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fnick

Revell Tie fighter - 1:110 by Fnick (Finished)

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Hi all

 

Shipyard is in the garage and it being a bit too cold to go in there during the winter I thought I'd do something a bit different:81Uw3DxVWDL._SL1500_.thumb.jpg.a71917b843e1054a96a32b8e6bbeae71.jpg

Also had a case of builders block with Le Mirage... And also really wanted to finish a kit in less than 20 years! I've been watching a few (lots!😄) Of plasmo's videos to get some tips. I've not got too many progress pics but here there are 

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As you can see I've gone for a greyer colour than the box art which just looks too much like blue to me.

Question for the more experienced plastic modellers out there: what kind of spray varnish (out of rattle can or with brush) is the best? I've tried humbrol acrylic varnish out of spray can but it comes out far too quickly and also appears to make the paint crack...

 

Thanks for looking in

 

Nick

 

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 I should add it's not finished yet. C

A few patches to tidy up and I also need to try and accentuate the panel lines on the main body. I do have a dark grey wash but it doesn't appear to flow in the lines easily. Might be worth getting Tamiya panel Line.

 

Nick

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Thanks Edward! As tempting as that is😄 I've got an airfix starter kit of an Aston Martin DB5 that my best man gave me on my 40th which was nearly 3 years ago... Probably should start that first! Kit isn't brilliant but it will be a good way to get back into doing car kits.

 

Nick

 

Ps: can't get too hooked on plastic kits Le Mirage will end up being exactly that!

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6 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Are you a clairvoyant  Denis?

 

OC.

Nope, he thinks everybody is like him ;)

 

Fnick, I used Vallejo rattlecan lacquers for the destroyers I have built, and for a BF 109G I used AK from a bottle, because I didn't have any satin left in a can. In the end it all boils down to preference.

 

P.s. I didn't like Valleyo bottled lacquers for use in an airbrush, with a conventional brush it worked as expected

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As long as the boxes do not hit the table, there isn't anything to build :P

 

Nick, don't mention it. Currently testing Mr Paint both enamels and acrylics. I really like the enamels for airbrushing.

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Hi all

The tie fighter is finally finished. I opted to use humbrol Matt varnish as I did another test and it worked fine. Unfortunately grrrh the windows have completely misted up...😠

Anything I can do? Clean it carefully with white spirit maybe? I'll let the photos do the talking. The colours are a lot lighter than in real life. I had to use the flash just to see the details. I'll try again tomorrow in the middle of the day

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Thanks for looking in.

Nick

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3 hours ago, fnick said:

grrrh the windows have completely misted up

Gloss varnish might help. I wouldn't go for the white spirit. I found MR Paint (NOT Mr Color!) Cleaner to be a very effective paint remover, both enamel as acrylics. Watch out you do not touch other areas than the ones you want to "strip"

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Nope never sanded varnish was going to try and use a cotton bud to remove it. I used Matt varnish.didnt know about the putting on another layer trick. Thanks!

 

Don't think I have other varnishes. Mind you Ill need to order some satin or gloss varnish for the db5.

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Odd for even matt should still be opaque. It may be that the clear plastic turned murky, which you cannot alter, but for changing it. In tis particular case I would try the MR Paint Cleaner with a cotton swab.

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fighter looks awesome Nick........tough call on the glass.  never had any real luck in recovering it....never used a varnish either.   turning white is usually a humidity thing.......I get that a lot with lacquer.  if you do try to strip it off and it looks promising,  perhaps some clear nail polish will bring back the luster

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On 4/10/2020 at 11:43 PM, fnick said:

I'm a bit confused cog... Clean off Matt varnish with gloss varnish?

No he referring to the surface the two different lacquers put on a finish, Matt Lacquer is designed to break up a smooth surface so it doesn't reflect light, where gloss lacquer is designed to smooth a surface so it reflects as much light as possible....  What he's contemplating is spraying the dry matt lacquer with high gloss lacquer nd see if correcting the finish will allow light to pass... I've heard of this before but I think it depends on which lacquer formulations were used... Lacquer from 30 years ago (true lacquer) crazes clear surfaces, that is unrecoverable. The current crop of Lacquers are not chemically true lacquers, but they act like them.... you might be able to restore it by recovering with the correct lacquer, or even stripping and removal of the lacquer......

 

At this point being covered with matt, it doesn't look right and never will... another option is if the kit is a round two model, and is in current production, you can get the replacement part fairly easily......

 

I hope this explanation helps you come to a resolution....

 

Other than your question on the finished windows, Beautiful model... nice work...

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Thanks for the comments gents!🙂 appreciate them especially since it's been a while since I did a plastic model.

 

Yes my plan is to use some gloss varnish (hopefully arriving end of next week) on the windows as I have also heard it can clear them up to some extent. If it doesn't work then I'll add that to the experience pile!

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