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DanielD

Golden Hind by DanielD - OcCre - Scale 1:85 - First wooden ship build - Started 12/4/2019

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Hi DanielD

You planking is fantastic, the work maybe a bit tedious, but it is absolutely perfect. 

Thanks for sharing it and keep up the good work  

Best wishes as always. 

The Lazy Saint. 

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An update on some detail work.
 

Ran into a bit of trouble assembling the deck cannons, the glue I have does not seem to hold (a basic white glue, CA slow & fast, and titebond). After some research, epoxy seems to have the best metal-to-metal bond. Will epoxy work to glue the cannons to the deck? Off to the store tomorrow.

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Patrick, I have attached images from the instructions which shows exactly what I have done. I don't see where I did anything "wrong," at least not for the indicated beams. However, should I shorten the beams, it would move the holes and rope rigging that are currently outboard, to inside the ship wall drastically changing the direction and possible function of the lines/ropes that attach to these points. At this point, to shorten the beams as described, could be done; however, i'm not sure having the lines inboard would look aesthetically pleasing.

 

On further evaluation of your suggestion, another option would be to cut out the inboard section, which makes sense as a person walking on the deck would not have to navigate the big beams. However; making this change at this point would cause a mess. Meaning, I have learned building this model that glue does not stick well to painted surfaces. As such, I removed the stain and some of the deck under the attachment point so that the glue holding the beams to the deck would have a wood-to-wood bond. Removing this section now would leave an ugly hole in the middle of the deck that I would need to repair.

 

This is a level 2 (beginner) model to guide the builder through double planking a hull, planking decks, some fine wood and metal detail work, the use of various types of glue/adhesive and some basic rigging. Although being historically accurate is a good thing, this model by OcCre is not even close to historically accurate or even close to the replica's that have been built. No photographs exist of the 1577 Pellican (Golden Hinde), since the camera wasn't invented until 1888. What few drawings or sketches that I could find are from a distance and one author suggest that we do not even know what the ship really looked like. Additionally, it appears that actual dimension of the Golden Hinde do not agree between sources. Regardless, I chose this model as a good looking fun project to construct and as a skill building exercise for future models. It is after all, the first wood model I have ever attempted and i'm pleased with the work so far.

 

 

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Edited by DanielD
Spelling correction

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What I mean.
These beams are too long and so come together on the deck.
If the building description says so and you want to build it this way. 
Then you can do this. Actually, nobody wont say you're wrong (I certainly don't)

 

I have been working on my GH for over 3 years now.
Building a correct ship from the 16th century is almost impossible.
No plans, of course no photos, only unclear drawings and some hull parts of shipwrecks. 

Only incorrectly built replicas.

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G'day mate  great work 

And remember  your the captain 

Enjoy  and nice watching  your  build 

Cheers snowy 

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Today’s tasks started with a second coat of satin varnish to protect the new paint job and all the additions since the base varnish I applied when the hull planking was finished. Then a few new additions that took a long time as I needed to study knot tying. Today’s knots included the standard square knot, a stopper knot, a double half hitch lashing, a half hitch spiral (came out nice on the anchor), a cinch knot and probably a few more. All in all, a good day...

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Well done 👍

 

An idea.
You still have to start your masts and standing rigging.
I would wait with the anchors until this is done. They can get in the way 

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Patrick, I wondered about that, leaving the anchors until later. I was following the instructions; however, the location for the lashing that holds the butt of the anchor does not exist yet. I held in place with a temporary line that I can easily remove, but if/when the anchors get in the way, I will remove them until later.

 

A quick question though, as I'm starting to build the masts. The cross members appear to be held on with just the rigging. I'm sure this is the case on a real ship, but in the modeling world, do I glue the cross members to the vertical portion of the masts? Or do I just use the lashing that holds the two poles together? I'm sure some use only the lashing while others glue the cross members down. Has anyone done both and have a preference? Does it help to have a more stable mast when doing the rigging? Or does it matter at all. Any advise before I screw it up would be appreciated.

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