be removed again.

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Around the  MDF board comes a frame which is mitered in the corners. In the groove between the display board and the frame is space for a glass dust case.

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For the moment only food stores are open and it is not possible to buy new window glass, so I use some waste glass plates from an old greenhouse that I demolished and replaced in the garden a few years ago. I cut them to size.

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Gluing the case.

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Taking away the supports is an exciting moment. Will the case fall apart or will it stand... It stands.

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I can even pick it up and turn it straight up.

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Thank you for reading

Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

and thank you for your constructive comments,

 

Till next week and keep it healthy!

  •  
Edited by G.L.
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