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US Brig Syren by abelson - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 3/16"


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This being April Fool's Day, it's no joke that I made progress on the the ship. But, as a matter of note, one thing that I’ve learned in model ship building is that Murphy’s Law - "Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong" - is ever present. With that aside, I’m continuing with Chapter 16. I glued the bowsprit in-place and allowed it to dry sufficiently before gammoning. I set up the gammoning with .021 black line, made the eye, thread the loose end through the eye and then rove it through the gammon hole. I found this to be somewhat difficult, mostly because the head rails block your view. I was able to make the 9 turns and 9 half-hitches as per the illustrations in the instructions. I used CA to secure the line while I was wrapping it.

 

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I lashed the bobstays and the bowsprit shrouds to their corresponding hearts with .008 tan line. The space between hearts (1/4”) is consistent with the scale of Sheet 5, however, I had to re-do one bowsprit shroud because the spacing between hearts was too close. I used CA to secure the lashing.

 

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I assembled the jibboom and the flying jibboom and lashed the jibboom to the bowsprit with three (3) turns of .028 black line. In the process of assembling the flying jibboom, I didn’t realize that the traveler ring slipped off until the flying jibboom was glued in place. Fortunately, I used white glue, so I was able to disassemble the flying jibboom, replace the traveler ring, and reassemble the jibboom. Just a word of caution: Make sure the bend at the top of the ring can pass the line size before permanently assembling the bow sprit. With that done, I moved on to the stays. I decided to set up the outer martingale back ropes (.012 black) first. I made a "bullseye" in one end and then measured the length of the stay from Sheet 5. I seized each stay to the bottom of the dolphin striker with the striker off the bowsprit. After permanently attaching the striker, I temporarily set up each stay with a lanyard (.008 tan) attached to the upper headrail eye. So far so good.

 

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Next, the inner martingale stays (.018 black). I set up the lanyards temporarily, lashing them to the eye bolt closet to the bowsprit. This is the reverse order of what’s described in the instructions. I made only two passes – that’s all that can fit through the 1/32” eyebolts. Setting up the lanyards was easier than I expected. The key is to have a stiffened loose end to feed through eye bolt. I seized each stay to the tip of the jibboom. Then, I tightened each lanyard and secured it with CA glue. The outer martingale stays (.012 black) were next. I set them up a la the inner martingale stays. They were fairly easy because they pass through 3/32” blocks on the end of the flying jibboom and are seized to the bottom of the dolphin striker. Lastly, I tightened the lanyard and secured it with CA glue.

 

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I temporarily set up the lanyards for the fore royal stay (.012 black) and the fore top gallant stay (.018 black). While setting up the fore royal stay, the eye bolt came out from the bow - UGH!. It was nearly impossible to get the eyebolt back in, but I persevered - These will be permanently set up in Chapter 18. Lesson learned: Make sure the eye bolts are secure before setting up the stays.

 

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To complete Chapter 16, I made the foot ropes – they are definitely troublesome. I soaked a length of .012 black line in water, applied a clip to each end and hung it to dry. I didn’t find much discussion in other build logs on making the footropes, but this is the method I used:

(1) loop the line over the end of the jibboom,

(2) tie the two loose ends with an overhand knot,

(3) slip the knot up to the jibboom,

(4) apply CA glue to secure the knot and trim the loose ends,

(5) cut each footrope loose end long enough to provide the desired drape and to seize it to the eyebolt on the bowsprit cap,

(6), make nine knots (.008 black) on each footrope, spaced at approximately 3/8”,

(7) apply CA to each knot and trim the ends – do this one footrope at a time so you can align the knots on each rope,

(8) pass the loose end of each rope through the bowsprit eye bolt,

(9) adjust the rope to the desired drape and then apply a little CA to the eye bolt to secure the line, and (10) seize the line with black thread.

 

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For the footropes between the end of the jibboom and the end of the flying jibboom the process is basically the same except for seizing the end of the ropes at the end of flying jibboom and making six (6) knots in each rope. I applied one coat of 50/50 mixture of white glue and water to the footropes. Murphy’s Law notwithstanding, I’m happy with the results of Chapter 16. More photos follow. The wound up ropes in the photos are the fore royal stay and fore top gallant stay. The bumpkins are temporarily placed – I created these back in Chapter 10. I think I’ll hold off on permanently installing them until I rig the fore mast and top gallant stays. A single block needs to be seized to the end of each bumpkin for the fore course tack. It’s best to do this with the bumpkin off ship.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 2 weeks later...

On to Chapter 17. I had previously drilled the holes for and rough cut the 5/32” dowels for the fore and main masts back in Chapter 7. I had drilled the holes 1” deep. Before cutting the dowels down to size, I inserted each dowel into the predrilled hole and marked the top of the deck on each dowel. I scaled the length of the masts on Sheet 5 from the top of the deck to the top of the mast cap (Fore Mast: 8 13/16”, Main Mast: 9 9/16”). I cut the dowels longer to allow from inserting the dowel into my drill chuck for tapering the masts to about 3/16” at the top, as measured on Sheet 5. After tapering, the dowels were cut to final length.

 

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Starting with the fore mast, I filed and sanded the top of the mast to a square profile. I drew four pencil lines to demarcate the four square sides. This is very helpful when you rotate the dowel to file the next side. To keep the dowel from twisting while filing and sanding, I used a right angle picture frame jig.

 

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Once the sides were square, I made the tenon at the top of the mast and chamfered the corner edges of the squared portion of the mast. I flattened the port and starboard surfaces of the mast to receive the cheeks, and slightly flattened the front of the mast to receive the front fish. The cheeks were made from a 3/16” x 1/16” strip, glued, shaped, and the “fingernail” made as per the instructions. Next, the simulated iron bands were added using 1/16” pinstripe tape (not furnished with the kit) per the instructions, except for the bands that run under the cheeks. Rather than wrap these bands around the entire mast, I opted to cut strips to fit between the cheeks. I only used two (2) strips. I applied CA glue to the cut ends of all of the bands to preclude them from lifting up.

 

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The front fish was next. For risk of damaging the bands when sanding down the front fish, I took a page out of SalD’s log and decided to round off the front fish before gluing it to the mast. I attached the front fish to a scrap piece if ¼” dowel with double sided tape and then sanded the front fish to shape. The front fish was then aligned with the bands on the mast and the band locations were marked with a pencil on the backside of the front fish. I scribed a line on the pencil marks and on the edge of the front fish and then created a notch to fit over the bands. I added the two chocks/cleats at the top of the mast head and the two (2) below front fish. I shaped them first, glued them, and then did some final shaping with a file. Lastly, I added the laser cut bibbs, making sure that the tops of the bibbs are parallel with the water line. Note: The bibbs are fragile and can easily break along the grain.

 

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The main mast was completed in same fashion as the foremast. The boom rest was made from 1/16” basswood sheet. I used a 9/16” circle template to mark the outer radius and a 5/16” template to mark the inner radius. The boom rest was cut out with an x-acto knife. The corbels (knees) under the rest were made from 1/16” x 1/32” strip. I pre-shaped them before gluing them in-place. The tops of the corbels need to be angled to match the angle of the rest. I glued the center corbel first, the two end corbels next, and then did a final shaping on them. The other two corbels were then glued in-place and final shaped.

 

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I decided to add the saddle for the lower yard sling on top of the cap. In so doing, I left space between the saddle and the top mast for the lower lift blocks. I made the saddles from a sheet of 1/16” basswood. I used a 5/8” diameter circle template to establish the curvature of the saddle. The notch in the top of the saddle was made by running an x-acto knife across the saddle and then filing along the cut with a half-round file. The notch needs to wide enough for the .012 black sling.  I also added the eye bolt to the main mast cap for the 1/8” double block for the gaff peak halliard.

