Jump to content

Recommended Posts

My HM Brig-Sloop Speedy Kit is out for delivery and I am really looking forward to receiving it later today. I have been studying the on line build instructions and have started making notes in my build log book.

 

 I have undertaken a general review my general stock of material and tools and have ordered some items which I am either low on or do not have. I will also invest in a mouse sander and small travel iron in the next few days. I have not used the AK interactive AK174 product listed in the instructions for blacking the copper parts but I will buy a bottle and give it a go as I think it may yield a better end result than my normal painting method.

 

In all my previous double planked builds it has been necessary to mark out a beading line and file the false keel. There was no mention of this for this build and Chris has confirmed to me that there is no requirement to do this for this model and you simply sand down the keel after the 1st planking so the 2nd planking sits flush with the rudder. This seems to be a great improvement compared to my previous builds.

 

I also liked Chris's tip of using a water based wood filler ( natural colour Ronseal) which he then dilutes with a small amount of PVA wood glue and water. However he did say that it is not needed as much for the pear wood as the edges are pretty good.

 

I have never tried Chuck's edge planking method before but have studied his video's and posts. I am intrigued by the edge bending method and can fully understand the reason for it and why it works but I am having difficulty visualising it at the moment.  I don't think it is absolutely necessary for the 1st planking (as it is hidden) but I will use for the 1st planking so I can get proficient with it in readiness for the 2nd planking.

 

The suggested method of pre tapering the bulkheads prior to fixing the false keel sounds really good and something I thought would be a good idea in some of my previous builds. 

 

With the laser cut deck I will probably go ahead and use it but I would like to see how practical it is to cut it up to use some of the more detailed parts in conjunction with normal deck planking.

Edited by glennard2523
Link to post
Share on other sites

My first impression of the kit is very good. The kit was very well packaged, both externally and internally and the quality of the materials looks first rate. The instruction manual is very well put together and the layout plans all look very detailed.

 

The estimated build time quoted in the instruction book is 50 to 70 hours. I plan to take my time with this build so I fully expect my build time will greatly exceed this.

 

Stage 1 - Building Cradle and Dry Fit of Bulkheads 2 to 15 to False Keel
I have assembled the MDF building cradle, which was all I was going to do today. However as this task took very little time I decided to release the false keel (1) and bulkheads (2 to 15) from the MDF sheets and then to dry fit them.

 

I am very impressed with the way the bulkheads slot easily on to the false keel without the need to file, see picture below.

1182517241_DryFitBulkheads.thumb.jpg.7ddf2ff984eb2a46f97925fd9c98ea35.jpg

Time spent of the build is 50 minutes.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Stage 2 Assembly of the bulkheads, lower deck and deck beam supports

 

I did a dry fit of the bulkhead and deck support beams and everything fitted without the need to adjust any of the pieces. The design of the kit makes the build progress very easy as everything fits together so well. The crew are watching the build with interest!

1062163443_0002DryFitLowerDeckandsupportbeams.thumb.jpg.6893dfe659b45948f10e9ba137ec03c3.jpg

As I was very happy with the dry fit I glued everything in place and left it overnight to allow the wood glue to fully cure.  I followed the advice in the build manual and bevelled the edges of bulkheads, 2, 3, 14, 15 and 16 before gluing in place. This, in my opinion, is a great way to go as it made the sanding job so much easier. I also  bevelled the edges of the various filler pieces before gluing on place. I think it will only require minimal sanding to finish the fairing prior to fitting the gun port strips and 1st planking.

1607371909_0005Readyfordeck.thumb.jpg.86850ea83f5e6ad4ce16594a9e1b98ba.jpg

944743210_0006Readyfordeck-1.thumb.jpg.ec159553d0f2caa83146ed332f096880.jpg

The stern frames (30 and 31) have been fitted. These parts are fragile so the stern patterns will be fitted to add strength as soon as the main deck has been glued in place.

302913242_0003SternAssemby.thumb.jpg.9647ac814dbec9a515ce02f5fb35b456.jpg

1446600268_0004SternAssembly-1.thumb.jpg.0616bc9125dfbf7e1edd32bbe00c9db1.jpg

I am now ready fit the deck and I hope it will fit Ok without and need to enlarge the slots but I think it is going to be difficult to assess as one of the design ideas that Chris has added is a slot to hold the deck in place, as seen the following photo.

 

I am a little worried that if I dry fit the deck to make sure it fits OK will I not then be able to remove it so I can then add the glue.

 

I think the deck will require a large degree of bending when it is fitted and I trust I will not snap the deck.

