angle of attack of my blade

[agamemnon9]

hello ,, i need help ,,, lately i bought my byrnes saw table, i installed a 3 inch malco 220 t 0.23 kerf slitting blade, i adjusted my blade in height to 1 / 8 above my piece, my problem is that when I cut a piece of wood 1mm thick, my piece in contact with the blade tends to go up even if I go slowly, would this be the angle d 'attack which would be less pronounced because the blade is not high enough ,,,, should I change the blade with fewer teeth ... I really need your advice ... thank you very much

[mtaylor]

Can you show a picture of the blade and the wood?  The only time I ever see the wood rise up is at the back of the blade and even then, that's rare.

[Jaager]

When you write 1mm, is that the thickness of the stock, or the width of the cut?

Check the info here for a tutorial for the Byrnes saw and the recommended  blade / teeth for a given thickness of stock.

 

Perhaps a piece of wood on top and something like a GRR-Ripper?  This may help keep fingers out of harms way.

[agamemnon9]

Firstly tank you for answering me, it's my first visit to this site   🙂I'm not good enough  on the net to take pictures  at the moment but the wood I use almost exclusively  is white pine no 1 and as far as the blade is concerned  is a Malco slitting blade  220 teeth   0.23 kerf   3 inches...I wrote to Jim Byrnes and he gave me the answer today , he said he used a 3 inch blade with a thickness  of 0.30  and 90 teeth  for a thickness of wood of 1/4  inch or less, if I understood corectly what he wanted to explain to me..he told me that a blade with too many teeth tends to heat up because wood that does not drain enough between the teeth...I also observed that the lower height of the blade change  the angle of attack.....the teeth don't point downward enough..but maybe I was wrong,,,so I ordered other blades with fewer teeth,,,Oh I almost forget,,I feed very slowly  and nothing change...so I want to ask you a question....what do you use as a blade to cut very fine piece,that would  help me a lot,,,,,,TANKS AGAIN.

[agamemnon9]

1mm It's the thickness of the wood and for the width sometimes I go  to 0.7 milimeters maximum...I read the topic about how to choose the right blade for very fine cut (220 teeth 0.23 kerf  3 inches blade) for wood of 1mm  but it don't work.....Tanks

[mtaylor]

Ah.... attached is a copy of recommendations for a Byrnes saw.  I find those recommendations (there's a section of what blades to use for different thicknesses).   

Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf

[No Idea]

I too have had this problem once or twice on my Byrnes saw.  Once like you I was using a blade with many teeth and feeding the wood in too fast.  Another time was because the wood I was feeding in was slightly warped.  So although the blade was above the wood at the start of the cut it was level further along.  And this problem becomes amplified because the blades have no clearance on the kerf so they bind and throw the work piece upwards.  Over time and with much use I've discovered these quirks and tend not to get them anymore simply though experience 

[Bob Cleek]

A plain old number two pencil with an eraser on the end makes a great "push stick" for micro-saws. Use the eraser end to hold thin strips down flat on the table. Use two, one in each hand, so you can feed through, one leap-frogging over the other, to keep control of the workpiece as it moves past the blade.

[mtaylor]

26 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

A plain old number two pencil with an eraser on the end makes a great "push stick" for micro-saws. Use the eraser end to hold thin strips down flat on the table. Use two, one in each hand, so you can feed through, one leap-frogging over the other, to keep control of the workpiece as it moves past the blade.

 

That would work but I don't like the idea of metal things anywhere near the saw so  I use cheap chopsticks.  

[Bob Cleek]

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

 

That would work but I don't like the idea of metal things anywhere near the saw so  I use cheap chopsticks.  

Good point! I always bring the cheap chopsticks from the Asian restaurants home with me for use in my shop. I've got tons of them. I miss the higher quality old fashioned big ones they used to use, though. The new ones that are just routed out of a single piece and you break apart for use aren't as high a quality of bamboo as the older and longer ones. I do like the rubber on the erasers. Perhaps I'll try to find some of the old larger pencil erasers that slip over the end of the pencils. I'll have to be careful to avoid "shrapnel," though! (I never, ever, stand in line with any sort of spinning saw blade.)

