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HMS TERROR by Wahka_est - OcCre - 1:75 - first wooden ship build


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I have just started on the HMS Terror myself. Your build log has been very helpful to me, thanks. Do you have any advice for someone starting out with this kit, or anything you wish you had done differently at earlier stages? Any advice you have is appreciated.

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On 3/2/2020 at 7:16 AM, Wahka_est said:

Hi so the right location would be the blue line?

pilt.png.76f39d121fe210d9ddac5a1a877b017d.png

I am approaching this step also. I posted on Occre's website a question on the location of the chain plate, but I have not gotten a response yet. I may position them at the front side of the mast. You are indicating the back side of the mast here, that would be just as easy to do. I am thinking about putting the dead eyes about 5mm apart.

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Hi All !!! I am Paul Oakley and I am also working on the Occre HMS Terror. This is my second attempt at building a Plank on Bulkhead kit. The first was an AL San Francisco kit that I started over 20 years ago (not finished). There was no internet back then. My son gave this kit to me in January for my birthday. I am learning a lot and making a lot of mistakes too. But, my Terror is progressing nicely.

 

The bump out on the sides of the ship appear to be called "Rubbing Strakes", from what I have seen on the internet.

 

I have completed the second layer of planking and getting ready to put the Rubbing Strakes on. I should get that done this next week. I too, have an admiral to deal with and she won't be happy when I mess up her kitchen to do them. After 45 years of marriage, I have to tread lightly.

 

I posted a comment on the location of the chain plate earlier. I'll post the info here if I get a reply from Occre.

 

Thanks.

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2 hours ago, DaJH said:

I have just started on the HMS Terror myself. Your build log has been very helpful to me, thanks. Do you have any advice for someone starting out with this kit, or anything you wish you had done differently at earlier stages? Any advice you have is appreciated.

Welcome to the club.

Most of suggestions are listed here in the blog. But dont rush and read the insteuctions. There is a lot information missing from instructions and aloy info what you will not notice.

 

Just one thing came to mind-keep bowsprit dryfitted when doing the keel.

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My replacement chainplates have been send out, hope to get them soin. And cause i have to move in one moth i dont want to permanitwly fix masts as it will make moving more difficult. So more progress with Terror probably in June. 

As i have started my second build also (Hms Cruiser) i ran into big problems. All the wood must be replaced besides 1 mast dowel. Replacements have been sent out so hope to get them soon.


So basicly i have nothing to do with those 2 kits. 
 

Luckily i had MK Polotsk on self so i started that. I really like it-all laser cut and fits together well. Below you can see some pictures. Havent taken many pictures.

 

Didnt dare to start 3rd building log as oldtimer might think the newbie hasnt finished any kits yet but allready has 3 ongoing projects - be must be mad. :D
But to pure more gasoline to the fire i took use of Model Expo discounts....and got 6 kits, the discount was just to good not to use it. I can aleays sell them atleast for same amount.

 

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On 3/2/2020 at 6:16 AM, Wahka_est said:

Hi so the right location would be the blue line?

pilt.png.76f39d121fe210d9ddac5a1a877b017d.png

 

Hi, here is a picture of the Navy draught of the "Terror" showing chain and deadeye locations. I located my chainplates according to this diagram. The deadeyes in the kit are a bit larger than scale, so it was difficult to get them to fit exactly. As a result the rearmost ones on my model are about 5mm further back than scale. I don't feel this is noticeable. 

0C1BD6B2-BA17-416C-B457-0946A3910E7D.jpeg

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Wahka,

 

The black rings are suppose to go on the tip of each mast. I am quite envious of your build work, I feel like mine comes out in a mess.

 

I'm going to start the bumpers today. If I can get permission to mess up the kitchen from my other half, I think I may dub her the Rear Admiral, who is some times a pain in the ..... 

 

I have been working on some the small parts, dead eyes for the shrouds, and the columns for the chain plate, etc. - I'm not that happy with the way the chain plate turned out, I have a pair pliers with round tips and I used those to make them, but I feel that the loops are too large. Also, I ran out the 1 mm brass rod. I have requested some more from Occre, as well as some other missing parts (I am short 2 of the large anchors, the kit came with the 4 cross pieces but only 2 large and 2 small anchors. It won't be much of problem with the build since the second pair of large anchors and the 2 small anchors only tie on to the sides of the ship at the end of the build.

