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H.M. Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - FINISHED


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Afternoon!

 

Ok, this one is going to take me a little longer than the prototypes of VM's Fifie and Zulu! I'll try to keep this updated as often as I can if there's some real interest. Flirt is based on the previous Speedy kit, but with some notable differences. The model itself won't have a launch as standard, and there are differences to the rig too, plus the deadeyes are replaced with pear wood heart blocks. She also won't be coppered below the waterline, instead being painted white. Before I kick off with the hull, I built the temporary cradle. This is only temporary as there's a clear acrylic one for the finished model, and I don't want to use that until I really need to. Onwards with the prototype! Again, these are photos that will eventually be in the instruction manual, and not regular bench build images.

 

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The regular kit will have 3mm MDF for the main hull components. I quite like this material. It's easy to sand and takes the nails and glue real well. There will be a Master Shipwright version where the MDF will be replaced with birch ply, but that will be very limited edition! There is actually a little birch ply in the standard kit, replacing the MDF stern frames. 

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As you'd expect, everything just drops together, and those that are building the Speedy I'm sure would testify to. The bulkheads, minus the bevelled ones, are now glued in place. There are also two parts which support the lower deck ends. These are also now glued into place.

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One difference to Speedy is the replacement of the lower MDF deck with an engraved ply deck. This, as before, fits in four sections.

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With the deck in place, glue is brushed un the undersides. That'll give more strength, and some rigidity to the outer portions of the deck edges.

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That's it for the moment. I've been so busy that I've barely noticed I've been in isolation for over a month. It's one way to make the time fly! More soon.

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, Chuck said:

Looks really good and it great start.  Your photos are fantastic. 😃

If I've learned to do anything over the last decade, it's how to take photos 🤣

 

2 hours ago, captain_hook said:

Your build speed is incredible. I will watch the build with interest. It‘s a pity there is almost no brig-kit in 1/48 scale.

Thanks. I don't work in sequence. For example, I'm building the cannon now, and some deck fittings. I started those when I left the hull to one side to dry, so I just continued whilst I had dozens of parts cut on my bench. The black resin cannon are superb....don't need any real work to use them. I'll be spraying the carriages a little later.

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Great to see this build. I do understand that the kit itself will have some design changes in materials etc compared to Speedy. However, what are the differences between the actual two sisterships? 

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45 minutes ago, Vane said:

Great to see this build. I do understand that the kit itself will have some design changes in materials etc compared to Speedy. However, what are the differences between the actual two sisterships? 

@chris watton is best answering that.

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5 hours ago, Vane said:

Great to see this build. I do understand that the kit itself will have some design changes in materials etc compared to Speedy. However, what are the differences between the actual two sisterships? 

Not a lot. As far as I can tell, they were virtually identical, being built in the same yard at more or less the same time. I have made a few minor changes to a lot of the parts, (gratings and ladders are standard laser cut parts for Flirt, and new anchor designs, so not a single white metal casting in this kit)  and the masts and rig will be of early 1780's vintage, rather than early 1800's. There are enough changes to warrant a completely new manual and plan set - but it will be the Master Shipwright version that has the most changes, especially materials.

 

Speedy was already a very sound design, this just expands on that a little more, and I can now included stuff as standard that I simply couldn't before. A few PE parts have migrated from their brass etched sheets onto the laser cut sheets, including all masts cleats.

 

But most of all, and what I initially forgot to add, is that I wanted to do the earlier version with a white hull below the waterline, I think this will really show the fine hull lines.

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Ah ok that explains it. So if basically the name tag is the difference, why not just release this kit a 3rd version Speedy and present it as "Speedy/Flirt" kit and let the builder have both options?

Similar to the HMS Vanguard. This is very common strategy when it comes to plastic models where there often are slight variations included in the kit.  

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12 minutes ago, Vane said:

Ah ok that explains it. So if basically the name tag is the difference, why not just release this kit a 3rd version Speedy and present it as "Speedy/Flirt" kit and let the builder have both options?

Similar to the HMS Vanguard. This is very common strategy when it comes to plastic models where there often are slight variations included in the kit.  

 

That's not strictly true. I've spent years in the the plastic hobby doing promo, engineering solutions, test builds, mag work, and if a company has the opportunity to release a Fw 190A-5, A-6, A-8, then they will do, despite the variations being minor. Look at all the Bf 109 kits out there. Tamiya sell a 1:32 Spitfire Mk.IX, which is barely different to their Mk.VIII (retractable tail wheel etc.)

This is a common approach to kit releases, and there is enough different in this release to merit so....certainly more so than many of those plastic models I helped build and promo.

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27 minutes ago, James H said:

and there is enough different in this release to merit

I would have thought the different rig would be a good enough reason. Perhaps when it is possible you could post pictures of the two for comparison, I expect some people will ooohh and aaaahh at different features.

 

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Another update. Again, these are selected images from the eventual instruction manual. This is a sort of abridged version and represent only a few of the pictures that will be published in that book, so I've picked key ones for MSW. 

 

Chris suggests that the first two (bow) and last three (stern) bulkheads are bevelled somewhat before installation, including the other bow cross-bulkhead pieces. This is a pretty sound plan as it saves a whole load of work when it comes to fairing the hull. I used the same methodology in my instructions. I used my Dremel for this, set at a comfortable 9000rpm. Once all the bow bulkheads and cross-slotted pieces were bevelled, I glued these into place. I'm sure this looks familiar to builders of Speedy! Also notice the doorway on bulkhead 10. This has a pear wood door fitted to it with a brass nail as a handle. I also fit the deck support pieces across each bulkhead.

