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Nina by Emmet - FINISHED - Amati -1/64 - first wooden ship


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3 minutes ago, Rob S said:

Hi Emmet!  I'm responding to your question about the nails in my planks (Rob S: 1/64 HMS Victory by Mamoli). I soak my planks before shaping them to fit on a given section. Once they have been shaped and fitted, I add the wood glue to the plank underside where it will be touching the bulkhead sides, etc.  Then, after applying the glue and when actually attaching each plank, I typically start at the bow and with my 'loose hand' (one not holding the plank in place) I push in a small nail as far as I can and then with a small hammer, tap it home.  I do that for each plank/bulkhead connection as I move aft.  Once the planks are in place for several days, the nails can be removed. The nails were included with the kit.  Finally, be sure to check out Y.T.'s HMS Victory as he is a master at planking and shows the nails as well.  Your build looks great and best in future work! Rob S.

I follow YT and a few others.  MSW certainly helps me understand many ways of doing things.  Thanks for the details. What I was wondering is the size of the nails and the size of the hole. The hole has to be big enough not to split the plank but small enough to squeeze the plank against the hull.  I have use some small nails and removed them. I like the way they work.  But I am still experimenting with various ways.  Rubber bands work great along with push pins.  The problem I have with the push pins is they do not come out easy enough.

Thanks for your help.

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I like straight pins (heavy sewing pins).  I remove them with needle nose pliers.  Use a twisting motion to get them to release.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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27 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

I like straight pins (heavy sewing pins).  I remove them with needle nose pliers.  Use a twisting motion to get them to release.

Thanks for your ideas.  The help you give is very encouraging to us new people.   I have studied most of your pages.

Do you drill at all or do you just stick the needles through the wood?

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I drill with a very small drill bit if needed.

 

I also have a tack hammer that I use (preferred method).

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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On 1/12/2020 at 3:25 PM, GrandpaPhil said:

I drill with a very small drill bit if needed.

 

I also have a tack hammer that I use (preferred method).

Thinking about it a sewing needle is wedge shaped.  I have been using a 1mm drill for push pins and tiny nails.  The push pins do not want to come out whereas the nails are difficult to handle-but they work and they come out.

Thanks again!  Have a good night.

struggling.jpg

miner's light.jpg

01 measure.jpg

02 measure.jpg

03 measure.jpg

nails.jpg

garboard.jpg

plank bending.jpg

plank 01.jpg

plank 02.jpg

filling 03.jpg

soaking.jpg

Edited by Emmet
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
On 1/23/2020 at 9:41 AM, Emmet said:

 

Thanks you

Stern 01.jpg

Stern 01a.jpg

Stern 02.jpg

stern partial.jpg

qtr side.jpg

qtr top.jpg

numbers.jpg

fitting planks.jpg

gap measurements.jpg

Determining size.jpg

Trim planks.jpg

mobile shipyard.jpg

alcohol.jpg

glue w brush.jpg

Shipyard.jpg

Tapering.jpg

Glue and brush.jpg

continuous planking.jpg

Data collection.jpg

Pin vise.jpg

Hawser Holes.jpg

Main dk inst.jpg

gunwhale poppets.jpg

gunwale shaping.jpg

port gun scrap.jpg

port gunwale ok.jpg

pre-staining.jpg

staining.jpg

hatchway frame.jpg

clamped hatchway.jpg

hatch complete.jpg

grating partial done.jpg

grate clamped.jpg

Bitts and belay pin rack.jpg

main mast and pole.jpg

mizzen.jpg

spar sanding.jpg

plank bender.jpg

Masts & spars ready.jpg

Fenders 1.jpg

Fenders 2.jpg

Fret saw.jpg

qtr fender.jpg

gunwales.jpg

Fender screwup.jpg

Qtr & main gunwales.jpg

Prestain.jpg

There is no way, short of paintng the hull, that I can solve the messy work with super glue on the finished planks. I sanded a lot but I am too close to going through the 0,5 mm planks. I could probably do a better job today but, again, with having to install planks that are reduced down to 1.5mm with tapering I have to find an alternative for future jobs.  Perhaps a longer lasting CA glue might give me time to apply the glue more carefully or find a way to clamp the planks.  At any rate I am going to carve the serious blotches, redo and accept it as my first ship.  I do not think a varnish stain would solve the problem.

qtr dk railings.jpg

bulkhead bds.jpg

Bleach & blkhd.jpg

fixtures main dk.jpg

part gray.jpg

all gray.jpg

Burnt umber.jpg

paint result.jpg

ring install.jpg

first deadeye.jpg

more deadeyes.jpg

Beeswax.jpg

more deadeyes.jpg

preparing line for mast.jpg

shrouds test.jpg

seizing shrouds.jpg

spars shaved.jpg

Spar with ropes.jpg

Edited by Emmet
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2 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

What type of CA glue did you use? I think using CA takes a lot of practice, but maybe a gel version for things like planking would help prevent the stains.

