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I have found several tools that have migrated from my wood working chest to my modeling chest. The latest is this Japanese flush cutting hand saw that has been a real surprise to me in modeling. I have had other style flush cutting saws but none have proved to be as good as this one. It has a blade thickness of 0.0120 inches or 0.30 mm. It has 2 blade pitches, the finest is about 0.725 inches. There is zero tooth offset and it is incredibly sharp. As with most Japanese saws it is a pull cut. I purchased it from Lee Valley for a few dollars .

Joe

 

 

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   I agree Joe, as I bought the very same saw from our local Wood Crafter shop earlier this year.  It makes a very fine cut and even people with limited strength like me will find that very little effort is needed to make a cut.

Dave

“You’ve just got to know your limitations”  Dirty Harry

Current Builds:  Modified MS 1/8” scale Phantom, and modified plastic/wood hybrid of Aurora 1:87 scale whaling bark Wanderer.

Past Builds: (Done & sold) 1/8” scale A.J. Fisher 2 mast schooner Challenge, 1/6” scale scratch built whaler Wanderer w/ plans & fittings from A.J. Fisher, and numerous plastic kits including 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution (twice), Cutty Sark, and Mayflower.

                  (Done & in dry dock) Modified 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution w/ wooden deck and masting [too close encounter w/conc. floor in move]

Hope to get to builds: MS 3/16” scale Pride of Baltimore II,  MS 1/2” scale pinky schooner Glad Tidings,  a scratch build 3/16” scale  Phantom, and a scratch build 3/16" scale Denis Sullivan.

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Thanx for posting guys. I’ve been looking for this type of saw...Moab 

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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My latest acquisition in Japanese mini saws is this one from StewMac:

Japanese_Curved-edge_Mini_Saw.jpg.9ca57b845e659f5f4265c855186dd91d.jpg

Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw
Item # 3612

 

I am able to do fairly close cross cuts with it with less effort than straight edged saws.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I too have this saw Jaagar. Mine is referenced as a veneer cutting saw and also does a good job of cutting for modeling but does not quite have the "clean cut" of the former one I suggested. You do point out the one thing I like about veneer saws and that is it is easier to start the cut with the one you suggest. I have found that with the Japanese version if I scribe the cut line first the pull sawing is much easier.

Joe

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