 

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The tops of the masts were painted black down to the iron band below the bibbs.  Next, the 5 mm metal lower cleats were filed and spray painted black.  I stuck the cleats to a piece of masking tape to hold them secure while spray painting them. I attached the four (4) cleats to the main mast and the six (6) cleats to the fore mast with CA glue. I then stained the masts with Minwax Golden Oak. To complete the fore mast, I rigged the 1/8 single block for the main topmast preventer stay, 5/32" single block for the main topmast stay, and the main stay collar (5mm closed heart).  As others have found, 5/32” blocks are not included in the kit. Fortunately, I had some from my Fair American build. The following is a link I used for rigging the blocks to the mast: https://youtube/WUrRb66VSSE. This is a good technique.  I used .018 black line and black thread for the whipping. With that, I’m moving on to constructing the fore and main tops. Stay tuned.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 3 weeks later...

At this point, I’m one year into the build. The results have been good. Now, on to constructing the Main and Fore Tops.  I cut out and dry fit the cross trees and trestle trees. Once I was satisfied that the cross trees and trestle trees “effectively” slide over the masts, I glued them together. I didn’t spend much time sanding the trees to remove the char because they are going to be painted black. The laser cut main and fore tops were next. I added the 1/8” x 1/32” planks as per the instructions. I sanded the edges of the top to even out the planks. I copied Walrusguy’s build and indented the edges of the plank joints so that once painted the planks are more visible. With that done, I cut out the laser cut rims, glued them to the planked tops, and sanded the outside edges of each rim flush with outside edges of the tops. The battens were next. To serve as a guide in positioning the battens, I cut out the plan view of the tops from Sheet 5 and placed it on the planked tops, marked the ends of each batten, and drew a pencil line between the tick marks. I marked the locations of the holes to be drilled for the blocks in each top and the two holes to be drilled in the fore top for the eye bolts for the lanyards for for the main top gallant stay and royal stay. [Note: The main top plan on Page 88 of the instructions shows nine (9) holes but Sheet 5 only shows eight (8). So, I’m not sure what the extra hole is for. Nonetheless, I rigged a 1/8” double block to it.] 

 

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Each batten was cut from the 1/32” x 1/32” strip. The ends for the battens were sanded to the proper angle and glued on to the top. With the battens completed on both tops, I glued the base strip for the rails. I used a 1/8”x 1/32” strip for the base strip. I held off on gluing the trees to the underside of the tops until hanging the blocks – this gave me a little more room to work on the blocks.

 

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Somewhere along the way, I used all 8 yards of .012 black line. So, I used .008 black line to hang the blocks under the tops. [Note: I thought .018 black was too thick.] The instructions say to fold the line in half to create a loop that is pushed through the hole in the top. This is easier said than done. I had to make the holes larger in order to do this. Even at that, I still had difficulty pushing the loop through the hole. I threaded the line though a needle and pushed the head of the needle through the hole, pulled one loose end through the hole, and re-inserted the loose end through the hole. Next, I inserted the pin (cut from 28 gauge wire) through the loop and pulled the two loose ends down to tighten the loop. The pin was secured to the top with CA glue. I installed all of the loops before rigging the blocks. [Note: installing all of the loops would later be problematic when installing the blocks because the loose ends of the loops where in the way. I had to tape down the loose ends. Also, I wish that I had made the loose ends longer to facilitate tying the half knots.]

 

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Next, the blocks. There are four (4) 1/8” double blocks and the four 1/8” single blocks in the main top and eight (8) 1/8” double blocks in the fore main top.  Installing the blocks was a tedious task. I tried following the instructions without success. I used a different method aided by 3/32” x 1/16” wood strip as follows: lay the wood strip across on the top (1/16” side down of course) between the loose ends, tie an overhand knot, apply a little CA glue to the knot to secure it, slide, but not remove, the wood strip to release it from the rigging line, apply a little CA to the block and place the block on the rigging line to hold it in place while you tie the block with the loose ends using an overhand knot, secure the knot with CA, snip off the excess rigging line with a nail clipper, remove the wood strip while holding the block with tweezers, seize the two rigging lines together below the block. Note: This process won’t work if the cross trees and trestle trees are glued on. It worked well for me, and it gave each block a uniform height below the top. I became more proficient at it with each successive block.  I completed the fore top blocks first, then, I glued the cross trees and trestle trees in-place. Here are some photos.

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 I completed the main top blocks in the same manner. However, I did make a mistake. The first two blocks that I installed were the aft, outboard, port and starboard blocks. I wasn’t paying attention to the plans and installed double blocks instead of single blocks. I decided to leave them as is. I painted the underside of the tops black – only one coat because the bottoms will not be seen.

 

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Added the eye bolts for the lanyards for the main top gallant stay and royal stay and the blocks for the boom topping lifts in the main top trestle trees. I made the eye bolts from 28 gauge wire - Somehow, I used all or lost some of the 320 small (1/32") brass eye bolts furnished with the kit. Next, I stropped the 1/8” double block for the throat halliard. I didn’t spend a lot of time on this – just tied a simple knot and applied CA to secure it to the trestle trees. Any more detail than that won’t be noticeable.

 

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I made the deadeye plates from 28 gauge wire. I wrapped the wire around a round nose pliers. The most difficult part is setting the 2.5 mm deadeyes so that the two holes are across the top while wrapping the wire around the deadeye. Once I had the deadeye in-place and lightly wrapped, I applied some CA to secure it. Note: I found that if you apply too much pressure the deadeye will break. I finished off the plate by snipping the wire with nail clippers and filing the ends to flatten them. The tops of the deadeyes will be obscured when the top mast shrouds are rigged.

 

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The top rails were made using 1/16” x 1/16” strips per the instructions. The stanchions were made using the same wooden decorative toothpicks that I used for the fife rail legs. I drilled .55mm holes in the end of each stanchions and glued a short length of 28 gauge wire into each hole to secure the rail stanchions to the base strip along the top. I used white glue to attach the stanchions to the rail. When the glued was sufficiently dried, I applied CA to the rail/stanchion joint to secure the stanchion. I laid the completed rail and stanchions down on the top to align the stanchion pins with the base strip and then drilled a hole in the base strip at the location of each pin. I attached the rail and stanchions to the base strip temporarily and painted them black.

 

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Next up, the (1/16” x 1/16”) bolsters and cross beams. I marked the location of the cross beams on the trestle trees. I glued the aft cross beam between the trestle trees on both the fore and main top. This helped in positioning the top on the mast assembly. Whence the top was secure with CA, I added the fore cross beam to each top. The bolsters were next. These were easy. Painted the cross beams and bolster black. Time to move on to constructing the top masts. Stay tuned for progress.

 

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Edited by abelson
Added photo

Steven E. Sylven

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  • 3 weeks later...

Completed the fore and top masts. The masts were made from 3/16” dowel and shaped to create the square and octagonal surfaces shown on the plans. Made the fids from a 1/16” x 1/16” strip and shaped them as shown on the plans. The cheeks were made from a 3/32” x 1/16” strip. Rather than file two small grooves on one side of each cheek to simulate the sheave holes, I glued the cheeks to the top mast and then drilled holes.  I added a brass pin to each mast to secure the yards.

 

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I found the cross and trestle trees to be a bit tricky to assemble. I predrilled the holes in the ends of the cross trees before removing them from the laser cut sheet.  In so doing, one of the cross trees split – good thing there is a spare. I followed the instructions in assembling and gluing the cross trees and trestle trees. Rigged the four 3/32” single blocks that hang from the top mast crosstrees and the one 1/8” single block on the fore top for the top gallant stay. The plans do not show where on the cross tress the 3/32” blocks are to be placed, only that two are located on the aft cross tree and two are located on the mid cross tree. However, the photo on Page 99, appears to show the blocks midway between the end of the cross tree and the trestle tree. So, that’s where I placed them. The bolsters were made from 1/16” x 1/16” strip as per the instruction. Painted the bottoms and tops of the top masts black and stained the rest Golden Oak. 