156315650_0007DeckSlots.thumb.jpg.f7246378fb81763f67288b32527488f8.jpgThe crew is still watching waiting for my next move.

651514829_0008Crewwatching.thumb.jpg.8f8f1ba8a1c54a19ea9c3f90601a7413.jpg

Time on the build to date is 4 hours.

 

Edited by glennard2523
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/11/2020 at 5:22 AM, glennard2523 said:

My HM Brig-Sloop Speedy Kit is out for delivery and I am really looking forward to receiving it later today. I have been studying the on line build instructions and have started making notes in my build log book.

 

 I have undertaken a general review my general stock of material and tools and have ordered some items which I am either low on or do not have. I will also invest in a mouse sander and small travel iron in the next few days. I have not used the AK interactive AK174 product listed in the instructions for blacking the copper parts but I will buy a bottle and give it a go as I think it may yield a better end result than my normal painting method.

 

In all my previous double planked builds it has been necessary to mark out a beading line and file the false keel. There was no mention of this for this build and Chris has confirmed to me that there is no requirement to do this for this model and you simply sand down the keel after the 1st planking so the 2nd planking sits flush with the rudder. This seems to be a great improvement compared to my previous builds.

 

I also liked Chris's tip of using a water based wood filler ( natural colour Ronseal) which he then dilutes with a small amount of PVA wood glue and water. However he did say that it is not needed as much for the pear wood as the edges are pretty good.

 

I have never tried Chuck's edge planking method before but have studied his video's and posts. I am intrigued by the edge bending method and can fully understand the reason for it and why it works but I am having difficulty visualising it at the moment.  I don't think it is absolutely necessary for the 1st planking (as it is hidden) but I will use for the 1st planking so I can get proficient with it in readiness for the 2nd planking.

 

The suggested method of pre tapering the bulkheads prior to fixing the false keel sounds really good and something I thought would be a good idea in some of my previous builds. 

 

With the laser cut deck I will probably go ahead and use it but I would like to see how practical it is to cut it up to use some of the more detailed parts in conjunction with normal deck planking.

A build log book, that’s thorough and a great idea. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, glennard2523 said:

I hope it will fit Ok without and need to enlarge the slots

If you feel that the deck is flexing I would highly recommend (based on my experience laying the false deck on my Alert) to check and see if the upper bulkhead gets cut away like it does on the Alert (I assume that they do). If they do slightly sand the interior side of the upper bulkheads to allow the deck to slide in easier. I wouldn’t mess with the slots on the deck they’ll be fine when you get it down.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Stage 3 Fitting Deck Park 36 - Part 2

 

As the test fit with the cardboard template did not reveal any fitting issues I went ahead and installed the deck plank. It went in much easier than I was expecting. After checking all the contact areas I added pins where necessary to keep the deck fully in contact with the supporting frame.

 

Deck Pinned

339606006_0011Deckpinned.thumb.jpg.cc7bf762667f9e4d27d1692a6a98bd79.jpg716006319_0012Deckpinned.thumb.jpg.03922295d1ee46d3b15a498a996cd630.jpg

As I was keen to prevent any damage to the fragile stern frames I also fitted the two stern patterns. The first task was to clamp the rudder in place to ensure the lower stern pattern is correct positioned.

 

Rudder Clamped
206404064_0013Rudderclamped.thumb.jpg.263418e45bebba1d7c0ac3f2d4e86669.jpg

 

I used a mixture of CA and wood glue for the lower stern pattern, using the CA for the curved contact areas and wood glue to seal all the joint contact areas. I used wood glue for the upper stern pattern. Clamps were used to ensure the stern patterns remained in contact with the frame. I did remove the excess wood glue that is shown in the following pictures.

1633524211_0014Sternpatterns.thumb.jpg.6eaebeae4bb0a0e19a51b677d94c0d47.jpg1064908831_0015Sternpatterns.thumb.jpg.e1535b7cde819bdf86233258df30a54b.jpg2117076664_0016Sternpatterns.thumb.jpg.95d20fba1c799b894ea469afa19fb6dc.jpg1775451652_0017sternpatterns.thumb.jpg.55ba04d20f48ede9c36216b3236488ae.jpg

 

Time spend on build 5.5 hours.

 

 

Edited by glennard2523
Link to post
Share on other sites

Stage 4 - Fairing the Bulkheads.

I made my first mistake with the build and fitted the inner stem post prior to completing the fairing. I actually thought the bulkheads were looking pretty good and would not need much more work. The inner stem post was a tight fit and it is not possible to see if this part is correctly fitted to the false keel. As far as I can tell it is correctly fitted. If I doing this build again I would dry fit this part prior to fitting bulkhead parts 17 and 18 and make some pencil parks to indicate when it is correctly fitted. I would then keep it in place, using some tape if necessary, until I need to complete the fairing process when it can be removed.

