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Hannah by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Scratch Built, Plank-on-Frame, Admiralty Style


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I spent a lot of time cleaning up the frames in preparation for glue up.  But I also wanted to fit the keelson while I could still remove any frame I needed to for tweaking.

 

The keelson comes in 4 parts: two long ones, joined by a scarf, and 2 "extensions" that transition the keelson onto the dead wood both fore and aft.  As I mentioned earlier, the keelson need to rise along the last 5 full frames, but the keelson in the plans is straight as an arrow, with no rise.  After much thought I decided to redesign the keelson.  My first step was to identify where the rise begins.  It turns out that point is between full frames #18 and #19.  So I remade the aft-most piece of the keelson in two parts:  the straight part and the upward sloping part.  After a lot of trial and error, and using a couple of mockup parts, I got it right.  The rising portion of the keelson joins the straight piece at a 3 degree angle!  Now I can go ahead and glue the frames in place.  The keelson is installed after the hull interior is faired. I'll probably simulate a butt joint on the forward long keelson piece, making it look like the long keelson was built up of 4 timbers, not 3.

keelson.jpg

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Hi Dave, I've been checking in on your build for part time for some weeks now. If you don't mind, I'd like to follow your project full time. The Hannah is a possibility for my next build which could start in a couple of months.

 

I have one question. In an earlier post you stated, roughly, the the plans show a flat keel where the model tells you that there should be a slight rise forward in the keel. By that do you mean if you maintain the forward frames fair at deck level, there would would be a growing "non-fair" area in the lower part of the forward frames? That is, how the issue present itself?

 

Mike

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Hi Mike !  Welcome.

 

Actually, the keelson starts to rise in the AFT of the ship over the course of the final 5 full frames.  The aft cant frames (5 pain) have no keelson for obvious reasons.  On my model the keelson rise is 3-1/2 degrees.

 

My plans are an adaptation of Hahn's plans.  If you use the Hahn plans, you should have no keel/keelson issues.

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So I finally glued all the full frames (#1 through #23) to the rising wood on the keel.  The fit is snug, so no pinning or doweling will be necessary.  I do want the hull to be sturdy, so I opted to use epoxy.
A problem with epoxy is that once it cures, it's virtually impossible to remove any squeeze out or smears.  It often makes a mess, even though the bond is very strong.  I like to use Bob Smith Industries Quick Cure 5 Minute epoxy.  It has a 5 minute working time and fully cures in one hour.  I put a little epoxy in the notch on the frame's bottom the set the frame in place on the "saddle" notch on the rising wood.  I weigh it down with machinist right angle blocks for about five minutes.  At that point, the epoxy has set up enough that you can't smear it, or draw it out in stringy tendrils like pizza cheese!  If you take an X-Acto knife, you can pry away any squeeze out from the wood, leaving no residual.  It works well.  I then replace the weights and wait till the epoxy fully cure, then move on to the next.  Slow going, but this isn't a race!  If you plan to use epoxy in a highly visible area, try this technique.  But practice a bit first to get the timing right!
Next up are the bow cant frames
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finished gluing the 6 pair of forward cant frames in place, again using epoxy. Bob Hunt's lofting of the frames is pretty darned good  so tons of fairing won't be necessary. I cut out the blanks for the hawse timbers. I made a practice pair out of pine to check the fit. There is quite a bevel and a lot of waste needs to be removed. I'l trim the inside before fairing the inside of the ship. I'll save the outside for later on.

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Thanks, guys!

 

Once I was satisfied with the steps to make my practice hawse timbers, I made the real timbers out of the boxwood blanks. I refined the fit and set them in place. You can see that the shape is complex. Take your time with this series of steps. Before I glue the hawse timbers in place, I will shape the outboard surfaces so only minimal fairing will be needed later. There is still a bit of wood to hog off of them.

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