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Northeaster Dory by ahb26 - Chesapeake Light Craft - 1:8 scale - small - Finished


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More fun with the soldering iron.

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The two blocks were formed from the same strip metal I used for the rudder fittings.  I had some difficulty drilling the holes for the axle in the right spot in both the metal and the sheave.  Not thrilled with these, I may try again.

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I formed the oarlocks from .04" brass wire (another Bowdoin leftover, also used in the blocks as axles) and soldered the joints.

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The oars are supplied in the kit - the one on top has been sanded, the other is a work in progress.

 

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Putting a few things together.  The instructions call for simple cleats for the halyard and downhaul bent up from copper wire.  I made some from scrap wood instead.  I also made up oarlock risers, based on optional items offered by CLC.

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Two cleats mounted to the rails in the primary rowing position, with oars -

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The square section of the oar between the grip and the oarlock is a feature of oars developed by CLC.  It serves as a counterweight to give the oar better balance.  I will detail the oars with a collar.  The oarlocks seem a bit large for the oar; I based their size on the oarlocks sold by CLC for their real boats.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Well, a lot has happened since my last visit, and the Northeaster Dory seems to have ended up in the wrong era.  I'll see about sorting that out.

 

I was to the point where I had to confront the sail.  Being somewhat intimidated, I found ways to procrastinate.  I worked on a fiendishly difficult 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle -

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then decided I needed to read Shakespeare's eight history plays covering Richard II through Richard III -

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I'm half way through that.  We have other things going on as well, but finally I selected some fabric from my in-house sailmaker's stash and we laid out the sail.

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At this point I should reiterate how useful CLC's Dory Lug Rig Installation Guide has been.  It shows the details of lashing the sail to the boom and gaff and, critically, the correct attachment points for the halyard and downhaul.  The plans supplied with the lug rig option are not of much use in this respect.

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I used an ice pick to make the grommet holes, with a little CA to give them body (thanks to a helpful entry in the Rigging forum) and a little brass paint on a toothpick to color them.  Worked pretty well.  With the lines and blocks attached, I was finally able to see the boat with the sail flying.

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At this point, the finish line was in sight - I just had a few little details and some touch-up to do.  Naturally, this is when a structural problem chose to show itself -

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Ouch!  Fortunately, the repair - a carefully applied bead of CA - was straightforward and didn't make a mess.

 

So the boat is finished.  Here it is set up for rowing, with the sailing components laid out in front:

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I took some completion photos but I'm not pleased with the lighting and want to see if I can do better, so I won't mark the build FINISHED just yet.

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Some photos of the completed Northeaster Dory.  It was a fun project, especially since the construction is identical to that of the full-size kit.  I lost track of the time spent on it once I finished painting and moved on to details - about 26 hours.  I think you could spend a little more than the advertised 10+ hours and make a nice decorative piece - or detail to your heart's content and spend much more time.  I'm glad I spent the extra time on the details I added.

 

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Thanks so much for the kind words!  I spent a lot of time looking through photos of full-size boats built by CLC customers.  Many builders put a lot of effort into appearance details such as inlays, exotic woods, and special paint. Some of these boats are works of art that I couldn't hope to match, but the basic shape is pleasing enough.

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