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Gokstad Viking Ship by Dr PS - Paul Schulze - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale


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I will be starting my third ship build log.  Gokstad Viking Ship, a Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale  The model is based on a find near Gokstad Norway in 1880. The prototype was built in mid ninth century. The ship was shown to be very seaworthy by Magnus Anderson in 1893. The ship had 32 oars and a square sail. 
 

I will be starting the actual building in a couple weeks but I would like to post the usual kit pictures. 
 

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Just a quick follow-up:

I found this reference invaluable for understanding the construction of the ship. It is the original 1882 Norwegian narrative describing the archeological discovery. Text is in both Norwegian and English. (Found it as one of the “further reading “ references in Wikipedia article on this ship, in case the link below doesn’t work). 
 

http://resolver.sub.uni-goettingen.de/purl?PPN561535841 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well, I have finally started the build. After reading the instructions, I have decided to  follow them for assembling the keel, frames and false deck. I think the false deck should properly align the frames. Some others  have found success building jigs to aid in frame installation and alignment. First I drilled the required holes in the stem and stern posts. 15507F5D-F0C1-4418-8230-7875A0D2F48C.thumb.jpeg.ef6050fa96c3fb53ffbb61310870ed6c.jpeg
Next, I glued the two keel pieces together between wax paper held down by a “sad” iron. Sad irons were fire heated clothes irons. EC85E50A-BE15-475E-8660-05023890A51E.thumb.jpeg.54f37b554daf7e8016f8bbac0201572f.jpeg0DE9B313-E25B-4289-8D73-5C9F8E104D3B.thumb.jpeg.3b82e7526cb5156f508d03d112deb980.jpeg

Then the finished piece was stained Kona color  9B524BDB-7F6D-416B-B229-055033B83D5C.thumb.jpeg.a58896297637136e735bd9951730a68e.jpeg

 

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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Just a suggestion:

I found the jig in this build log listed below very useful. Even using the jig, with the keel and frames quite plumb and square, aligning some of the planks from one frame to another was a challenge. 
Nice color choice. 

Gokstad Viking Ship by jack.aubrey - Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale

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6 hours ago, Srodbro said:

Just a suggestion:

I found the jig in this build log listed below very useful. Even using the jig, with the keel and frames quite plumb and square, aligning some of the planks from one frame to another was a challenge. 
Nice color choice. 

Gokstad Viking Ship by jack.aubrey - Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale

Thanks for your suggestion. I am not sure what I will do as yet. 

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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Jonathan11 said:

Johnathan, thanks for the translation. I looked at a bit of it and it looks like a fantastic read. 

Edited by Dr PS - Paul Schulze
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  • 1 month later...

 I have not posted in a while but progress was made. The following photos and brief comments will take this log up to date. 

Finished Keel all stained. 

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Below, the keel, frames and false deck were simultaneously assembled and glued. 

 

86D0116D-4B31-468F-AB88-D954D2934984.thumb.jpeg.c17c1cfe705acb5c35b845ddcd4dc114.jpeg
 

 

 

Next the garboard is fitted and glued. 
 

5932DA21-C320-4F85-85BB-D864D5382CB4.thumb.jpeg.88e516f2106a8bde5db6a1b4b7e130ff.jpeg

 

Then other strakes were attached. 
 

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The deck and interior. 
 

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The mast foot is fashioned using a dremel. 

 

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The deck was stained with a light oak stain. The mast foot, shown, was stained and attached. The rudder, hand sanded, is shown ready for staining. 

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A9EE36F3-AE5F-4E13-BE0F-C03B5D703C1C.jpeg

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I used to hit this problem, too. I finally worked out how to fix it. Once you're in "Edit" you have to go down to the bottom of the post and delete the pictures from "uploaded images". Then you have to go back to the post itself, and "cut" the unwanted photos from the bottom of the post - otherwise they'll come back. That will get rid of them permanently.

 

Hope that is explained properly and is of use to you.

 

The ship is looking good by the way and that mast step is particularly nicely done. But I noticed in one of the photos you're about to get rid of (the view from above)  there seems to be a small "kink" in the planking on the right near the bottom of the picture (second frame from the bow - or stern - who can tell with these double-ended ships?). Or is that just a fault of the photo?

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22 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

 

The ship is looking good by the way and that mast step is particularly nicely done. But I noticed in one of the photos you're about to get rid of (the view from above)  there seems to be a small "kink" in the planking on the right near the bottom of the picture (second frame from the bow - or stern - who can tell with these double-ended ships?). Or is that just a fault of the photo?

Yes there is a small kink on that side near the stern.  I noticed it later after I was finished planking and did not know how to fix it except to remove several layers and  reshape the frames as needed. That option was nixed as I have been using CA glue for the strakes.  I should have been more careful and watched the fairing as I proceeded. 

 

Thanks for your comments, Paul 

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Yes, I was trying to figure out how it might be possible to remedy it without a great deal of success. Isn't it possible to dissolve CA with nail polish remover? Otherwise I suppose the only other option is to put it down to experience. Never having attempted to do clinker planking I'm certainly not in a postion to criticise, and in fact I was rather loath to even bring the subject up. 

 

IF it was possible to dissolve the glue just at that second frame it might be possible to free the strakes up, let them assume their "natural" shape (i.e. to follow the rest of the curve) and either cut out that side of the frame and replace it, or put a packer in to increase the width of the frame and then cut out the existing part. Just a thought, and it might be completely impractical, but perhaps worth looking at as an option.

 

Having said that, the unevenness isn't terribly obvious and when everything else is added (especially the shields), it will probably become quite hard to see.

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I thought about using acetone to free them up, but allowing the strakes to follow their natural flow would result in shortening the strakes at the stem. The only solution then would be to cut new boards  I believe you are correct in saying the shields will hide small errors. I have not had this issue before but I have learned I have to be more careful. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I assume the prototype had black and yellow shields else I would have gone with more colors. The boat builders did a fabulous job and they had fantastic skills for the tenth century. 
 

I finally finished the sail. Using the following steps :

 

- Cut sail out

 

- Mark sew lines and edge fold line with lead pencil

 

- Cut corners for folding

 

-  Fold sail edges over twice using fabric glue and a hot iron

 

- Mark and “punch” small holes in sail edge every 1/2” for needles. These holes will also be used to attach sail to mast. 

 

- Use needle and .35 rope around sail edge

 

- Use same process for sail ties

 

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