 

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The fore and main topgallant masts/posts were made and shaped from 1/8” dowel. I used a makeshift lathe consisting of a Dremel and a cordless drill. I cut the dowel to a reasonable length, allowing enough length for insertion into the Dremel chuck and the drill chuck. I secured one end of the dowel to the Dremel chuck. The other end was allowed to spin freely in the drill chuck. This worked well. I used files and a sanding blocks to taper the dowel. The first top gallant mast was shaped without incident. The second topgallant mast snapped at the post. It was a clean break, and I was able to pin and glue the two pieces together – no harm, no foul. The fids were made and shaped using 1/32” x 1/32” strip. The simulated sheaves were created/drilled through the masts using a .55mm drill bit. I followed the instructions, i.e., marking the hole locations on both sides of the mast and then drilling the holes on both sides. Lastly, I added the ball truck on the tip of the mast pole, made from a scrap piece of 1/8” dowel sanded/filed down to scale and then drilled to accommodate attachment to the pole. The truck was painted black. The masts were painted black between the cap and the heal of the mast and around the top sheave. I added brass pins to secure the yards. The 3/32" single blocks for the lifts, bunt lines, and royal stay (foremast) were rigged to the finished topgallant masts.  As a matter of clarification, Plan Sheet 5 does not show the 3/32” single blocks for the fore royal lifts. The plan is confusing in this regard. Refer Sheet 7 to see these blocks.

 

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I stepped the masts temporarily to check the fit and alignment. The main topgallant mast does have a noticeable rake aft. I had to file down the cross tree and the back side of the topgallant mast to get the proper rake. The fore topgallant mast had an excessive rake. Filing the cross tree and back side of the topgallant mast didn't correct the problem. The solution was to make a slightly longer cap, made from laser sheet stock. The longer cap is hardly noticeable. Next challenge, the jeer blocks and slings.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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FYI, before starting the jeer block and slings, while I was reviewing WalrusGuy’s build log, I notice his topgallant masts have some additional blocks. So, I began reviewing the rigging plan on Sheet 7 and discovered that there are four (4) 3/32” blocks on the fore topgallant mast (2 for the lifts, 1 for the buntline, and 1 for the main royal stay). The plan of the fore and main topgallant mast/pole on Sheet 5 doesn’t show all of the block. I added two blocks to the fore topgallant mast. Likewise, I discovered there are three (3) 3/32” single bocks on the main topgallant mast (2 for the lifts and 1 for the topgallant bunt line). I added another block for the top gallant bunt line (See photos). Reviewing Sheet 7 was time well spent. I reviewed the instructions concurrently with Sheet 7 and made notations on Sheet 7 for later reference. I marked-up the plan view of the fore and main topgallant masts to show all of the blocks (see attached). Now it’s on to the jeer blocks and slings. Stay tuned.

 

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Edited by abelson
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Steven E. Sylven

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I completed the jeer blocks and slings before permanently setting the masts – it’s easier that way. The jeer slings were made from .012 tan line (doubled). To make the slings, I wrapped the line around the handle of my x-acto knife, tied the line with an overhand knot, applied a little CA, and trimmed the ends with nail clippers.  The 1/8” single jeer blocks were seized to .012 black line. I looped the loose end of the line around the jeer sling and applied a little CA to create an eye and seized the line below the eye with some black sewing thread. The length of the jeer line from eye to tip of block is about 1 3/4”.

 

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The sling was made from .012 black line. I measured the length of the sling (about 5 ¾”) from the sling detail on Sheet 6. To err on the side of caution, I cut a 6” length of .012 black line. I made the oblong shaped stimulated thimble as shown on Sheet 6. The two loose ends have an eye. I made the eye on one end and then test fit the sling before looping the loose end through the completed eye. I found that had just enough line to loop the loose end through the eye and seize the line. So, for the next sling I cut a 6 1/2” length of .012 black line. Note: In the photo of the slings one sling is longer than the other. This is because the main lower yard is lower on the mast than the fore lower yard. Lastly, for the gaff throat halliard, I seized a generous length (17”) of .008 tan line to the 1/8” double block under the main top. Except for permanently stepping the masts, Chapter 17 is complete.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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8 hours ago, Matt D said:

Nicely done, Steven.  They look great!  Also, thanks for your description of the process to make them.

Thanks. I didn't find much discussion on how to make the jeer blocks and slings in other build logs so I thought I would add some. I hope it's helpful.

Steven E. Sylven

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  • 2 weeks later...

Started Chapter 18 by making the 28 gauge wire deadeye strops for the 2.5 mm (8 required) and 3.5mm (20 required) deadeyes. These were fairly easy to make. I set up a jig as per the instructions. I deviated from the instructions by gluing the deadeye after bending the wire around the deadeye. I found this to be easier, plus I could position the deadeye. I trimmed the excess wire and applied a little CA with a toothpick to secure the wire. I finished it off by filing the cut ends.

 

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Next, I made the eight (8) eye bolt links. I set up the jig and followed the instructions, except for one deviation. I crimped the link around the nails before cutting the wire. Cutting the wire after crimping gives is a little difficult but it gives a closer fit between the wires.

 

The middle links (36) and the toe links (36) were next. I had read in some build logs where the chain plate assemblies hang below the wale. To err on the side of caution, I made the links 3/16” instead of 1/4”. I set up the jig and went about making the links as per the instructions. The middle links are easy to make, the toe links not as easy. I decide to use the brass photo etched plate preventer links rather than make them from 28 gauge wire. I blackened all the links and assembled them. I bent the end of the toe links so they will lay flush with the hull when nailed.

 

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To position the link assemblies in the notches in the channel and apply CA to secure them I placed the ship on its side.  I completed the starboard side first. On the port side I changed my tack (no pun intended). I used white glue to set the assemblies. The assemblies stick to the more gelatinous white glue, making it easy to position them without tipping the ship on its side. After the white glue dried, I applied a little CA to secure the assemblies.

 

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Next, I added the 1/16” x 1/16” molding strip along the edge of each channel. I painted the strips on three sides before gluing them to the edge of the channel.

 

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I decided to permanently install the bumpkins. Before gluing them in-place, I seized a 1/8” single block to the end of each bumpkin using .008 black line. Note: The instructions in Chapter 20 say to seize a 3/32” single block to the end of the bumpkin for the fore course tack, but Sheet 7 notes the block is 1/8”. Also, I created an eye at the 1/8” block to seize the .008” tan rigging for the fore course tack. This is different than the instructions which call for this line to be seized to the end of the bumpkin behind the block. This mimics Bloemendaal’s build log. The bumpkins were finished off with a simulated iron bracket to hold the bumpkins down on top of the headrail. Making these is tricky because the bumkins aren’t square to the headrail. I tried a strip of copper tape first with no success. I ended up using a scrap strip of brass from the photo etched fittings. it took quite a bit of bending, twisting, and patience to get the proper shape for the brackets. Next up, securing the chain plates to the hull.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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Completed securing the chain plate assemblies to the hull. My concern about the chain plate assemblies hanging below the wale turned out not be a concern at all. The chain plates ended up being shorter than depicted on the plans. I used the kit provided brass pins to secure the chain plates. The pins are too long and need to be cut down.  Installing them was quite difficult and frustrating. I decided to follow the alignment/angle of the chain plates shown on the plans rather than rig a temporary shroud from the mast top.

 

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I secured the fore and main lower masts. I didn’t do anything special here, just used “yellow” carpenters glue per the instructions, eyeballed it, and held the masts in-place until the glue dried sufficiently for the mast to stand on its own. To get the proper angle for the main mast, I used a piece of cardboard that was cut at the same angle as the plan. I had to insert some wedges to hold the mast at the proper angle. I waited 24-hours before cutting off the wedges. To further secure the masts, I applied CA around the perimeter. The laser cut mast coats were slid down into position. I didn’t coat the coats to simulate canvas and tarring as some other build logs have done. On to the standing rigging.