 

Stern Post Fitted

372397549_0018Innerstempost.thumb.jpg.2e06f62f00cb0d73383a32ef8390c3f4.jpg

Templates

To ensure the bulkheads were properly faired for the gun port strips I decided to make cardboard templates. This proved to be a good call and did highlight that some of the bulkheads required a bit more fairing.

1404747226_0019Gunporttemplate.thumb.jpg.36edd6a59a8c8eb74dddefa27a6466f2.jpg

The template showed that a couple of bulkhead required some more work 

842586764_0020Gunporttemplatefitted.thumb.jpg.06a94b3bb72ba09dfbcfa8ac9ebb299b.jpg

Template is now seated nicely on each bulkhead. I then repeated this process for the stern gun port strip.1103531431_0021Gunporttemplatefitted.thumb.jpg.3433b248a410802648a56de7de8418fa.jpg

Fairing

Once I was happy with how the gun ports strips would fit I proceeded to fair the rest of the bulkheads, using an old planking strip to check the contact areas on each bulkhead. Pre fitting the inner stem post made it a bit tricky but not impossible. It did not take too much effort before I was happy with the end result. Chris's suggestion of bevelling some of the bulkheads and filler pieces prior to installation certainly helped.

910069884_0022Bowfairing.thumb.jpg.bbb405c204f64a0ed43c21ceaef913a3.jpg990488696_0023SternFairing.thumb.jpg.e6e2ef7ef2d1840d30afbed95ed6d5c8.jpg

Total Build Time: 7 hours.

Edited by glennard2523
Link to post
Share on other sites

Did Chris’ instructions call for fitting the sternpost at this stage?  I would leave that off untIl after the planking, it makes fitting planks flush at the stern so much easier. Or perhaps I misunderstood?

Edited by glbarlow
Link to post
Share on other sites

So far basically all parts has fitted perfectly in my kit without any adjustments.  But i had to be sure before gluing the deck in place so i dryfitted it. However, once i popped it into place it was really difficult to remove it again. Smart move with the template. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Vane said:

So far basically all parts has fitted perfectly in my kit without any adjustments.  But i had to be sure before gluing the deck in place so i dryfitted it. However, once i popped it into place it was really difficult to remove it again. Smart move with the template. 

It is always 'heart in mouth' time when it comes to removing the deck after dry fitting. The ply is very flexible, though, so I always make sure I bend the deck almost to a U shape, to clear the slots of the tabs. I did think about splitting the deck in half, but I think the inherent strength of the complete deck, once in place, trumps the minor difficulty on removing after dry fitting.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a major, self inflicted problem, last week. I managed to drop my assembly on to a concrete floor when starting to fit the gun port patterns and damaged the build beyond repair.  I did try to repair it. Thankfully Chris has been able to supply me with the necessary replacement parts and it has only taken my a few short hours to get the build back to the same stage.

 

I have now moved my build area away from the concrete floor.

 

This time around I was confident how the bits would fit together so I went ahead and glued the parts together without any dry fitting. Like Vane I managed to snap off the fragile stern frame patterns (all 4 off them in my case) this time around when I has fitting the main deck. Thankfully I was able to glue to lower stern pattern to the remaining stem bits without any problem. Afterwards I was able to reattached the broken parts. I was then able to fit the upper stern pattern. Fingers crossed the gun ports will be fitted without any problems once the glue has fully cured overnight.

Edited by glennard2523
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Spyglass

I have never dropped a boat before. I am usually very careful. I was shocked to see the damage. The stem post had shattered along the rabbet and although I did try to repair the broken parts there was too much damage to make it possible.

 

No blood on my boats either, famous last words.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Call yourself a modeller - no blood !!!

Drpping boats was one raeson why I had to give up larger models such as Pegasus -  I just got  too shaky !!.

Mind a very early Billings build - ( Lilla Dan ??) virtually disintegrated when i dropped it when I was much much much younger.

 

Whenever feasible I use foam pipe lagging now - round the hull held on with elastic bands and its also why i like to have bolts or threaded rods inserted early in the hull (ready for pedestal stands) - because they are invaluable in temporray fixing to working stand or base . easier  to grasp and less fuss then the fancy building jigs

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have attached the 4 off gun port strips this morning. I soaked the 4 gun port strips in hot water for 30 mins.

 

I started with the bow starboard gun port and located the front end tab in the rabbet slot and then carefully bent the strip around the bulkheads clamping as I went along, ensuring the gun port port strip top edge followed the top edge of the bulkheads.

