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mtaylor

CH-53 Sikorsky by mtaylor - 1:48 - Revell - FINISHED

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OC, I won't go into Tiny Hands.....  :D:D:D

 

Well... I got the guns done and installed.  I tried (with limited success) to match the mount to what we really had.  It was steel tube that fit into two mounts and held in place with pins (removable).  On top of that was another bit of pipe. The gun had a mount on it similar too what the grunts, tanks, B-s from WWII had. You could lift the gun up and carry it off. 

 

No ammo boxes or any real detail as this was fiddly enough for me.  I'm currently mounting the windows, interior and waiting for the glue to dry.    Sorry about the pictures being a bit blurry... extreme zoom and possibly a bit too much coffee.    When I'm finished with this build, I'm going back to wooden ships.... not so fiddly.

 

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Both guns are in, Lou.   I took photos of both sides (inside and out) and them picked the best ones.   The OD is Model Master FS 34102.    I have since found out (too late now) that proper one is FS 16440.  Don't ask me what the difference is... I went by the MK 1 Mod1 eyeball at the hobby shop.  

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I looked up the two colors by number and the 34102 is OD and the 16440 is gloss Gull Gray. Am I doing something wrong?

 

If your aircraft were like ours no two had the exact same color of OD anyway. Even some of the parts like doors and things were a slightly different color sometimes for the Hueys.

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Lou, use the OD.   The problem is, that most of these kits and aftermarket products don't reflect the Vietnam colors but the Desert Wars' colors.

 

The markings are also different.  For example, on the -53 stateside, we had full lettering "MARINES", the Star and Bars, plane number, call sign  which was two letters for the Squadron and then numbers for the bird.  In "Nam".... just "MARINES" on the side but I did find one photo that showed two with the Star and Bars.   The gives justification for that.  I also found that lettering is different colors also.  I'm using the faded black.

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Ours were even simpler. The only national marking was "UNITED STATES ARMY" on the tail boom and aircraft number on the tail rotor support. I can get away with either black or yellow, or even black and yellow numbers and that is about it. Many but not all had some kind of nose art usually the unit black jack crest, a few even had more personal additions like names or artwork put on by the pilots or crew. I would like to do some of that with mine. Face it, the stuff we flew in was pretty much just plain Jane functional.

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Nice work, Mark.  Keep on truckin'.

 

So many topics to study. Most USAF fighters used 4 colors in Viet Nam; the 2 you mention, a dark tan and a dark green. Grey belly and the other 3 colors on top. The grey went away in the late 70s, I think. That's a whole other rabbit hole of study

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with what I've read,  it depended on what time of service the craft was used.  take the B 17.........depending on the segment of service {and what squadron},  the call letters and numbers can be a certain color......early seemed to be yellow.......mid war was black,  and towards the end was white.  some were even white outlined in black or red.  I found that out when I ordered that sheet of letters and numbers........I found out that they had their limitations.......I would have to order additional sheets to widen the scope.  it's the same with the insignias...........JEEEEEE....stick with one banner people.....pleeeeeze! { my rant with the military}  they make it soooo hard on us modelers! ;) 

 

look'in good Mark

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Well, decals are on but only on the fuselage.  I'm still flipping the coin about the sponsons.   Now for the question... what do I put on the decal to kill the shine and protect it?   I have some ModelMaster Flat Clear but it seems to dry a bit milky in the testing.  I'm brushing still.

 

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"Silvering"   is always a problem with  wet slide transfers   I know  everyone suggests putting them on a  real shiny surface  (gloss painted)   then  when fully set  dulled with a flat or satin coat  to choice after.

 

Oh!   and micro sol  and micro set  is supposed to really help  if the surface has raised  areas  or  rivet detail, to help the transfer settle down  as  it softens the decal.

 

OC.

Edited by Old Collingwood

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Next to sheen at all OC.   And after a couple of months in the hot sun, they started fading.  Some had the red/white bands on the tail, others didnt'.  Some had a bit more of lettering, and again, some didn't.

 

Here's a photo of one of CH-53's in the squadron I was in while in 'Nam....  

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This is one that's at a museum.... it's faded also.  This one is an "A" model as no intake filters, and the markings are "colorful".

