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If you are trying to create the look of varnished wood or bright work, what gives the best scale appearance if the wood used is cherry? Regular cherry stain on cherry wood doesn’t have much of an effect. It doesn’t have the richness needed and looks washed out. Mahogany stain doesn’t work well either. Neither does Mahogany for the actual wood. Any ideas?

 

Kurt

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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If it's cherry, why not just varnish it?  Cherry does darken with age.  I've done that on two models and looks great to my eye.  But then, I might be prejudiced.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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A stain product is actually a semi transparent paint.  Cherry stain would be used on something like Yellow Poplar,  Using a dye on Cherry is gilding a Lilly.  Using a stain is turning a star into something mundane.

If you want a finish with a reverse gear, consider shellac.  Orange shellac will darken it now without obscuring it.  But, as Marks writes, Black Cherry darkens over time and in few years may be darker than you intended.  Super blonde will not darken it much.  There is a clearer version that is about twice as expensive.  The more layers, the more depth.  If it is too shiny a light buffing with very very fine steel wool with make it satin.   Just do not get it wet.  I am of a mind to use a final layer of Renaissance Wax Polish- but that is just a theory now.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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What Jaager said. Shellac works fine. You can add coats to develop the level of gloss required and if the gloss is too great, it can be toned down using a Scotch-brite pad or steel wool, or simply wiping with a fine cloth dampened with alcohol. Remember that gloss must be toned down on a model to properly depict brightwork to scale.

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Kurt,

For the next time, Swiss/steamed pear is fantastic to work with, has a beautiful reddish color, is very close grained, carves beautifully,  and takes all types of finish coatings well.  No stain needed!!!  

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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