 

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The main and fore mast lower pendants were next. These were made from .021 black line. To get an approximation of the length of line, I scaled the length of the pendent below the top 1.5" and added 1.25" to wrap around the mast. I made an eye in the end of the line by wrapping the line around a rounded needle nose plier, applying a little CA, and then seizing the line with black thread. I then cut the line at an angle 1.5" from the end of the eye. The ends of the two pendants were then glued and seized to the respective lines at a distance of 1 1/8” from the eye. The eyes were painted black. After installing the pendants, I attached a clip to the end of each pendant to stretch them out. The pendants ended up measuring just under 1.5". Credit to WalrusGuy for his build log photos documenting how he made the pendants. Next up, the main lower shrouds

 

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Edited by abelson

Steven E. Sylven

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  • 3 weeks later...

Began rigging the shrouds as per the instructions. To get the distance between the deadeyes I used a "deadeye claw" made from 20 gauge wire. I cut two lengths of wire, twisted them around each other, separated the end wires, bent the wires on one end, matched the bent ends with the deadeye plan on Sheet 5, and then bent the opposite end wires at the corresponding deadeye.  I applied CA to “solder” the twists.

 

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 Using Sheet 5 as a guide and allowing for wrap around the mast and the dead eye, I cut two lengths (about 18”) of .028 black line for the fore most starboard and portside main mast shrouds. I looped each line and seized it with .012 black line about ½” below the loop. The shrouds were looped over the main mast and passed through Lubbers Hole. Note: I believe the jeer lines are outside the shrouds, so, if you install the jeer lines ahead of the shrouds as I did, the jeer line must be passed through each shroud loop so that it is on the outside of the shrouds – in hindsight, I would have installed the jeers after completing the shrouds. With the claw in-place, I setup the first pair of shrouds on the starboard side, seized the deadeyes with .012 black line, and made the lanyards with Syren .008 light brown rigging line following the illustration in the instructions, except that I only made three lanyard hitches. Some of the perfection in the lanyard hitches will be covered by the sheer poles.

 

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For me, the difficult part of rigging the shrouds was seizing the deadeyes at the end of the shrouds. I setup the port side pair of shrouds in the same manner. I repeated the procedure for next pair of shrouds. Even with the claw, there are some deviations in the lengths of the lanyards. The perfectionist in me made me redo some of the shrouds. After a couple of failed attempts, I changed my tact. Still cutting an 18” length of .028 black line, I seized the deadeye at one end of the shroud off ship, setup the lanyard, passed the loose end through the Lubbers Hole, looped it around the mast, passed it through the Lubbe’s Hole, and seized the line at the mast head. I then setup the claw, seized the deadeye on the loose end, and set up the lanyard. This procedure work well for me. To hold the deadeye and shroud in-place, I clipped an allegator clip on the deadeye. Making sure that the deadeye holes were oriented correctly, I applied a little CA glue to the deadeye and shroud and removed the clip. This made it easier to seize the line. There are still some deviations in the lengths of the lanyards. There not perfect, but I’m willing to accept a little imperfection here.

 

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To complete the main lower shrouds, the last shroud was rigged on each side of the ship. I made these shrouds a little longer (11”) to account for lapping over the other shrouds and looping and seizing the line around the mast head. The deadeye and lanyard were rigged in the same manner. Next up, the main stay.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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Continuing with Chapter 18, I began the main stay rigging by making the mouse. I followed SalD’s method (excellent idea), i.e., I used a 5/64” diameter dowel and shaped the end in a pencil sharpener. I drilled a hole in the end of dowel with a .55mm bit first and then gradually increased the bit size to accommodate the .04 black main stay line. Then I roughly shaped the end dowel with sandpaper before inserting it into the pencil sharpener to get its basic shape. I measured the length of the mouse from Plan Sheet 5 and marked it in pencil on the dowel. Before cutting off the dowel, I scored the pencil line, removed some of the dowel with a knife and then filed around the score to get the basic shape of the mouse. I then cut off the dowel and finished shaping the mouse. The process is pretty easy. It’s important that the drill hole is centered in the dowel. I applied CA to the end of the main stay line to make it easier to pass it through the mouse.

 

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Next, I seized an eye onto one end of the rigging line using sewing thread. I measured the length of the main stay from Sheet 5, allowing extra length for the wrap around the mast head and seizing the 5mm closed heart to the loose end. I set up the main stay around the mast head temporarily to get the distance of the mouse from the mast (about 1 5/8”). I glued the mouse to the main stay and painted it black. I finished the mouse by seizing it with black thread.  I passed the loose end of the main stay through the eye and then inserted the line through the Lubbers Hole and looped it around the mast head and on top of the shroud gang - make sure the slings are on the outside of the main stay. As a matter of note, the orientation of the mouse and eye as shown in the photo on Page 96 of the instructions is opposite that shown on Plan Sheet 5. Some build logs have followed the orientation on the photo and some have followed the orientation on Sheet 5. I chose the orientation on Sheet 5 – I guess it’s a matter of preference.

 

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I seized a Syren 5mm closed heart to the loose end of the line with black sewing thread. Before I set up the lanyard, I realized that the main stay rigging was inside of the trestle trees rather than on the outside as depicted on Sheet 5 – OOPS! So, I had to remove the closed heart and re-thread the line so that it is on the outside of the trestle trees – PHEW!  With that done, I reeved the .012 tan lanyard between the main stay heart and the heart rigged on the foremast. I reeved the line 4 times around the hearts. I tied off the first reeve at the main stay heart. I didn’t tie off the last reeve; just applied CA to it on the back side of the main stay heart.

 

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Next, the main preventer stay. I made the mouse in the same manner as the main stay. I measured the length of the main preventer stay from Sheet 5, allowing extra length for the wrap around the mast head and seizing the 5mm closed heart to the loose end (about 17”). I set up the main preventer main stay around the mast head in the same manner as the main stay, making sure the line was on the outside of the trestle trees. I seized a Syren 5mm closed heart to the loose end of the main preventer stay. I had previously glued the eyebolt for the main preventer stay heart that is secured to the deck. I didn’t want to remove the eyebolt in order to seize the heart to it, so I decided to make a hook on the end of the 5mm closed heart using 22 gauge wire.  The eyebolt is in a confined space, so rather than hook the heart to the eyebolt and then set up the lanyard, I found it easier to set up the lanyard with the hooked heart off ship and then hook the heart to the eyebolt. This worked well. I was able to adjust the reeves to tighten the stay. So far so good. Now on to the fore lower shrouds. Stay tuned for update.

 

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Edited by abelson
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Steven E. Sylven

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Before starting on the fore lower shrouds, I decided to look at the blocks that need to be attached to the Main Stay. Plan Sheet 7 shows 3/32” D blocks. My Model Shipways kit was not furnished with 3/32” D blocks. Oddly, it was furnished with 13/32” S blocks, which are not noted anywhere on the plan sheets and are otherwise way to big (see photo).  Two pairs of 3/23” D blocks are required. Model Shipways offered to provide these. To clarify Sheet 7, I’ve included a latitudinal sketch showing the two (2) 3/32” D blocks that are required at two locations on the main stay. These blocks are for the Fore Top Sail Braces and the Fore Braces. The Fore Top Sail Braces pass (27) through the inside sheaves of the blocks and the Fore Braces (17) pass through the outside sheaves as noted on page 122 of the instruction manual. Will follow up with a photo when I receive the blocks.

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 3 weeks later...