Thak you for your interest.

Just as an aside I have looked for details on planking on this site as well as others and found no help.

I started out using Pro CA- medium gap filling by Great Plains. I used toothpicks and poured the glue onto an open surface. The ~12" planks had to be tapered to 1.5 mm and curved upwards as well.  I just could not get the glue (in there) without a mess. I am shortening this comment.  I would apply glue to about 1.5-2 in. press down and wait. sometimes there would just be too much glue and too little. In any event it was not working.  So then I tried using the original super glue wit the small spout.  That seemed to work better but it was still too messy with the small planks.  After that I went to Loctite CA glue with a brush.  That was more effective at getting the job done but still too messy. I went ahead and decided I would sand away. That turned out to just be too much to remove the excess glue. 

Recently I am trying Gorilla CA.  I will put a picture on as soon as I finish this reply.  I found that I had more time with this particular application.  Wheter the nature of the wood is different I do not know. This also not planking which is far more difficult.

I would add that I have built cabinets and other furniture and never had this difficulty. 

For laughs-I confess I used super glue to fix a tooth on a plate temporarily and it worked just fine.

Thanks again

 

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46 minutes ago, Emmet said:

Just as an aside I have looked for details on planking on this site as well as others and found no help.

It can be tricky to find, but it is available here.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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5 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

It can be tricky to find, but it is available here.

I went through most of those if not in detail  I have seen alot on the way to organize planks and the different ways of filling in spaces. But as of yet nothing in detains  about exactly how to apply the CA glue  the planks or the hull.  By and large the detail is missing.  I believe I have downloaded every one of those pdfs.

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6 minutes ago, Emmet said:

I went through most of those if not in detail

Ah. I have used CA on all of my hulls up to this point, but never on one that I intended to leave as bare wood. Leakage between planks and even through the wood itself comes with the territory with CA. On my latest model, I have used a product called Rapidfuse from DAP. I believe it is a CA derivative, but not nearly as messy. It sets in 30 seconds and is completely dry in three minutes. With any CA product, it is important to apply the bead of glue down the center of the plank, because it will spread when pressure is applied. Hope this helps a bit.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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14 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

Ah. I have used CA on all of my hulls up to this point, but never on one that I intended to leave as bare wood. Leakage between planks and even through the wood itself comes with the territory with CA. On my latest model, I have used a product called Rapidfuse from DAP. I believe it is a CA derivative, but not nearly as messy. It sets in 30 seconds and is completely dry in three minutes. With any CA product, it is important to apply the bead of glue down the center of the plank, because it will spread when pressure is applied. Hope this helps a bit.

All ideas are helpful. I see it is about $12 for two 0.1 oz tubes and $19 at Amazon for 0.85 oz.  I will definitely keep that in mind.

I realize skill is part of this as well. As I have said the planks were tapered from 3mm to 1.5mm-tough to find the center.  Often is put it on the plank with the 3mm part and then on the hull for the 1.5mm pieces.  Bear in mind it was the first time I used super glue in this fashion.  Plank planning on the next ship will include working with CA.  I have actually entertained the idea of doing a partial on the first planks and using pva with clamps until forced into CA.  But we shall see.  I am also not at my home base. At home I have more ways of dealing with difficulties.

Let me add that I am enjoying the many challenges of building. There are many more to go.  I just have to see this as a learning process,

Thanks fo ryour help.

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22 minutes ago, Emmet said:

All ideas are helpful. I see it is about $12 for two 0.1 oz tubes and $19 at Amazon for 0.85 oz. 

That doesn't sound right. I got a small bottle (0.85 oz) at the hardware store for about five or six dollars.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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I would recommend going to a physical store for DAP Rapidfuse where it will be cheaper; I see it at Walmart for around $5 and Lowes for about $6 (or buy it online from a different source).

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20 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

I would recommend going to a physical store for DAP Rapidfuse where it will be cheaper; I see it at Walmart for around $5 and Lowes for about $6 (or buy it online from a different source).

Got it .Thanks

Usually I go to Walmart and do a pickup but I did not see it there.  I guess it has to be ordered and shipped.  Thanks! 

shopping pays

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  • 4 weeks later...