 

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After gluing in the stern bulkheads into place, bulkhead #16 is bevelled along the top to match the sheer, and then the two long deck support beams are slotted and glued into position. This creates a really strong frame that stops the bulkheads bending, as well as being another great support for the deck that'll sit on top.

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One difference (of many) in this kit is the replacement of the MDF stern frames for more resilient birch ply parts. These are now glued into position. Many parts in this kit are replaced with alternative material ones, such as the lower mast tops which will now be pear, as well as the stern face itself. The stern counter remains in ply. The deck is now glued into position. This needs bending somewhat and then allowed to click into position. It only takes a minute or so to install the deck and it sits perfectly on all the beams, no exceptions...

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To protect the stern frames, the stern counter and stern panels are now glued into position. The keel is temporarily fitted with the supplied MDF clamps, so the counter can be correctly positioned. 

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The hull is now faired. This only took me less than an hour, with the stern keel area being thinned out to about 1/3 it's original width to accommodate the planking which will then bring it up to the original thickness. I can sand that thinner too later, to accommodate the second layer of pear.

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The inner stem post is now glued into position and left to dry before I fit the ply gun port strips.

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That's it until I get more work done. I have built the cannon and capstan, but I'll not post those yet, for the sake of getting things in order ;)

 

More when I've done it!

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I juuuuuussssttt wondered if the stern frames for Speedy and Flirt are the same and does Chris have any waste  test example sheets lying around before I start repairing the mess I made of the Speeedy MDF ones !!😁

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16 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

I juuuuuussssttt wondered if the stern frames for Speedy and Flirt are the same and does Chris have any waste  test example sheets lying around before I start repairing the mess I made of the Speeedy MDF ones !!😁

Wasnt these pieces updated to Birch?

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i must have missed that update - I am MDF !! Its only a small fix anyway and it will be invisible - it was just that I was sooooooo proud of ingenious fixing the first one and then i went and broke the otherswhile packing !!

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I've still been putting my exile from my day job to good use and pushing forward on this build. 

 

Next up was adding the 0.8mm ply bulwarks. As with anything like this that has to try to conform to various compound curves, it can be a little testy, but a 30 min soak in hot water certainly helps to ease it into position. A series of pinning and clamping persuaded it too, once glue had been applied. the upper bulwark MDF ears were only lightly glued to the ply as these will be removed in a later stage before fitting the laser engraved deck.

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First planking is done with lime planks, 5mm wide and 1.5mm thick. There's more than enough bulkheads to get a good even finish, providing you faired them properly too. It's all Prep Prep Prep. These planks were glued with PVA and also tapered as necessary. 

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Once planked, a thorough sanding was given, making sure no steps, unevenness or other anomalies would show on the shapes of the finished hull. 

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The 4mm x 1mm pear strips are now cut into short lengths for the stern and stern counter etc. The rudder post is temporarily clamped in position so that I can plank up to it on either side without any guesswork. The edges of this are then sanded flush with the hull sides.

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The pear 'master plank' is now fitted to each side. This isn't guesswork as there are laser cut marks on the bulwark that help you position this in the same place as the planking run for the wale. CA gel is used to glue into position as it gives some seconds to align things.

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A quick photo with a few deck things sat in position!

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The hull is now planked in pear from the master plank down to the keel. 

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More as soon as I get time to edit photos!

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The lower bow and stern with the second planking are interesting, is this a common design or because it will be painted white and not seen? Will the historical maritime police be out to get you?

 

You work at the speed of light...I’d be 2 months in by this point. 😊

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5 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Smooth run of the second planking 

I should probably create a separate topic, but I feel like haven't seen this done before. If it leads to a better finish I wonder why it isn't more commonly used?

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38 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

The lower bow and stern with the second planking are interesting, is this a common design or because it will be painted white and not seen? Will the historical maritime police be out to get you?

 

You work at the speed of light...I’d be 2 months in by this point. 😊

 

Hi Glenn, what do you refer to? This is exactly the same as Speedy, so far.

 

26 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

Sorry to quote a picture, but is there a reason that you didn't plank the deadwood area?

There sure is. 

 

As the stern keel post is only 3mm thick, I prepared the MDF by tapering it to just over 1mm in thickness (about 1.5mm), down from the original 3mm., through the deadwood area.

 

The first planking layer is 1.5mm thick on each side, so I didn't want to add another 3mm onto the MDF thickness at that point as the pear planking will make up the the correct thickness. If I'd planked that area, I would've just had to sand it away and still thin out the deadwood area.

Screenshot 2020-05-07 at 16.37.29.png

 

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12 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

I should probably create a separate topic, but I feel like haven't seen this done before. If it leads to a better finish I wonder why it isn't more commonly used?

 

Maybe it's just the way I work, but it seemed easier NOT to have to plank that area and then sand most of it away, plus the underlying MDF too.

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6 minutes ago, James H said:

 

Maybe it's just the way I work, but it seemed easier NOT to have to plank that area and then sand most of it away, plus the underlying MDF too.

I think this makes a lot of sense, I'll have to try it next time. You had me looking through the other Vanguard build logs to make certain I didn't accidentally do it wrong or ignore the directions 🙂.

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