I’m still waiting for the four (4) 2.5 mm (3/32”) pear wood double blocks from Model Expo. I wanted to seize them to the main stay before adding the fore lower shrouds but that’s not going to happen. In the meantime, I completed the first pair of shrouds on the starboard side and one shroud on the port side. I had to order more 3.5mm deadeyes. The kit comes with the exact number needed for the lower shrouds. I lost or misplaced 4 deadeyes. While waiting for the deadeyes, I decided to make the mouse for the fore stay and fore preventer stay same as the main stay and main preventer stay. I measured the length of .04 and .028 black line required for the stays using Sheet 7 and cut each length 13”, allowing for wrap around the mast head, the 5mm closed heart, and making the eyebolt. I set up each stay and determined where the mouse needs to be positioned and applied CA to secure it. I painted each mouse black and finished them by seizing with black thread. I’ll put this aside until I finish the fore lower shrouds.

 

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My Model Expo order arrived, so it’s on to the fore lower shrouds again. I completed the first port side pair, the second starboard and port side pairs, and the single shrouds. No problems here. I left the single shroud lanyards loose in case I have to remove them to install the lower double blocks on the main stay. Now, on to setting up the fore stay and fore preventer stay.

 

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The fore stay and fore preventer stay were setup with Syren 5mm closed heart (I like the thickness of these hearts over the laser cut ones provided with the kit) seized to the loose end of each stay. The closed hearts were set up with .012 tan lanyards reeved between the hearts and the open hearts on the bowsprit collars added in Chapter 16. This is a big milestone.  The rigging is starting to take shape. Now onto the sheer poles and futtock staves.

 

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Lashed a 1/32”x 1/32” sheer pole and futtocks stave on the starboard and port side of the main lower shrouds. I painted them black before lashing them. The sheer poles were easier to lash than the staves. The futtock shrouds are next. I seized a hook to one end of each .021 black shroud.  The hooks were made from 1/32” brass eyebolts.  After seizing the hook, I cut the line to about 2" long. The hooks were attached to the deadeye plates and the loose ends were wrapped around the futtock stave, glued to hold them in-place, seized to the lower shrouds and trimmed. I used black sewing thread for the seizing. So far, I’ve completed the port side futtocks shrouds.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finished the starboard side shrouds. For the catharpins, I followed WalrusGuy’s build where the catharpins are lashed in two parts to the shrouds. I made the first part of the catharpins from .018 black line made with an eye splice at each end and 1 1/8” long. Note: I realized later, after looking at the detail on Sheet 5, that the catharpins should be shorter (about ¾”) - it’s important to look at the plan sheets as well as the instructions. The second part consists of short lengths of .018 black line reeved through the eye splice and tied around the stave at each end as shown on Sheet 5. The first part was easy. The second part was difficult because of the need to adjust the lengths of the tie lines to center and tension the eye spliced line. I set up the ties port and starboard, secured one loose end with CA, reeved the other loose end through the eye, wrapped it around the stave and attached a clip to it (see photo). Then, I adjusted the clips to center the eye splice line, secured one tie with CA, and then tensioned the line by pulling on the loose end of the other tie and securing it with CA. The loose ends were trimmed. After a couple of failed attempts, I successfully completed the cartharpins. I'm satisfied with how they turned out, although one has a little kink in the line (from CA glue).  I hope the lower fore main cartharpins will be easier.

 

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I’m still waiting for 3/32” double blocks for the main stay. Model Expo sent 3/16” single blocks instead of 3/32” double blocks. In the meantime, I decided to begin “rattling down” the lower shrouds. I used the prototypical card with lines on it to help evenly space and level the rat lines.  I spaced the lines at a ¼” (0.22 row spacing on an Excel spreadsheet).  The .008 ratlines were tied using clove hitches, except for the first shroud where an overhead knot was used – found it easier to secure the line this way. This is definitely tedious work – patience is a virtue here. I found the process easier as you move up the shrouds. I applied CA to each clove hitch and touched them up with some diluted black paint. So far, I’ve completed the port side lower main shrouds and futtocks shrouds rat lines, but not without incident. While doing the rat lines on the futtock shrouds, the seizing on the aft most shroud came undone at the hook - Murphy's Law. I decided against reconstructing it. I was able to re-seize it. I don't really like the way it turned out, but I'm willing to accept some imperfection here over the aggravation of otherwise having to replace it.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 2 weeks later...

While still waiting for my Model Expo order, I decided to make the main topmast pendants. These were made from .018 black line. Starting with the fore top mast, I made an eye at the end of the line by wrapping the line around a rounded needle nose plier, applying a little CA, and then seizing the line with black thread. To get an approximation of the length of line, I scaled the length of the pendent below the top (3/4") and added 3/4" to fit over the cheeks on top of the mast. I then cut the line at an angle 1 ½” long. The cut ends of the two pendants were then glued and seized to the respective lines at a distance of 1” from the eye. The eyes were painted black. After installing the pendants, I attached a clip to the end of each pendant to stretch them out. Note: With the method I used to make the pendants, I had to remove the 1/8” single block for the main top gallant stay in order to install the pendants. No problem though, as I was able to re-rig the 1/8” block with the top mast off ship.

 

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One dilemma though. I finally received my Model Expo order. The order included four (4) 1/8” (3.0mm) double blocks instead of 3/32” (2.5mm) double blocks. I decided to order Falkonet 2.5mm blocks from Model Expo. These blocks match the scale of the 3/32” D block shown on Plan Sheet 7. They are very small and need to be drilled out in order to reeve the .012 line for the top braces through them. I reviewed some other build logs to see what size blocks were used. I found photos but no discussion on this. But, based on the photos are saw it appears that other build logs have used blocks larger than 3/32”. FYI, there is a discrepancy in the pictorial size of the main stay blocks on Sheet 7. The upper D blocks are depicted larger than the lower D blocks – they’re both noted as 3/32”. The upper D block near the mouse appears to be 1/8”. For comparison purposes, I superimposed a 1/8” D block, a Falkonet 3/32” D block, and a 3/32” S block on Sheet 7 (see photos).  The 3/32” Falkonet block appears to be slightly smaller than the 3/32” S block. So, the dilemma is, what size block to use. I might be over analyzing this, but I think the 3/32” blocks are too small for the .012 rigging line, so I will use the 1/8” D blocks.

 

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Accomplished my goal of installing the 1/8” double blocks for the Fore Top Sail Braces and the Fore Braces.  To the novice eye, I don’t think the larger blocks will be noticeable. The process was simple – seized some .012 black line to each block, tied the loose ends to the main stay with an overhand knot, applied CA to the knot, trimmed the ends, and painted the knots black.

 

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Thought this would be a good time to add 3/32” S blocks to the traveler rings on the jib boom. These were set up in the same manner as the 1/8” D blocks above.

 

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Lashed the sheer poles and the futtocks staves to the fore lower yards. I used sewing thread to lash the futtocks staves. Next, the futtock shrouds were wrapped around the futtocks stave a la the main shrouds. The fore lower catharpins were rigged same as the main lower catharpins. Note without incident though.  Murphy’s Law reared its head again – I got a little overzealous in tensioning the catharpin and the futtocks stave snapped. I was able reset it with some CA glue – catastrophe averted. Whew.  Next up, the fore lower shroud rat lines. Stay tuned.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 3 weeks later...

Completed the lower shroud rat lines. All and all, I’m happy with the way they turned out.

 

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I decided to build a jolly boat that I purchased from Crafty Sailor. The scale of the kit is 1:72 (1/16” scale). The kit jolly boat is 2 3/4” long (14 ½’ at 1/16th scale). At the Syren scale of 1:64, the jolly boat would be 3 3/32” (16 1/2’ at 3/16” scale). To the novice eye, the difference won’t be noticeable.  So, a little shorter boat is okay with me – I’m not looking for authenticity here. If you buy this kit, you’ll need to read the instructions very carefully as they’re a little confusing. The kit comes with 3 laser cut sheets (1 pear and 2 plywood). It’s very important to soak the ribs at least overnight in order to bend them. After installing each rib, I wiped a little water on it with my finger and then dried it with a hair dryer. I’m satisfied with the way they turned out. The transom piece was beveled to the engraved line and then glued to the keel frame.