173939857_024GunportStripBow.thumb.jpg.4ed860095b03f5c56b22df068e2b38e9.jpg

I was pleased to find the back end of the gun port strip back lined up perfectly on last bulkhead. I then used some pins to secure the lower edge of the gun port strip to the bulkheads. I then repeated this process for the port side bow gun port, and once again everything was a perfect fit.

 

The two stern gun ports strips were then fitted, again without any problems.

1589887857_025GunportStripMidships.thumb.jpg.3a260b54d17e1f02984232b47649651e.jpg

Both gun port strips were a perfect fit around the stern patterns. As noted in the instruction manual there will be a bit of sanding to remove the excess strips once the glue has fully cured.

1816832849_026GunportStripsStern.thumb.jpg.81846a298b41cf477d0488af43c5af8a.jpg

 

Once again the precision Chris has taken in design and manufacturing this kit is awesome and makes the task of building this model so much easier.

1322895742_027Gunportstripsclamped.thumb.jpg.ebd37dba31b74c93620c850f83544cb6.jpg891874254_028GunportStripsClamped.thumb.jpg.faba9e39c71f733bfe0256a3df30b761.jpg2014072999_029GunportStripsClamped.thumb.jpg.369ecb6495675c15b64398e2b0405985.jpg

 

 

Edited by glennard2523
Link to post
Share on other sites

While I waiting for the gun port glue to cure I decided to experiment with Chuck's planking bending. I used one of my spare gun port strips as the curve template. Heat was applied to the plank using a hair dryer.

 

Bending Station

1135128400_030PlankBendingStationTest.thumb.jpg.112f90c78ad2d59ad8138fd414603514.jpg

Resultant Bent Plank

1583192486_031PlankBendResult.thumb.jpg.9ce06dbd0134bf68f3553e9887d45cd3.jpg

I also cut some cardboard strips and measured the length of the bulkheads to get an idea of the required plank widths.

1327699179_032BulkheadMeasurements.thumb.jpg.d3aa28dae345ecc33d18819f7201f51c.jpg

I then started work on the planking. After much debate and testing I decided the first plank could be fitted without any tapering. Once again the preformed rabbet slot made the task of test fitting and installation so much easier.

1050104816_033FirstPlankBow.thumb.jpg.ca231b0b67b52748603cc30ea4af5da4.jpg415806831_034FirstPlankMidships.thumb.jpg.bff608afc965086c84743724571b10d8.jpg145755082_035FirstPlankStern.thumb.jpg.d61aa00be74f53aefd93b9b3f73ce950.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve become a big fan of plank bending. I’m using a travel iron as my heat source, quieter and I think quicker. 
 

I even bent planks one way and then reversed it the opposite direction just to see if I could. It worked. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

While I waiting for the gun port glue to cure I decided to experiment with Chuck's planking bending. I used one of my spare gun port strips as the curve template. Heat was applied to the plank using a hair dryer.

 

Bending Station

1135128400_030PlankBendingStationTest.thumb.jpg.112f90c78ad2d59ad8138fd414603514.jpg

Resultant Bent Plank

1583192486_031PlankBendResult.thumb.jpg.9ce06dbd0134bf68f3553e9887d45cd3.jpg

I also cut some cardboard strips and measured the length of the bulkheads to get an idea of the required plank widths.

1327699179_032BulkheadMeasurements.thumb.jpg.d3aa28dae345ecc33d18819f7201f51c.jpg

I then started work on the planking. After much debate and testing I decided the first plank could be fitted without any tapering. Once again the preformed rabbet slot made the task of test fitting and installation so much easier.

1050104816_033FirstPlankBow.thumb.jpg.ca231b0b67b52748603cc30ea4af5da4.jpg415806831_034FirstPlankMidships.thumb.jpg.bff608afc965086c84743724571b10d8.jpg145755082_035FirstPlankStern.thumb.jpg.d61aa00be74f53aefd93b9b3f73ce950.jpg

How do we maintain the preformed rabbet slot for the second planking?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent progress so far. I suspect you’ll have overtaken me before long. I was sorry to hear about your accident, but at least it served to illustrate Chris’s great customer service - from what you say it sounds like he replaced the broken parts very quickly. 
 

I think you’re right to try edge-bending - it seems the best way to go. Using the gun port pattern to get the right curve was a smart idea, though it’s usually good to over-bend initially as the wood will tend to straighten slightly. Like glbarlow, I find  a travel iron works best. It literally flattens the wood, helping to ensure it doesn't bend in a direction you don’t want. 
 

Derek

Edited by DelF
Typo
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...