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HMS Victory by Emmet - Corel - 1:98 - as she appeared after Trafalgar in 1805 - Second wooden ship build


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good here thanks Emmet- hope you and yours are getting this nice weather we are seeing in Cumbria at the moment ( supposed to turn crap by wednesday though) it's tricky to describe how the planking behaves- i can only recommend looking at stern shots of planked builds- the planks on the tuck at the counter do taper slightly until they meet the sternpost then fan out- they turn for the tuck just below the mainwale.

 

Keith

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Emmet, have a look at the Planking tutorials.  There's also a "planking for beginners" here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php  which might help.   Also, give some thought on how you're going to remove those rather large nails in the planking you've already laided down.  I guessing another layer of wood is put onto of this one?  If so, the first layer doesn't have to be perfect, just smoothed and faired.

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Oh yes I read all of those over and over. I have them saved in a folder. The nails are 5 mm brass and they come out easily with your recommended wire pincers.

My problem now is where the planks meet the stern.  I have to figure out how to install the counters-again the drawings are not that readable.  Your ship photo of Terror helps some as well as other logs I have viewed.  But there are none that show how the counters are installed and other makers do the stern differently.  While there will be a 2nd layer of planks I am still trying to do these as well as possible from a learning point of view. 

For the 2nd layer I have to try and get the archer's bow from bow to stern.  I think my planks are too straight or level for this layer.

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I am moving ahead with the counters. If I do them wrong I will do them again. I probably have to take out pla king around the stern filler.  One can only think and research so long.

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Having done some planks and trying to understand how the counters fit (still not sure if they should be tapered down and in to the ship) I did some checking on the position of the planks on both sides of the ship.  I found that they were not the same.  I probably could have worked around it but I decided to just fix the starboard side to match the port side. I also have begun to do measurements of the distances to - call it the rabbet line- along the entire hull.  I should have done that sooner as that is how I discovered the discrepancy between port and starboard planks.

1166338660_Repositionstarboardplanks.jpg.85537051f0c6f2180162fffa604932c1.jpg

1155148297_glluedback.jpg.26b493df761258bf684bde405768cb71.jpg

 

 

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Hi Matt,

Sometimes you just say "the hell with it" and start.  It is rather silly because I had gone to the trouble of plumbing the ship and making sure the deck beams were done properly and did not bother to make sure the distance to the first plank from the lower deck was the same.  There is a price you pay for not thinking enough.

Yes I do go from one side to the other. I install a wet plank on one side and dry it with the plank bender. Then I go to the other side, remove the plank and dry it more. I am then ready to glue it. 

As I say sometimes you just feel like you must move ahead. It is a learning thing.  People who do not make mistakes are not doing anything.

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Hey Emmet - I dropped by to see how your Vic is coming along and see you have made a lot of progress in a relatively short time and are working through the challenge of planking.  Looks like you’ve got a lot good advice coming your way.  Also know that the second set of planking will hide mistakes made during your first layer as well as give you a solid, uniform surface to cover.  😎

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Hey Rob I see you are almost ready to do your 2nd planks.  When I did La Nina I used auto body Bondi to smooth the 1st layer-thought it worked well. 

I just used the Minwax filler you suggested to make sure I have a backing for the gunports which I decided to leave hidden by continuous planks.  I had put backing boards but wanted to be sure. In fact you can see above I missed one. I drilled into the filler.  The sreawings I have are simply not to scale so I have just tried to use the basic pattern of the ports and wing it.

Kind of mysterious kicking Y.T. off the site.  It seems he was doing a lot of his own thing-must have gotten a supplier upset.

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welcome back Emmet- general rule is garboard plank should look straight from bow to midships when viewed from side- that bit for cutting gunports will save you a lot of time.

 

Keith

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Thanks Emmet - I try to keep my head down where I can.  I don’t know what happened with Y.T., but hopefully he is doing well.  Keep plugging my friend but don’t be in a hurry; take your time.  You’ve got a lot of resources here to call from.  Don’t hesitate to check them all out.  

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The following plans are for the remaining planks. I waited until I got 
below the stern gallery counters. I think I should have started about 2 planks sooner.  The idea is to taper the planks so that we have a final plank that will 
make up for small discrepancies.  It is also understood that the plan must change depending on the discrepancies in the planned numbers.
I am also going to change the garboard planks as well as deviate from the Corel plan for the planking of the stern/rudder area. I prefer the way other 
Victories look in the rudder area on logs that are not Corel.

I neglected to label the numbers underlined.  They represent the mm of taper at the frames which are numbered 1 thru 12. 14 is the stern/rudder area 

where I know there is room but I am changing that section so I did not supply numbers. 

539681502_Portside061420.thumb.JPG.70e2699a18243bc89718af9e375d7a37.JPG

1948785371_Starboardplankplan061420.thumb.JPG.93081201912700fc320961af58e383e7.JPG

Stay tuned and thanks Rob for your input.

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Hi Keith

Thanks for your comment about the straight look for the garboard.  Should they go without a taper all the way to the bow filler.  I already took the tapered part out and left the straight part.

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it will be tapered from the top to make it look straight when viewed sideways on- there is an interesting half hull project in kit logs showing planking techniques which you might find interesting- can't remember name on build log but posts were being added recently.

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Thanks-happy I found you in the shipyard.

I will check the kit logs. It does seem to need some tapering as you approach the bow filler. By sideways do you mean looking from the bttom or viewing the ship on a cradle i.e. viewing the edge of the planks.

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Sorry to belabor the subject but it seems the garboard strake has to at least run to the first frame and needs to be tapered as it approaches the bow filler. To be straight it would have to end at the third frame with a long taper. That would mean the second plank would then have to be bent along that taper and go to the first frame.

 The alternative would be to run both planks past the curve in the bow and cut them off to the shape of the bow. In that case there would be no taper.

 I totally realize this is difficult to discuss this way. And I appreciate your patience with an old new ship builder.

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it will go as far as the start of the bow or forefoot-the build log i mentioned will explain- but if your method is going to work go for it😉😁. everyone has their own viewpoint on this.

 

 

Keith

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18 hours ago, clearway said:

there is an interesting half hull project in kit logs showing planking techniques which you might find interesting

 

4 minutes ago, Emmet said:

Have not found that half hull thing yet.  I am revising the garboard by the bow.

I believe clearway is referencing this log (I am linking to the post about the garboard plank):

 

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I did find it. Thanks a lot for the URL.  I a in the process of doing the garboard that way.  It confirms one of the three ways I was think about.  I want to get this right for the 2nd planking and the future.  I do realize this gets filled over and copper on top of that.  I want to get it as right as I can.

Thanks again.

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that is the best way Emmet- i spent a lot of time getting the planking on my victory as good as possible because even though i was painting/ coppering i still wanted a sound foundation for everything to rest on- filler and coppering shouldn't be used to hide serfious mishaps😉

 

Keith

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