 

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The planking boards were next. They’re numbered successively on the laser cut plan sheet from a7 to a13 and marked R (starboard side) and L (port side). The ends of each plank (except for the last plank a13) are beveled and the burrs are sanded smooth before soaking them. Note: the laser cut (taper) should be installed face down to reduce the width of the joints. The planks are alternated port and starboard or starboard and port depending on your preference. Installing the planks is tricky. I started at the keel and worked back to the transom, applying CA to each rip one at a time. Once completed, the planks were sanded, wood filler was applied to fill in the joints, and finish sanded. Next, I removed the jig with no problem. With that done, I assembled the keel pieces and glued the complete keel to the boat. This was a little tricky – a lot the sanding to get the proper profile to fit the keel. The boat looks surprisingly good, but small.

 

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Added the “shoulders” to the hull as per the instructions. They are very thin. I soaked them, fit them on the hull, and held them in-place with small clothespins while I glued them. I applied a little CA on the underside of the shoulders with a toothpick. Before installing the boat interior trim, I primed the hull below the shoulder and later brushed on two (2) coats of finish white paint (ModelExpo MS4831). I wasn’t sure how to finish the interior of the boat. I have read where other modelers have used tung oil, so I decided to try it. I like the finish, but the contrast in color between the pear wood and boxwood wood is quite obvious.

 

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Completed the rest of the interior trim (see photos for progression) and applied tung oil. Note: I pre-fit the stern benches, glued them together, and then installed them as a complete unit. The breast hook broke while I was beveling it, so I had to fabricate a new breast hook. It’s not identical but it fills the void, so to speak. Added ringbolts fore and aft to hang the jolly boat. I Made up the double block tackles for the davits. I used 3.0mm blocks and .012 tan line. I drilled a hole on the underside of each davit for an eyebolt. I seized a generous length .012 line to each eyebolt and then glued each one in the predrilled hole. I then reeved the line through the blocks and the davit sheaves. I’m thinking, given the high seas, that the jolly boat would have been more secured than just hanging it from a hook – just my thoughts. Remaining bits are the backboard, rudder, tiller, gudgeons, pintles, mast, and oars. It was a good exercise in a miniature side build.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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Finished the jolly boat. Added the backboard, rudder, tiller, gudgeons and pintles, mast and oars. The gudgeons and pintles were difficult because they are so small. The oars are delicate and require a lot of sanding. I plan to leave it off ship for now. With that done, I’m moving on to main top mast shrouds. Stay tuned for progress.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 3 weeks later...

Completed the main topmast shrouds (.021 blk).  I found them particularly difficult. To get the pair of 2.5mm deadeyes at the ends of the shrouds reasonably equal requires the use of a “deadeye claw.” I found it difficult to hold the deadseyes on the claw. I used alligator clips for this. Starting on the starboard side, I rigged the shrouds in alternating pairs as per the instructions. I cut a 13” length of .021 line for each pair. I looped each line and seized it with .012 black line about 5/8” below the loop. This allowed for the line to be placed over the cheek blocks on the top of the mast. The spacing between the deadeyes on the topmast shrouds is the same is the lower shrouds, so I used the same deadeye claw. These are tricky because they’re so small. I looped the line around the deadeye, held it in-place with a small clothes pin, and applied a little CA with a toothpick to hold the deadeye in-place, making sure the holes are in the proper orientation. This allowed for the line be seized without the deadeye falling off. I removed the shroud and seized the deadeye off-ship. The second deadeye was setup in the same manner. I setup the port side shrouds in the same way. The lanyards were rigged with Syren .008 light brown rigging line (a 6” length is about right for reeving through the deadeyes and the hitches around the shroud).  I made three (3) clove hitches - the clove hitches look nice but they’ll be covered up by the sheer pole. I removed the fore top rail to facilitate the shrouds. Before completing the shrouds and adding the futtocks stave, I added the Sister Blocks (two 3/32” single blocks glued together, end-to-end) between the first pair of shrouds. I located the top of the blocks 1/4” below the cross trees as scaled on Sheet 5, which places them higher than they appear in the photo on Page 102 of the instructions.  The instructions say they are placed just above the futtock stave. The futtocks stave would be about ½” below the top of the sister blocks.

 

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Completed the main topmast shrouds – phew. I ran out of Syren .008 tan rope for the lanyards. Syren ran out of tan rope, so I had to use the kit supplied .008 manila hemp. The difference in color is noticeable now but overtime, as the model ages., may not be noticeable.  Added the top mast sheer pole and futtock stave (1/32” x 1/32” strip). I painted them first, glued them to the shrouds, lashed them with sewing thread, and touched up the paint.

 

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The topmast rat lines (.008 blk) were done next and similar to the lower mast. I made a copy of the fore top mast shrouds from plan Sheet 5 and placed it behind the shrouds to see how it lined up. I was surprised how closely the alignment of the shrouds matched the plan (see photo). Decided to buy some 5mm cleats from the Syren Model Co. rather than of using the kit supplied metal cleats. I shaped them to resemble the kit supplied cleats, painted them black, glued them to the shrouds above the sheer poles, and lashed them with sewing thread. I used white glue to adhere the cleats to the shrouds. The Syren cleats have a groove in the center of them that makes it easy to lash them to the shrouds. I wrapped the sewing thread around the cleat, tied it, wrapped it around again, tied it, glued it, and trimmed it. I’ve completed the port side aft shrouds.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 2 weeks later...

Completed the main topmast shroud rat lines, cleats, the single upper catharpins. I got a little overzealous and broke the starboard side davit. It was an easy fix though -just a little white glue.

 

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I made up the cartharpins (.021 black) basically the same as the lower cartharpins (See April 9 post on Page 4) except that I used small clothes pins instead of metal clips to hold the tie lines. This is where you see if the futtock staves are set at the same elevation. My fore top mast staves were a little off. Looking head on, the catharpin was not level (see photo). So, I decided to redo the starboard side stave (see photo) - still not perfect, but much better. Here are photos of the completed main topmast shrouds. Now it’s on to main topmast backstays.  But first I need to order more 2.5mm deadeyes.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 2 weeks later...

Set up the claws temporarily to determine the length .021 black line for the main topmast backstays. I looped the loose ends of the line around the top mast head and then around the claw and allowed enough length for turning the deadeye and seizing the line. I seized the line around the topmast head – starboard side first followed by port side. I’ll complete backstays when I receive my order of 2.5mm deadeyes. In the meantime, I made the mouse for the .028 black main topmast stay and the .021 main topmast preventer stay a la the main stay (see July 12 post on Page 4). I had to ream the 5/32” block rigged to the fore mast below the catharpins in order to reeve the .028 line through the block. Unfortunately, in reaming the block, it split in half. So, I had to lash a new block to the mast. A word to the wise: make sure the .028 line will pass through the 5/32” block before lashing it to the mast. I decided to add the 3/32” single block for the main topmast staysail down haul (refer to Sheet 7) to the main top mast stay before setting it up with a lanyard. I also added the 3/32 single block for the main topmast staysail hallard on the port side of the main topmast stay above the mouse. I made an eye at the end of the block to tie the hallard to later.

 

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The main topmast preventer stay was next. I had to ream the block rigged to the fore top in order to pass the .021 line. Fortunately, this was done without incident. I added the two 3/32” single blocks for the main topsail braces and the two 3/32” single blocks for the topgallant braces above the mouse.