 

On 3/10/2020 at 7:59 AM, Emmet said:

There is no way, short of paintng the hull, that I can solve the messy work with super glue on the finished planks. I sanded a lot but I am too close to going through the 0,5 mm planks. I could probably do a better job today but, again, with having to install planks that are reduced down to 1.5mm with tapering I have to find an alternative for future jobs.  Perhaps a longer lasting CA glue might give me time to apply the glue more carefully or find a way to clamp the planks.  At any rate I am going to carve the serious blotches, redo and accept it as my first ship.  I do not think a varnish stain would solve the problem.

qtr dk railings.jpg

bulkhead bds.jpg

Bleach & blkhd.jpg

fixtures main dk.jpg

part gray.jpg

all gray.jpg

Burnt umber.jpg

paint result.jpg

ring install.jpg

first deadeye.jpg

more deadeyes.jpg

Beeswax.jpg

more deadeyes.jpg

preparing line for mast.jpg

shrouds test.jpg

seizing shrouds.jpg

spars shaved.jpg

Spar with ropes.jpg

I need to say that I have many different things going on to accomplish the rigging.  So while my pics look somewhat helter skelter it is all about rigging.

Deadeye explained 2.jpg

Deadeyes for shrouds.jpg

Rigging a deadeye.jpg

Block and tackle.jpg

feeding lines.jpg

Drilling blocks.jpg

B & T.jpg

seizing again.jpg

pin not used.jpg

attaching deadeyes.jpg

ready for base.jpg

Tied off.jpg

pin not used.jpg

parells.jpg

calculation.jpg

mizzzen deadeye setup.jpg

mizzen seized glued.jpg

Pump pic.jpg

pump.jpg

Mizzen b &T.jpg

mizzen sail B & T.jpg

Cu pin for Mizzen.jpg

pole B &T.jpg

pole mast ready.jpg

mast ready for rigging.jpg

connecting deadeyes.jpg

Jean iron 2.jpg

sails .jpg

binder clip.jpg

Rigging plan A.jpg

 

pole sail riggings.jpg

main & Mizz sail rigging.jpg

 

 

rough rigging A.jpg

rough rigging B.jpg

all sails 2.jpg

 

all sails 1.jpg

Port side 01.jpg

port deck good .jpg

NIce sails.jpg

Edited by Emmet
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Fascinating and well illustrated log; I think I can learn from your planking exercise....and other build practices. Very well done.  Looking forward to pulling up a chair, kicking back and enjoying the journey with you.  Hope things get back to normal soon!

Rob

 

active projects: HMS Victory, Mamoli 1/90 scale

 

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Thanks

I meant to say that I invite criticism of my pics and explanations.  It takes some time to portray the work. I try to say as little as possible and I wonder if it is enough.  I am trying to try to lay groundwork about the difficulty in doing the first ship.  There is so much to learn.  I want to be able to look back and review the log when I start my next ship.  I enjoy your log because you seem to be giving more detail than other logs.  The guys who have a lot of experience don't bother with certain details that they learned a long time ago.

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"if in doubt ask is the engineers gospel" - if you want to know anything there are plenty of people who will answer you with a specific question. but we all had to go through the learning curve! there are plenty of books explaining the basics too- local library might have some?

 

Keith

 

 

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I have many books at this point-kindle is useful that way.  I also have downloaded everything that makes sense to me from this site as well as from other sources.  utube works but not necessarily for La Nina. It is good for some general understanding. Thanks for your input.  If you know of a specific book please advise.

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On 4/4/2020 at 10:08 AM, Emmet said:

 

I need to say that I have many different things going on to accomplish the rigging.  So while my pics look somewhat helter skelter it is all about rigging.

Deadeye explained 2.jpg

Deadeyes for shrouds.jpg

Rigging a deadeye.jpg

Block and tackle.jpg

feeding lines.jpg

Drilling blocks.jpg

B & T.jpg

seizing again.jpg

pin not used.jpg

attaching deadeyes.jpg

ready for base.jpg

Tied off.jpg

pin not used.jpg

parells.jpg

calculation.jpg

mizzzen deadeye setup.jpg

mizzen seized glued.jpg

Pump pic.jpg

pump.jpg

Mizzen b &T.jpg

mizzen sail B & T.jpg

Cu pin for Mizzen.jpg

pole B &T.jpg

pole mast ready.jpg

mast ready for rigging.jpg

connecting deadeyes.jpg

Jean iron 2.jpg

sails .jpg

binder clip.jpg

Rigging plan A.jpg

 

pole sail riggings.jpg

main & Mizz sail rigging.jpg

 

 

rough rigging A.jpg

rough rigging B.jpg

all sails 2.jpg

 

all sails 1.jpg

Port side 01.jpg

port deck good .jpg

NIce sails.jpg

This is Emmet. I am finished with La Nna. I will be starting Santa Maria soon. Have to get home.

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