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HMS Cruiser by Wahka_est - Caldercraft - 1:64


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Cannon are getting there so i couldnt resist and put those on a deck. Truly amazing feeling to see big leap forward.

Im having little trouble with iron band as they are so small but i need to bend them.

Also kit dosent have 1,5mm breech rope that i need so guess have to order some...

 

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Hi,

 

1.5mm seems huge to me, have you worked that out from a good source? I used 0.75mm, I would only go as high as 1mm. If unsure i tend to go smaller rather than larger as larger, in my opinion, tends to look clumsy.

 

However, it will be worth getting a stock of 1mm and 1.5mm as I used these sizes for the standing rigging. 2mm and 2.5mm is also worth having mainly for anchor ropes. The Amati is what I have. I used the natural and dyed black.

 

I have answered on my log. Sorry for delay, only just got back from holiday and had to look at model to confirm what I used.

 

 

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, Thunder said:

Hi,

 

1.5mm seems huge to me, have you worked that out from a good source? I used 0.75mm, I would only go as high as 1mm. If unsure i tend to go smaller rather than larger as larger, in my opinion, tends to look clumsy.

 

However, it will be worth getting a stock of 1mm and 1.5mm as I used these sizes for the standing rigging. 2mm and 2.5mm is also worth having mainly for anchor ropes. The Amati is what I have. I used the natural and dyed black.

 

I have answered on my log. Sorry for delay, only just got back from holiday and had to look at model to confirm what I used.

 

 

I saw topic here where i found this chart. It should be 4 inches and thats about 1,5mm in 1:64 scale if i understand correctly.

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Hi,

 

Yes very useful chart, even my books on arming and fitting do not give this detail. Works out at 1.59mm.

 

I have just put some 1.5mm on one of my cannon and compared with photo of victory I posted and think you may be right. You will have to step up the eyebolt sizes as well in order to rig.

 

At first I thought the chart might be giving circumference instead of diameter but this brings it out at 0.5mm which seems too small.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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Hi,

 

Had a look in Brian Lavery's 'The Arming and Fitting of English ships of war 1600-1815. He does not include a lot of text other than that below:

 

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Does not state for our period with 6 pounders for the breechings but does state circumference. If we say 5.5" circumference that gives 0.7mm for our scale.

 

I have added the text for the tackles but this gives more confusion as it seems he has worked on sizes in Diameters for these. This does not make sense as it makes the tackles 0.79mm which is bigger than his breech rope. I would think he meant circumference for this which gives 0.25mm and blocks of 2.5mm.

 

Unfortunately it is often the case that the more you research the more confused you get. I have an extensive library but often find these great authors contradictory or, in most cases, do not have the information you need. Perhaps they could not find it either.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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All iron bands installed but need paint. First started with CA but it got messy so turned to one Gorilla one i had and predrilled holes and filled them with glue - much better outcome.

Extra ring for breech rope i got from hobby jelwery store. its 4mm but made is smaller. Also needs paint.

 

Picture here is first i did to see how it will look. To be honest im happy. Now i get a rush to improve it even more but is it worth it this time - dont know. Maybe add pin to the wooden block below cannon? And like always with my stuff it needs some paint repairs.

 

Last pictures are how i bended the iron bands as they were so small and i couldnt do it any other way....final tough was given with pliers.

1) put them on masking tape so they stick in place

2) Folded it together and put 2mm drill bit between

3) Put them between vice and tight together.

4) final touch was and with 2 pliers, drill bit still between

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Looking very good, very professional. Cant wait to see one rigged.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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Dry fit with breech line. Length is 3x cannon as i remembered it from somewhere.  Rope is about 1mm and found it from my real first kit from 10y ago. Seems to fit nicely.


Small problem also as i dont have small double blocks. Luckily outhaul tackle can be placed after as its with hooks. Probably have to order those.

Lesson learned-when ordering stuff then look more forward and do your research so you order only once.

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Looking very good! One potential thought is that you could split the strands of the breeching line with a needle and slide it over the back to give it a false splice (I saw the style on several logs and adopted it for my current build).

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The best way to judge the length of the breech rope is the practical. I.e. they wouldn't want it that long that the gun could recoil down the grating.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Havent updated for a month but work hasnt been stopped.

 

Still working on cannons. Yesterday received last blocks for tackle. Did first line and i love the added detail. Just winder how to get rope  “more loose” so it would look more natural. Also i will probably tie it up - transport state.

 

Also deadeyes almost done. Last fixing when ropes are attached to get right line. This was sort of an headache as i cant close the “chainplates”. Also tried soldering deadeye iron bands-sry but cant do it so used epoxy to close it.