 

Just checked. They're on sale for $1.68 a gross, just slightly more than a penny a piece! 

 

https://www.officesupply.com/school-supplies/student-teacher-supplies/basic-school-supplies/pencil-erasers/integra-pencil-erasers/p46499.html?ref=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp46499&sc_intid=46499&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI47qirqmW6QIVRT2tBh0UjQj6EAQYASABEgIDlPD_BwE

 

Edited May 2, 2020 by Bob Cleek

[Jaager]

Bob.

How many bamboo sticks does it take to get a tight fit in the erasers socket?

Duco will bind the bundle after a few minutes.

[Altduck]

2 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Good point! I always bring the cheap chopsticks from the Asian restaurants home with me for use in my shop. I've got tons of them. I miss the higher quality old fashioned big ones they used to use, though. The new ones that are just routed out of a single piece and you break apart for use aren't as high a quality of bamboo as the older and longer ones. I do like the rubber on the erasers. Perhaps I'll try to find some of the old larger pencil erasers that slip over the end of the pencils. I'll have to be careful to avoid "shrapnel," though! (I never, ever, stand in line with any sort of spinning saw blade.)

 

Just checked. They're on sale for $1.68 a gross, just slightly more than a penny a piece! 

 

https://www.officesupply.com/school-supplies/student-teacher-supplies/basic-school-supplies/pencil-erasers/integra-pencil-erasers/p46499.html?ref=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp46499&sc_intid=46499&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI47qirqmW6QIVRT2tBh0UjQj6EAQYASABEgIDlPD_BwE

 

 

How about putting those erasers on a length of dowel and get rid of the metal eraser band?

[mtaylor]

1 hour ago, Altduck said:

 

How about putting those erasers on a length of dowel and get rid of the metal eraser band?

 

I'm beginning to think Bob is the adventurous one among us.   But if that's what he's been using and hasn't had an issue... good for him.  I hope it always goes well.

[Bob Cleek]

6 hours ago, Altduck said:

 

How about putting those erasers on a length of dowel and get rid of the metal eraser band?

Precisely. That's what I'll be doing in the future. I'll pick some up at the stationery store as soon as our "lockdown" ends. With a nod to Mark, I may even stick a couple on the ends of a pair of chopsticks.  

 

I've never connected the metal band on a pencil with the blade, but I'd expect the metal being rather thin, the blade would simply cut through it. 

[bruce d]

I will get erasers immediately, looks to be the perfect tool for the job.

A kitchen chopping board, the food-grade plastic type, is ideal for slicing up into push sticks and featherboards for small work. I stole an expired one from the Admiral's stash and was so impressed I bought a new one (£1) on the next trip to Ikea.

[No Idea]

Thanks for the tips all - I've ordered some erasers I think that its a great idea!

[Bob Cleek]

18 hours ago, Jaager said:

Bob.

How many bamboo sticks does it take to get a tight fit in the erasers socket?

Duco will bind the bundle after a few minutes.

I'll use the larger full-size bamboo chopsticks or a dowel of suitable diameter. No need to bundle the skinny bamboo skewers.

Edited May 3, 2020 by Bob Cleek

[Bob Cleek]

9 hours ago, bruce d said:

A kitchen chopping board, the food-grade plastic type, is ideal for slicing up into push sticks and featherboards for small work. I stole an expired one from the Admiral's stash and was so impressed I bought a new one (£1) on the next trip to Ikea.

Yes, indeed. I never pass up the opportunity to grab one when I can. I have pieces of plastic chopping board screwed into my woodworking bench vise's jaws to cushion the workpieces. The Record woodworking bench vises, as most all, are sold without jaw pads and shop-built sacrificial wood jaws are screwed to the metal jaw faces. I've found pieces of cutting board to be just the ticket for this. I don't bother with wooden jaw pads anymore.