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Anatomy of a boat by G.L. - FINISHED - scale 1/10 - POF - SMALL


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The frames are so nice it is a shame to plank them./

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Geert, the hull is really looking sweet, and has very graceful lines.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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On 1/24/2020 at 3:14 PM, yvesvidal said:

Magnifique!!! C'est superbe.

 

Yves

 

On 1/24/2020 at 6:07 PM, KeithAug said:

The frames are so nice it is a shame to plank them./

 

On 1/24/2020 at 6:07 PM, KeithAug said:

The frames are so nice it is a shame to plank them./

 

On 1/25/2020 at 1:23 AM, michael mott said:

Geert, the hull is really looking sweet, and has very graceful lines.

 

Michael

Thank you all for these friendly complements. And yes, I also like the lines of the hull very much. The Bretons knew how to build elegant vessels. It is hard to believe that this boat was even not 7m long.

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5. The deck structure

Before I can start to make deck beams, I have to prepare some more wood supply. I saw some planks with the circle table saw and plane them to 4mm thickness.

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Drawing the deck curve on one of the planks with the help of three nails and a flexible pine lath.

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I saw the beam first with the fret saw...

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... and sand it to the final shape with the band sander. This first deck beam will serve as template to draw the next ones.

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After I sawed an sanded enough pieces to start laying them.

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The deck beams have to be placed with a half dove tail. Drawing the dove tail on the beam.

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After they have been sawn.

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I saw the notches for the dovetails in the bean clamp with metal saw blade which is cut off.

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First deck beam placed.

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The two deck beams which bound the cockpit are placed.

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At the front of the helm port a notch has to be sawn to make place for the deck beam. Here the metal saw blade comes in handy again.

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Continuing to place the deck beams.

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All the deck beams in front and behind the cockpit are placed, time to start something else. But that is for next week.

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Thank you to follow.

Thank you for the likes..

Thank you for your constructive comments.

 

Till next week!

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it is great to see the beams cut from your own wood, nicely fitted as well.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Magnificent work, and great to follow this build 👍.

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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On 1/30/2020 at 9:55 PM, michael mott said:

it is great to see the beams cut from your own wood, nicely fitted as well.

 

Michael

Knowing from which tree the wood came that I used in a model gives me a pleasant feeling.

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Making a template for the breast hook on chalk paper.

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Beast hook sawn and into place.

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Marking the positions of the carlings to support the riding bitts on the deck beams.

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Making the riding bitts.

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Sawing and cutting the notches for the carlings.

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The carlings.

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The riding bitts into place. nothing is glued definitively yet. I will probably have to  remove the whole deck structure to varnish the inside of the hull.

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Sawing the mast partners.

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I make an improvised bevel gauge to measure the angle between the transom and the deck for the after deck beams.

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Gluing the after deck beams.

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My modeler friends get to see the model for the first time in this stage.

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Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

Thank you for your constructive comments

 

Till next week

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6 minutes ago, G.L. said:

My modeler friends get to see the model for the first time

And it was well worth the wait. Great work, and a great log.

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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The model is looking great Geert.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bruce and Michael,

Thank you for your kind comments.

 

Some more progress to the anatomy model:

 

5. The deck structure

Behind the rudder post, there are two bollards, on at each side of the boat. I will place only the port bollard. The one at starboard will be omitted to emphasize the carlings which support it. I first make the bollard.

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The carlings which support the bollards are partly made.

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The carlings are made and the port bollard is in its position.

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Between the cockpit and both sides of the vessel there is a narrow gangway. At the cockpit side the gangway is worn by long carlings. Those carlings are connected with the beam clamps with half beams and again with half dove tails.
To take the measurement of the carlings I clamp it with some spruce spacer blocks to give it the correct curve.

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Making the dovetail connections in the beam clamps and in the carling.

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At the end of the afternoon the port side is done.

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Restarting the whole  procedure at starboard side.

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Both sides are done.

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The moment has come to glue the whole deck structure. Before doing that, I want to varnish the inside of the hull because later it will be hardly accessible to do so.
I take out all beams and carlings.

