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HMS TERROR by Wahka - OcCre - 1:75 - first wooden ship build

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Hi all


Intreduced myself in newcomers area and got a suggestion to start a build log.


This is basicly my first real wooden ship build. Started Bounty Constructo 10 years ango and almost finished the hull planking but qualitybwas terrible.


I chose HMS Terror based on reviews and size of the ship. I think it will give me the basics of building and also test my nerve.


At the moment I have finished 1st planking and didnsomeminitial rough test sanding. Im happy with the outcome taken into account its my first build.

Im not uet sure if i paint the model or not. It depends how the 2nd planking looks and feels.


I will probably need help with rigging. Ordered a lot of books about that so hopefully will manage it.


In my mind i have accepted that it will not lookmthe best but it will feels one of the beat builds by being first and beautiful.



1)What glue you use for second planking, would PU based wood glue be ok?

2) Should I apply wood filler before first rough sanding or after?


Here is progress so far:













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Thnx for the referral to your build log, very informative 🙂


I have two questions:


1) I see for the planking you went from nails to push pins, any reason why? I'm asking because to me the pushpin approach seems easier to remove than filing down the nails...


2) Bending the bulwarks: did you use a plank bending tool? If so, which one?

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1) it was easier to insert them and also remove. Plus they push one plank against the other. It was too timeconsuming to insert nails to nailpin also.

2) No didnt use it. I soaked them in hot water and then curved them around a can and fixed with clamps for overnight to give the shape(golden coffecan on the right).

Covered the whole can with planking strips.

Also tried Amatis planking cutting blade (https://store.amatimodel.com/en/tools-and-equipment-parts-per-model/product-form-a-strip-b7381.html) but it disnt suit me. Liked my

way better.



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1) That makes sense, was the reason I was thinking about the same technique.

2) Interesting, how long did you leave them in the hot water? I keep hearing the most diverse times, from 15 minutes to overnight..


She looks great though, thank you for sharing!

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Will start 2nd planking soon.


What glue you usually use for it-pva, pu wood glue or contact glue?

Contact glue probably wont leave any time for adjustments. 
How you speed up the pva/pu hardening process so the plank wouldnt move when installing next one?

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Started with 2nd planking. Did different test with glues and it seems that contact glue suits best for me. Somehow 1st planking is easier for me-maybe hands are too big for thin wood:).
Also tried with pva and heating with plank bender but somehow i cant dose glue just enough that it would mess up everything.

Luckily Terror is supposed to be painted.

Thought that maybe for next build i get little thicker 2nd planking-anyone done that for same reasons?


Pictures of progress:






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10 hours ago, Wahka_est said:

Hi all,


Just funny thing - Admiral at home like also look of the boat but was really psd with all the places covered with wood dust :D.


The trick is to have the place shipshape and bristol fashion before the Admirals inspection...been there many a time..im enjoying your build log thanks for sharing

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Tnx. Lot of effort went into sanding. Even so much that room was apparently covered with wood dust :). Allthough i think i must achive better result next time.

You know it really brings a smile on your face when you finish 1st planking and start sanding - you move your sand carefully over the hull and look for any imprefections.


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🙂 I understand how you feel, I'm working on the deck planking, one diagonal plank at a time. I thought it would drive me insane, but I'm enjoying the focus and the slowness of it all, as well as the joy when you see your handiwork. And wood as a building material is a true revelation, I'd only done plastic before, but the feel and the smell just adds to the experience.

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Almost done with one side. 
today i found sine good local fast drying wood glue so changed superclue to that. Mich better result visually and i have time to adjust the planks. Ends are still fixed with superglue.


Almost finished side i also used 400 sandpaper to see if i could get glue marks out. Got a little better but still visible. 
Any auggestions how to get it better?


Also one picture of 2 projects that got me to wooden ships models. Train is finished but ship needs few more days. 






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Progress so far.


Finished 2nd planking. Needs little sanding. Started with those extensions on side (dont know english word for that).

Also started bending rails and deck profiles.


Seems i should get myself naval dictionary.


Good news is that also recived books about rigging. Have read them and also looked Terror drawings-now feel much more comftrable about that.

Good is that i learn so much aling the way so next build will be much better in quality. 





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No i did it to prevent possible mess with glue. And also To protect deck from stain marks. I needed to stain railing a bit more.

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Hi all


Have made some progress-installed the keels and railings. Also started with small details-thats a strugle cause my fingers are too big.


Need some help-apparently somehow there is hole next to keel on deck olanking. How to fill it so its visually good also?


Regarding Occre instructions-they seem many times unclear and there isnt enough pictures about finished ship. Also some drill hole sizes dont match up etc. But i guess every kit has a problem and eventually you will find a way. And offcourse finally its handcrafted by yourself and modifications are allowed.

I have had my eye on Caldercraft Cruiser and Master Korabel Polotsk. Found a super deal on Cruiser(stock sale) and ordered it. Also friend visited Russia and got myself Polotsk for almost 50% of the normal retail price. Thought if i dont build them then i can always sell them atleast with same price-so lets call it an investement.


Building ships has lead me to think about own house again. Just to have my own room for hobbies soni dont have to collect my stuff every time i finish build for the day. At the moment i share office table with my wife. Cause mu son is only 2 years old i can only build when hes at sleep so progress isnt satisfying for me at the moment:). 

Butnother than that i keep pushing.









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Some progress.


Decided that to paint the hull for this build.

1st coat done on one side. Painted earlier than suggested in instructions. I hope i didnt make a mistake and now copper plating will still glue. I thought i need to paint it first and then but copper to have better visual apperance and then pain again. Also wantes to add brass details to the keel after painting so that they would be visible.

Paint is Admiralty black dull.


Did i make a misktake and now AL plates will not glue?




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Looking good. How do you like the admiralty paint. It looks like it brushes very well.

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I like it. For a newbie its so called safe way so you know you have right products. 
There isnt many brush marks also and i didnt thinner it.

Color is also interesting black with little shine but then also matt. Also it covers wood well. Some builds i have seen have wood showing but i dint have that at all.

My opinion is that when you paint then it should all be covered.

Lets see how it looks when its all painted.



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As i dont have for some reason light blue paint, cant finish the hull-will sort that out tomorrow hopefully.

Maskee everything to paint hull comlotely black. Did some research and also fellow MSW members helped so i hope outcome will be good after thinning the paint and multible coats.


Question-cant find any instructions how should lines from masts be located on the hull. There isnt any dimensions or locations on ship plans. only way would be do convert from not in scale drawings probably. Any suggestions here?




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As im trying to look ahead i got stuck.

I cant find any information where those pieces marked with blue should be located.

Is there some rule that it should be offset from mast line etc?

Cause views are not in any specific scale then you cant take any real dimensions. Or is the only solution to convert it somehow and hope its right?



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