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Egilman

East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale; AMT; by Egilman

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there was an incident {now quite a while ago}..........there is a bridge down near the cape {Massachusetts} that is very narrow.  from what I understand,  if a rig was to go over it,  there was hardly any room for passing cars.  well.........he hugged the side a wee bit too close!  the side of that trailer was never the same.....hauled by a dedicated driver and not a Wally driver.  

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1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

nice look'in fridge! :) 

Thanks, but a potential problem might make it all for naught, I forgot to check the decals. I have the SATB decal set for the truck and trailer from Modeltruckin' (moebius trailer version) I can't use the mural cause it is low grade and besides it is hopelessly out of scale, but the rest of the decals are perfect. I scaled the reefer to the images from the movie and what I could find of the real thing to get the proportions right... but before I can paint it I should have checked the decals to see if they fit. Now I may have to alter the decals to fit cause the reefer is correctly proportioned which is probably the way I'll go. (matching the movie rig comes first) But, I got in so all fired a hurry to get it made that I forgot a basic step....

 

Slippin' in my old age...

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2 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

there was an incident {now quite a while ago}..........there is a bridge down near the cape {Massachusetts} that is very narrow.  from what I understand,  if a rig was to go over it,  there was hardly any room for passing cars.  well.........he hugged the side a wee bit too close!  the side of that trailer was never the same.....hauled by a dedicated driver and not a Wally driver.  

Yeah, I wonder what gets in their heads at times. We have a bridge here in Tacoma over the Puyallup river and the lead in to the UP rail yard about a half mile long multi-span truss girder type, all along it you can see where the riveted girders are bent and deformed from where the trucks have repeatedly hit it... Happens all the time around here especially around the Port of Tacoma. Never hit a bridge in my short career of driving (three years) but then again I always checked the rig's height with a telltale and parked my butt right behind another rig, if he made it, I would.... (I didn't get paid enough to take such risks especially going somewhere I was unfamiliar with)

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That was a guy hauling construction machinery on a flatbed. Thing is they still don't know what happened. Yes he struck the bridge knocking out a small crossmember in the last bay of the truss. He actually cleared 85% of the bridge including the approaches into and out of.... He exited the bridge and continued on his way not realizing what had happened. Several cars that were following also crossed the bridge before it collapsed... Then all of a sudden it let go.....

 

Based upon the measured height of the load he should have cleared by 6" but they do not know if that particular piece had been damaged earlier and was hanging lower than the others...

Also, he has already passed under at least six overpasses and two other similar bridges on his trip from where he loaded up.....

 

They still do not understand what caused him to strike that one piece after clearing all the other cross members..... There was nothing in the roadway to cause the trailer to jump.

One of the strangest things the engineers had ever seen with no explanation... The bridge was scheduled to be replaced anyway but they figured that it would last a few more years.....

 

So yeah it is not all driver stupidity....

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Primered parts.....

 

The reefer unit came out nice, all that is left is detailing and painting....

DCP_2385.JPG.adaebf226c5c982c962f409f1b39f739.JPG

The side panels I"m not so sure about....

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The gap shows, but then again, this is why we use Tamiya ultra fine primer. To show the defects. You can clearly see some gaps....

 

Horizontal joints......

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It measures out at 1/64th to 1/32nd inch. Not very much, but enough for microsol to pull the decal into it.

 

Vertical joints...

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Measures less than a 64th but it's there.....

 

So the issue is, I need a way to fill those gaps without effecting the surface detail. As you can see the detail is fine and very close to where the fill needs to be applied. This rules out most hardening putty's that need to be sanded. I was thinking about a self leveling filling primer. (if there is such a thing) Or, in the alternative, successive coats of future, which dries very thin and build up the joints over the gaps... It will need a coat of Tamiya fine white primer & Future before the decal gets applied. I don't think gap filling CA is the answer, a little too much or an unsteady hand and you have to sand....

 

Any suggestions? Maybe someone has dealt with this before.... Thank you in advance, any ideas welcome

 

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Just now, Egilman said:

So the issue is, I need a way to fill those gaps without effecting the surface detail. As you can see the detail is fine and very close to where the fill needs to be applied. This rules out most hardening putty's that need to be sanded. I was thinking about a self leveling filling primer. (if there is such a thing) Or, in the alternative, successive coats of future, which dries very thin and build up the joints over the gaps... It will need a coat of Tamiya fine white primer & Future before the decal gets applied. I don't think gap filling CA is the answer, a little too much or an unsteady hand and you have to sand....

 

Any suggestions? Maybe someone has dealt with this before.... Thank you in advance, any ideas welcome

 

heat-stretch some sprue, then use that to fill the gap. Use Tamiya extra thin liquid cement to bond the stretched sprue in the gap. This will not impact the surrounding detail and if you're careful to stretch the sprue to the correct diameter to fit the gap, you will not need to sand it, either.