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I give the interior of the hull three coats of mat water-based varnish. Between the layers I sand with grit 320 sandpaper.

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Now the whole thing can be put together again, this time everything is fixed with wood glue.

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When the glue is dry, I sand the whole deck structure.

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The last preparation before starting to lay the deck is placing 'filler pieces' against the beam clamps. I don't know if I am using the correct term in English. In Dutch it is called 'griet'. It are wooden pieces between the deck beams, against the beam clamps on which lays the  seam between the waterway and the adjoining deck plank.

Measuring the length and the angle of the piece.

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Fitting the piece.

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Placing two tree nails in the piece. Sanding it and gluing it into its place.

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After repeating that for twenty two times, the whole port side is done.

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When the glue is dry and my clamps are available again, I can start with the starboard side

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Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

Thank you for your constructive comments

 

Till next week

Edited by G.L.
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A continuing masterclass. Thanks for taking the trouble in explaining the "how" so that I can understand . Please continue. 

current build- Swan ,scratch

on shelf,Rattlesnake, Alert semi scratch,Le Coureur,, Fubbs scratch

completed: nostrum mare,victory(Corel), san felipe, sovereign of the seas, sicilian  cargo boat ,royal yacht caroline, armed pinnace, charles morgan whaler, galilee boat, wappen von hamburg, la reale (Dusek), amerigo vespucci, oneida (semi scratch) diane, great harry-elizabethan galleon (semi scratch), agammemnon, hanna (scratch).19th cent. shipyard diorama (Constructo), picket boat, victory bow section

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Your beautiful work continues - and you seem to progress so quickly.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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How is a wooden ship built?
Trough this detailed lesson i am beginning to understand something of it.

Thanks !!

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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On 2/13/2020 at 7:37 PM, yvesvidal said:

Amazing. Thank you for the very detailed explanations on how you proceed to build the deck.

 

Yves

 

On 2/13/2020 at 8:36 PM, stuglo said:

A continuing masterclass. Thanks for taking the trouble in explaining the "how" so that I can understand . Please continue. 

 

On 2/14/2020 at 7:54 PM, Backer said:

How is a wooden ship built?
Trough this detailed lesson i am beginning to understand something of it.

Thanks !!

 

On 2/16/2020 at 3:27 AM, Retired guy said:

You are explaining this build brilliantly G.L and your build is excellent 👍 

 

Regards

Richard

 Thank you Yves, Stuglo, Patrick and Richard

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On 2/13/2020 at 8:55 PM, KeithAug said:

Your beautiful work continues - and you seem to progress so quickly.

Thanks Keith.

The progress seems to go quickly because I took some weeks advantage with the build before starting this log. In this way I have always something in spare to report in the weeks when I couldn't work a lot  at the model. I like to have a log that steadily progresses. But real time is slowly catching up with me.

It is also a model that builds fast.

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6. The deck

Small reminder: this is an instruction model to teach the different parts of a small wooden sailing vessel. Keeping that in mind, the deck will only be laid partially at the port side. The starboard side will be left open, even without a railing.
Here I will also deviate a little bit from the ship drawing. I am not building the mackerel cutter 'Marie', but I am using the plans of 'Marie' to build a generic instruction model. I think that I can afford this freedom.
The drawing below shows my intention.

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I first make the waterway. Marking the shape of the wale on the bottom side of the plank.

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The outer edge of the plank is sawn, fitting it.

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With the inner edge sawn. I make the plank wide enough to make the nicks for the deck planks.

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The waterway will be made in three pieces. Here you see the two outer pieces. I make them long enough to have a large overlap to make the joints between the different pieces.

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The three pieces on top of each other.

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Marking the spots where apertures have to be made for the top timbers which support  the bulwark. Those top timbers are not a part of the frames. They are short squared bars which are going through the waterway.

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To make the apertures. I drill first a 1mm hole in the corners and then cut out the opening with a wood chisel. The hole that I drilled prevents the wood to split when giving some pressure on the chisel. In any case the cutting has to be done with some care.

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The forward piece:

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Marking the second piece. The holes must correspond where there is an overlap. The decision where to cut the joints between the pieces can still wait a bit.