 

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While waiting for my 2.5mm deadeyes to arrive, I decided to set up the main topmast stay and preventer stay before rigging the topmast back stays. I created an eye on the end of each stay per the instructions. I used .012 tan line for the lanyards. I tied one loose end to the stay eye and then reeved the other end though the eyebolt in the deck “abaft of the fore mast.” I made three (3) passes with the line, tied it off at the eye on the stay, secured it with CA, and trimmed the end. The lanyards aren’t quite equal in length.

 

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Set it up the fore topmast preventer stay (.021 blk) with a mouse around the fore topmast head. Reeved the loose end through the bees on the starboard side, set it up with an eye and lanyard, and lashed it to the eyebolt on the starboard side of the bow – a bit tricky. Added the 3/32” single block just above the jibboom for the fore topmast staysail downhaul. Seized a 3/32” single block on the starboard side of the topmast stay above the mouse. This block is for the fore topmast staysail hallard. Fore topmast stay (.028 blk) was set up like the fore topmast preventer stay. The loose end is reeved through the bees on the port side and set up with an eye and a lanyard.

 

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I received my order of 2.5mm deadeyes, so its on to rigging the topmast backstays. I set these up same as the topmast shrouds. With that done, it’s time to secure the fore and main topgallant mast/pole and add the top gallant shrouds. Stay tuned.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I thought I would add that I'm a year and eight (8) months into my build - tedious work and attention to detail requires time and a lot of patients. Made progress on the standing rigging. Secured the fore and main topgallant mast/pole and rigged the shrouds (.018 black) as per the instructions. I cut a 13” length of .018 line for the fore pair of shrouds and a 26” length of line for the aft pair of shrouds. The aft-most shroud (main topgallant backstay) was set up with an eye and a lanyard (.008 tan) attached to the eye bolt on the main channel.  The main royal backstays (.012 black) and tackles were next, followed by the main royal stay (.012 black) and the main topgallant stay (.012 black). The fore royal backstay running tackles were difficult to belay to the pin rail because of the long boat. In hindsight, I think it would have been better to lash down the long boat later.

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I finished the fore topgallant stay and the fore royal stay. I had previously reeved these lines through the fairlead and dolphin striker and set up the lanyard back in Chapter 16 (see March 18th post, Page 3), so all I had to do was seize the lines around the fore gallant mast and the fore royal pole, respectively, and tighten up the lanyards. This turned out to be a good idea.

 

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I made the bowsprit horses next. I hadn’t seen much discussion in other build logs on how to make these. However, I did take a page out of JesseLee’s build log and decided to pre-rig the horses off ship. I improvised here, as follows:

1.      Rather than use 1/32” x 1/32” strips/battens, I used 1/16” x 1/16” strips, cut about ½” long.

2.      Instead of lashing the strips, I drilled a hole at each end of a test strip to reeve the .018 line. The ends of the test strip split when drilled. To avoid this, using the test strip as a template, I marked the location of the holes for three battens on a longer strip, drilled the holes, and then cut the individual strips.

3.      Sanded the strips to reduce them somewhat in size.

4.      Set up the three (3) battens and horses, spaced apart as per the Sheet 5, on a piece masking tape to hold them in-place.

5.      Cut a square piece of netting to fit between the aft battens, placed it on the battens, and applied CA to secure it.

6.      Removed the .018 line and lashed the netting to the battens with black thread.

7.      Made an eye on the bow end of each horse. Removed the eyebolts from the bowsprit cap, attached them to the eye, and re-inserted the eyebolts into the bowsprit cap.

8.      Reeved the loose end of the horses through the battens and the eyebolts on the splash guard and attached a clip to each loose end to hold the lines taut.

9.      Slid the battens into their proper positions and applied CA to secure them.

10.   Lashed the netting to the horses with black sewing thread.

11.   Made an eye at the loose end of each horse. Note: Cut the line long enough to allow for the horses to be pulled upward when tied to the fore stay with the “leg.”

12.   Removed the eyebolts from the splash guard, attached them to the horse eyes and reinserted them into the splash guard.

13.   Cut a short length of .018 line and seize it to the fore stay just above the closed heart.

14.   Looped each loose end of the leg around the horse, applied tension to the horse by lifting the leg, and applied CA to hold it. Seized each leg to the horse with black sewing thread.

 

This procedure worked well for me. The most difficult part is tensioning the horses and seizing the “leg.” The leg pulled down the fore top mast stay slightly. Overall, the horses aren’t perfect, but I’ll accept some imperfection. I wanted to move on to the jib stay and flying jib stay, but I ran out of .018 black line, so I'll have to order more from Model Expo. In the meantime, I think I’ll start on constructing the boom and gaff. Stay tuned for progress.

 

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Edited by abelson
Update

Steven E. Sylven

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  • 4 weeks later...

Completed the boom and gaff. Following the instructions, this was a fairly easy, enjoyable task. Tapering is the most time consuming part. For this, I used a battery powered drill. I cut the dowels long enough to allow for inserting them into the drill chuck. I decided to leave the boom and gaff finish natural. I applied one coat of Minwax Golden Oak. I painted over the pinstriped simulated iron bands with black paint. FYI, there’s a discrepancy on Sheet 6 - the gaff cleats should be on the side of the gaff and not on the top and underside as depicted in the plan view. The elevation view shows the cleat correctly as does the picture on Page 108 of the instructions. I fell victim to the discrepancy. It was one of those oh s__t moments. I have noticed that others have fallen victim to this discrepancy too. Also, there is another discrepancy on Sheet 6 - the elevation view shows the gaff vangs seized to the pendent block. This is not correct. The vangs are seized to the eyebolt on the bulwarks.

 

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Added the 3/32” single blocks on the gaff as shown on Sheet 6. Rigged the vang pendants (.012 blk) ahead of time. Seized a I/8” double block to the eye on the gaff jaws. Blackened the beads and strung them (6 beads per parrel) on the parrel lines and seized the lines to the boom and gaff jaws.Insert 

 

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Attached the gaff to the mast below the catharpins. In doing so, I realized that another bead was necessary, so I added it. The loose end of the parrel line was reeved through the jaws, tied off and secured with CA.  I set up the gaff throat halliard with a generous length of .008 tan line that I had previously seized to the 1/8” block under the main top. The loose end of the halliard is belayed to the port side pin rail. The peak halliard was next. It was rigged as per the instructions and belayed to the fife rail. With that done, I added the vangs (.008 tan).

 

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I decided to attach the boom to the main mast before completing the gaff rigging. After seizing the parrel to the jaw, I realized that I forgot to add the foot ropes – I wanted to do them with the boom off ship. BTW, I discovered another discrepancy between the plans and the instructions: The instructions say to use .012 black line for the foot ropes but plan Sheet 6 calls out .008 black line. I decided to use .012 line to match the jib boom. I cut two, 6” lengths of .012 line --and added the foot rope knots (11 per rope) on each length. I left loose ends on the knots so that they could be adjusted and trimmed. I Seized one foot rope to the boom, adjusted each knot so that they are ¼” apart, applied CA to each knot, and cut off the loose ends. For the second rope, I tied the knots and spaced and trimmed them before seizing the rope to the boom. Completed the boom topping lifts, boom sheet, and boom sheets, and finished them off with rope coils.

 

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In the instructions, at the end of the boom topping lift paragraph, it says, “Note the “leg” of .008 rigging that runs from the topping lift to the boom. It is shown on the rigging plans. This should be rigged as well.”   It is not shown on the plans. SalD’s build log picked up on this too. He notes that the line is shown on page 122 in Chapter 20 – it’s in the photo on Page 125 in my instructions. Thank you, Sal. I tried adding the “leg” but had difficulty. So, I decided to leave well enough alone and to not add the leg. I notice some other build logs have done likewise or otherwise overlooked this.

