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Oseberg Ship by KrisWood - 1:25 - Wood - Vibeke Bischoff Plans


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Almost done designing the new jig...

 

Bulkheads:

1122056700_ScreenShot2020-09-19at6_45_33PM.png.d2c8b6ca02a4e37d94e8dbed85fd3a6c.png

 

False Keel:

292561270_ScreenShot2020-09-19at6_44_23PM.png.1c5c004191cc863a6ef49a809be9ca97.png

 

Assembled with keel in place:

1306712802_ScreenShot2020-09-19at6_42_48PM.thumb.png.0d32feccd71bce795481ed5ee8c81a3f.png

 

First five strakes:

1117319037_ScreenShot2020-09-19at6_42_31PM.thumb.png.02795cc0ee0e3ed71ddd21a83d30d7e7.png

 

After the first five strakes are installed I will be removing the bulkheads/false keel assembly and turning it upright.

 

Next steps will be:

1. Design the uprights that hold the keel in place

2. Design the horizontal cutout with notches for the bulkheads

3. Design the strips of wood to go on the baseboard to hold the keel in place when upright

4. Slice the keel into cross sections and scarfs so I can build it up out of layers

5. Print templates and start cutting things out of wood!

 

I'm so close and so excited!!!

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It's the end of the road for CAD work.

 

I'll be losing access to Rhino soon, so here's the final CAD screenshot. Everything else will be photos of wood from here on out.

 

1537387145_ScreenShot2020-09-24at4_39_17PM.png.aa2add076147b165531fd5e24c781be8.png

 

This is the completed jig design. I'm not sure if all of it is necessary, and may not end up building it this way, but it would support both the keel and the cutout. I've also made the cutout opening wider in this version than my last screenshot. The jig height is set up so that the cutout is exactly halfway up the keel and it can be flipped over with zero change in geometry.

 

The bulkheads will only be used in the upside down position while placing the first five strakes. After that I think the hull should be sturdy enough to flip it over and remove the bulkheads and cutout.

 

I've never done this before so please tell me, does this sound like a sane way to build a model?

 

Next step will be printing out all my parts and backing the files up to the cloud for when I'm able to get Rhino again some day.

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Do you want to build the keel from different layers? The only point for me to use a layer is the really complex design of the stemdecoration. If you have a colser look to the original stem you can see that it is very thin at front.

I hope that you need to much time, to start your build log. I am very interested so see, how you proceed.

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Hi @AnobiumPunctatum,

 

 Yes, I’m still planning on building up the keel out of layers. My woodworking skills are insufficient to craft angled scarfs and the T shaped wings of the keel by hand, so I’ll build them up one layer at a time and sand them down.

 

I haven't honestly given much thought to the decorations. They are far beyond my skill level and I'm not sure how I would go about them. I'll give it my best effort, but may very well leave them out for this project. It's more important to me that this boat floats than that it be an exact replica.

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I understand what you mean. That's also the reason, why I didn't start building the Oseberg or one of the other bigger viking ships. The stopped Skuldelev III was a not so nice experience. But I love this kind of klinker build ships.

But before I go back, I will finish my HMS Triton; but this project needs some more years to complete.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finally made more sawdust! Armed with my new plans I thought for sure this time things would work out correctly.

 

Then I started trying to assemble my parts and ran into two terrible errors on two very important thicknesses...
 

I misremembered my keel layers as being 1/16".  They're 1/32". I don't have any 1/32" basswood long/wide enough to make some of the pieces. I'm either going to need to buy some sheets of 1/32" basswood, or I'm going to need to redraw them at 1/16" thickness.


I also drew all my jig parts for 1/8" plywood, but my plywood is 1/4". This means none of the parts fit together. I'll need to either cut all the slots wider than drawn, or redraw them at 1/4".

Back to the drawing board, and this time without CAD. XD
 

 

 

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