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The three parts of the waterway are ready.

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I am now looking where I will make the joints between the different parts of the waterway. Here I marked the forward joint of the middle part of the waterway. On the waterways you see also a pencil line, parallel to the inner edge. This breath is the space in where the nicks of the deck planks have to fit.

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Sawing out the joint. I use the vise to saw pure in straight line along the marking.

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The two pieces waterway fit together.

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The two joint of the waterway are finished.

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Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

Thank you for your constructive comments

 

Till next week

Edited by G.L.
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Starting to plank the deck. The aim is to make a dissected ship model, therefore I will only plank a part of the port side of the deck.
I begin with the middle plank on the forecastle.

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One plank follows the other (The riding bitts will not be as high as shown in the pictures. They are not fully pushed down). I 'overplank' the carling of the cockpit, what is too much will sawn off later.

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Once again: this will be an dissected model, so that will be all for the deck planking.

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Now I start the tree nailing. Drilling the holes.

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Before putting the nails, I erase all pencil markings from the deck. Erasing with the heads of the nails sticking out doesn't work so good and it is lethal for the eraser 😫.

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I use bamboo tree nails (they are self made; plenty of bamboo in the garden). The tree nail is dipped in some wood glue ...

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... pushed in the hole ...

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... and pinched.

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Now I saw out the edges of the cockpit...

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...I scrape them also with a cutter knife blade...

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... and sand them.

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Next is scraping and sanding the deck. After it is done (the red clamp at the stern holds a little part of the waterway, which needed some more glue, in place):

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Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

 

Till next week

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You're welcome, Yves.

 

Some more progress:

 

7. The rail

The boat has a low rail, supported by  21 stanchions which are not part of the frames. To be able to place the bottom side of all stanchions on a smooth line, I fasten a lath to mark the level.

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The bottom side of the stanchion is sawn at 45°.

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I insert some wood glue in the stanchion hole ...

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... and push the stanchion into place.

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Checking if the stanchion is standing vertical.

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The stanchions are glued against the inside of the wale. Below deck they are held into place by small temporally wedges between the beam clamp and the stanchion.

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All 21 stanchion into place. They are a little bit longer than needed. The excesses will be sawn when the rail plank is placed.

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Wedges and level lath removed.

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Gluing the rail plank. In between the rail and the waterway I put small wooden spacers to form the scuppers.

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Cutting off the excesses of the stanchions.

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Making the gunwale: I trace the outer shape of the wale on the bottom of the plank from which I will saw the gunwale.

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Sawing the outer bow of the gunwale.

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The outer shape is sawn an sanded. Fitting it.

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Now the inner edge is sawn and sanded also.

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The whole gunwale consists of three parts.

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The three parts have to be joined together to become one gunwale. Drawing the forward joint.

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I use the vise also here to saw the joints.

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Tracing over the shape of the joint on the neighbor piece of gunwale.

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The joint.

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Gluing the whole gunwale.

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Sanding the gunwale even with the wale.

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I glue a thin frame on the outside of the gunwale.

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And also one on the inside. When the glue is dry the edges of the lists are rounded off with sand paper. At the positions of the stanchions the gunwale is tree nailed with the stanchion.

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Thank you for reading

Thank you to follow

Thank you for the likes

and thank you for your constructive comments,

 

Till next week

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Wow GL, I have not been able to visit for a while but you have made good progress! Very nice joinery, nice fairing of the frames as well. Another thing you seem to have tackled with ease is the curvature of the deck beams-I struggled with this myself.

Did the original boat have only one pair of stringers on the inside the frames?

 

Vaddoc

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On 3/5/2020 at 7:16 PM, vaddoc said:

Wow GL, I have not been able to visit for a while but you have made good progress! Very nice joinery, nice fairing of the frames as well. Another thing you seem to have tackled with ease is the curvature of the deck beams-I struggled with this myself.

Did the original boat have only one pair of stringers on the inside the frames?

 

Vaddoc

Thanks Vaddoc,

 

On the drawings of Mr Lohmann there is only one pair of stringers. I guess there will be also one pair of stringers to carry a kind of floor in the cockpit.

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