HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by glbarlow - 1:48 - FINISHED

[glbarlow]

Thanks Guys!

 

[glbarlow]

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.

 

You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.

 

I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.

 

I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 

 

I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.

 

So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

[MEDDO]

Everything looks great! The symmetry of the chase ports looks wonderful. I do like all of your sanding options. The files with the flat side are really nice.

 

There is one question I have though. When looking at the first picture it looks like the third gun port from aft appears to be slanted forward somehow. The one between bulkhead six and seven as measured from aft. I’m not sure if it’s a weird illusion from the camera which sometimes happens but it appears as the forward edge is lower than the aft edge. I know some of the spacer blocks are crooked because they dont matter and it might be they are  just throwing off the eye.

 

edit: I also am wondering about the square tuck = triangle shape thing

Edited May 13, 2020 by MEDDO

[glbarlow]

5 hours ago, MEDDO said:

There is one question

Good observation. All the sides of the gun ports run perpendicular to the water. Per the plans gun port sills on 4-6 do slant upward following the run of the deck so you’re right about the slant but it’s correct per the design. Chuck included reference lines on the bulkhead. I just had to match the top of the sills to each mark. 4 does seem to stand out more in the photo, but it’s the same as 5 & 6. 
 

I think the spacer bars, which are more or less straight, accent the slant and not in a good way. They’re ugly but I hope helpful later in the build. If you look at the previous post of the port side the slant is there but looks more ‘elegant’ without the spacer bars. 
 

Thanks for the comment. Everything about this build is new to me, I’ll take all the help I can get. 

Edited May 13, 2020 by glbarlow

[DelF]

Very neat work. I'm glad you're getting on well with the Swiss files - you'll be on commission from Vallorbe soon!

 

Derek

 

P.S.   Looking at the last picture, I see you're getting as untidy as me 😁

 

 

[glbarlow]

29 minutes ago, DelF said:

getting as untidy as me

Sometimes I just have to stop and reorganize, I have stuff everywhere. 
 

I do like those files, thanks again for the recommendation. 

[glbarlow]

Any creative ideas about how to maintain a 1/64th inch gap above, below, and alongside the ports? 

 

I did cut my first run of 3/64" thick planks from 3/16, 1/16 and 5/32 lumber, I'm a bit proud of that having never done that before in volume. Again I will say the Yellow Cedar flew through the saw, and I'm typing with ten fingers. 

[Chuck]

No silver bullet.  Just take your time and go slow.

[garthog]

Looking very good - thanks for all of the details regarding how you do each task - I also liked the photo of all of the sanders/tools/glue (where did you get your Admiralty White PVA?) which immediately sent me to my sanding tools to compare ... you win!

 

dana

[MEDDO]

21 hours ago, glbarlow said:

and I'm typing with ten fingers. 

most important thing!  glad the plank production went well.  Wondering what type of saw you used and what kind of blade to do that?

[glbarlow]

14 hours ago, MEDDO said:

type of saw you used and what kind of blade

I have the Byrnes Saw with a Thurston I-292 .030 kerf slitter blade. I’m a big fan of the Byrnes saw. 

Edited May 15, 2020 by glbarlow

[glbarlow]

7 hours ago, garthog said:

where did you get your Admiralty White PVA

Thanks for the comment. I like doing the writing, sometimes I think I get carried away. 
 

I got it and all my Admiralty Paints from Cornwall Boats in the U.K. I used to received orders in 7-10 days. However I have an order I’ve been waiting 9 weeks, all they say is be patient. I haven’t found a US source for Admiralty paints. 

[garthog]

Sounds like Cornwall has a virus problem.  FYI, if you haven’t tried Jim Byrnes’ sander, you’ll find it’s as impressive as the table saw.  I drove to his location to pick up my saw in 2006 or so - he’s a very interesting person, and works alone in his shop.  He also re-works old classic cars!

 

dana

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, garthog said:

Jim Byrnes’ sander

I have that as well, my second favorite tool. I've talked to both Jim and his wife a couple of times on the phone. The very definition of small business owners with great customer service and great products. My latest addition is the sliding table for the saw. I wasn't sure I needed it, now I don't know how I got along without it.  I used it to cut 24 perfect lap joints for the three cargo hatches on my Nelson project, great way to make consistent, repeatable cuts on very small wood pieces.

 

Cornwall is placing blame on the US Postal Service since they sent it 'Air Mail.' The funny thing is I did receive a second order I'd placed a week after the one I don't have yet....I think it fell off the conveyor belt somewhere along the line.

Edited May 15, 2020 by glbarlow

[mtaylor]

3 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Cornwall is placing blame on the US Postal Service since they sent it 'Air Mail.' The funny thing is I did receive a second order I'd placed a week after the one I don't have yet....I think it fell off the conveyor belt somewhere along the line.

Could very well be still traveling.  With the airlines mostly shutdown, the USPS has been having some real issues with parcels.  By perchance did you get a tracking number?  Others have reported that shipments have been routed all over the country and not the most direct route.

[glbarlow]

48 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

tracking number

I asked, they don’t ship with tracking numbers was their answer. As I said I placed a second order a few days after this one. I received it in 2 weeks. Whatever the current situation 9 weeks is a long time. It is not helping that they don’t use tracking numbers. 
 

Why do you ask?

[mtaylor]

6 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Why do you ask?

If there's a tracking number, you can usually use that number on the shipper's website to see exactly where the shipment is on any given day.  Which means you would know where the shipment is.  

 

9 weeks just seems way excessive.

[glbarlow]

9 hours ago, mtaylor said:

If there's a tracking number,

I agree, it’s why the first thing I asked them back over a month ago for the tracking number, onLy to find out there wasn’t one. 
 