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I've seen a product called Mr Surfacer. Comes in 3 thicknesses for various situations, 500 (thickest), 1000 and I think 1500 (thinnest). I have never used it personally, but you may want to check some of the aircraft and armor websites for their use. I'd be worried about removing too much detail around those seams with the stretched sprues, if you need to sand them down.

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This is probably the dumb question of the week.... Could it be filled from the backside and use something to smooth it out from the front?   I'm really not a plastic builder though I did one recently so I'm curious.

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33 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

This is probably the dumb question of the week.... Could it be filled from the backside and use something to smooth it out from the front?   I'm really not a plastic builder though I did one recently so I'm curious.

The back side has a strip of .020 backing the joint for reinforcement and leveling the joint so there is no access to the back side..... But thank you it was a thought...

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4 hours ago, CDW said:

Here are some photos of one of my models where stretch sprue was used to fill a gap. There was detail on either side that I didn't want to destroy.

 

WOW! that is an idea I never thought of it would work wonders in many applications. I'm going to throw together some scrap and test it out.... Thank you, I can think of several situations where this will come in handy....

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Just now, Egilman said:

WOW! that is an idea I never thought of it would work wonders in many applications. I'm going to throw together some scrap and test it out.... Thank you, I can think of several situations where this will come in handy....

Many times (most times), the problem with fillers are two-fold; they shrink/crack over time, and they are difficult to level without destroying or covering up surrounding detail. With the stretched sprue method, you will eliminate the shrinking/cracking problem and what little filler you may need on top of the stretched sprue can be applied so lightly, it will not harm surrounding detail. That Vallejo filler seen in Lou's video can be smoothed out with a damp paint brush or q-tip, leaving little to no excess that needs sanding. Same is true with the Mr. Surfacer, but smooth it down with a paint brush or q-tip dampened with a solvent based thinner to remove excess.

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4 hours ago, Canute said:

I've seen a product called Mr Surfacer. Comes in 3 thicknesses for various situations, 500 (thickest), 1000 and I think 1500 (thinnest). I have never used it personally, but you may want to check some of the aircraft and armor websites for their use. I'd be worried about removing too much detail around those seams with the stretched sprues, if you need to sand them down.

 

4 hours ago, lmagna said:

 

Also I have had excellent luck using Vallejo putty in much the same way:

 

Another Wow!!! Mr Surfacer looks to be the ticket in this specific application no sanding needed at all. The vallejo plastic putty could also work and would be fairly easy to remove if it goes wrong.....

 

Thank you for the suggestion ken  and thank you Lou for the videos, I went ahead and found a few more video/demonstrations of both Mr Surfacer and plastic putty....  I can see uses for the plastic putty, but to be honest what Mr surfacer is showing is exactly the ticket. all the rest eventually drag out the sanding sticks which I have to avoid here, I do have needle sanders for getting in those real real tight places, but I don't even want to go to those with this...

 

Going to give Mr Surfacer a try and see what I can do with it....

 

Now to order it and wait for it to get here...

 

The real issue here is the huge decal that has to go over it. If the surface has issues larger than the beading detail it will show up like a waving flag. no amount of clear flat will hide it........

 

Thank you Ken.....

Thank you Lou....

 

I"m going to test all of them and see what I can do with them....

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39 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Why dont you put a thing strip of something along the whole length both side to cover it?  it could represent a  re enforcing point.

 

OC.

Already got one on the back side OC, too much detail on the front side that has to show on the finished model is the issue here....

 

Thank you for the suggestion...

 

EG

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Just ordered up some Mr Surfacer 500 & 1000 and the matching thinner from Sprue Bro's. Should be here in the next couple of days. Meanwhile I will start setting up the tandem unit. (the wheels and tires should arrive in the next couple of weeks) But I also received my replacement wheels and tires for the tractor and the suspension parts I've been told are on the way.... so If I run out of things to do with the trailer, I'll switch back to the Tractor....

 

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Solid resin and solid rubber tires, with the correct tread pattern as well! They actually look the part and will not disintegrate, split apart or go flat....

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Figured while I'm on a bit of a short hiatus on this I would clean up my artwork and get it scaled correctly and submit for a printing quote.....

 

Smokey & the Bandit Mural  Hi Res

Scale for 1/25th measures 116mm high and 573mm long.... The quote back was for $98.00 to print two of them, of course they will be two piece overlapping decals.....

 

The image is hi-res in case anyone wants to save it. (or it was when I uploaded it, you can access it by clicking on it and expanding it then copying it into your favorite software or to your HD. It measures 2048x415 pixels)

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hope you can get the job done.   something to try and make would be a brass 'comb'  it doesn't need to be very wide,  but the teeth will need to match the ribbing on the panel side.  that way after the putty is applied,  you can scrape off the excess without ruining the detail. 