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Looking like things are moving along Mark. I have heard the same as OC. Apply a gloss coat then decals using Micro Sol & Microset. Then clear coat either dull or gloss and then your final dull or satin coat. BUT I am fairly certain those instructions were intended for people using an airbrush. I really hope Craig has some answers for you.

 

I think I solved my problem with my Huey interior. All it took was more money. :( I hope you have better luck. 

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I got the clear flat to work with some testing.... don't over brush.  Live and learn.   Like you, I've run into a parts issue... not actually parts but painting.  I've ordered the mask for the glass front end as I don't think I'm steady enough to free hand it.  Hopefully it'll be here early next week.

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Mark, I use the MicroScale brand of products, Sol, Set, Flat and Gloss. If the surface is not glossy I brush on the Gloss first, let dry, apply decal using Set or Sol, let dry, then either brush on the Flat over the decal or use rattle can Testors Dullcote and spray entire surface. If you want the decal glossy brush the Gloss on instead. 

 

I think MicroMark carries the MicroScale products.  I've used them for years with good results with airbrushed paint as well as hand brushed paint.  

 

Sol can be used to rescue an old decal that has dried out and is peeling off. Just brush on decal, use brush to press decal back down, then cover with Gloss or Flat when dry. The Flat and Gloss look milky in jar but dry clear.

Edited by Jack12477

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As others have said, the order to follow is: 

gloss coat where the decal is to be placed

microset under the decal

microsol over top of the decal

flat clear coat over decal when it's dry

 

I've run into the same issue with model master flat clear - it dries milky. Tamiya flay clear is my go-to for that purpose. As you said, never over brush. Let the clear settle itself over the area where applied. Otherwise, you will leave brush marks.

 

PS: if you have any Future, it works perfectly as your gloss clear coat under decals and it works perfectly when brushed on.

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Thanks guys.  I was doing more fiddling about the shop last night and I noticed that if didn't mix the flat too well and used the mixture at the top, it worked just fine.   I suspect that this product is meant to be thinned.  And here I was all set to run to the hobby shop today.  I'm happy with the decals now and will start putting it together.  My masks for the glass should be here probably Monday or maybe Tuesday.  I was notified it's been sent this morning.

 

Alan, I had planned on taking off the decals (I have more just in case) if any of the Hail Mary passes didn't work.   I still may have to take them off if I mess them up while assembling the fuselage.  Crap seems to happen regularly.  

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15 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Thanks guys.  I was doing more fiddling about the shop last night and I noticed that if didn't mix the flat too well and used the mixture at the top, it worked just fine.   I suspect that this product is meant to be thinned.  And here I was all set to run to the hobby shop today.  I'm happy with the decals now and will start putting it together.  My masks for the glass should be here probably Monday or maybe Tuesday.  I was notified it's been sent this morning.

 

Alan, I had planned on taking off the decals (I have more just in case) if any of the Hail Mary passes didn't work.   I still may have to take them off if I mess them up while assembling the fuselage.  Crap seems to happen regularly.  

Just keep at it mate   - practice make perfect   and we all  are learning  as we go along  - we are the Big learning club.

 

OC.

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Got the fuselage glued together and taped.  I'll let it dry overnight.   Somehow, I managed to not only knock off one gun but also the mount.  The mount is back in place and I'll hold off doing the gun for now. The mask for the front glass area should be here tomorrow.

 

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1 minute ago, Old Collingwood said:

Looking good mark  - coming together now, same day  posting we both closed up our fuselage.

 

OC.

 

Thanks, OC.   I too will have to put some filler in a few places so we're both steady as she goes.

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I like the effect of the "Texturing" of the OD finish Mark. I don't know if you intended it to look this way but I think it is much better than a more evenly sprayed finish that it would have been if you had used an airbrush or rattle can. I hope I can obtain something like it when I get to that stage. But at this time I am still stuck in the cabin. My new after market PE parts arrive tomorrow, and hopefully I will start making progress again soon.

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Not  intentional Lou.  But I too like the way the finish looks.  I may or may not add some "weathering" if I can figure out how to do it.  

 

Didn't get much done today as doc said today is physical checkup day with labs and tests scheduled.  So I went.    I'm still sorting how to fix seams  and also put on the cargo doors on the rear.   I have a feeling that the instruction book will be ignored for this step.....

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