 

You think the instructions from Occre are bad you should see the one I have for the San Francisco from the now defunct Artesania Latina. Of course they are 20 years old and there was no internet back then, my kit has a copy right date of 1994 on it.

 

I don't believe you are going to build 2 ships at one time, I feel that I have enough on my plate with one, in fact I am not working on any other projects for the time being. I also build plastic models, cars, planes, tanks and scifi. I was going to start a Hamomag 251 from Tamiya but decided against it.

 

 

Edited by Paul O
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Tnx for info. I allready made the top rings on mast from wood, looks nicer also :D.

 

Regarding chainplates-i tried Occre solution and cane out as a mess. I ordered different oves from Model Dockyard, should receive them soon. Plan is to have oucome on chainplates same as Keith S has.

 

When will you open your blog?

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On 5/3/2020 at 2:44 AM, NovaStorm said:

Your off to a great start. Those port openings did they come like that, they look laser burned on the corners.

Everything in this kit is basicly lasercut so yes is the answer.

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I am thinking about starting a blog on my build, but I seem to have a issue when I try to upload pictures from my cell or digital camera. The laptop starts doing weird things and won't recognize the storage on either device, the only way I have been able to get them from my phone is to e-mail them to my self. But, that won't work for the camera.

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Wahka,

 

I was looking at the selection of books you have bought and I see a couple that I have as well. I was looking through the container the San Francisco kit is in and found the I had the Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini to, I don't remember buying it but I must have when I was working on the San Francisco 20 years ago. I was looking through it an saw some good information on chainplates and how they should be installed, He indicates that chainplate should follow the same angle as the shroud line. So I think we should try running a shroud line from the top of the mast, past each dead eye to get the correct angle for the chainplate.

 

This is for some one who is just starting a kit, i had made a copy of the 1:1 deck  plan and cut that out and I have been using it as a template for things on the deck, like the port holes, much simpler than measuring.

 

One of my favorite tools is a lighted 4" magnifying glass that is on a stand. It really helps when you are working with small parts/

 

Paul Oakley

Spring, TX

 

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I posted this on the other blog. Thought I would add it here.

WOW!!

 

Looks great.

 

I've been making some progress on my Terror and doing some reading.

 

I've uncovered an issue with the shroud lines. The way Occre show to install them is totally incorrect. They show the shrouds being run through the gap between the lower masts and the upper masts, then evening them up on both sides of the ship. From what I've seen on line and in Mastini,s book, the shrouds should go around the mast and down the same side. They are then seized at the mast. You work with them in pairs on each side, one pair on the port side and one pair on the starboard side. You need to look at the Masting and Rigging section of the book (Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini).

 

I got the bumpers bent last night and installed the water channels on the deck, I'll start installing the bumpers today.

I've been dry fitting the keel and the bowsprit to the hull. I taped the first section and the curved section to help position the bowsprit and the keel. That looks like I will be able to fit them together just fine, but - I also showed that I have a noticeable gap between the hull and the curved keel. I've decided to fill the back side of the curve with left over strips of Sapelli from the second planking layer, then shape it to fit. I took a picture of it now I have to figure out how to get the picture from my cell phone to mt laptop, my phone has updated since the last time I did that and of course how you do that has changed. It is bad when the device is smarter than the user and I'm a 30+ IT professional.

 

I'm going to have to stop now, The Blue Angels are doing a Fly Over here in Houston at 12:30 today.

 

Here is the picture of the gap

20200506_104335.jpg

 

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  • 5 months later...
On 3/28/2020 at 4:45 PM, Wahka_est said:

One more question-how to get that hariness away from ropes?


Wahka_est, I looked to see if someone had answered this question, and I saw nothing, so here is my two cents. I use white/clear bees wax to coat the string/rope. I pull the string through the end of a block or wedge of wax 2-3 times before I use the rope for rigging. The wax does two things for me, hide the “hair” on the thread which is what you are looking for and also allows the thread to slightly “stick” to its self which helps when rigging, but for me it helps hold the knot when finished. I still secure the knots with a small drop of CA glue or watered down white glue, but I kind of wait until I have a section finished and secure all the knots at once. I know this info won’t help much on your HMS Terror, but could on future ships.

 

BTW, your Terror is looking great!

 

Daniel

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  • The title was changed to HMS TERROR by Wahka_est - OcCre - 1:75 - first wooden ship build

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