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I'm just starting my first build, the Chris Craft Runabout. The instructions say to build on a 12" x 30" wooden table. I have lots of wood, but noticed in the build notes that they stapled the deck to the table in order to erect the frames. That seems rather drastic so I'm thinking of using plastic headed push pins but it will be difficult to push those into plywood. What do other use for a build table?

Thanks

Alan

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50 minutes ago, English Rebel said:

I'm just starting my first build, the Chris Craft Runabout. The instructions say to build on a 12" x 30" wooden table. I have lots of wood, but noticed in the build notes that they stapled the deck to the table in order to erect the frames. That seems rather drastic so I'm thinking of using plastic headed push pins but it will be difficult to push those into plywood. What do other use for a build table?

Thanks

Alan

Are you putting the deck down first? That's a new way of building.

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Alan, would you please post some pictures of this setup and the quotation from the instructions.

I am curious about it and maybe others too.

I thought the deck had a curve to it.

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I've attached the photo of the box and the instructions where it says to lay the deck down on the building board and staple it. I've figured out how to make the building board. I have a piece of plywood 12" x 36" to which I attached two layers of cork flooring. I will use the plastic headed push pins which will easily go into the cork and will do less damage to the parts.

Alan

 

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Alan,

 

I used a piece of MDF for my build board for this boat, and I covered it in a sheet of kitchen baking paper to prevent anything being accidentally glued to the build board. I did use staples as per the instructions and had no problems with this - they removed quite easily. You can see details in my build log. Link in my signature block below.

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Thanks Alan,

Now that total sense to me.

Many Midwest kits are using this system.

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Alan, the only problem I can see with using cork is that it's compressable. You may end up with the decking being curved and not in a good way.

 

As for the kit itself, I'm thinking it's an older kit before laser cutting became common.  The way I found was to cut the "tabs' with a hobby knife or us a scroll saw and just follow the lines.  My first kits were like that before I went to scratch building and the saw/hobby knife worked well.

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I've found sitting down to work on my build to be uncomfortable,bad for circulation and leaving me with neck/back aches from bending over. To overcome this I bought a adjustable height keyboard riser (27"x 12") from Amazon. I find it far more comfortable standing to work and can adjust the model to the height suitable to what part I'm working on. I clamp my building board to the riser. I have also made another board which the deck lays on and allows me to to turn the model over and work on the bottom end.

stand 005.JPG

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19 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Alan, the only problem I can see with using cork is that it's compressable. You may end up with the decking being curved and not in a good way.

 

As for the kit itself, I'm thinking it's an older kit before laser cutting became common.  The way I found was to cut the "tabs' with a hobby knife or us a scroll saw and just follow the lines.  My first kits were like that before I went to scratch building and the saw/hobby knife worked well.

Thanks Mark, I hadn't thought of that. I've got lots of MDF.

Alan

 

I just checked the cork. They are only about ⅛" thick and as they are floor tiles they are very compressed. I have to really press hard to make any impression. I think they will be just fine.

Alan

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Ah..  I thought they might have kitchen counter type of corks.  I hope it works out for you as the deck needs to be secured to it. See Page 3 of your instructions.

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