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I'm just getting ready to start on a kit-build of a Virginia pilot boat, a sloop.  I noticed that the keel piece is a little warped.  It's a thin plywood precut piece.  I tried steaming it for about 15 minutes, then clamping it flat against a 2x4.  That didn't work.  I'm afraid of soaking it in hot water - might that make the plywood separate?  I would appreciate any suggestions from you pros out there. Thanks.

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Since AL is out business, I would suggest getting a piece of plywood the same thickness and cutting a new one.  The other alternative is mount the bulkheads to the keel.   Let the glue thoroughly dry, then insert some spacer wood between the bulkheads such that they push the bend out.  Be sure to put spacers in both sides to keep the keel from warping the other way.   

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Al is out of business ?   No wonder I can’t find parts for my ship   When did this happen?   Any ideas how to get the sting for the constellation  I’m running out and am finding it impossible to find some

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They moved to Vietnam and within a year or two were gone.  Sting?   Not sure what you're looking for.   BTW, nice to see you back.

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Ah.. rigging.<facepalm>   I think I have some old AL line, let me know what you need and I'll see what I have.  And if you want great line, Chuck sells the best I've ever seen.

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Hi 

where exactly you have the warped ? 

there is a solution for everything ! but need to know before is it in the middle ? bow ? stern? 

take a picture ..

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It’s the beige 0.15 mm and brown 0.25mm  I’m sure on my next build  I may get chucks  nothing like running out and having to use something different to finish it off with

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You must make a clamps up and down for all over the keel , glue the bulkheads then put the clamps on make it straight ..

then use the method of mtaylor !

dont push any bulkhead just make the supports to be exact size between the bulkheads then glue the supports from out side ...

make sure not to press the bulkheads with the supports ! 

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13 hours ago, Jparsley said:

It’s the beige 0.15 mm and brown 0.25mm  I’m sure on my next build  I may get chucks  nothing like running out and having to use something different to finish it off with

My apologies.  I thought I had a good amount on hand and nada in those sizes and colors.   Make a new post asking if anyone has those sizes.  Heaven knows there's enough AL kits still floating around.

 

Edit.  I did a quick Google.  Use "artesania latina" and "parts" or "rigging".  There's still places selling it.

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Thanks to all who responded.  To mtaylor, cutting a new keel seems like a good idea if I can find plywood that thin - see pictures.  I like the idea as well of using spacers attached to the keel between bulkheads.  I get what michael101 is saying = the spacers should not push on the bulkheads but just straighten the keel.  To michael101, the warp is in the middle - see pictures.

 

I will start a build log.

IMG_0380.jpg

IMG_0381.jpg

IMG_0382.jpg

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26 minutes ago, Jim in KC said:

Thanks to all who responded.  To mtaylor, cutting a new keel seems like a good idea if I can find plywood that thin - see pictures. 

Your local Menards store will probably have that plywood.

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If you can't get out to a store, there's these folks online:  http://www.nationalbalsa.com/  Scroll down to plywood on the left.

 

You might try (and say this relunctantly) dipping into some water and then using a curling iron (keep it moving and work both sides) to see if you can bend it back.   Sometimes it works, sometimes things just go down in a handbasket.

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You might also check at a Michaels craft store - the ones near me have a good selection of thin plywood (if they are open during this virus thing).

 

Mark

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Hi Jim,

 

FWIW,I have had warped 1/4" ply. What I did was draw a straight line on the build board,draw lines 1/2 the ply thickness either side of this line. Glued small wood blocks on these lines and slotted the ply in there then screwed angle brackets to the board at each end of the false keel to keep it vertical. Glued and clamped blocks between the bulkhead slots,next day a perfectly straight keel. No need to faff about wetting ,steaming etc which may not work anyway.

 

Dave :dancetl6:

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Jim, similar to what Dave is talking about. Once the bulkheads are in place and the wales glued on you are good to go. The angle brackets had been removed when this pic was taken  7034FABE-923D-44D8-B72F-1FF92DF90D5A.thumb.jpeg.b9d5a4434c32c9f4e88a6a5672022536.jpeg

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I did indeed cut a new keel.  Next question, what's the best way to attach a flat deck to frames that are curved on top?  I've read other build logs for the same model and others have had this question.  I'm thinking of soaking the deck, then pinning it, then gluing it.  Any advice would be appreciated.

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How thick is the false deck? I would think if it’s 1/16” or less it will conform to the bulkhead tops just by pinning or weighting and glue....

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Thanks for your input, ASAT.  The reason I'm concerned is a previous builds of the same model reported difficulty getting the false deck to bend to the rather severe curvature of the upper frames.  See for example: Swift by PopJack - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Virginia Pilot Boat 1805 Older version
By PopJack, April 15, 2013 in Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS

 

One previous build reported the deck split. 

 

I have had this model probably 10 -15 years and haven't had time to work on it until now (I recently retired).  So the deck is dry and not very flexible though it is only 1/16" thick.  What do you think about soaking it?

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Soaking it will soften it for sure but it may warp as it drys and create a larger issue, have you tried flexing it to see if it is pliable enough? I would think you only need about an 1/8” or so flex across the beam . 

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Actually I was worried about that - it warping in an unplanned way and ending up looking like it had been soaked.  I'll try flexing it.  I'm also thinking about cutting out a new false keel with a fresher more flexible 1/16th inch basswood board.  Thanks for your input.  I'll update after I try flexing, and also I have a build log going.

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