About closing cahinplates-read that others also left it open as it near impossible to do it. Im trying to find 1mm brass tube (yeah good luck with that) so i could so call overlap it.

 

Other  than that im close to glue the mast and start rigging and doing yards. Some are ready for blocks, some not.

 

I feel that im really close to ending this chapter of the build and getting to next one (masts and rigging).

I fear rigging the most as drawing are Sometimes hard to under stand. Thunder definitely helps with his build but he researches his rigging so im hard spot little bit.

Probably some part of rigging will be unlogical and total ship also when finished but still-first one hopefully done soon :)

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Finally got cannons to gunports. Glued and breech lines attached. So proud of myself :D .

 

Also deadeyes and chainplates done. One stip wood came loose so have to fix that. Other than that Last fixing during the rigging.

 

Now starts hard work to check that all deck pieces, eyelets etc are placed so i didn't miss something-impossible to add something later.

Tackle lines for cannons require some hard work to be done but im sure i can add those partially during rigging as they are with hooks.

 

Stumbled across problem- if i put on masts then i dont have any place to store the ship so that cat dosent reach it.....talk about a problem :D

 

Other than that mast should raise soon ;)

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Masts are in place. Didn’t glue them as they fit quite tight and thought maybe there is a reason in future to remove those then its easier.

 

before that i went trough once again all rigging drawings tonsee if ik miasing something-found few blocks and predrilled holes for eyelets. Will add those little later together with blocks.

 

Started with shrouds and then ship really started to become alive. Also put 2 deadeyes to test how it goes-real time consuming. But henerally good for first try i would say.

 

QUESTION: how stiff should the shrouds be? Like quitar string and just a slight tension?

 

Admirals orders were to clean up shipyard - did that also. Looks much more nicer now :D 

 

Any feedback appriciated about shrouds etc.

 

 

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Those look fine. 

 

I would have left the lanyards long/un-cut for now until after you install the stays in case you need to balance tension. 

 

Just make sure when you put the stays on you don't slacken the shrouds. 

Joe Volz

 

 

Current build:

Model Shipways "Benjamin W. Latham"

 

 

Completed  builds on MSW:

Caldercraft HMS "Cruizer   Caldercraft HMBV "Granado"   Model Shipways "Prince De Neufchatel"

 

 

 

 

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Nice update, some nice rigging you have going on there.  I would definitely echo Joe's good advice, especially with the variable quality of kit supplied rope you are using.  In my experience, the kit supplied rope can continue to stretch after it is placed in constant tension.  As I'm finishing up rigging Snake, I've been taking the approach of installing the various rigging elements and leaving them under small amount of tension for at least a day or two before finally securing.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Its been tough with shrouds and deadeyes. Half of the i had to redo. Cant get them to align perfectly.

Heres the progress so far. 
I hope after 1-2 days i can see if they will stay as i put them and i can seize the ropes.

 

For next update they should be done ;) 

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It is very hard to get them level and you have looked to do extremely well. Are you using a jig? Just a simple piece of spare 2mm ply with four pins for the upper holes of the lower dead eye and two lower holes of the upper deadeye. You then get the distance and tension when doing the shroud rather than when rigging between the deadeyes.

 

Still not easy so, looking at yours, if not using the jig, perhaps you don't need it.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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Tnx for kind words. 
I used only 15mm brass wire and only inserted that 1 hole of the dead eye. Guess i did quite well.

Also looked at real Victory photos and they arent 100% at same line so small offset is fine.

 

One mistake i did, seizing of shroud should be done with black thead. Will correct that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

One side lower ratlines done. Off to other side. Amazing how after 100+ knots you get hang of it :D .
 

At some point i also have to finish my last bits and pieces-last cannon, rudder rigging to wheel etc....for some reason i have postponed it. Probably the reason might be as im too impatient to see my ship partially rigged :) 

 

Admiral also asked when it will be ready, said February maybe and reaction was ohhh so soon...

 

Question-easiest way to clean off all the dust besides brush-compressed air meant for keyboards?

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Ratlines are looking good! 

 

The best way I've found for removing dust is using a dry paint brush and blowing the loose debris away. If you have some tough spots you can use a damp brush. It does the job and you can even do it after rigging if the brush is long enough.

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16 hours ago, clearway said:

nice work, my shoulders and neck end up aching these days when doing the ratlines!!

 

Keith

Tnx. I also see that i need table with adjustable height in order to do it more comfortable.

Also noticed little flaw. Spacing between ratlines on other side of ship is little different - one side has 12 ratlines and other 14 on same distance....not sure if i should redoing. To be honest noone notices but I KNOW and it creeps inside :)

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