I recently ordered the plans for Cheerful from the NMM in the U.K., they also sent it postal airmail, but provided me with a tracking number and I received two weeks later (about three weeks ago).  I’m pretty sure my order is lost but without a tracking number, who knows...

[mtaylor]

I'm sorry to hear that it may be lost.  I just hope it's either sitting in warehouse waiting to me moved to the next stop or is traveling all over the country in truck.

[bartley]

Glenn,

 

I placed an order with Cornwall Model Boats recently and paid the second level of shipping costs.  This gave me a tracking number.  CMB said they shipped it on 7 th May but the royal mail did not pick it up until  13th.  It has been at HWDC ( Heathrow Worldwide Distribution Centre) since 14th May.  So things are certainly moving slowly so maybe there is hope for your parcel still.

 

John

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, bartley said:

maybe there is hope

They mailed it March 17th so...

[glbarlow]

Thanks everyone for following along. 
 

I’m pausing the build for a few days but will be back at it soon.  Please watch for updates.  
 

[bartley]

Glenn,

 

After my parcel  from CMB sat in Heathrow for two weeks it is suddenly in Sydney.  So that's three weeks compared to the usual two.  So unfortunately you are probably right - you parcel has gone astray,  Bad luck. No wonder Chuck is not keen to post abroad at the moment.

 

John

[glbarlow]

I did a little side project, putting together the winch sub-assembly from Chuck’s https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com site. This is one of several I have as part of my Cheerful semi-scratch build. This model with the plans, starter kit, monograph, and these sub-assemblies, make entry into scratch building so much easier an experience.

The winch comes in a little baggy of finely lasered parts, mine is in boxwood. I printed the simple to follow instructions from the website and commenced to sand and file away.

The instructions say to bevel the many panels (5 barrels and obviously 8 to each barrel) so that only a brown edge is showing. Not surprisingly my last one was better than the first. The big key is when the instructions say only a little edge is showing, it means a very little tiny barely visible bit of brown edge. This one still needed more filing.

With everything assembled, it’s time to paint using the Golden Cadium Red I’ve selected for the model. This is in a bottle not a tube, but I still mixed it at about 3 parts paint to one part water. This gives it an almost ‘red water’ consistency. I found three coats were enough to make me happy. I painted a scrap piece and after three it started looking a little too thick.

 

I use Admiralty Paint Ironwood Black for the components that are, well, wood meant to look like iron, (so that’s how they got the name…) on a real winch. This is great paint, it took only one coat, any more and it will look more like paint and less like metal. As a side note, more of this paint is one of the items in my lost order from the UK.

I’m a big fan of 400 grit sandpaper, I use it to soften everything to make it feel “warmer” and “worn.” With 400 grit as opposed to even 320 there is no danger of losing shape or too much material.  I also did a little shaping at the top, not too much, its a winch…

 

Because I’m using very thin paint I did have to remove all the laser char otherwise it would show through. That was a bit challenging with the end pieces. So here I'm clearly not done.

My hemostats come in handy to hold things while I’m painting, easy here since I could use a 1/16th stick to hold them.

The final dry-fit. It’s really not this shiny, just the bright light and my iPhone thinking too much.

 

The final step is glue it all together, snip off the rod running through it and add the red caps to the ends. I’m not going to do that until I’m ready to mount it on the ship - a long long time from now - just in case any adjustments are needed on the fit to the deck. So off it all goes to join the rudder and sternpost on a cabinet shelf I keep free of everything but a soft cloth bottom and future parts of my current model. I’m sure a few cannon will find their way to that shelf before they’re ready to mount. I like little projects like this to break up the build process.

 

So now back to the hull.

[MEDDO]

nice little mini kit.  breaking up the build and doing these little projects in between the "main" progress seems like a good idea

[DelF]

Great job on the winch.   Chuck has a real talent for creating designs that turn two dimensional laser cut sheets into realistic 3D models. I was very impressed with the stern lanterns I got for Caroline.

 

Derek

[garthog]

the winch looks very impressive, and you're right - the red appears pretty red!  BTW, I did receive my order from Jotika that I placed on 14 Feb ... so be patient!!  Also, how do you use the 400 sandpaper?  by hand, or do you put it on your hand sanders?

 

garthog

 

[glbarlow]

Thank you. 
 

I have 400 grit wrapped on a small block of MDF cut by the Byrnes saw with three of the 4 edges attached with double sided tape for flat surfaces and edges. For softening edges I jus just a small piece free handing. 
 

It is really red but I like it for this model. No admiralty red ochre paint this time. 

[Jim T]

Glenn, I've just completed reading through your thread and will be following along. Lots of great info here from an experienced kit builder turned scratch builder. 

 

Jim

[glbarlow]

It’s been a while. So, here’s what happened:

 

I reached the point where I had started on the stern when disaster struck, every modeler’s worst fear. My hull was knocked to the floor and didn’t just break, it shattered. I think it actually bounced but everything is foggy now. The hull broke in half, multiple BH extensions broke off, one of the Z stern frames and installed ports broke off and the stem shredded. It was hopeless. I just sat there on the floor holding my wreck for a long while.

 

So - with nothing else left to do I ordered a new frame set and started all over. Prepared the new keel and stem, glued new frames, installed new ports, and faired a second hull. You may notice the yellow tape, like Modelers loved Tamiya tape photographers love gaffer tape. It sticks to everything but leaves no residue and is thick enough to provide some protection, I'm not quite ready to unwrap it yet. Chuck asked if it was easier the second time around, maybe physically easier, mentally it was tough going through the same steps. Today I got past the point where I last worked on the first hull. I feel like now I can share, set aside my pain, and move on. I don’t think I have starting a third one in me so here’s hoping.