 

a second thought I have is using a thread pitch gauge...you can find them anywhere tools are sold..........already made with very little work

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1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

a second thought I have is using a thread pitch gauge...you can find them anywhere tools are sold..........already made with very little work

I already have one, several really, but I didn't think of that! Anyways, I"ve done my testing and application to the side panels..... 

Two coats of Mr Surfacer 500 on the joints.... It filled the grooves quite well....

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My only problem with it was I didn't apply it directly to the plastic, I applied it over the Tamiya primer, so when I went to use the thinner to smooth it off, it also moved the primer..... UGH! so now I had to decide to either do it all over after removing the primer or test shoot it with the final white primer and see how it lays in the grooves....

 

Test shot with white....

Wet...

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Dry...

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That actually didn't come out too bad, it's not completely smooth, but it doesn't really stand out either and it's not hiding the rivet details either....

A couple more shots....

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The vertical join....

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The horizontal join..... Not perfect, but a lot better than it was. I'm going to go with it, the decal will ride over the joints without sinking now and once installed and flat finished I don't think it will be that noticeable, and besides the coat of future going on it for decal adhesion will do some smoothing out itself also....

 

I'm happy with it...... Next time I know to use the Mr Surfacer before any paint.... also use this in a WELL ventilated area it's Acetone based and the fumes will not overpower you, but the aroma will linger in the room for quite a few hours.... (my experience in my 500+ sq ft workshop) 

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Next step, getting difficult to continue, still waiting on parts, running out of subassemblies. I usually prefer to collect everything I need and run a build right through to the end one continuous stream... but having issues with shipping delays in the middle of a build is no fun at all....

 

Trailer colors.... we know the bullnose and doors are black, and the sides have their murals.... what about the rest of the trailer......

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Movie capture, looks grey....

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Yep, light grey... the real thing.....

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Now that looks like a light ghost grey. (but look at that light level also, it's so bright that the light is reflecting off the tread of the tires!)

Let's try another pic without the intense light....

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Now that's more like it, sunny day in the shade, medium light grey seems to be a good choice, and look at the upper right corner, under intense flash, it shows a blue cast....

Testors Aircraft Grey is what I'm going to use.... I think it fits the bill perfectly.....

 

Trailer parts, minus the box....

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Painted Aircraft Grey....

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We start with the sliding tandem unit frame.... 7 parts... (and notice that under the bright flash, it has a blue cast to the aircraft grey, color is spot on)

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So the first step is to mount the spring/flange parts to the outer side frame rails...... This is where the first problem reveals itself....

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Sorry for the blurry pic, but it is still clear enough to see that the flanges on the spring parts sits proud of the frame rail. It is supposed to sit flush with the frame rail top flange...... So I have to relieve the spacing on the inside of the part.

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Unaltered part at the top, relieved part at the bottom, done by using a flat file to shave the part down between the flanges without damaging or breaking off the springs....

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Again sorry for the blurry pics, corrected part at the bottom, untouched parts at the top. Relieving is necessary because the crossmembers need to fit between the side rail flanges while meeting the spring flanges flush. Without shaving the cross members do not fit tight to the side rails which is needed for strength....

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Gluing the springs to the side rails....

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Crossmembers installed and squared, the forward end is too the left....

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Axles, radius rods, brake levers and air pots installed......

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Auxiliary air tank and regulator installed along with the air hose support.....

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Stock wheels and tires assembled and installed temporarily to get the delicate detail parts off the table where they will get broke.... 

 

The sliding tandem unit is now complete, I have resin wheels and true rubber tires on order if they ever get here, they are much more accurately detailed and the new tires have the correct tread pattern as seen in the movie.... And, except for the landing gear, I have no other sub-assemblies I can build without more parts arriving.

 

At this point I think I'm going to put this on hold until the parts arrive, I have tractor hubs, trailer wheels and tires, mural decals, and other assorted needed details arriving sometime in the future from all over the country and world in fact... until they get here there isn't much I can do, and I usually like having all materials and supplies on hand when I start a build.... This is why this is advancing agonizingly slow, (agonizingly slow for me) So I'm going to put this on hold until all the parts arrive and I can proceed like I enjoy doing.... smoothly and without interruptions beyond my control....

 

In the meantime to occupy myself and bore you to tears, I'll be starting another build log shortly on a simpler subject that should be easier without the delays... haven't decided what yet, I need to look thru my stash and see what I've got that isn't going to require any aftermarket or just minimal scratchbuilding, that rules out ships, most armor and most aircraft.  Maybe this will work....

 

An OOB blast from the past would be perfect.....

 

Rest assured, you will NOT go away without seeing the end of this build, until I have glued the last part and posted pics of it for you!

 

Thank you for looking in and commenting....

 

EG

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