 

I had previously made flag staff chocks, so I decided to add a flag staff which was made from 1/8” dowel. I also added the flag staff halyard (0.008 tan). The flag staff halyard runs through a 3/32 single block at the end of the staff.  The free ends are tied off to a cleat on the side of the flag staff. The end of flag staff has a ball made from the head of a craft pin and painted gold. I added some rope coils at the transom.

 

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One of the things that I find difficult with rigging is belaying the lines to the rails. What helps is CA glue. After the initial wrap around the belaying pin, I apply a little CA to the line. This keeps the line taut and allows for wrapping the line around the pin at the top of the rail. I apply a little CA with each pass, if necessary.

 

For the rope coils, I made a jig using Tom Lauria’s Rigging Tips: Making Scale Hanks on YouTube. I laid out an ellipse measuring ½” x 3/16”. I drilled 12 holes along the perimeter of the ellipse and inserted a common pin in each hole. I then nipped off the pins at a height of about ¼”.  I used a 1/16 drill bit for the loop. The first coil didn’t come out too well. The second was a keeper. Each subsequent coil was a challenge – some were keepers, some were throwaways. I’ll need to make many more.

 

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Moved on to finishing Chapter 18 by adding the Flying jib stay (.018 blk), Jib Stay (.018 blk), Inhaul for the jib stay traveler (.008 tan), and Inhaul for the flying jib stay traveler (.008 tan).  These were done as per the instructions. The only problem I had was belaying the lines. I found it very difficult to belay the lines in the traditional under/over manner in such tight guarters. By luck, I was able to snag one pin and belay the line in the traditional manner. For the others, I simply wrapped the line around the head of the pin and glued it. I'm hoping the rope coils will hide this. Next, it's back to Chapter 19 and the staysail rigging. Stay tuned.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 2 weeks later...

Started on the main topmast staysail downhaul. I had previously seized the 3/32” single block to the main topmast stay. I created an eye on the end of the .012 tan downhaul line. So far so good, but, I could not run the line through the block. This is where it all fell apart, literally. In trying to run the line through the block, I snagged one the lines, and pulled down the fore top mast (the Fid broke). Another oh s__t moment. I was ready to put the ship in dry dock. Upon assessment, I was able to push the fore top mast up and secure it with CA. A disaster averted. But, Murphy’s Law crept up. Somehow, the fore topgallant mast/pole snapped above the cap. It snapped at the point where I had inserted a pin to hold the royal yard. I’m not sure if this was a ramification of the of fore top mast mishap.  In hindsight, it was a bad idea to insert the pin – it weakened the mast. Luckily, I was able to set the mast back into position and secure it with CA. It lists a little but, considering the consequences, I can live with that. I decided to take a little reprieve to regroup.

 

Well, after a short reprieve, I was able to rig the main topmast staysail downhaul (.012 tan) and main topmast staysail halliard (.008 tan). The downhaul was run through the Lubber’s hole and down to the port side rail abaft the main mast and belayed to pin “N.” I was able to snag the pins and belay the lines in the traditional under/over manner. Moving on, I seized 3/32” single blocks, two on the main top gallant stay and two on the main royal stay per the plan on Sheet 6 and set up the main topgallant staysail downhaul (.008 tan) and the main topgallant staysail halliard (.008 tan). These lines are belayed to shroud cleats above the main and fore tops. The cleats are not depicted on the plans, but their locations are noted on the Belaying Plan. It’s a little confusing, so study the Belaying Plan well before proceeding. The main topgallant staysail downhaul (.008 tan) is belayed to the aft-most shroud cleat (O) on the fore top port side. The main topgallant staysail hilliard (.008 tan) is belayed to the 2nd shroud cleat (P) on the main top port side. I assumed the 2nd shroud is the 2nd fore-most shroud. I found it very difficult to belay the lines, so I simply wrapped the lines around the cleats, applied CA, and snipped the lines. They’ll be covered later with rope coils.

 

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Completed the remaining staysail rigging (.008 tan) per the instructions. The Belaying Plan clarifies where the various lines are belayed. I did have one minor do-over, I had earlier seized the 3/32” single block for the flying jib sail downhaul on the starboard side of the traveler ring rather the port side as explained in the instructions. The lesson here is, don’t get too far ahead of yourself. Again, I had a very difficult time belaying the downhaul lines to the pin rails at the bow. I was unable to do it in the conventional way. It looks really amateurish. Hopefully, the rope coils will hide this. If anyone has a good way to do this, I’m all ears. Oh, I did have another do-over. The fore royal stay became slack while rigging the flying jib halliard, so I had to re-do the lanyard at the bow. The staysail rigging was clearly not my shining moment, but I’m satisfied with how it turned out.  Now, on to constructing the yards. This will be the last post this year, so happy holidays to all! Photos follow.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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  • 4 weeks later...

First post of the new year, and now 21 months into the build. Began constructing the lower yard arms (5/32” dowels) basically following the instructions and using the plan. To taper the dowels, I used a poor man's lathe made from two hand drills (see photo). I cut the dowels long enough to insert the ends into the drill chuck. The end the dowel that was being tapered was secured in the drill chuck. The opposite end was allowed to rotate freely in the chuck of the other drill.  I used 1/16” strips to create the octagon shape. The strips were beveled. The gaps between strips (minor) were filled with wood filler and then sanded smooth. The sling cleats were made from 1/16" strips. I made a notch in the bottom of the strip and then cut two pieces to size and glued them to the yard. The yard arm cleats were made using a 1/32” strip. I applied a little CA to secure the cleats before shaping them. I copied WalrusGuy’s build log and installed simulated iron bands around the spar battens – it’s a nice supplemental detail. I also added the inner boom iron, positioned about 1/3 the distance from the end of the yard arm. I used 1/16” pinstripe tape for the bands and the inner boom iron. Applied a little CA to secure the cut ends of the tape. I drilled a hole in backside of each yard arm and pinned them, temporarily, to the masts. As much as I liked the natural look of the yards, I decided to paint them black, as most builders have done. The downside of painting them black is that the detailing is not as visible.

 

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I continued making the yards. The topsail yards and topgallant yards were constructed using a 1/8” diameter dowels. Don’t forget the simulated sheaves. The royal yards are made using a 3/32” diameter dowel. Like the lower yard arms, the topsail, top gallant, and royal yards were painted black.

 

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The stuns’l booms were next. I made them from a 5/64” diameter dowel. I didn’t have enough dowel to make all of the stuns’l booms (I was one short) so I had to order more from Model Expo - on back order. I stained the booms with Golden Oak. Note, l didn’t bother to give the inboard ends of the booms an octagonal shape.

 

Following Chuck’s instructions, the stuns’l boom irons were easier to make than I anticipated. To simulate the hinges on the boom irons I used 22 gauge wire as per the instructions. Rather than to cut and glue tiny lengths of wire, I laid the wire on the boom iron, as if I were going to solder it, and applied CA with a toothpick to adhere the wire to the brass iron. After letting the CA set for a short time, I snipped the wire at the edge of the iron with a nail clipper and filed the ends smooth. I painted the completed boom irons black with Model Color acrylic-colors paint purchased at Hobbie Lobby. This is big step completed. Next, I drilled holes at a 45 degree angle in the pinstripe tape used for the inner boom irons. Before drilling, I pierced the tape with a sewing needle to prevent the tape from getting torn up. I inserted the inner boom irons into the drilled holes and then painted them while on the yard arm - an easy way to paint them. I test fit the boom irons on the lower yards (see photos).

 

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The yard arm footrope stirrups were made with 28 gauge wire, wrapped 3-times around the yard, and with the stirrup hanging from the backside of the yard. CA was applied to secure the stirrups. An eye was formed on the end of the stirrup and some sewing thread was added to simulate seizing above the eye. I completed the stirrups on the lower yards. More to follow. Stay tuned.

 

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Steven E. Sylven

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